DIY Bulli Vaporizer

E0x

Well-Known Member
Here is my new creation which didnt take much extra to create.

4gnBc2E.jpg


cn0nrcd.jpg


That is a mini-ELB (not the two cap elbow smash method) that was made from the top of a regular ELB (smashed) and the bottom of a Arizer q screen.

3iyVeB5.jpg


I know what everyone is thinking!!! Thats way too close. Well.....I think its perfect :cool::cool: :cool:

WE2oEoG.jpg

mpFP78K.jpg


This setup should allow me to use the least amount of power because the coil is so close. Right now im using a TCR of 138 and temps get up to maybe 320F and I can start vaping.

If this setup is too close I can just get more of this glass and cut it where it is shorter.

Ive learned that the more red the coil is the worst the taste get. SO if you can get vaping temps without it turning red it should be a perfect long lasting coil.

Im sure @Pipes coil works pretty well in these regards. I just had some space issues.



i already have everything for make this setup but missing the coil data : material , what ohms have and what setting of TCR and what temp .

can you help me with this info ?

thank you.
 
E0x,

StonerSloth

cui bono?
i already have everything for make this setup but missing the coil data : material , what ohms have and what setting of TCR and what temp .

can you help me with this info ?

thank you.


I am using 316L SS 22awg wire with a TCR of 190.

The temperature will depend on the size of your heating coil, air flow rate, the mass of your atomizer, etc. but start around 420 F and go up gradually from there.

You probably don't need more than 50 W, maybe less. Maybe more if you have a lot of air flow.
 

enjiatt

Well-Known Member
I call her DELILAH

This is the larger version, smaller version will be coming shortly.

made of mostly glass and using the firewood capsule system.

One is 22 gauge (works well with evic mini) and the other is 20 gauge (super quick vapor but need high wattage mod)
YZe4aD5.jpg

9CRtUIB.jpg

ffExfpR.jpg

0zKTJdf.jpg

f439uq8.jpg

U92ijRy.jpg

X0OXzW0.jpg

NJpsoNI.jpg

OrhJ4ll.jpg
 

donnyp

Well-Known Member
I call her DELILAH

This is the larger version, smaller version will be coming shortly.

made of mostly glass and using the firewood capsule system.

One is 22 gauge (works well with evic mini) and the other is 20 gauge (super quick vapor but need high wattage mod)
YZe4aD5.jpg

9CRtUIB.jpg

ffExfpR.jpg

0zKTJdf.jpg

f439uq8.jpg

U92ijRy.jpg

X0OXzW0.jpg

NJpsoNI.jpg

OrhJ4ll.jpg

Very very nice. I drew up something almost exactly this the other day while tossing ideas around. Firewood capsules and all. So this is cool to see someone else's take on it.

Where are you all sourcing the glass tube from? Online, or is there a local source in not thinking of. Because sure I can measure, order, and wait. Or I can go fiddle with stuff in person which I'd prefer.

I'm starting to get parts trickling in. I'm too exceited.
 
donnyp,

StonerSloth

cui bono?
@enjiatt - Love the use of the Firewood capsules! Didn't realize they used glass capsules! I may need to buy one for some tests. I have not had good luck with either Pinnacle Pro stainless bullets or the Cloud ELB's. Maybe glass is the answer to the capsule dilemma... Can you please give me the exact dimensions of the capsules?? Thanks in advance!

I am trying to keep my portable builds rugged and stealthy, so I am a little hesitant with the glass, but they look pretty sturdy...... I would love a capsule system for on the go!

The mfg of the Bulli sells upper chambers for 17.50 Euro so that could get pricey. Complete Kayfun Mini clones are $10.18 at fasttech lol. Not a bad idea to buy a few of those and just use the upper chambers for on the go and save the other parts as spares......
 
StonerSloth,

Gator

Active Member
OK finally had some time to make this project happen!!

This setup blows my arizer air out of the water! I don't feel the need to purchase a grasshopper or crafty anymore, and I'm almost certain this runs lap around them too.

OK the list of ingredients
1. 2.5" L x 1.25" O.D. hard wood doweling
2. UD IGO w14 RDA http://coolvape.ca/products/ud-igo-w14-original
3. 24awg SS wire tripple rapped 8 inches long .49 ohm
4. Cloutank m4 replacement glass https://m.fasttech.com/products/0/10010282/3383600-authentic-cloupor-cloutank-m4-replacement-glass
5. 3/4" screen
6. Arizer air glass stem
7. O-rings

So all I had to do was drill a 1" hole an inch deep, then the rest of the way a 3/4" hole in the hardwood. And the coil, I made into a tornado style ( 6 raps gradually increasing in diameter) so it would fill the entire cloutank glass.

All I can say is DAMN SON! This kicks like a mule. But there is room for improvement. I need some silicone o-rings in-between the cloutank glass and the hardwood. I also should cure this wood with some linseed oil. But otherwise I feel like the efficiency is great.

I run this between 440f and 500f and the ss316 mode on my cuboid @ 60w. Man do I get clouds, I mean I have to take it out and check every hit in disbelief that I'm not burning anything. Arizer was instantly retired.

Kinda feeling like this thread has inspired so many designs that we should create a new thread, but what ever.

I have a couple random question too how do I get my photos to show up here? Here is the link to my album for now

http://imgur.com/a/vsplt

<iframe class='imgur-album' width='100%' height='550' frameborder='0' src='http://imgur.com/a/vsplt/embed'></iframe>

And does anyone know or think arizer batteries would be fine in a cuboid? I have researched it, and they are high drain, 10amp continuous discharge batteries, so there should be no reason they shouldn't.

iframe>
 

Gator

Active Member
Nvm, disregard that question about the adding of images... That was easily figured out lol

Also the arizer batteries work great in the cuboid. Great battery life so far, using it for an hour and a half now and they are above half still!
 
Gator,

StonerSloth

cui bono?
Looking good @Gator!

I have started work on adapting some Solo stems to both my Bulli and Kayfun heating chambers - just using silicone tubing for now - and it is working pretty well but the heat is spotty. I think the bowl is a little too wide for the heating elements I'm using. I'm having more luck with an underdog stem (10mm ID bowl vs 11.5mm ID bowl on the Solo stem) which cooks more evenly than the solo stem.

Still my best results through all of this experimentation are both of my four-hole Bulli configurations:
  • the original Pipes Bulli TM setup with the packed upper stainless chamber + drip tip adapter. Probably the best portable on-demand setup you could ask for.
  • the empty Bulli oven + underdog stem combo, which works upright or upside down
I think @Pipes had it right from the beginning lol
 

E0x

Well-Known Member
hello guys , jim-bob at FC irc channel past me this video that maybe you guys can find interesting:

 
E0x,

StonerSloth

cui bono?
hello guys , jim-bob at FC irc channel past me this video that maybe you guys can find interesting:


Pretty cool. $180 !!! I don't see the point when there are a ton of good vapes around that price point ??? It's hard to tell from the video but the performance doesn't look that impressive. You can buy 17 Kayfun Mini clones for that much :razz:
 

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
********MOD ALERT!!!**********
After much pondering a way to attach a stir stick some how. I came up with this.
Only works with my Phoenix E-Solid Atomizer which I had already removed the inner parts and drill out a bit. Found a long ss darning pin. Bent it to fit the upper top and extend down through the screen and into the herb chamber.
I can now give a stir without opening the chamber. Makes life much easier.

20160305_073914-1_zpsgkc71bar.jpg


Started with bending the loop side first.

20160305_072803-1_zpsa1dp8vxs.jpg


Then determined the needed length, cut and bent 90 degrees.

20160305_073344-1_zpszjvgcq5g.jpg


Made a hole in the center of the screen.

20160305_073506_001-1_zps1wgormmw.jpg


Pulled the stir arm through to install the screen. Then pushed it back into the top where it wedges tight.

20160305_073721-1_zps8brirmzm.jpg
20160305_073932_001-1_zpshb8cbttu.jpg


So just twisting the upper portion rotates the stir arm. Can unscrew completely and turn to even clear the screen off. Life is good!!!
:tup::nod:
 

enjiatt

Well-Known Member
@Pipes
I like the find. That should really help out some people. I currently blow in and out of the firewood capsule to stir the herb but it does make it a little dirty in the chamber.

@Gator insulate around that glass with a metal tube or a piece of foil wrapped around it to save some heat. I like that coil setup. I feel like a tripple wrap would be close to a 19 or 20 gauge wire. You may get more consistent performance from a thicker wire if you feel size is what you want.

@StonerSloth @Pipes @E0x @xenodius @donnyp @Gator

2 things

1. I ordered a bulli but I doubt I'll be able to fit that 20 gauge wire in the bulli. Anybody know the bulli screw thread sizes. If i can get a hex screw and a washer

2. Do any of you have a regulated mod that is based on the Evolv chip. This would be any of the DNA mod or the YIHI 350 chip?

I noticed that my single battery mod "EVIC mini" was pulsing just enough for my vapor not to be super consistent. Its much more consistent with my RX200 even when I turn it down to 50w or 60w. But even the RX200 it can still pulse a lot.

I know that the DNA Evolv chips use a straight DC-DC current that allows straight continuous power rather than pulsed power (PWM). Im wondering if this would make it an ideal heat source.

(ok that is all the important stuff)


Convection vapes

(cloud evo vape)
Probably purest air path besides elb.
Heating element heats glass.
Most available heat
dont really need to stir because of elb
best vapor
not portable
This would take too much power for us and way too much heat for our devices.
But if we made something like the BUDTOASTER then it could be possible
$350

(Log vapes)
heating element is ceramic block.
ceramic deemed safe in vape community
Takes longer to heat
Once heated works well
thick vapor
not actually portable (not very easily)
Great for glass pieces.
$160-$200

(Firewood 3 vape)
Nichrome coil inside glass tube. All encased in metal sleeve.
not a "safe" airpath but seems to be vape community friendly
20-30 heat up time
portable
need certain draw technique to get vapor
Heating is quicker than log vape.
Thick vapor but not thick as log. But still good
constant sessions get hot
$145-$165

(Grasshopper)
Brass or stainless coil?? (not really sure)
Easily Most pleasing to the eye
portable
5 second heat up time
easy draw technique
constant sessions get hot on mouth
Thick vapor probably as good as the log
$150-$200

(DIY 510 Dry Herb Atomizer)
At 100w on my rx200 Ill get vapor in literally 6 seconds (20 gauge .42 ohms ss316L)
not a "safe" airpath but is essentially not different from firewood
Draw technique isn't difficult because so much heat is available.
Can get through a bowl super quick!!!
Thick vapor close to or at log level. portable
cheap mod = not as good vaping experience. still better then most portables
Doubles as Ecig vape
easy to fix and easy to modify
constant sessions get hot
id say $70 to $180 depending on Mod
Everything has its pros and cons


I personally believe we have "one of" the best "portable" vapes on the market.

I honestly thing the EVIC Mini is good if you are ok with the .50 to .60 range with 22-24 gauge wire. But even with 22 gauge I still get pulsing which is annoying. I just think that single battery mods dont provide consistent enough power for the heat needed for this application with lower gauge wire.

Think about it like this.
1. Without pulsing
I press the button and take about 1.5 to 2 seconds to reach temp (this is at 100w) and right when I inhale it is vapor after the chamber heats up for about 2-3 seconds . from then on I keep inhaling after the heat up and it is vapor the entire time.

2. With pulsing
I press the button and as i'm inhaling the first two seconds is vapor. Then it dies down for 2 seconds with me just in air sucking air then it will build back up for like 4 straight seconds. It isn't as annoying as im explaining but it can get old just sucking air for no reason.

This can be fixed a lot if you turn the wattage down to like 30w or 40w and it still works but it kills the ramp up time and if you run 20 gauge or lower like me then 30w wont even fire the coil lol.

I have a IPV5 coming and i'm hoping that it helps a little bit with the pulsing. It is suppose to me more accurate then the Joytech chips.
I love the fact that the IPV5 has a lockable resistance that allows you to set a custom resistance. So annoyingly finicky with the EVIC and the RX200 to switch attys.

This way I can just remember what resistance my attys are at.

Also it has 5 different temperature presets. I will probably set each one of my attys to a certain temperature but always keep the resistance the same. for instance if I have a .42 coil a .40 coil and a .38 coil and I always keep the resistance set to .42 then the M1 preset would be 480F the M2 would be 510F and the M3 would be 450F and they would all theoretically get the same vaping experience.

Right now I've stepped away from the bubbler and using the atomizer as a portable and it's crazy how quick you can get vapor!!!!! This allows you to feel how fast you can draw or
What helps is Good air flow like @StonerSloth said but you cant draw too quickly depending on how large your coil is. Oh and if you actually grind your herb correctly (fine grind) you will not have to stir as much. I just blow in and out of the firewood stem to stir.

Im really liking my 20 gauge right now but 18 may be my sweet spot. Im not sure yet. 18 and 20 gauge isnt super consistent with evic mini. But I can draw at a pretty good speed with a 20 gauge coil and I think the 18 can put it right over the edge. Just takes a lot of powerWould only work for the kayfun 3.1 bottom style deck though. EDIT: (honestly if you have enough herb in the chamber the clouds and vapor on 20 gauge is great )


I'm using a .42 ohm ss 316L 20 gauge coil.
current consistent setup. of course @Pipes pretty much had it right from the beginning. I prefer my firewood capsules for now until the bulli arrives. May have to switch to solo stem or the e-nano gong.

This setup was about 3/4 battery left after 8 different bowls on the rx200

TmrJuzX.jpg

OGuuZVn.jpg

68xOZx1.jpg

V3ow5JF.jpg

kQhAmol.jpg

vzaXQlY.jpg
 
Last edited:

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Excellent post!! :clap:
About your power observations. I'm thinking the battery ratings have a lot to do with the pulsing you are talking about. I notice the same when my battery is getting old or under 1/2 full. If fact I have my doubts about any single cell mod will ever hit their advertised power out. A 2 cell unit only takes 1/2 the current per cell, so can keep up better. All relative
though. I have some IMR cells on order to see if I can get better use out of the lower end of my battery charge. Personally, I like the small form factor and large display of the VCT Mini.

Your comparison on performance and pricing is interesting too. Haven't even reached for a different toy since having this puppy nailed down. It's just there ready to go all the time, whether a quick puff or a sit back movie time vape. Seems to do it all.

 

StonerSloth

cui bono?
1. I ordered a bulli but I doubt I'll be able to fit that 20 gauge wire in the bulli. Anybody know the bulli screw thread sizes. If i can get a hex screw and a washer

M2 X 3mm and M2 x 5mm

2. Do any of you have a regulated mod that is based on the Evolv chip. This would be any of the DNA mod or the YIHI 350 chip?

I noticed that my single battery mod "EVIC mini" was pulsing just enough for my vapor not to be super consistent. Its much more consistent with my RX200 even when I turn it down to 50w or 60w. But even the RX200 it can still pulse a lot.

I know that the DNA Evolv chips use a straight DC-DC current that allows straight continuous power rather than pulsed power (PWM). Im wondering if this would make it an ideal heat source.

Sorry, no help here. I only have a Joyetech eVic Mini and a Joyetech Cuboid which I'm assuming are the exact same hardware with just another battery slot, but I don't really have any idea.

I'm not sure I've experienced the pulsing?? Just the normal temperature regulation??? But I am only running 22 ga wire and only 0.31 ohm on my favorite setup and I only need about 50-60W. I don't even really allow for any heat up time, just push the button and draw - maybe one second but that's about it! Consistent vapor until the 10sec battery shutoff kills the party.

It is definitely possible to build these rigs with 99.9% safe airpaths. The only things of questionable nature in the airpath of my Bulli or Kayfun Mini builds would be the post insulation materials.

....

I recently bought a wood VapCap, thinking it would be the perfect pocket portable. That was a very short-lived affair and I'm right back to the Bulli.

I may experiment with heavier gauge wire and slightly different coil arrangements, but right now I am very satisfied with my setup...

....

My latest comparison has been between my two drilled Bulli bases - 4 x 5/64" airflow holes vs. 4 x 1/16" air flow holes.

With the 1/16" holes, it is pretty much impossible to overwhelm the element. You can pull as hard as you want and the vapor never thins out.

With the 5/64" holes, the load cooks more evenly, and you can control the density with your draw speed. If you pull too hard the vapor may thin out a bit, but this can be a good thing.
 
StonerSloth,
  • Like
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E0x

Well-Known Member
@Pipes
I like the find. That should really help out some people. I currently blow in and out of the firewood capsule to stir the herb but it does make it a little dirty in the chamber.

@Gator insulate around that glass with a metal tube or a piece of foil wrapped around it to save some heat. I like that coil setup. I feel like a tripple wrap would be close to a 19 or 20 gauge wire. You may get more consistent performance from a thicker wire if you feel size is what you want.

@StonerSloth @Pipes @E0x @xenodius @donnyp @Gator

2 things

1. I ordered a bulli but I doubt I'll be able to fit that 20 gauge wire in the bulli. Anybody know the bulli screw thread sizes. If i can get a hex screw and a washer

2. Do any of you have a regulated mod that is based on the Evolv chip. This would be any of the DNA mod or the YIHI 350 chip?

I noticed that my single battery mod "EVIC mini" was pulsing just enough for my vapor not to be super consistent. Its much more consistent with my RX200 even when I turn it down to 50w or 60w. But even the RX200 it can still pulse a lot.

I know that the DNA Evolv chips use a straight DC-DC current that allows straight continuous power rather than pulsed power (PWM). Im wondering if this would make it an ideal heat source.

(ok that is all the important stuff)


Convection vapes

(cloud evo vape)
Probably purest air path besides elb.
Heating element heats glass.
Most available heat
dont really need to stir because of elb
best vapor
not portable
This would take too much power for us and way too much heat for our devices.
But if we made something like the BUDTOASTER then it could be possible
$350

(Log vapes)
heating element is ceramic block.
ceramic deemed safe in vape community
Takes longer to heat
Once heated works well
thick vapor
not actually portable (not very easily)
Great for glass pieces.
$160-$200

(Firewood 3 vape)
Nichrome coil inside glass tube. All encased in metal sleeve.
not a "safe" airpath but seems to be vape community friendly
20-30 heat up time
portable
need certain draw technique to get vapor
Heating is quicker than log vape.
Thick vapor but not thick as log. But still good
constant sessions get hot
$145-$165

(Grasshopper)
Brass or stainless coil?? (not really sure)
Easily Most pleasing to the eye
portable
5 second heat up time
easy draw technique
constant sessions get hot on mouth
Thick vapor probably as good as the log
$150-$200

(DIY 510 Dry Herb Atomizer)
At 100w on my rx200 Ill get vapor in literally 6 seconds (20 gauge .42 ohms ss316L)
not a "safe" airpath but is essentially not different from firewood
Draw technique isn't difficult because so much heat is available.
Can get through a bowl super quick!!!
Thick vapor close to or at log level. portable
cheap mod = not as good vaping experience. still better then most portables
Doubles as Ecig vape
easy to fix and easy to modify
constant sessions get hot
id say $70 to $180 depending on Mod
Everything has its pros and cons


I personally believe we have "one of" the best "portable" vapes on the market.

I honestly thing the EVIC Mini is good if you are ok with the .50 to .60 range with 22-24 gauge wire. But even with 22 gauge I still get pulsing which is annoying. I just think that single battery mods dont provide consistent enough power for the heat needed for this application with lower gauge wire.

Think about it like this.
1. Without pulsing
I press the button and take about 1.5 to 2 seconds to reach temp (this is at 100w) and right when I inhale it is vapor after the chamber heats up for about 2-3 seconds . from then on I keep inhaling after the heat up and it is vapor the entire time.

2. With pulsing
I press the button and as i'm inhaling the first two seconds is vapor. Then it dies down for 2 seconds with me just in air sucking air then it will build back up for like 4 straight seconds. It isn't as annoying as im explaining but it can get old just sucking air for no reason.

This can be fixed a lot if you turn the wattage down to like 30w or 40w and it still works but it kills the ramp up time and if you run 20 gauge or lower like me then 30w wont even fire the coil lol.

I have a IPV5 coming and i'm hoping that it helps a little bit with the pulsing. It is suppose to me more accurate then the Joytech chips.
I love the fact that the IPV5 has a lockable resistance that allows you to set a custom resistance. So annoyingly finicky with the EVIC and the RX200 to switch attys.

This way I can just remember what resistance my attys are at.

Also it has 5 different temperature presets. I will probably set each one of my attys to a certain temperature but always keep the resistance the same. for instance if I have a .42 coil a .40 coil and a .38 coil and I always keep the resistance set to .42 then the M1 preset would be 480F the M2 would be 510F and the M3 would be 450F and they would all theoretically get the same vaping experience.

Right now I've stepped away from the bubbler and using the atomizer as a portable and it's crazy how quick you can get vapor!!!!! This allows you to feel how fast you can draw or
What helps is Good air flow like @StonerSloth said but you cant draw too quickly depending on how large your coil is. Oh and if you actually grind your herb correctly (fine grind) you will not have to stir as much. I just blow in and out of the firewood stem to stir.

Im really liking my 20 gauge right now but 18 may be my sweet spot. Im not sure yet. 18 and 20 gauge isnt super consistent with evic mini. But I can draw at a pretty good speed with a 20 gauge coil and I think the 18 can put it right over the edge. Just takes a lot of powerWould only work for the kayfun 3.1 bottom style deck though. EDIT: (honestly if you have enough herb in the chamber the clouds and vapor on 20 gauge is great )


I'm using a .42 ohm ss 316L 20 gauge coil.
current consistent setup. of course @Pipes pretty much had it right from the beginning. I prefer my firewood capsules for now until the bulli arrives. May have to switch to solo stem or the e-nano gong.

This setup was about 3/4 battery left after 8 different bowls on the rx200

TmrJuzX.jpg

OGuuZVn.jpg

68xOZx1.jpg

V3ow5JF.jpg

kQhAmol.jpg

vzaXQlY.jpg

i have access to a joyetech evic vtc mini and a Tesla nano 60w TC
not sure what chip is using the tesla
 
E0x,

xenodius

Member
Credit to Mike for this one, it's a goodie!

If you're actually using your Bulli on the go, without a glass stem or a waterpipe, try this; This tip is double-walled so it doesn't get hot on your lips, and you can mix an adjustable quantity of outside air in as well. This means lower airflow through the bowl... which means thicker vapor when it's up to temp... that is then mixed with cooler air right before you inhale. You get cooler hits relative to vapor thickness, and use less battery.

You can also slide a short section of 1/2" ID silicone tubing up and down over the base unit to restrict the draw if you want to fill your glass piece with some real milk.

In other news, after winding and testing around 50 different coils for friends, people on reddit, and myself... I have realized that the most important thing in all of these for good vapor production isn't heat transfer efficiency (e.g. how low you can set the temp and get vapor-- you can just turn the temp up) but how evenly it vapes the bowl. To that end, I wound this twisted 22ga coil with twice as many outer loops as inner loops, running on a double-stacked oven. It performs significantly better than any other coil I've wound, but my bowl is still lighter at the edges. I also realized that inconsistencies in hand-wound coils can actually help promote turbulent flow, I wound a visually uniform 20ga coil and compared to this one it absolutely sucked, very little vapor and the Bulli itself would get pretty hot. That laminar flow doesn't pull much heat from it. A slow draw helps it vape a bit more evenly too. I'm going to try Pipes glass stem mod next, I suspect that a narrower bowl might be the ticket to consistent one-hitting entire bowls... =):science: I actually realized I throw away a ton of almost-stems out at work all the time, so I might clean and test one before I buy a solo/enano stem. Maybe after cutting the tip off and fire polishing it, should only take a few minutes since they're so small and thin. The regular oven works awesome for big loads but I'd like something to fully extract tiny bowls for when I just don't need much.

Pipes, the Project looks promising. If you made something that vortexes the air in the heater so it runs through the whole bowl instead of just the center, or which can be stirred while firing, i would jump on that immediately!!
 

tepictoton

Well-Known Member
How about using halogen lights as heat source? I mean the batteries come from the flash light world, maybe that would give us an easier hear source? Also it might give us a wider heat base so to speak, heating the load more evenly?

Also, seeing the light bulb is surrounded by glass it might be easier to create a sealed vapor path?

What I imagine... Imagine a solo /air stem that is loaded from the top, then the button part is slided over a halogen light that is attached to a mod....

It seems like the coil and the amount of heat it gives of to the air is the limiting factor here?

Hop over to the Venus Apollo thread for some more info on how this might work.

I do remember seeing a flash light bulb that can be attached to a mod. Quite sure it was a led light...
 
tepictoton,
  • Like
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donnyp

Well-Known Member
How about using halogen lights as heat source? I mean the batteries come from the flash light world, maybe that would give us an easier hear source? Also it might give us a wider heat base so to speak, heating the load more evenly?

Also, seeing the light bulb is surrounded by glass it might be easier to create a sealed vapor path?

What I imagine... Imagine a solo /air stem that is loaded from the top, then the button part is slided over a halogen light that is attached to a mod....

It seems like the coil and the amount of heat it gives of to the air is the limiting factor here?

Hop over to the Venus Apollo thread for some more info on how this might work.

I do remember seeing a flash light bulb that can be attached to a mod. Quite sure it was a led light...

I was thinking about that after I saw the Apollo. The fears I have with a lightbulb are things like, how durable is it/whats it's lifespan like? Because wire coils are super cheap and easy to replace and last a very very long (infinite if treated properly?) And how much are these light bulbs? Also isn't the bulb just a heat exchanger, the outside heating air that's pulled past?

I feel with the halogen as a heating element youd almost be better making something with a potentiometer, 2 18650s, and a mofset and just keep it super simple, heat changes by turning up or down power, etc. Basically that a mod would be super overkill for this, and depending what material the filament is made from maybe not even easily controllable with a mod. IDK just thinking out loud now kind of.

However, taking the idea of a light and encasing a coil entirely in a bulb of glass for heat exchange may work with lots of tinkering to get enough heat to transfer, but then youd be able to construct an airpath that is deemed 100% safe
 
donnyp,

StonerSloth

cui bono?
The regular oven works awesome for big loads but I'd like something to fully extract tiny bowls for when I just don't need much.

Glass Underdog stem + empty Bulli chamber is a match made in heaven.

I love your coil design with more wraps on the outer coil than the inner! I think this could help reduce the hot spot in the center of the oven for sure.


How about using halogen lights as heat source? I mean the batteries come from the flash light world, maybe that would give us an easier hear source? Also it might give us a wider heat base so to speak, heating the load more evenly?

Also, seeing the light bulb is surrounded by glass it might be easier to create a sealed vapor path?

What I imagine... Imagine a solo /air stem that is loaded from the top, then the button part is slided over a halogen light that is attached to a mod....

It seems like the coil and the amount of heat it gives of to the air is the limiting factor here?

Hop over to the Venus Apollo thread for some more info on how this might work.

I do remember seeing a flash light bulb that can be attached to a mod. Quite sure it was a led light...

I have been following the development of the Venus Apollo fairly closely and I am definitely thinking about picking one up! I'm not convinced that a halogen bulb would be a better fit for this application but I am definitely looking forward to someone trying it!!

I do not feel as though the heating coil is the limiting factor in these builds at all. You can fit a lot of coil in some of these atomizers and you have infinite options for coil size and shape. Building coils can be a bitch at first but once you have the hang of it they are easy enough and cheap!!! I'd also bet that any of these stainless atomizer setups would survive a serious drop. Maybe not the mod - but the atomizer definitely.

Also not sure how you'd handle temperature regulation without being able to monitor coil resistance??


I was thinking about that after I saw the Apollo. The fears I have with a lightbulb are things like, how durable is it/whats it's lifespan like? Because wire coils are super cheap and easy to replace and last a very very long (infinite if treated properly?) And how much are these light bulbs? Also isn't the bulb just a heat exchanger, the outside heating air that's pulled past?

I feel with the halogen as a heating element youd almost be better making something with a potentiometer, 2 18650s, and a mofset and just keep it super simple, heat changes by turning up or down power, etc. Basically that a mod would be super overkill for this, and depending what material the filament is made from maybe not even easily controllable with a mod. IDK just thinking out loud now kind of.

However, taking the idea of a light and encasing a coil entirely in a bulb of glass for heat exchange may work with lots of tinkering to get enough heat to transfer, but then youd be able to construct an airpath that is deemed 100% safe

The amount of surface area of the coil is an important aspect of performance. I think enclosing the coil in a glass bulb would be a problem. Air flowing directly over the coil is what we want.
 

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
I have one and don't like. Gets too hot and not keen on the angle thing going on.
If you do a google search for mega to 510 adapter and look at images, you will find a couple others. Not a lot around but out there. I actually preferred the black delrin ones. Cheapest too.
 

StonerSloth

cui bono?
I have one and don't like. Gets too hot and not keen on the angle thing going on.
If you do a google search for mega to 510 adapter and look at images, you will find a couple others. Not a lot around but out there. I actually preferred the black delrin ones. Cheapest too.

I have tried the Atlantis 2 one but it has this strange double o-ring groove that makes finding an o-ring setup tricky... I have a weird combination of US and metric o-rings (one small and one large) and it fits in the Bulli chamber pretty well but not as sturdy as the Delrin adapters.

If I had a lathe (like our friend @Pipes) the bump in the o-ring groove could be eliminated in one second!!
 
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