There is a premise in your question that is not accurate - tuning an IH changes when the cap clicks.
Let us first address tuning - Tune to the -second- heating -after- a forced cooldown click on the first heating.
The reason for this is the stored heat from the first heating. If you tuned for an optimal draw on the first bake, you will combust on the second. This was evident when George explained how to get the most from your vapcap;
'Heat to the click (small draw optional); cool to the cooldown click on the magnet; heat to the click; draw like heck w/ air port wide open.' And he guarantees this will deliver the perfect draw.
I don't subscribe to the air port part and of course I will take the first draw. But in general, there is wisdom in George's reveal.
So when does a cap click? Well, actually the click is a follower. The clicker clicks when the heat finally gets there, traveling though the walls of the cap. Therefore, where the heat from the IH or a lighter is centered on the cap, that is where the heat propagates from. Closer to digger is a longer delay for the heat to reach the clicker since the distance is longer. This is critical to know about induction heaters. There is a definite hot zone in the center of the coil. This is where the cap discolors the most from heating with an IH.
Where heating with a flame matters, so does the heating with the IH. Most IH's don't recognize the depth of insertion. A few, like Pipes and Fluxer Heaters have allowed fine tuning by changing the height of the coil in relation to the actuation switch. For small coil heaters, this variation is measured in millimeters. For more generous coil diameters like the Wand, this is more forgiving but not by much.
The second part of the tune is less critical and is very much geared to user preference - this is watts. Most IHs pull about 1.5 amps without a cap inserted (actuated however) and they can pull anywhere from 2.5A to well over 8A depending on cap being inserted. This translates to a range from 30 watts to well over 90 watts. This is a real problem for makers but it is manageable if you consider the battery's voltage range for portables. I find that heaters pulling more than 70 watts tend to put a lot of fresh reclaim on the walls of the condenser or the stem forcing a lot of cleaning of some very blond reclaim. Excess wattage can also make every cap act differently using the same settings. Orion, for instance, didn't do justice to my caps where my Fluxer Flite will heat every tip roughly the same at the click. All of my heaters are tuned to less than 70 watts and are repeatable across my growing collection of caps.
In tuning, you first determine the wattage you need. Gentle bakes are 45-50 watts where my level of aggressiveness is limited to 70 watts max. My reclaim is dark deep red and a rare event to need a cleaning (when the reclaim reaches the lips). And my habit is a good 1/2-1 gram of flower per day. Tuning is mostly done with the number of winds in the coil. Don't cut the wire but do reduce the coil count if you want less current draw with the cap inserted. Again, caps vary all over the map so you need to accept a range. Use your hottest cap as a guide.
Once the wattage is tuned, set the click temperature by ingress depth adjustment. Deeper ingress means more delay of heat getting to the clicker, and means more heat/bake. Again, as explained above, tune to the second heating. You can take the second draw to the edge for the most cloud and thickest vape. Subsequent draws are all on a downward spiral for enjoyment. This is where I employ master Piggies sip&dip by continuously adding heat until I get that 'done' signal which is different for everyone. Therefore, I always get 3 hits. That 3rd one is for my medicine so I choose to maximize my extraction. I do get some scorching but that is necessary for the heavier molecules.
Now your question regarding the Wand - it cannot be too hot since it doesn't have a ingress adjustment. If you use an available adapter, your stuck with 'their' tune. I don't like any of the adapters. I have a 7/8" wooden disk in the bottom with a cork dot from Joann's. This tune is similar to my other IHs. The Wand is also a fairly tame heater so the wattage question is answered by a "well within the desired range". HotShot and Brute from Pipes were tuned perfectly and identical. No adjustments needed for me. I helped tune the Fluxer Flites; mine is perfect and still my fav.
These are the nits that a lot of heaters don't allow as variables. This is why we build our own. Having to 'hold you mouth right' to get a good hit just doesn't cut it for me.