Ricardo

Well-Known Member
15s0ks0.jpg


:D

EDIT: This worked surprisingly well. It's as if the M was telling me it wanted to go straight to lung rather than constricted mouth draws....a little bit of kinky garden hose.....
 
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Wildeyedzan

Well-Known Member
LOVE IT :)
and he/she has aloe on hand for burns.
All bases covered !!
Getting ready to go hiking !!! Gonna load a quick vapcap stem before I head out :cool:
Over the past few days when driving... I've imagined how easy it must be to use vapcap with induction Heater.
I will acquire one some day :)
First things first..gotta transform this m into a xl spinning setup :lol:
Have a beautiful day everyone !! Time to immerse myself in mother nature :love:
 

Squiby

Well-Known Member
Have a pipes ps and if i pull out at the click i get whispy hits, if i go past the click 40% of sessions i combust by going too far as im trying to emulate the monster hits a lighter give me. When i do get it right i get black avb at the top and it gets lighter as u get deeper into the load very rarely is it even. I cant seem to be as satisfied with the experience compared to a lighter compared to most people i read about on here.
When I use my Pipes IH, I heat past the click to the count of 'one, one thousand, two one thousand, three, one thousand, four', to produce perfect flavorful vapor. You might have to play around with it a bit to get into the zone. The moisture in your bud will be a factor for sure, as does your loading method. I pop a small nug into the chamber. I never pack it full. If you over pack, the top tends to char leaving the bud underneath undercooked. Try a less packed bowl and don't fill it all the way to the top.


I'm trying to use the stove lol But I can't vape, somehow! When it clicks, I try to vape but nothing happens and then it immediately clicks again (???)
You must heat the cap along the sides with any heating method. It sounds like you might be heating the top of the cap.

There are two bimetal discs enclosed inside the top of the cap. You can see where the cap is crimped. When the disks reach a certain temperature they buckle causing a clicking noise. Where you apply heat on the sides of the cap determines your bowl temps. If heat is applied close to the top of the cap The disks heat quickly and buckle before the bowl gets very hot. If you heat the bottom of the cap, it takes longer for the heat to reach the risks resulting in hotter bowl temperatures.

I heat my cap near the bottom on my first cycle, then in subsequent cycles I heat the middle then closer to the top since there is still residual heat in the bowl after each cooling click.
 

-dab8-

Dyna-saur
Huh. I have one of those “make-a-bong” things somewhere. I never thought to use it with a vapcap since it’s not a standard size. Have to try it with a fat mouthpiece!

I did the same, then I replaced the s/s tip with a TI and finally the s/s body with a Ti stem.:evil:
These things seem to multiply like rabbits.:)

Lol, doesn’t this defeat the purpose of a long backwards m with spinning mouthpiece and original mouth indentation up by where you spin? That’s the configuration I want to try next.

I DO want a titanium stem with spinning mouthpiece also. I think I may disassemble all my omni pieces, use their mouthpieces for other condenserless stems, and add spinning mouthpieces and titanium condensers to the Omni stems and bodies.
 

StringTheorista

Well-Known Member
I DO want a titanium stem with spinning mouthpiece also. I think I may disassemble all my omni pieces, use their mouthpieces for other condenserless stems, and add spinning mouthpieces and titanium condensers to the Omni stems and bodies.
I did this recently. Much as I love the look of the full titanium Omni xl, I prefer the function of the Omni condenser in the CF stem, with it’s smaller airport. Fully extended Omni condenser in that stem is perfect for me. So I put the ti spinning mouthpiece on the ti Omni stem. It’s pretty. Planning to add an x-ring to dial in the perfect amount of airflow.
 

cybrguy

Putin is a War Criminal
I removed the tip and hit the fins with a little heat ... really didn’t take much
After the Ti condensers came out I determined whether I was holding an SS or a Ti condenser by whether it quickly started changing colors when heat was directly applied. I guess I never held it long enough to get color from SS. I was also only using a torch lighter.
 

Prophecy

Well-Known Member
Today it was a bit rainy day in my enviroment, so i took my omni and my skelly give it in a backpack and then go to a after rain bike ride, herb and cycling fits perfectly together in my view. :D
On my nice pause place i had a visit from a very pretty looking fly, nature can be so beautiful. :clap:

ZM7Xdd0I.png

 

-dab8-

Dyna-saur
I did this recently. Much as I love the look of the full titanium Omni xl, I prefer the function of the Omni condenser in the CF stem, with it’s smaller airport. Fully extended Omni condenser in that stem is perfect for me. So I put the ti spinning mouthpiece on the ti Omni stem. It’s pretty. Planning to add an x-ring to dial in the perfect amount of airflow.
Nice! That’s basically exactly what I want to do. Except... You speak over my head. How would you use an x-ring to further customize your airflow?
I took a torch to my m body and ss tip

5e9xdt.jpg
Hot diggity that is beautiful. How on earth... I thought only Ti could be heat anodized??? I’m a billion percent going to try that unless someone tells me there is some reason not to. Was there a specific procedure or just have at it?

M is for millions of peaches.. peaches for me.. movin to the country gonna eat a lot of peaches.

Mmmm... peach IPA? That could be amazing.
 

Squiby

Well-Known Member
How would you use an x-ring to further customize your airflow?

The x-rings sit on the standard condensers and hold the midsection and mps in place. Your stock Vapcap will have the x-ring positioned above the air intake hole so that the air intake is not impeded; the air path is clear from the intake hole all the way down to the tip.

Now if you take the x-ring that sits closest to the air intake hole and move it down the condenser, between the intake hole and the tip, you have effectively blocked the air intake hole. You can also partially block the air intake hole by moving the x-ring so that it sits right at the hole or partially blocking the hole.

Small position adjustments can be made by pushing the x-ring up the condenser while sitting inside the midsection (with the tip removed) with a straw or a skewer.

No Omni, no problem. By moving the x-ring, you can find your set it and forget it sweet spot.
 

warren0728

Well-Known Member
Hot diggity that is beautiful. How on earth... I thought only Ti could be heat anodized??? I’m a billion percent going to try that unless someone tells me there is some reason not to. Was there a specific procedure or just have at it? .
I searched online and saw it could be done ... I just held the stem (m) with a pair of pliers and heated it with my single torch lighter ... less heat makes the bronze/orange/yellow and more heat gets you the blues and purples
 

StringTheorista

Well-Known Member
Nice! That’s basically exactly what I want to do. Except... You speak over my head. How would you use an x-ring to further customize your airflow?
You put the x-ring on the condenser higher than the air port—between the air port and the tip. To block flow completely, just put it anywhere above the air port. To dial it in, I use a plastic straw (:p) to push it down the condenser towards the mouthpiece. On my Blackwood uni I have it so there’s just a very small space for air to get through above it. That black band in the air port is an x ring.
2r1z8yg.jpg

EDIT: didn’t see that @Squiby beat me to it...
 

Kalessin

Well-Known Member
You put the x-ring on the condenser higher than the air port—between the air port and the tip. To block flow completely, just put it anywhere above the air port. To dial it in, I use a plastic straw (:p) to push it down the condenser towards the mouthpiece. On my Blackwood uni I have it so there’s just a very small space for air to get through above it. That black band in the air port is an x ring.
2r1z8yg.jpg

EDIT: didn’t see that @Squiby beat me to it...
Man. I love my older style blackwood body but I am really envious of the increased airport size on the later ones...I have thought of trying to widen mine but I am pretty sure I would somehow destroy it.
 
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stark1

Lonesome Planet
You put the x-ring on the condenser higher than the air port—between the air port and the tip. To block flow completely, just put it anywhere above the air port. To dial it in, I use a plastic straw (:p) to push it down the condenser towards the mouthpiece. On my Blackwood uni I have it so there’s just a very small space for air to get through above it. That black band in the air port is an x ring.
2r1z8yg.jpg

EDIT: didn’t see that @Squiby beat me to it...


Very impressive rendition, @StringTheorista.

Soon you, too, will will be a high priestess of
VapCapology! Looks like. :tup:
 

-dab8-

Dyna-saur
You put the x-ring on the condenser higher than the air port—between the air port and the tip. To block flow completely, just put it anywhere above the air port. To dial it in, I use a plastic straw (:p) to push it down the condenser towards the mouthpiece. On my Blackwood uni I have it so there’s just a very small space for air to get through above it. That black band in the air port is an x ring.
2r1z8yg.jpg

EDIT: didn’t see that @Squiby beat me to it...
Nice, thanks! That was actually still helpful, especially with the picture. Appreciate it!

And @Squiby i recommended your x-ring post recently be added to the “best of” album. Maybe they can add both of these. Appreciate the advice!
 
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