@Pipes
I like the find. That should really help out some people. I currently blow in and out of the firewood capsule to stir the herb but it does make it a little dirty in the chamber.
@Gator insulate around that glass with a metal tube or a piece of foil wrapped around it to save some heat. I like that coil setup. I feel like a tripple wrap would be close to a 19 or 20 gauge wire. You may get more consistent performance from a thicker wire if you feel size is what you want.
@StonerSloth @Pipes @E0x @xenodius @donnyp @Gator
2 things
1. I ordered a bulli but I doubt I'll be able to fit that 20 gauge wire in the bulli. Anybody know the bulli screw thread sizes. If i can get a hex screw and a washer
2. Do any of you have a regulated mod that is based on the Evolv chip. This would be any of the DNA mod or the YIHI 350 chip?
I noticed that my single battery mod "EVIC mini" was pulsing just enough for my vapor not to be super consistent. Its much more consistent with my RX200 even when I turn it down to 50w or 60w. But even the RX200 it can still pulse a lot.
I know that the DNA Evolv chips use a straight DC-DC current that allows straight continuous power rather than pulsed power (PWM). Im wondering if this would make it an ideal heat source.
(ok that is all the important stuff)
Convection vapes
(
cloud evo vape)
Probably purest air path besides elb.
Heating element heats glass.
Most available heat
dont really need to stir because of elb
best vapor
not portable
This would take too much power for us and way too much heat for our devices.
But if we made something like the BUDTOASTER then it could be possible
$350
(
Log vapes)
heating element is ceramic block.
ceramic deemed safe in vape community
Takes longer to heat
Once heated works well
thick vapor
not actually portable (not very easily)
Great for glass pieces.
$160-$200
(
Firewood 3 vape)
Nichrome coil inside glass tube. All encased in metal sleeve.
not a "safe" airpath but seems to be vape community friendly
20-30 heat up time
portable
need certain draw technique to get vapor
Heating is quicker than log vape.
Thick vapor but not thick as log. But still good
constant sessions get hot
$145-$165
(
Grasshopper)
Brass or stainless coil?? (not really sure)
Easily Most pleasing to the eye
portable
5 second heat up time
easy draw technique
constant sessions get hot on mouth
Thick vapor probably as good as the log
$150-$200
(
DIY 510 Dry Herb Atomizer)
At 100w on my rx200 Ill get vapor in literally 6 seconds (20 gauge .42 ohms ss316L)
not a "safe" airpath but is essentially not different from firewood
Draw technique isn't difficult because so much heat is available.
Can get through a bowl super quick!!!
Thick vapor close to or at log level. portable
cheap mod = not as good vaping experience. still better then most portables
Doubles as Ecig vape
easy to fix and easy to modify
constant sessions get hot
id say $70 to $180 depending on Mod
Everything has its pros and cons
I personally believe we have "one of" the best "portable" vapes on the market.
I honestly thing the EVIC Mini is good if you are ok with the .50 to .60 range with 22-24 gauge wire. But even with 22 gauge I still get pulsing which is annoying. I just think that single battery mods dont provide consistent enough power for the heat needed for this application
with lower gauge wire.
Think about it like this.
1.
Without pulsing
I press the button and take about 1.5 to 2 seconds to reach temp (this is at 100w) and right when I inhale it is vapor after the chamber heats up for about 2-3 seconds . from then on I keep inhaling after the heat up and it is vapor the entire time.
2.
With pulsing
I press the button and as i'm inhaling the first two seconds is vapor. Then it dies down for 2 seconds with me just in air sucking air then it will build back up for like 4 straight seconds. It isn't as annoying as im explaining but it can get old just sucking air for no reason.
This can be fixed a lot if you turn the wattage down to like 30w or 40w and it still works but it kills the ramp up time and if you run 20 gauge or lower like me then 30w wont even fire the coil lol.
I have a IPV5 coming and i'm hoping that it helps a little bit with the pulsing. It is suppose to me more accurate then the Joytech chips.
I love the fact that the IPV5 has a lockable resistance that allows you to set a custom resistance. So annoyingly finicky with the EVIC and the RX200 to switch attys.
This way I can just remember what resistance my attys are at.
Also it has 5 different temperature presets. I will probably set each one of my attys to a certain temperature but always keep the resistance the same. for instance if I have a .42 coil a .40 coil and a .38 coil and I always keep the resistance set to .42 then the M1 preset would be 480F the M2 would be 510F and the M3 would be 450F and they would all theoretically get the same vaping experience.
Right now I've stepped away from the bubbler and using the atomizer as a portable and it's crazy how quick you can get vapor!!!!! This allows you to feel how fast you can draw or
What helps is Good air flow like
@StonerSloth said but you cant draw too quickly depending on how large your coil is. Oh and if you actually grind your herb correctly (fine grind) you will not have to stir as much. I just blow in and out of the firewood stem to stir.
Im really liking my 20 gauge right now but 18 may be my sweet spot. Im not sure yet. 18 and 20 gauge isnt super consistent with evic mini. But I can draw at a pretty good speed with a 20 gauge coil and I think the 18 can put it right over the edge. Just takes a lot of powerWould only work for the kayfun 3.1 bottom style deck though. EDIT: (honestly if you have enough herb in the chamber the clouds and vapor on 20 gauge is great )
I'm using a .42 ohm ss 316L 20 gauge coil.
current consistent setup. of course
@Pipes pretty much had it right from the beginning. I prefer my firewood capsules for now until the bulli arrives. May have to switch to solo stem or the e-nano gong.
This setup was about 3/4 battery left after 8 different bowls on the rx200