Divine Tribe atty's

[divinetribe]

Just so you know, If anyone emails me with a claim that their unit went out at the setting that i recommend i will replace it. sometimes parts aren't built right, if a flood of people are starting to get back to me on breaking their pieces i would get in touch with Paul over at Sz crossing and ask him if he changed anything. Also the 40w TC eleaf does use 40w in TC mode, it does not let you control that, however if you look closely when it is set to 320°f you can see after the temp protection screen it is always pulsing the wattage at 4-10watts and no more.. if it ever goes into wattage mode by accident I have mine set to 12w just in case. I session with a lot of people and they are always pressing the wrong buttons even after i tell them ,, so having that set low in wattage mode is ideal. I have been looking for other batteries and testing them. I am open to suggestions, the reason i like this eleaf 40w TC is it's small, very light, the chip and battery all together are very reliable, its inexpensive and makes the donut perform. another thing is they can be charged over 2000 times in their lives, i charge my battery 1 to 2 x a week.

 

[fernand]

O, Matt, you such a beLEEver! Love ya!

Hopefully you'll spot any changes, substitutions, defects before us customers.

The way some "competing" units use an embedded heater wire like this

instead of a more uniform (deposited?) resistive material like yours

will hopefully never appear on your units.

 

[OF]

Hopefully you'll spot any changes, substitutions, defects before us customers.

The way some "competing" units use an embedded heater wire like this

instead of a more uniform (deposited?) resistive material like yours

will hopefully never appear on your units.

You've mentioned this before, thanks for the photos. Not much of a coil, nor as I understand it are such shapes a good idea. Stresses from expansion/contractions show up inside the bends where heat is highest and start stress cracks, further heating that spot. The loose, uniform coils as used in toasters, hair dryers, stove 'elements' and so on is traditional for a reason.

Worth avoiding IMO.

All in all looks like a cheap copy from someone who lacks the skills/facilities to do depositions? Hopefully DT will continue to do business with the vendor he's now using that does have this ability or some other qualified guy. I'm sure he understands the difference, now that he's alerted to look for it.

Thanks again for the photos.

OF

 

[SlinginPaint]

@OF @divinetribe I am having a constant issue with my Evic VTC Mini reverting to wattage mode. I have tried everything, locking the resistance, changing the PWR in TC mode, changing the Temp in TC mode... but it seems to always revert back after a 1-3 second draw, sometimes ever after just pressing the fire button for half a second.

Settings are currently:

TEMP: Ni - 245C
PWR: 11.4
Ohm: 1.76

I am so stumped. It seems to be getting worse. The first couple weeks I never had these issues???

EDIT: I decided to use my backup atomizer and its working like a charm... Could it be the resistance change that is causing problems for the 1st atomizer?

 

[elmoe420]

@OF @divinetribe I am having a constant issue with my Evic VTC Mini reverting to wattage mode. I have tried everything, locking the resistance, changing the PWR in TC mode, changing the Temp in TC mode... but it seems to always revert back after a 1-3 second draw, sometimes ever after just pressing the fire button for half a second.

Settings are currently:

TEMP: Ni - 245C
PWR: 11.4
Ohm: 1.76

I am so stumped. It seems to be getting worse. The first couple weeks I never had these issues???

EDIT: I decided to use my backup atomizer and its working like a charm... Could it be the resistance change that is causing problems for the 1st atomizer?

I believe your problem is the high resistance. Doesn't temp control only work for sub 1 ohm atomizers?

 

[SlinginPaint]

Thank you @elmoe420 now that you mention that I do remember reading that about TC. Is there a way to get the resistance to drop again, or am I just SOL do you think? I guess at 11w I am getting some pretty tasty clouds taking 3-4 seconds draws, but I miss not having to worry at all...

Is this how most of you are using these things after they rise past 1 Ohm?

 

[Steven]

Thank you @elmoe420 now that you mention that I do remember reading that about TC. Is there a way to get the resistance to drop again, or am I just SOL do you think? I guess at 11w I am getting some pretty tasty clouds taking 3-4 seconds draws, but I miss not having to worry at all...

Is this how most of you are using these things after they rise past 1 Ohm?

Have you tried to do a full clean down of the atty. Like let it soak in alcohol over night, shake out all the alcohol, fire off anything left, then do another soak in alcohol. Afterwards the donut should look almost new. Also use other cleaning techniques mentioned before on thread and on Matt's website. The next steps takes a bit of care. Remove the bottom contact piece at the very bottom. Here, you should see a clean chamber if cleaning was done properly. Here is also where you can see one of the leads being grounded by being a little bent over the white rubber bushing where the contact pin goes in. If the lead is not near the very bottom of the atty where the white bushing is then resistance may be a bit higher than it should. After cleaning and readjusting the lead, I've dropped resistant up to about 0.1. This will only work if your atty is not already damaged/somewhat shorted. Just be careful adjusting the lead because too rough and it will disconnect. Again this will only work if your leads are basically gunked up with reclaim. I'm not sure if this will work for you because I've never had a piece with that high of a resistance. But I have seen 0.86 resistances drop to 0.74

 

[Soflo]

Is there a v3 still in the works?

 

[Haywood]

@OF @divinetribe I am having a constant issue with my Evic VTC Mini reverting to wattage mode. I have tried everything, locking the resistance, changing the PWR in TC mode, changing the Temp in TC mode... but it seems to always revert back after a 1-3 second draw, sometimes ever after just pressing the fire button for half a second.

Settings are currently:

TEMP: Ni - 245C
PWR: 11.4
Ohm: 1.76

I am so stumped. It seems to be getting worse. The first couple weeks I never had these issues???

EDIT: I decided to use my backup atomizer and its working like a charm... Could it be the resistance change that is causing problems for the 1st atomizer?

One of three things has happened.

1) Half the donut is cracked and that's why the resistance has gone up so much.
2) One of the connections at the bottom of the donut has gone bad, and the wire is just touching it, not really connected to it.
3) One of the wires has a bad connection to the 510 connector.

You can sometimes fix #3 by taking the center connection of the 510 (on the bottom) out and visually checking things, making sure the wires aren't contaminated or pushed up and making a bad connection.

You can verify (but not fix) both #1 and #2. For #1, just put your mod in wattage mode, set it for 10 watts, and look at the (relatively clean, not-full-of-concentrate) donut as it heats up. Does one half glow or do both halves glow. For #2, fire it (same 10 watt, wattage mode) and then with something that won't melt or burn, push GENTLY down on the donut above where each of the wires connect while watching the resistance setting on your mod. If the resistance drops from 1.xΩ back down to 0.7Ω, it's a bad connection at the donut. (And yes, the mod won't likely go into TC mode with that high a resistance).

I've always wondered about two things. What is the insulating sleeve on the positive wire made of, and what kind of connection is used between the donut and the wires (solder?). I suppose this is a question for @divinetribe Matt...

 

[divinetribe]

One of three things has happened.

1) Half the donut is cracked and that's why the resistance has gone up so much.
2) One of the connections at the bottom of the donut has gone bad, and the wire is just touching it, not really connected to it.
3) One of the wires has a bad connection to the 510 connector.

You can sometimes fix #3 by taking the center connection of the 510 (on the bottom) out and visually checking things, making sure the wires aren't contaminated or pushed up and making a bad connection.

You can verify (but not fix) both #1 and #2. For #1, just put your mod in wattage mode, set it for 10 watts, and look at the (relatively clean, not-full-of-concentrate) donut as it heats up. Does one half glow or do both halves glow. For #2, fire it (same 10 watt, wattage mode) and then with something that won't melt or burn, push GENTLY down on the donut above where each of the wires connect while watching the resistance setting on your mod. If the resistance drops from 1.xΩ back down to 0.7Ω, it's a bad connection at the donut. (And yes, the mod won't likely go into TC mode with that high a resistance).

I've always wondered about two things. What is the insulating sleeve on the positive wire made of, and what kind of connection is used between the donut and the wires (solder?). I suppose this is a question for @divinetribe Matt...

I will forward this bottom quote to paul at SZ crossing to get him to tell me what it is.

 

[OF]

Gentle Friends,

I just got my iStick Pico......you're gonna want one I bet.....

That's it in the middle, the familiar TC 40W on the left and the eVic VTC Mini on the right. This unit programs in a very similar manner to the VTC Mini and Cuboid (essentially identical to each other) and also similar to their TC 100W, the differences being mostly how to enter things like operating mode. the 100 has an additional switch ("mode") for instance). I suspect the 'chip sets' might be the same for all?

I had some troubles programming it, either I've got a flaky unit or a strange software problem.......or a problem with the nut pushing the buttons. Simple things like inverting the display kept ending up in on mode instead. Or locking or unlocking the keys. I finally got it sorted out, hopefully a glitch I won't face again. It does work. And, since it's software upgradable, if it starts to mess with me again, the next step is to renew the software I guess. Just that threat seems to have convinced it to straighten up and vape right. It even gave me a couple of random "Device Too Hot" warnings when it was stone cold and not making vapor despite all my efforts........ We'll become better friends over time I hope.

And vape right it does! Just like the larger units, ramps the temperature up at the 12.0 Watts I set to the 390F setting I've selected. When loaded the atty takes about 6 cycles to reach 'protect', when dry maybe 2 or 3. IMO a useful 'load gauge'.

The unit is really not that much shorter, and it is a little wider, and it's only a bit over an ounce lighter than the VTC Mini but it's a LOT more handy IMO. Fits better in a shirt pocket, rides more comfortably in the hand due to being shorter and having rounded edges. You don't realize how awkward the sharp corners are until you hold one in each hand, at least I didn't. While I normally hold say the Mini with four fingers on the off side, the Pico 'lands' in my hand with my index finger over the top of the battery so that rather than having the entire atty 'sticking up out of my fist' it's only part of the MP. My finger comes up to the center of the cylindrical section on the MP, the base is completely covered from the far side. And that part could be (clean) glass.......

IMO this fixes the problems of the TC40W. In the process we got replaceable battery, useful temperature control (you can even enter target temperature in degrees F or C), smaller size and lower cost? The only negative I have right now is nobody seems to have cases for them (too new I guess).

Not for everyone, of course, but what is. I strongly suggest you consider one, I think you'll be pleased.

One of three things has happened.

1) Half the donut is cracked and that's why the resistance has gone up so much.
2) One of the connections at the bottom of the donut has gone bad, and the wire is just touching it, not really connected to it.
3) One of the wires has a bad connection to the 510 connector.

Spot on I think. It's a base issue almost surely. Since these mods will do VW to 3 Ohms typically but only 1.4 or 1.5 max in TC modes the default is to revert to VW. This is the basic problem with the DC Herb cart I think, it forces the mods into VW mode as a default.

Haywood is wise, listen to him. I recommend swapping in a known good base, I bet it fixes it?

Good luck with it.

I've always wondered about two things. What is the insulating sleeve on the positive wire made of, and what kind of connection is used between the donut and the wires (solder?). I suppose this is a question for @divinetribe Matt...

If you mean the clear tube over the lead, it's PTFE tube, common enough stuff.

The leads are almost certainly spot welded on, either electrically or sonically. Often a thin 'flag' or film of other metals is put between for compatibility. Not soldered for sure......

OF

 

[divinetribe]

what donut is made from direct from Paul at SZ crossing, i told him to get on here and read ... and he wrote this back..
[7:13:29 PM] Paul Xing: the sleeve is teflon
[7:13:40 PM] Paul Xing: the solder is pure silver
[7:14:27 PM] Paul Xing: 1) Half the donut is cracked and that's why the resistance has gone up so much.
2) One of the connections at the bottom of the donut has gone bad, and the wire is just touching it, not really connected to it.
3) One of the wires has a bad connection to the 510 connector.
[7:14:53 PM] Paul Xing: this is totally correct, you are expert

 

[fernand]

@OF you are a monster, sir. A MONSTER. That little pico ... Temptation ... and the white is SO classy! And here I though this was sexxxy enough ..

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

Hey everyone, want to introduce myself on this thread since I've been reading and lurking here for a while, benefiting from the info and experiences shared here, so I thought I should finally sign up and contribute what I can, right?

Here's some pics of my current fleet of TC box mods, all topped with the venerable v2.5 DT CDA (yay acronyms)

I've got the whole joyetech rainbow of Evic VTCs, a couple of cuboids, an eleaf pico just came last week (another on the way ) and the little copper box which I haven't seen anyone talking about here... just came out recently from a brand new vape company straight outta Shenzhen, the artery nugget, what a great name. This little mod works impressively well with TC for its tiny size. It's no match for the mighty evic, which has to be the best mod out there for the CDA, but handicapped for size, I think it will earn a place in the rotation.

And as you can see, I like to vape with a variety of bubblers, attachments, and full-size dab rigs adapted to the ceramic donut with a (too) elaborate system of glass, copper and brass elbows, vinyl tubes, and glass globes.

I've been buying vape gear from Matt going on 3 years now, all the way back to the v1 ceramic donut, and when we were all still vaping on crappy wick-and-wire skillets for concentrates. (yuck) I gotta say, from the point of view of the end-user, he is one of the best guys to deal with in the vape industry, especially considering he is just a fellow vape enthusiast with a few partners, friends and helpers, not a big company. And I appreciate how he is more in it to advance and perfect new products, and not just to make a quick buck.

Also, just gotta give it up and say thanks to guys like OF, haywood, steven, and anyone else I'm not mentioning, who contributes useful, objective, reliable and repeatable data and experiences from using and running experiments with their ceramic donuts. I've been using OF's 245 TCR values on all my joyetechs (and conveniently, on the new pico as well) and I think it's a worthwhile setting to use that gives you a little bit more range-of-control (380-420F for me) and accurate temp readings as opposed to using TC-Ni mode.

Well, I'm here now, so you may see me chime in and share my thoughts once in a while, so...yea... hi!

 

[OF]

Well, I'm here now, so you may see me chime in and share my thoughts once in a while, so...yea... hi!

Mighty impressive first post! Howdy, welcome to the fun. I'm quite sure, now that you've found us as it were, we'll be 'hearing' more from you. I certainly hope so. Personally, seeing your assortment of Mods makes me feel better about mine........not well, but better. Thanks for that.

You might want to check out:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/how-to-post-pictures.155/

for tips on your photo posting adventures. Since you seem to have some skill with photography, hopefully more photos will follow as well.

Thanks for joining in, plenty of room for good folks. Tell your friends.

OF

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

Thanks for the welcome, OF, your posts are among the most worthy of reading on this thread, IMO.

What do you mean you feel better seeing my collection. In the sense that you thought you had too many and were obsessed with box mods, until you saw my collection? Probably not even borderline obsessive. It's out of control almost. My friends help me out by purchasing my old mods that I'm trying to get rid of, which justifies me getting new ones. But the collection has grown nonetheless.

I pretty much have a mod with its dedicated atomizer, for different forms and strains of concentrates. Indica or sativa dominant, or CBD rich. co2, shatter, or crumble for the form. All my friends who I've introduced the DT 2.5 atomizer to are way sloppy with their use. But me, I don't want to put some sour diesel co2 oil over a donut that's loaded up with some girl scout cookie shatter that's partially vaped, nor do I want to force myself to finish that bowl or clean it to avoid mixing the flavors. Hence the proliferation of mods.

Went and edited that first pic to make it easier for you guys to see my workstation, or my "dab lab"

Thanks for the help with the pics

Are there any other good threads for related topics you guys would recommend? These forums are vast and intimidating to a newb

 

[SlinginPaint]

Thanks for all the help in diagnosing the atomizer. It turns out there was a hairline crack in the donut. Luckily I have the back-up. Luckily in learning how to diagnose the issue, I learned how to seat my backup's donut correctly (it was not sitting flat and would not vape evenly) CHEERS all!

For anyone wondering, you can set your M Values for Temp Control of the M1-M3 profiles by doing the following:

1. With VTC Mini OFF, press and hold Fire and Right button
2. Hold 'till you see the list of M Values pop up.
3. Use Left to scroll and right to select your M value
4. Use left and right buttons to adjust your M profile (OF suggestion is 245)
5. Turn on VTC Mini
6. Select profile to TCR M1-3 depending on which one you set with 245
7. Set Temp 390F and 10-12Watts depending on you preference.

FLAVOR TOWNNNN

 

[OF]

For anyone wondering, you can set your M Values for Temp Control of the M1-M3 profiles by doing the following:

1. With VTC Mini OFF, press and hold Fire and Right button
2. Hold 'till you see the list of M Values pop up.
3. Use Left to scroll and right to select your M value
4. Use left and right buttons to adjust your M profile (OF suggestion is 245)
5. Turn on VTC Mini
6. Select profile to TCR M1-3 depending on which one you set with 245
7. Set Temp 390F and 10-12Watts depending on you preference.

Good info, also available in the manual in case you're in the one percent that actually reads them.......

Another suggestion is as long as you're 'in there' putting a manual value in a strange table you'll probably forget hot to find, why not load all 3 "M" values? I load 245 in the middle and 10 or 20 counts more or less in the others. Like 255, 245, 235 or 265, 245, 225. This way if you think 'it's a little too cold' you can just use M3 instead of M2. I used this to 'fish out' values early on, but now use it to 'fine tune' things a bit. I think the bases need a bit more temperature as they get fouled, I'll sometimes shift to M3 when I probably should stop and clean the base.

I stole the idea from ESV.

I also find that while some carts will 'make temperature' at 10 Watts, not all will (some do but 'just barely', they take a very long time) and bases seem to take a little more power (say half a Watt) as they age? Since I'm confident the TC will work properly I usually go straight to 12 Watts (it might get there fast, but it doesn't slam it). One old base I'm running at 12.5 IIRC.

BTW I'm really liking this iStick Pico, even though it's giving me fits with the on/off function right now. 5 pushes shuts it off, but half a minute or so later it comes back to standby on it's own (so a single press 'wakes it up'). I assume I have a ghost in the code in this unit, if it was a common fault it would have been reported even though the mod seems to be 'brand new' as a model. I've got a second one (different color.......which is an excuse you might find useful?) in a week or so, then I'll be able to decide what to do. For now it's easy, my job is enjoying the sucker. I'm doing the best I can.......

BTW, yesterday I found a 'brand new' listing for cases on EBay. Wasn't there Monday or Tuesday when I looked before. So now I've got one coming as well. Better and better.

You really should consider the Pico over the Mini over the iStick TC40W as I see things. BTW, I found (on a lesser thread.......) more discussion to the effect 'Pico uses the eVic (VTC Mini) chip set'. There are minor changes (mostly to do with interface/menus) but I think the Mini, Cuboid, iStick Pico and iStick TC100W use this control (with 3 'M values' and ability to run VW and TC at the same time). Learning to use one gives you 90% of the others, maybe more. It's things like the above 'how to program M values' that differ model to model, for instance the TC100W has an extra key like the TC40W does but Pico and Mini don't?

OF

 

[Steven]

So I thought I would also share some little tips on working with the dt atty.

this is a very useful tool. I use this for cleaning a lot. The donut is usually not 100% in the center, giving more space between the donut and the cup wall at an area. This is the side I will tilt towards upside down while firing away to clean the donut using 10 w in Wattage mode. I don't pulse. I just keep recycling power. As I do this I use the needle to agitate the reclaim on the area with the bigger gap. If I do scrape, I scrap the ceramic cup, not the donut. The agitation will make the reclaim flow out and I use a q tip to wipe away before the reclaim reaches the seem where the inner cup meets the outer ceramic shell. It's ok if reclaim passes that threshold, but it would add another tedious step to cleaning. I agitate and wipe until the donut is basically white as new.

If reclaim dies flow pass that threshold, that means there will be reclaim inside the atty. To remove this, I flip the unit upside down, fire away and allow all the reclaim to flow to the top towards the seemline. Then I get a q tip soaking in alcohol and do light swirls around the seem, cleaning out that pooled reclaim. I can tell it works because I will go through 3 or 4 blacked q tips until the q tips won't absorb anymore

Also, as mentioned the donut usually leans towards a lead. I mark that side in relation to the outer side holes so I know where that side is when I take a hit. Then when taking hits I know to tilt an little away from the lower side so oil won't get pooled to that lowered side if hitting flat. Also I think as much as we try we all tilt a little. So why not tilt practically

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

What do y'all do to force the evic VTC mini to reset, to reliably give the "new/same coil" dialog? It seems to have a mind of its own, and I don't know if it's reliably remembering or getting confused, or what.

Fernand, I'm glad you mentioned this, because this has been a little annoying to me one some of my evics, but more frequently on one of my cuboids. I tend to keep the same coil on the same mod for long stretches, but the resistance can drift sometimes. Example: my gray cuboid properly reads around 0.70-0.72 for its deep bowl, but after i session with it, put it down and pick it up hours or days later, it tends to read as low as 0.66-0.68 with the same partially vaped donut load. Sometimes I click fire briefly and it reads its original resistance, but other times it stays low. At the lower ohms, I find I have to put the temps up at least 20-30F to compensate, and the vapor stream is not as steady.

Usually removing the re-screwing and firing the atty is enough to bring up the "new coil" selection option, but not always. I've found one trick to force the prompt: (sometimes)


Screw on another base or atomizer you have lying around that you know is off by at least 0.05 or more from the one you just used. If your 0.70 ohm is off, screw in a 0.81 if you have it. If you don't have the spare, or if they are all too close anyways, like 0.74, 0.77, etc, maybe you have one of those old crappy skillet atomizers lying around somewhere? And hopefully an ego adapter to screw it in, or maybe you have a sub-ohm tank for juice, screw that in, have your mod recognize it, then put the old donut back in and it should ask you "new coil?" when you try to fire. It should....


This would also be a good time to wipe of and clean the 510 threads of your mod and the 510 screw of the atomizer base. Dry qtip, wet qtip, alcohol qtip, and pre-moistened isopropyl wipes make that chore easy. Alot of my friends problems with the CDA on TC mods have been dirty threads throwing off the resistance reading and making vapor too cold or hot.

And of course, making sure your base is tightly screwed in helps get a proper, low reading. I've seen my resistances go up and down as much as 0.02-0.05 just from a loose quarter turn of the threads. That's enough to affect vape performance.

Maybe some common-sense habits that's already been discussed before, but just thought I'd bring this one back.

edit: I also think the resistance gets "confused" if you go from a 0.74 ohm base to a 0.77, it may think it's seeing the same atomizer. Large ambient temperature swings can also make the mod read base resistance off by a few hundredths, IME

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

I'm gonna go on a posting spree... a review!

My thoughts on the new eleaf pico... I've only been using my pink one for about a week now, just getting started with the silver one. Overall I would give it 4/5 on that scale, based on my early impressions.

What I like about the pico:

It makes pretty good quality vape with the CDA and lots of it quickly (im using 20w @ TCR 245, 380-400F) although I'd still give the evic mini and cuboid a slight but noticeable edge on overall vape quality

It looks pretty good and feels good in my hand despite the tiny size. (although not the buttons) The sparkly-ness on apparently all the colors is cool, but it would be nice if they offered more real colors rather than shades of gray

As mentioned, it allows TCR, has the standard Ni, Ti, SS modes we'd expect these days, plus firmware upgradeability. Although based on eleaf's track record, I wouldn't expect them to fulfill those possibilities?

Another plus is the 510 connector and metal area around it. It's rugged, and won't scratch or scuff easily if you remove and install alot of attys. Alot of mods have weak connector areas that wear quickly. I think this one will hold up with use better


What I don't like:

As hinted, the buttons. The main trigger feels flimsy and doesn't have much "travel" or "depression room", or.. it is very thin. My finger has slipped off the side of it many times in the middle of 10-second hits. Kind of annoying. It's too small. The + / - adjustment buttons are even worse, they are on the bottom of the mod. Not like those are as important as the trigger, but it feels awkward making those adjustments. I understand these are likely trade-offs made with the goal of maximum compactness, but these are some of the costs.

Also, the battery cylinder top, sticking out like a hump next to the 510 is kinda awkward as well. There's enough room to twist in a v2.5 base, just enough space for the DC herb atomizer, but for potentially larger threads (like, theoretically, the upcoming v3.0 ) you may not be able to screw in these attachments, or you may have to remove the battery first to give yourself space to twist in, then replace batteries. Annoying.

I also don't like the screen. It's tiny, sideways, and doesn't emphasize the best info. It measures base resistance pretty accurately (lower than my joyetechs usually) but it would be really nice and useful to see resistance change in real time during a puff. It does not, always shows base ohms.

It's annoying when it hits "protection" too because it hogs the whole screen. Can I at least see the watts flutter in real time while it tells me my coil is hotter than I want? The temp is the biggest number in the display too, but I'd rather see watts and ohms taking up more space, since that's a more reliable, "real" number.

On balance, the pico is a good mod, maybe not great. It's inexpensive, and to it's credit, alot of the downsides are due to the ever-decreasing size, which is an overall trend I like, so I give eleaf credit for making a pretty damn functional, adjustable 18650 TC mod with all the bells and whistles in an ever-smaller package.

And yo... OF...I'm sorry to hear you've had some of those stange issues with your Pico. I haven't had anything like that happen to my 2 picos so far. If it keeps up, or if you can't flash the software or fix it anyways, it's probably a defect you should send back? good luck with that man!

 

[WakeAndVape]

Where is the best place to buy one of these?

I have a Sigelei 75 w tc...assuming it will work properly?

 

[SlinginPaint]

Where is the best place to buy one of these?

I have a Sigelei 75 w tc...assuming it will work properly?

www.ineedhemp.com

 

[divinetribe]

http://ineedhemp.com/product/fcuserspecial3/

Where is the best place to buy one of these?

I have a Sigelei 75 w tc...assuming it will work properly?

Check out my fc special in my post

 

[Detonator]

Ok Now I got it right! Thanks #DivineTribe I had forgot my TC goes to auto mode and is in Jules not volts... But the main thing I did wrong before was not locking the Jules... er probly volts on yours... but now I got it right and it's hitting like a champ... 15J @ 300deg. F

Getting some great flavor with this Slymer Shatter, new strain for me I really like it.... so limey , so juicy!

Not exactly sure if this is de-waxed but I know it's good when I can do this with my fingers...