HotShot and the Wand use an internal USB converter. Very handy.
Thank you very much for the feedback and that was very helpful to not waste the money on the stand or anything like that. I agree I think I would prefer to use it like you like a torch with more control.@PutOneInTheAir , I'm another big fan of the Wand. I've built several IH's and love talking to people about building them but the Wand is what gets used day to day. I bought it impulsively and worried it was a mistake, it wasn't, it's great. Like many others I don't bother with an insert, I just freehand it over the VC where it's mounted on a bubbler. I much prefer bringing the IH to the VC rather than having to dip into a box, flip over and then insert into the glass. There were a few combustion events in the early days but that is rare now that I have the hang of it.
I have the stand but never used it again after the first try, not's worth paying for.
Yeah, we are so close to 4/20 you will be better off waiting. I got mine with a Black Friday deal for I think $120, it might go close to that again (plus a premium for the world economy going to hell). I might not like my Wand quite as much if I had paid full retail.they seem to have a lot of good sales
Yeah I seen that deal It was a good one, I've been kicking myself in the butt sinceYeah, we are so close to 4/20 you will be better off waiting. I got mine with a Black Friday deal for I think $120, it might go close to that again (plus a premium for the world economy going to hell). I might not like my Wand quite as much if I had paid full retail.
Typical induction coils for industry do have space in between the wraps. Our tightly wound coils are a matter of putting a lot of copper in a small space. basically, the circuit is tuned to a specific wire gauge at a specific length. In our case, we use 12 gauge at 33" long for 12V operation. Turns out that voltage and coil length are very much related. This means you can lower the voltage as you shorten the wire and still draw the same watts....
One thing that has me curious as for the coil itself I know you could take a wrap off or so and lower the wattage, I would be curious what would happen if you say went 3/4 of the way down the coil and you just separated a few of them so there's a bigger gap, what would that do to the wattage? The reason I ask is I can see this being beneficial if you wanted less heat towards the top of the cap but say if the DynaVap went too deep into the stem and was heating that? Not sure if that makes sense?
Okay I just wasn't sure because I was surprised how close it was to those two round things on top (can you please tell me what those are by the way)There is a fairly robust epoxy on the wire that acts as an insulator.
Totally ,in agreement TD!However, I am a fan of taking any extra length of coil wire and wrapping it on the outside of the coil. This is the simple way to make the best of what you have - a large wire gauge coil that stays relatively cool with our intermittent use case.
Those donut things are inductors, or as we use to call them, chokes. They convert electricity to magnetism and back to electricity again.Okay I just wasn't sure because I was surprised how close it was to those two round things on top (can you please tell me what those are by the way)
That meter seems to work pretty fine also with the plug-in I checked my SJK induction heater and it was bouncing between 60 and 75ish with the cap in
So I hooked up the wires just real quick and everything works I have the variable voltage power supply and I'm checking the wattage and in order for me to get to about 60 watts I'm running almost 10 amps. Does that sound about right? Or maybe the wattage meter is off or power supply I guess.
Has a general rule of thumb how many seconds would you say is pretty good for the cap to heat the first go and how many seconds on the second go just trying to get a baseline
Thank you.Those donut things are inductors, or as we use to call them, chokes. They convert electricity to magnetism and back to electricity again.
2019 stainless steel tipOh good, no, 10V is often a very good place to land. 60 watts is only 6 amps at 10 volts... Remember that the power supply's inefficiency also has to be accounted for at the wall plug meter.
Curiosity question; what cap are you cooking with?
The only thing I'm having a hard time figure now is if I put the cap to the bottom of the coil then I'm basically in the induction heater with my stem and it gets really hot. And if I back it out then it seems like the cap clicks too soon.You got a decent cap, as far as induction coupling goes. Also the perfect tip IMHO.
My starting point for click level tuning is the bottom of the coil flush with the flat of the cap. Deeper means more delay for heat to reach the clicker. Delay means more induction heat injected into the cap. This is preference tuning. Most caps will respond very similarly. Keeping the power level under control, say under 70 watts, is what makes caps behave similarly. All my caps are tuned to all my IHs... seriously.
The power level is the voltage control. You pick your 'pace' of heating. There is no honor in a fast bake. You want what the flower will give up, you are on its pace. And detuning with voltage control is the optimum way to experience exactly what you want.
Flame heating is a point source. IH is a radial source - multi-flame