DIY Induction Heater Builds and References

[TommyDee]

As long as the coil is soldered onto the board, you should be safe running a test, If they blow then, there is a problem with the boards.

 

[TommyDee]

Understand, i have to find a converter capable in Ampere like 12v 10A ? My caps are less than 5A only the 19M go up a little more at 12v. I plan to use for myself or friends with previousaamperage check.

Stressing the power supply will make it fail earlier. If you know you are operating well within its capability, you are good to go with whatever you need ratings-wise. Caps that draw higher currents are becoming rarer every day. The occasional over-current isn't going to kill the thing and if it is a quality power supply, it will 'fold-back' to a safe condition or simply shut off the power.

There are also cheap voltage regulators that can do the job of monitoring and providing variable voltage. On the hotter caps, you can just turn is down a little. I have used some 19V computer supplies that are capable of 72 watts. I use a buck converter and tada!... 11V 6A on the other side.

The bottom line with power supplies is to not go over their rating. Things heat up and things fail prematurely. Having margin in excess of 10% is a waste of space when it comes to powering IHs. You know to keep an eye on the current draw for different caps - just do that.

 

[PutOneInTheAir]

I have a question I'm sure it's been covered in here but I'm just starting out reading this thread after finding it right now.

I am just getting into figuring out how to build a DIY induction heater

I was looking at getting a 5-12v 120w ZVS

I had a few questions should I get a 8 amp 75w power supply or a 10 amp 120w power supply? Is more amps more reliable?

I was also looking at a power supply that you could adjust the amperage 4-12v. 10amp 120w. Would this work and help me be able to dial in the clicking time to make sure the oven is getting fully saturated or would there be any dangers to using a variable amperage power supply?

 

[TommyDee]

You will thank yourself for getting the variable voltage supply. You want to dial in that voltage level for your needs. Highly desirable.
As to wattage. the "8 amps 75w" is not a 12V supply, right? There is a 'depends' attached to scaling down the power supply. You may only need 60 watts, but you buy 120 watts which is a waste of space and money. Buy a good ammeter (current meter) and see what the setup really draws for power. It is not what the supply can push, but what the IH demands that matters. It is different with every cap. Variable voltage will solve that in a simple solution. Personally, I like lab supplies when it comes to a useful desktop supply with CC control. It lets you dial in the watts if it has a watts meter.

 

[PutOneInTheAir]

I was thinking about picking up this power supply SHNITPWR 4V - 12V Power Supply 10A 120W AC to DC Adapter DC 4V 4.5V 5V 6V 7V 8V 9V 10V 11V 12V Voltage Adjustable Universal Power Converter Transformer 100-240V AC In with 14 Tips & Polarity Converter. Do you think that would work good with the 130w zvs? volt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08N4FB7M...t_i_VSJPHMV6J1H68W4RGD0Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[TommyDee]

That looks like the right solution. You won't be pulling the full 120 watts. The sweet spot is around 60-70 watts. Many enjoy even less.

 

[PutOneInTheAir]

Perfect basically what I was planning was getting a ZVS then just this power supply hooking up the wires then plug it into a smart plug most of them you just have a button you could push so I wasn't even going to wire up a push button just the board and coil straight to adjustable power supply to smart plug. Does it sound like anything I'm missing?

The other thing I'm not sure of is what size gauge wire do you recommend I buy to hook up the plug adapter to the board?

As far as the draw of wattage I have a older little unit that basically you would plug the induction heater to then that would plug into the wall and it will show how many watts is being used so I figured I could lower it until I get to that 60 to 70 watts.

The wires kind of what has me stumped I just want to make sure I build something that's going to be reliable I really don't want to be replacing stuff every few weeks

 

[TommyDee]

You want to wire the unit using 18 gauge or bigger. You want a switch - momentary. These things continue to get hotter if you just leave them on. Turning down the power on the VVPS could cause issues. There is that pesky minimum 5V specification.

 

[PutOneInTheAir]

You want to wire the unit using 18 gauge or bigger. You want a switch - momentary. These things continue to get hotter if you just leave them on. Turning down the power on the VVPS could cause issues. There is that pesky minimum 5V specification.

That's what I was wondering in my head I figured if you went blow the rated 5 volt there could be the issues and if you win above the 12 volt there could be issues

One of the kill a watt plugs should probably work correct?

Honestly tell me I'm not as near as smart as you when it comes to electrical stuff so I'm trying to go as easy as possible for DIY

I just bought a SJK induction heater and it seems to work all right I figured to build one where I could adjust the wattage it would cost the same exact amount that one did


kuman KW47-US Electricity Usage Monitor Plug Power Watt Voltage Amps Meter with Digital LCD, Overload Protection and 7 Display Modes for Energy Saving (NO-Backlight), white https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DPJ3RG...t_i_EHNW7NRXXD3G3N5RBMP4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

 

[TommyDee]

I like that meter. That will give you some decent feedback.

I like simple myself. Find a momentary switch that can push 8 amps minimum. Then you don't need the MOSFET switch solution so universally being used. Don't worry about a lighted switch - that just makes it more difficult to understand the wiring.

 

[PutOneInTheAir]

I like that meter. That will give you some decent feedback.

I like simple myself. Find a momentary switch that can push 8 amps minimum. Then you don't need the MOSFET switch solution so universally being used. Don't worry about a lighted switch - that just makes it more difficult to understand the wiring.

Dang you're right that's why it was so much more difficult with the wiring because they had the LED lights I'm assuming that's why there's four wires coming off of the button I imagine if you just have a plain Jane push button you connect the positive to the positive then back out to the power supply adapter and the negative to the negative back out to the power supply adapter? Probably only two posts on that button compared to the four with the LED ones. Please correct me if I'm wrong?

I can't thank you enough for taking the time to help me figure this out I was so intimidated before talking to you

 

[TommyDee]

Happy to help @PutOneInTheAir . You are right on the lighted switches. They tend to stimy a lot of builders.

 

[PutOneInTheAir]

Happy to help @PutOneInTheAir . You are right on the lighted switches. They tend to stimy a lot of builders.

Can I ask your honest opinion? I already have the SJK which is the cheap Chinese one which I'm sure you're aware of?

I'm adding everything up and without a housing the DIY one with 8 amp power supply will come out to about the same money as the SJK. Do you think the DIY would be a noticeable improvement or a relatively the same

 

[Gizmo1k]

Can I ask your honest opinion? I already have the SJK which is the cheap Chinese one which I'm sure you're aware of?

I'm adding everything up and without a housing the DIY one with 8 amp power supply will come out to about the same money as the SJK. Do you think the DIY would be a noticeable improvement or a relatively the same

I think it might be worth investing in the ddave mod adapter. https://www.ddavemods.com/store/p73/The_IH_(Induction_Heater)_Hands-Free_Mod.html

 

[PutOneInTheAir]

I think it might be worth investing in the ddave mod adapter. https://www.ddavemods.com/store/p73/The_IH_(Induction_Heater)_Hands-Free_Mod.html

I went the cheap route and drilled out a cork to position the DynaVap the same.lol

 

[TommyDee]

I have never tried the SJK so that I cannot compare. The big difference is tunability.

 

[PutOneInTheAir]

I have never tried the SJK so that I cannot compare. The big difference is tunability.

I got the parts on the way with the variable voltage power supply

I also found a DIY builder that does portable units runs off of three 18650s

He says he uses a moset and MBS, It doesn't have any charging ports you got to pop the batteries out and charge them on their own but it's a pretty nice box and everything about $100.

I don't know too much yet about the DIY build with the batteries but doesn't sound like a terrible deal? I just want to make sure it's safe

 

[TommyDee]

I built my first IH for under $20. I'd say build your first one and then look further.

If you want portable at a value price, connect with Pipes for a HotShot. $100 for a DIY seems a bit high.
Besides that, an IH with a BMS can have an issue if your tough the BMS while changing the batteries. It requires a power source on the the output to reboot the BMS. That cured me of not providing the charge plug. It is part of the BMS and just needs a connector. That should solve charging in place unless it isn't fully wired as instructed.

 

[PutOneInTheAir]

I built my first IH for under $20. I'd say build your first one and then look further.

If you want portable at a value price, connect with Pipes for a HotShot. $100 for a DIY seems a bit high.
Besides that, an IH with a BMS can have an issue if your tough the BMS while changing the batteries. It requires a power source on the the output to reboot the BMS. That cured me of not providing the charge plug. It is part of the BMS and just needs a connector. That should solve charging in place unless it isn't fully wired as instructed.

I'm sorry I wasn't clear it's not DIY it's a complete build that isn't a 3D printed box. In order to charge you have to remove the 18650 batteries and charge them alone there is no charge port on the device. Maybe that is why?


Anyways quick question went to the hardware store to pick up some wire I do not have my conduction heater board yet I will have it tomorrow but I ended up getting some solid 14awg wire. Would this work for connecting the power supply to the board? One is this the correct wire and two I couldn't really find 18 gauge do you think that this one would even fit into the connections for the power supply adapter and on the board? I had no clue what I was getting into with the wires so many different options

 

[TommyDee]

The 14 gauge wire will fit in the ZVS connectors. You can always go to larger wires.

I spent the better part of a year digging into these silly things. One step forward and two steps back at every turn. That is why a lack of charge port seems odd since all you need is a connector on the output of the BMS and pump 12.6V in at some limited current range.

Since I got into this circuit and its many variables, many artisans have come forth and even Dynavap and Ispire did some good works to make the market a little more competitive. It is a lot harder to justify your own build unless you are comfortable around electronics or at least have a soldering iron stowed somewhere in your workbench. I've seen people really take to this fruitful hobby and others shrink in frustration.

Corded IHs are the simplest option. They can be dressed up with lights and meters, but it is just putting power to the connector and if it is tuned for you, it will always do what you want. When you start going batteries, there is a lot of housekeeping features. Batteries also means a range of power since LiPo and LiIons have a significant voltage change during their charge. This affects performance as IHs reduce power as voltage reduces. Then add how the ZVS isn't really wired optimally. That is the reason for the MOSFET (switch) which has been the staple since inception. I never liked the MOSFET and it is finally disappearing from artisan and commercial units.

 

[PutOneInTheAir]

Thank you for confirming on the 14 gauge. I wasn't sure exactly I was going to get 12 but then decided I'll go with the 14 just in case. I also bought some heat shrink sleeves I've seen a couple of people put them around the coil on the sides I believe it was pipes. I'm definitely going to go through with the build just to have fun plus you also give me the idea because I have a log vape that is variable voltage but now I could hook it to that wattage plug and see where I'm running at and fine-tune things.


I thought it was kind of weird about the charging port at the end of the day or rather spend probably the extra 40 50 bucks and get the wand or something else That's portable. I would actually love to hear your input if it was you personally would you go for the wand or VHB mini

I've been following and looking through your builds checking out your half pints and all the fun things you've done. I would be curious to hear your opinion on these cheap little ZVS modules, overall how is the reliability? I would think they are probably pretty short-lived?

 

[RustyOldNail]

That is why a lack of charge port seems odd since all you need is a connector on the output of the BMS and pump 12.6V in at some limited current range.

I remember Jeff telling me that it was possible to use a larger 12v power supply with my Fluxer Deluxe, if I wanted to go A.C., but WARNED me the way it was wired to always remember to remove all 3 18650 batteries. The charge port is “HOT”. Perhaps, whatever unit you folks are discussing is wired similarly, so they don’t offer a charge port? Just a thought.....

 

[TommyDee]

I really appreciate your following up on all these things IH for Dynavap. It has been a wonderful journey for me during covid times. It tickles me to no end to see so much innovation go into this hobby in such a short time.

I cannot do justice to VHB because I've never used one. They know the tricks and they are doing this very well by all accounts. There is no downside to the Wand. It is my daily on my CBD outdoor. The tech in the wand, for us, is truly next level, yet inaccessible to tweak. There is a HotShot and a Brute doing duty inside. These are both great carry IHs. And my goto fave is FireFlite, Flite #0. All THC gets consumed with FireFlite. It all has to do with which kit it belongs to. But notice I don't do plugins... it is a burden to me. Portable has always been my goal in a compact size. The Fluxer Flite is my favorite. Pipes pocketables is a very close second. For value's sake with great service, Pipes is the man.

The charge port is a pass-through port typically on the output of the BMS. This doubles as the charge port. Unless there is a converter in the way, you could consider it a direct-wire unless there is a switch in the way. In Flite, the socket is electrically hot and fused to the BMS/batteries. I can use my Flite as a battery pack for a plugin. It is a fused output. I don't know exactly how the previous models were wired so I cannot speak to that.

 

[PutOneInTheAir]

Thank you for the great explanation. I'll definitely keep you posted on how it goes once I start the build

 

[GI]

Hi, it's possible to use a usb charger circuit mounted in the box like the one in external charger, use usb for charge and jack for input dc and a switch to select wallpower/batteries ?