DIY Induction Heater Builds and References
- Thread starter TommyDee
- Start date
Rei_Gado
Here to plan my next project: Tiamat
Thanks @TommyDee, I guess it's something I will need to practice. My soldering isn't great, but definitely found my first build easier after discovering flux (see first battery cradle & the coil on ZVS
). I think some hobby practice sheets are in order. I was planning on just buying ZVS modules to just practice until it works, everything in your instructions seem pretty clear to me. Except the additional wraps on the remaining coil, thats not so clear. But like you said you will get two 
. What do I need to test it works correctly or is it a case of wiring it up & seeing what happens?Edit: forgot to add the pictures from first build from last May. I've got a 60w 220v iron so not sure if that's too much.
Forgotten how to forum so here's the links to my (not so) handiwork.
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TommyDee
Vaporitor
One tip - first thing; solder any coil onto the ZVS. 60 watts is fine. Just tack it in place with a proper short bead. I will admit that 40W for irons today probably suck. My RadShack iron has been my buddy for an eternity. There is nothing this thing won't tackle and the tips are bulletproof. I use two tips; an 1/8" standard tip and a 1/16" surface mount tip. I put the iron with a little wetting on the copper wire and solder begins flowing between the board and wire immediately. I can sustain a 1/2" puddle on the board without issue with the copper wire in the mix. 60 watts is more about keeping the tip happy. Always tin the tip prior to returning it to the holder. Don't leave the iron idle too long.
Compacting and transplanting are two ways to stuff the ZVS circuits into a housing. The quickest way to reduce bulk is to remove a capacitor. Quick, simple, and easy way to reduce power by around 10+W. With the right coil/insulator combination, it won't be missed. Most people simply let the power supply suffer to reduce power. Bad form! This hack alone could make the PS much happier.
People have also remoted both chokes to a more convenient location with 18 gauge wire [recommended]. This is a simpler hack than HalfPint. I see no downside except being careful with the wire length and the proximity of the wires. Keep the wires short on the work-coil side of the inductor/choke. The other side is a junction going to positive. These two end, the common junction between the two inductors/chokes, do not actually need to go back to the board. The only other thing that the positive lead energizes is the gate circuit. You can do that through any switch. That is what the trace cut is all about.
HalfPint goes all the way and removes the capacitor and uses a trick to simulate the circuit as originally intended with one less physical coil. The common junction I just discussed is what this 'center tap' is all about. That means it doesn't have to return to the board. You will need to make a high power connection between a lead-wire and the inductor wire. Scraping insulation - fluxing and tinning to assure a clean land. Once it is ready for a solder connection, the solder will need to flow to all the right places to make it a good joint. This is what experience tells you.
Wetting solder on workpieces has a lot to do with having the workpieces fixed in place to that you have two hands and steady workpiece to hold the iron and the solder only.
Technically this is a very common electrical characteristic.
The capacitor(s), the onboard-FETs, and the work coil need to remain terminated in close proximity.
Compacting and transplanting are two ways to stuff the ZVS circuits into a housing. The quickest way to reduce bulk is to remove a capacitor. Quick, simple, and easy way to reduce power by around 10+W. With the right coil/insulator combination, it won't be missed. Most people simply let the power supply suffer to reduce power. Bad form! This hack alone could make the PS much happier.
People have also remoted both chokes to a more convenient location with 18 gauge wire [recommended]. This is a simpler hack than HalfPint. I see no downside except being careful with the wire length and the proximity of the wires. Keep the wires short on the work-coil side of the inductor/choke. The other side is a junction going to positive. These two end, the common junction between the two inductors/chokes, do not actually need to go back to the board. The only other thing that the positive lead energizes is the gate circuit. You can do that through any switch. That is what the trace cut is all about.
HalfPint goes all the way and removes the capacitor and uses a trick to simulate the circuit as originally intended with one less physical coil. The common junction I just discussed is what this 'center tap' is all about. That means it doesn't have to return to the board. You will need to make a high power connection between a lead-wire and the inductor wire. Scraping insulation - fluxing and tinning to assure a clean land. Once it is ready for a solder connection, the solder will need to flow to all the right places to make it a good joint. This is what experience tells you.
Wetting solder on workpieces has a lot to do with having the workpieces fixed in place to that you have two hands and steady workpiece to hold the iron and the solder only.
Technically this is a very common electrical characteristic.
The capacitor(s), the onboard-FETs, and the work coil need to remain terminated in close proximity.
Rei_Gado
Here to plan my next project: Tiamat
Thanks for the advice TD! Happy accident I attempted to solder the work coil to the ZVS first, I am somewhat of a sponge so any advice is appreciated 
Have ordered a pair of ZVS modules to practice on along with a solder pump to aid getting bits off so will see how that goes & if I can condense it down to fit my intended enclosure.
I do have another question about batteries, I have settled on (for now) a LiPo battery this one for FPV goggles. Size & capacity seem great but only has 5C rating for discharging, is that too low??
Have ordered a pair of ZVS modules to practice on along with a solder pump to aid getting bits off so will see how that goes & if I can condense it down to fit my intended enclosure.I do have another question about batteries, I have settled on (for now) a LiPo battery this one for FPV goggles. Size & capacity seem great but only has 5C rating for discharging, is that too low??
hey everyone,
im currently on my path to build a 3x 18650-powered IH. I finished the battery part of it, but now comes the hard part: the IH.
For those who are interested, this is the current state:
Thanks you, @TommyDee, for all the help you have provided the community here and also in the subreddit. I love your Box Troll and all other HP mods.
In two days my next IH module and the 18 to 14 mm adapter will arrive and I will try building a HalfPint. Today i practiced building one with my dead old module (see next picture for what happened) and im confident i got the skills
I'm a computer scientist, but was never interested in the physics, so I don't really know what i'm doing. I think I understood the modifications but I don't understand how coil turns, coil length, power draw, current draw and so on are really connected. Could you guys help me understand how to optimise for my 2018 M Cap? It would be great to build an IH with a coil that stays cold, so I can print a closed case for it. For which heat-up time should I aim? Are there modifications, that I have to do specifically for my 3S18650xHalfPint IH?
Also, on page 1 @TommyDee has something between the glas and the coil. What's that? Why's that?
im currently on my path to build a 3x 18650-powered IH. I finished the battery part of it, but now comes the hard part: the IH.
For those who are interested, this is the current state:
Thanks you, @TommyDee, for all the help you have provided the community here and also in the subreddit. I love your Box Troll and all other HP mods.
In two days my next IH module and the 18 to 14 mm adapter will arrive and I will try building a HalfPint. Today i practiced building one with my dead old module (see next picture for what happened) and im confident i got the skills
I'm a computer scientist, but was never interested in the physics, so I don't really know what i'm doing. I think I understood the modifications but I don't understand how coil turns, coil length, power draw, current draw and so on are really connected. Could you guys help me understand how to optimise for my 2018 M Cap? It would be great to build an IH with a coil that stays cold, so I can print a closed case for it. For which heat-up time should I aim? Are there modifications, that I have to do specifically for my 3S18650xHalfPint IH?
Also, on page 1 @TommyDee has something between the glas and the coil. What's that? Why's that?
TommyDee
Vaporitor
Hello @picowave - Thank you for the kudos my friend.
HalfPint-proper is a lot more involved that removing one cap. I suggest the one cap method and call it a day. Remoting the two chokes is a much simpler hack and allows for a lot more packaging options.
To keep the coil cool, don't shorten it.
All the tricks to remove a choke is what causes the complexity. The performance isn't notably different.
When space is the true premium, then yes, it may be worth considering one of a few configurations.
The technical side of this is moot unless you are doing analysis. I was doing a lot of analysis and sharing.
HalfPint-proper is a lot more involved that removing one cap. I suggest the one cap method and call it a day. Remoting the two chokes is a much simpler hack and allows for a lot more packaging options.
To keep the coil cool, don't shorten it.
All the tricks to remove a choke is what causes the complexity. The performance isn't notably different.
When space is the true premium, then yes, it may be worth considering one of a few configurations.
The technical side of this is moot unless you are doing analysis. I was doing a lot of analysis and sharing.
TommyDee
Vaporitor
Directly, no. I run 3S on these and find that power range, 9-12.6V, to work very well. There is a low voltage limitation in the circuit based on the MOSFET that are on-board.
Two options;
- Design a ZVS circuit to function from 3-4.2V. This would require 20amps at 3 volts to generate 60 watts.
- Put a DC-DC boost converter after the battery and bring the voltage up. Again, the cell could be drawing 20 amps to produce 60 watts.
60 watts is a very nice bake level.
The device itself is analog and draws more power as voltage goes up. Regulation at these power levels is important.
I keep saying that the MOD boxes have the tech needed to drive a ZVS circuit with straight voltage mode or even limited power modes. We just need to disable the coil sensing from the code. I'd say a 2S MOD with 9-11 volt output would be the right way to go. You can tune voltage by reducing coil count. Almost 1V/turn.
Two options;
- Design a ZVS circuit to function from 3-4.2V. This would require 20amps at 3 volts to generate 60 watts.
- Put a DC-DC boost converter after the battery and bring the voltage up. Again, the cell could be drawing 20 amps to produce 60 watts.
60 watts is a very nice bake level.
The device itself is analog and draws more power as voltage goes up. Regulation at these power levels is important.
I keep saying that the MOD boxes have the tech needed to drive a ZVS circuit with straight voltage mode or even limited power modes. We just need to disable the coil sensing from the code. I'd say a 2S MOD with 9-11 volt output would be the right way to go. You can tune voltage by reducing coil count. Almost 1V/turn.
Rei_Gado
Here to plan my next project: Tiamat
Right so I've spent the last few days reading your posts @TommyDee & I think I've scrapped enough up into layman terms to attempt your fantastic modification. I do have some questions though that I couldn't work out.
Please bare with me whilst I try to understand.
So the trace cut is what allows you attach power to the gate circuit? Is this part of your aim with the HalfPint to decrease other components or is this required for the HalfPint to function in its current configuration?
If it is not required can you leave that trace uncut & not have to add a new ground pad & use the original + - terminals?
Pretty certain I will need to do the upright version of HalfPint for my build, do the inductor & cap subassembly differ in this configuration & do you have any pictures to see what has been done?
Edit: Forgot to ask, if the trace cut & ground pad edits aren't done does that affect the centre tap for the 3 connections?
So the CT is an auto(bot)transformer
Please bare with me whilst I try to understand.
So the trace cut is what allows you attach power to the gate circuit? Is this part of your aim with the HalfPint to decrease other components or is this required for the HalfPint to function in its current configuration?
If it is not required can you leave that trace uncut & not have to add a new ground pad & use the original + - terminals?
Pretty certain I will need to do the upright version of HalfPint for my build, do the inductor & cap subassembly differ in this configuration & do you have any pictures to see what has been done?
Edit: Forgot to ask, if the trace cut & ground pad edits aren't done does that affect the centre tap for the 3 connections?
So the CT is an auto(bot)transformer
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Sorry but what type and gauge of wires i need to start thinking to try half pint and in general work on the ZVS module ? I build a standard one with mofset and mom switch and works, but i used what i have in my house, old solder old flux spare wires...i would like to buy better tooks and wires but I'm noob.
TommyDee
Vaporitor
12 awg magnet wire @GI .
All great questions @Rei_Gado -
Trace cut is only to allow the use of a low power switch on the positive trace. Completely optional for HalfPint.
The standard -IN negative input connection is just fine. I remove the connector and the hole is too small.
The center tap is simply the positive power input. It really doesn't have to go back to the board. You can wire it outside of the circuit. This is essentially what the trace cut did.
And consider this... if your build is better off with 2 chokes/inductors, by all means just remote 2 chokes and don't bring the common connection between them back to the ZVS board. Now all you need to operate the device is a low power momentary on the positive input +IN because the chokes are no longer connected. They are what draw all the power. That might be a different way of looking at it.
I like the 3-legged center-tap coil because it is very stable if you get some great solder beads, and you are aiming for some great solder beads if you want to refine the build.
All great questions @Rei_Gado -
Trace cut is only to allow the use of a low power switch on the positive trace. Completely optional for HalfPint.
The standard -IN negative input connection is just fine. I remove the connector and the hole is too small.
The center tap is simply the positive power input. It really doesn't have to go back to the board. You can wire it outside of the circuit. This is essentially what the trace cut did.
And consider this... if your build is better off with 2 chokes/inductors, by all means just remote 2 chokes and don't bring the common connection between them back to the ZVS board. Now all you need to operate the device is a low power momentary on the positive input +IN because the chokes are no longer connected. They are what draw all the power. That might be a different way of looking at it.
I like the 3-legged center-tap coil because it is very stable if you get some great solder beads, and you are aiming for some great solder beads if you want to refine the build.
Hi,
This is what i done since now, quite basic IH like many tutorial around do, it works but is too fast heat, but it's fun to move the vacap in or out and find different way to heat, like a torch.
Anyway, i would go from here to an half-pint, but need practice, when i done this i unsolder many thing and then resolder again just for practice.
So the next step i would like to do is leave one cap and move the other up for a more compact form.
So i ask, it's right to: remove one cap, move the other near the 2 coils cut the trace and use the little mom switch on the trace and remove the mofset or i need to do other modification ?
Thanks,
Please, tell me if i have to post in a new thread or can stay here, i don't want to waste threads.
This is what i done since now, quite basic IH like many tutorial around do, it works but is too fast heat, but it's fun to move the vacap in or out and find different way to heat, like a torch.
Anyway, i would go from here to an half-pint, but need practice, when i done this i unsolder many thing and then resolder again just for practice.
So the next step i would like to do is leave one cap and move the other up for a more compact form.
So i ask, it's right to: remove one cap, move the other near the 2 coils cut the trace and use the little mom switch on the trace and remove the mofset or i need to do other modification ?
Thanks,
Please, tell me if i have to post in a new thread or can stay here, i don't want to waste threads.
Attachments
update for my battery-pack powered IH build (that also works with 12V6A power supply):
I tried building a Half-Pint with one board, but the LED no longer lights up and the vapcap doesn't get warm :/ but that was more for the fun and just trying things out.
The last days I spent MANY hours designing a case that is as small as possible, while still containing the Full Size board with both yellow coils, both capacitors, the coil with the glass adapter, a nice big 12V button and the power plug. I think I now finished this build and am looking forward to my next one
@TommyDee and also everyone else: I would love to get criticism for my build, so feel free to point out potential improvements or errors.
I speak from experience when I say that it works
Thanks for all the help and inspiration Tommy!
my next project: test some sensors on an esp8266 wifi microcontroller
The microcontroller could also log my vape sessions
Maybe also IR temp sensing? I have to look into which sensors would maybe work.
I tried building a Half-Pint with one board, but the LED no longer lights up and the vapcap doesn't get warm :/ but that was more for the fun and just trying things out.
The last days I spent MANY hours designing a case that is as small as possible, while still containing the Full Size board with both yellow coils, both capacitors, the coil with the glass adapter, a nice big 12V button and the power plug. I think I now finished this build and am looking forward to my next one
@TommyDee and also everyone else: I would love to get criticism for my build, so feel free to point out potential improvements or errors.
I speak from experience when I say that it works
Thanks for all the help and inspiration Tommy!
my next project: test some sensors on an esp8266 wifi microcontroller
The microcontroller could also log my vape sessions
Maybe also IR temp sensing? I have to look into which sensors would maybe work.
Rei_Gado
Here to plan my next project: Tiamat
Awesome, thanks for the reply TD happy to hear I'm making sense of this. My fresh 18awg wire arrived this morning so had a bash at wrapping the inductor as per what I've read on page 3. First attempt here but I cut each wire at 33" & have wrapped 16 times on each side (some movement so they're no longer the same length at the start
) but I have quite a bit of additional length left. What do I do about that??? Was I supposed to use 16.5" of wire for each half wrap or can I just cut off the extra now I have the required wraps?(Guess which side was first
got more comfortable with it by the time I started the second)Work coil winding is next, once that's done & the ZVS is re-assembled I can start wiring it all up
Done.
Work coil done
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Rei_Gado
Here to plan my next project: Tiamat
Ahh shoot, did the work coil at 30" & that'll be why the ends of my coil are fairly short. Guess I'd better wrap another one
Also, thank you! Was hoping the jig would be useful.
TommyDee
Vaporitor
Only thing to remember for testing is to have the coil soldered on, even a temporary solder connection. After that, 5-6V and about 1 amp or so will let you test the circuit without a VapCap. More current and you can also test this super low voltage induction heating. I get great sessions with 9 volts at around 35-40 watts. That is about 3-1/2, 4 amps.
