Divine Tribe atty's

[divinetribe]

So I have a question about 18650 cells, if anyone here knows a thing or two. When I got my eVic-VTC Mini I also ordered two 18650s from Divine Tribe. Tucker was the one on the email and he said that the Imren 3200 mAh 40Amp cells would do the trick. I received them, they're working well. A couple of my friends use the high powered e-Cigarette vaporizers with high-watt multiple cell mods, and when they saw which cells I had they both started laughing and saying I need to send them back and get some Sonys (the ones they recommend are also the most highly counterfeited cell, the vtc6 [also not being manufactured any longer afaik]). I started looking it up though, and from what I can tell their knowledge of it comes from people setting those high watt mods on fire accidentally. Essentially the 4 or so Amps the DT pushes when you hit it couldn't possibly blow up a 40 Amp cell? At .7 ohms? Are Imrens really plagued by rewrap and counterfeit problems? I can't seem to find much solid info, just arguments.



And you folks must be working with runnier materials than I. I generally just pick up a little shard between thumb and index finger and make a small snake or wad out of it and drop it in the atomizer. With legalization in effect here the methods of extraction generally are better and customers aren't settling for less than highly stable Shatter. If I do come across the odd Budder or Crumble, I tend to use a dual end stainless steel sculpting pick (clay, wax, soap carving). Shovel for Crumble, spear for Budder, then warm the tool above the wax with a lighter and wipe the blade into a silicon as soon as it melts a little

Those IMRENS ARE 100% I love them but I feel there are better batteries, these do last way longer than my authentic vtc4s I try to test batteries alot and these imren 3200mah seem to last me the longest..
but this dud here is a pro... see link
https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic...s/imren_green_40a_3200mah_18650_bench_retest/

based on this guys results :

 

[Steven]

@OF. I also use safety pins as a applicator tool as well when I'm on the go. I don't use anything to heat it up though. I used to do that when I first got the dt atty but found it to be too much work. Most of my waxes are pretty stable or dewaxed so I just ever so slightly stab the wax ball and simply apply it to the center if the donut. Nothing sticks to the pin. Was hard at first but now I can do it while driving

To be precise, first I prick the wax ball so it barely sticks on the pin. Second, I place the ball on a far side of the donut close to a wall but not touching it. Third, I roll the ball so that the pin will land on the opposite side of the donut, thus rolling the wax ball into the center hole. Last, but nit all the time, I remove the pin in an upward twirling motion. I only do the last step on not so stable waxes. If done correctly, nothing ever sticks to the pin and even if there is something, it's ridiculously small.

 

[skyler544]

@divinetribe this is wonderful, thanks. I saw speculation about amp ratings on labels being mostly bunk, but having a chart really puts it into perspective. I can see how people can easily vent these imrens with a massive atomizer and high wattage, but from the looks of it my suspicions are confirmed and it isn't really possible to push these batteries to that point while not blowing the DT first

 

[OF]

@divinetribe this is wonderful, thanks. I saw speculation about amp ratings on labels being mostly bunk, but having a chart really puts it into perspective. I can see how people can easily vent these imrens with a massive atomizer and high wattage, but from the looks of it my suspicions are confirmed and it isn't really possible to push these batteries to that point while not blowing the DT first

I'm not so sure I'd rush into thinking the maximum current (or any other) ratings on 'name brand' batteries aren't accurate. Look into the details first? There are generally important conditions on the rated claims that guys like to ignore (or maybe don't understand). Rest assured these ratings are guarantees, if they were false legitimate makers would be happy to point out their competitors products shortcomings?

Such ratings are, for the most part, completely irreverent to us. The 'bunk' part is thinking we ever use anything like that much current. That's a whole different set of users. We never 'need' 75 Watts and more. 12 is more our speed. !2 Watts from a four Volt source is 3 Amps, not 40. We need about 3 Amps (4 when the battery is flat) is all we care about really. Anything more than that is a waste, literally. To get those huge numbers compromises we might have preferred (like higher capacity) were sacrificed.

We're running 'smart mods' here, which only use as much current as they need to do the job we ask them to. How much more the battery could have done matters not as they say.

For instance, the battery I'm using right now is the INR18650, not normally sold to end users like us (it's an OEM part meant to build battery packs for power tools with):
http://www.bto.pl/pdf/06248/INR18650-25R.pdf

I have no doubt at all that it meets it's claims at 20 Amps, I even treid one at that level for fun, but know I never use more than about 4 of that potential. And remember, for the most part maximum current ability is a continuous rating limited by heat build up (mostly driven from Ir being too high). In the sort of intermittent (pulse) duty we use they can typically do much more, one of the reasons the electric car guys love them.

It's like driving a Jag sedan that 'goes to 160' but never taking it over 70? How important is it if it tops out at 158 or 172 MPH? They go plenty fast to get a ticket, something I've personally proved experimentally.

OF

 

[Sanitas]

@divinetribe , What are the chances of a 2.7 style in pyrex?

 

[OF]

@divinetribe , What are the chances of a 2.7 style in pyrex?

I'd say about zero. Precision molded glass parts don't work out well, the material is too soft when it comes out and 'sags' out of shape. Ceramic, OTOH, is typically molded as 'slip' (think 'clay soup') poured into plaster molds which draw out the moisture. Parts come out dry and hard enough to handle. They are then 'low fired', like clay pots. Then they may be glazed (basically coated with ground glass) and then 'high fired' (hot enough to melt the glass and fuse it to the surface) to become the 'dish like' material we know. Here the 'low fired' ceramic holds the shape of the glass coating, an advantage an all glass part doesn't have.

Molding the glass spacers for the Ascent (a much less demanding part) has proven very difficult to do for reasonable costs. A 2.7 cover, even in less demanding glass types than Pyrex, I don't think is really possible without machining.....not that it wouldn't be cool.

OF

 

[zikzak]

For instance, the battery I'm using right now is the INR18650, not normally sold to end users like us (it's an OEM part meant to build battery packs for power tools with):
http://www.bto.pl/pdf/06248/INR18650-25R.pdf

Oddly enough, you can find INR18650 batteries inside of Monoprice's house brand of portable battery pack's (with led light, micro usb, normal junk). Don't ask me why I know this, but I do first hand lol.

If you score their smaller two battery pack on sale for $6-7 and a free shipping promo...well, you can start to see that batteries can get very cheap if you don't mind a *bit* of dis assembly.

I'm a battery whore on a small scale, just an example of my current lineup..

VTC5 and the big bad IMREN discussed prior..I pair these in rotation w/ my Wismec Presa 75w. I do switch to e-cig duty with .15 nickle atty's for a Uwell Crown tank. OF is dead on, we hardly utilize these batteries when paired with the DT, it's more about how long they last as Matt eluded to up top, rather than peak or cont output.

 

[OF]

Oddly enough, you can find INR18650 batteries inside of Monoprice's house brand of portable battery pack's (with led light, micro usb, normal junk). Don't ask me why I know this, but I do first hand lol.

If you score their smaller two battery pack on sale for $6-7 and a free shipping promo...well, you can start to see that batteries can get very cheap if you don't mind a *bit* of dis assembly.

Cool. Be careful, INR18650 is only part of the number the "-25R" part counts too, and may or may not be significant to us.

OF

 

[zikzak]

Cool. Be careful, INR18650 is only part of the number the "-25R" part counts too, and may or may not be significant to us.

OF

I'll make sure to check those out when I get home and report back. They're honestly far down on my list of go to's anymore, they served me great in my IPV D2 from December through Feb-- see above of my edited post of what's in use for me currently.

 

[OF]

Gentle Friends,

Good news, another potentially useful Mod for us!

So I ordered the iStick TC100W (not to be confused with the TC40W we already know about). While the 40W version is tiny (a plus IMO) and can run either TC (although we have to convert the requested temperature to match the metals) or VW mode (to the 12 Watts or so we want) it cannot do both. It also has a non removable battery.

That's been reversed it seems with this model. It has more TC metals and three programable "M" values like the more useful Joytech VTC Mini. In fact I wonder if they don't share the same 'chip set' (although they program slightly differently). Holding the fire and down buttons when it's shut off displays the battery voltage same as the VTC even. The Cuboid is also on that list, basically a 150W dual 18650 Mini.

Anyway, from preliminary testing it looks like a winner to me. I entered '245' for the M2 value, set power to 12 Watts, TCR to M2, and temperature target to 390F. Great results, just like with the Mini and Cuboid.

The form factor is different, I think I might prefer the 'heft' of the Cuboid, but that might be because I'm not yet used to the 'squeeze it to fire' feature (no 'go' button per se). The two 18650s are not in series like the Cuboid but in parallel. Which means we only need one for the low power levels we need opening up the possibility of carrying more wax, loading tool, rag, whatever in the other side????

BTW there's also a 'Pico' version. Much smaller, single cell version of the same thing? Most cool if so. I've got mine on order........

Fun stuff.

OF

 

[zikzak]

^ That's awesome to hear... it did take a day or two of primary use of my Presa to get used to the housing as a button rather than a traditional button 'go' button method on my ipv d2. However, from here on, as long as the trigger mechanism holds up for months to come, I doubt I could see myself ever going back to the old way of triggering the 'go'. Even better is to hear it's not just Wismec building this in and the other cost efficient for the features you get brand eLeaf/iStick is as well for their bigger and hopefully single cell model. Keep us posted for sure!

 

[Bad Ocelot]

I pre-ordered an eleaf pico a while back. It's purportedly on the slow boat from china now. Curious to try it out as well. Has anyone else used the Tesla Nano 40w? I've been using my DT 2.5 on that for a while now with great results set to nickel & 240F. I haven't tested what temp it's actually running with a thermocouple or anything but the flavor is great & not at all reclaimy despite not having cleaned the atty at all yet, ha.

 

[OF]

Has anyone else used the Tesla Nano 40w? I've been using my DT 2.5 on that for a while now with great results set to nickel & 240F.

I haven't tried one, but assuming it's default Ni setting is the same as on other Mods (like iStick TC40W, Invader, VTC Mini, Cuboid, etc), which I think is also called "Nickle 200", a temperature setting of 230F or so is on par with what we've seen in those other Mods. However, if (like the iStick TC40W) you cannot turn the power down to about 12 Watts (like on the Mini, Cuboid, and iStick TC100W (which I'm currently enjoying testing.....)) you're hammering it with the full 40 Watts available (as the TC40W does), not at all a good thing to be doing?

Can you also set the power when in TC mode?

TIA

OF

 

[Bad Ocelot]

Oh yeah, forgot to mention I was setting it between 9.5-10.5w. & the calculated temperature never quite reaches 240 at that wattage.

 

[OF]

Oh yeah, forgot to mention I was setting it between 9.5-10.5w. & the calculated temperature never quite reaches 240 at that wattage.

Thanks. How sure are you about that model number? I can find "Tesla Nano" in 60 and 100 W, but not 40? Interesting mod, internal battery, although larger than many?

OF

 

[fernand]

After 5+ years of vaping I don't believe battery labels. A lot of generic stuff is made and labeled/rewrapped depending on the current fads and appetites. Americans go crazy for mAh? give 'em 4000 mAh labels. They say they like Sonys? that's easily printed. So each purchase is often a new spin of the wheel.

If I buy a specific battery, and I like it, by the time I go to buy a box, they will look the same but might act very differently. Heaven forbid I post some positive reports, that will bring the hyenas running with their batteries relabeled as the favorites. It's like the uncertainty principle. They change faster than you can get a good look at them.

I mean if you were selling generic batteries in this unregulated market, why would you label your batteries as a loser brand? Go for the gold, label them as batteries that people want. It's not exactly like there's anyone for us to complain to. Ever seen the AW factory?

 

[Steven]

Holy frijoles. I just broke 2 brand new dt attys in a row within 30 min. This is so strange and has never happened to me before. So I put on a new base and took 3 hits. I thought it was really strange that the resistance was at 0.65 but didn't mind to much because I was getting good hits. Once the donut got a but direct the ocd in me wanted to clean it. So I dud the usual by dipping a q tip in rubbing alcohol and just do a couple swipes around the inner walls of the bowl. I've done this please ty of times no problem. However when I did it to this one, I felt the inner cup move with the qtip. Sure enough, I got no atomizer error. Exactly the same thing happened to the next one I put it. Except the second one had resistance of 0.73. I am going to check for stability of the inner cup on new attys that I get from now on I'm so bummed out. Now I have no dt attys at all. No more back ups

 

[clearlight]

Holy frijoles. I just broke 2 brand new dt attys in a row within 30 min. This is so strange and has never happened to me before. So I put on a new base and took 3 hits. I thought it was really strange that the resistance was at 0.65 but didn't mind to much because I was getting good hits. Once the donut got a but direct the ocd in me wanted to clean it. So I dud the usual by dipping a q tip in rubbing alcohol and just do a couple swipes around the inner walls of the bowl. I've done this please ty of times no problem. However when I did it to this one, I felt the inner cup move with the qtip. Sure enough, I got no atomizer error. Exactly the same thing happened to the next one I put it. Except the second one had resistance of 0.73. I am going to check for stability of the inner cup on new attys that I get from now on I'm so bummed out. Now I have no dt attys at all. No more back ups

Besides accidentally leaving a mod at W mode and really high Watts, I've only ever broken any donuts by cleaning them in such a way that breaks the leads to the donut. Twisting too hard in there w a wipe or paper towel will twist the donut in it's seat and break the leads.

 

[clearlight]

I haven't tried one, but assuming it's default Ni setting is the same as on other Mods (like iStick TC40W, Invader, VTC Mini, Cuboid, etc), which I think is also called "Nickle 200", a temperature setting of 230F or so is on par with what we've seen in those other Mods. However, if (like the iStick TC40W) you cannot turn the power down to about 12 Watts (like on the Mini, Cuboid, and iStick TC100W (which I'm currently enjoying testing.....)) you're hammering it with the full 40 Watts available (as the TC40W does), not at all a good thing to be doing?

Can you also set the power when in TC mode?

TIA

OF

So… I'm not a huge poster on here, but felt I needed to interject something. Bc I keep hearing this thing about the iStick 40W TC only does TC at 40W, so it's blasting at 40W the whole time.

This is simply not true IME and there are two ways to prove this to yourself. One is to either look in the mirror while you hit it— so you can watch the real-time W readout in the bottom left of the screen. The second is to hit your CDA at 40W in W mode, attempting to pulse it at about the same pace as you see in TC mode. You will crack the donut before even completing the very first hit.

I and several others who have accidentally left our device in W mode at or near 40W can attest to this. Near 30W, you can pulse a couple times and *not* break the donut if you notice it fast enough. Like "Woah this bad boy is hitting hard right now… What's the deal? Oh crap it's still in W mode." the CDAs can survive a couple pulses at 30W, but at 40W if you hold down for even one complete second, the donut cracks.

For these reasons I reject out of hand any claims that the iStick 40W TC only performs TC at 40W. You can see right on the screen it is not doing 40W the entire time. When I first fire on a cold donut, it might read in the low 30s for a split second but quickly goes down to more reasonable values. Not sure anyone knows exactly what algorithm it does use, but the iStick 40W TC mode is certainly doing something more sophisticated than simply firing at a steady 40W and dropping off when it hits the target resistance.

Furthermore, would like to note that after trying other adjustable-wattage-in-TC mods, I still think the iStick 40W is the best fit for the 2.5 CDA of all the mods I've tried. Mostly bc of the simplicity. I didn't find any benefit of adjusting the W in TC. And here's why…

The only real reason to turn the W down is bc people think it's "hammering" at 40W the whole time. It is certainly not bc they think the donut is getting too hot or heating up too quickly on the iStick 40W. This is why so many new people (who are new to CDAs coming from glass globe or other atomizers) think the CDAs don't hit hard enough. Since it turns out not to be true anyway (in my understanding) that the iStick simply does 40W the whole time, plus some feel it takes too long for the CDAs to get up to temp, it seems to me that this turns out to actually be an argument for turning the wattage *up*. Certainly, turning down to 12W in TC (at least on three different mods I tried this with) did not hit any better than the default TC mode on my iStick 40W.

But turning the wattage up didn't seem to do much except stretch out the resistance of my donuts. Once the cold resistance gets over 1.0, the donuts will not work in TC on most mods and only work in W mode after that. Yes, they started producing vapor faster, but it ruined the donuts.

All the TC adjustments the iStick lacks would only be necessary for me if I intended to also use the mod for devices other than 2.5 CDAs. True, there's only one TC mode (no Ni vs Ti, etc, but… it's the perfect setting for our CDAs). There's no adjustable TCR value (but the built in curve seems perfect for our CDAs). And there's no adjustable W in TC (but again, the built in algorithm seems to be perfect for CDAs).


This is a lot of words that boil down to my belief/experience that:

1. iStick 40W TC does not simply bang at 40W the entire time.
2. Changing the W values in TC mode, for me, did not provide any substantial benefit, certainly none that were proportional to the extra complexity involved (or the risk of ruining donuts).


I'll add that after going through several mods with replaceable 18650s, I'm considering buying a second iStick 40W TC bc the battery life is on-and-on. The last half, certainly last third or quarter of any 18650 battery charge is totally bunk. However, I still get great hits out of my iStick 40W down to the last 5th of the battery charge. Back when it was my daily driver mod, I would vape nic and concentrate all day long on the single charge, only recharging at night when asleep. But now I switch batteries about 3 or 4 times a day— that is just for my Nic rig. The iStick 40W is now dedicated to CDAs, and I never hit the CDAs on any other mod. I carry around both devices, kinda sucks. Been thinking to buy second iStick and just carry it as a backup instead of carry all those loose batteries.

I realize others have had different experiences w iStick vs other adjustable-W-in-TC mods and maybe it's bc I haven't tried it on those exact same mods. I did this on iStick 60W TC (yes, W is adjustable in TC, has Ni and Ti modes), KBOX Mini 60W (same adjustment capabilities) and a friend's mod that I didn't get the brand name on. Head said it was a clone of something but I don't remember of what.

 

[OF]

They say they like Sonys? that's easily printed. So each purchase is often a new spin of the wheel.

I mean if you were selling generic batteries in this unregulated market, why would you label your batteries as a loser brand? Go for the gold, label them as batteries that people want. It's not exactly like there's anyone for us to complain to. Ever seen the AW factory?

No, I've never seen the AW factory, and unless you know something I don't neither have you or anyone else? Wong is a broker, right? Buys/certifies batteries to his spec and labels them? No factory.

There's also the case of legit runs of batteries (really cells for those taking notes....) that don't 'make spec'. Normally such inventory is scrapped, I wonder if sometimes this might 'get sold out the back door' (unmarked perhaps) either officially or not. Or perhaps resold by the scrap/waste/recycling guy? I've bought 'counterfeit' cells that I'm convinced came from the Samsung factory (too many tiny details match 'real' Samsung INR18650s I already have) but were not marked by them. Since they read 1500mAh (not 2500) and with IRs twice or more what they should have been. OK for lesser demanding uses, but not what I paid for.

I follow similar ideas. Buy from legit sources, avoid 'this really great deal I found on the Internet'. EBay and the like is the way to dump trash on fools for sure. I get a couple from a trusted source then test them before buying more. That means testing capacity (at 500mA discharge) and (IMO more important in many cases) Internal Resistance (which effects maximum current, self heating and longevity). If they pass muster, I buy more (but also test them.....).

Even places like Amazon are not to be trusted on face value.

"Know your dealer" used to be the word to the wise on black market herb buys, perhaps the same should be said of battery sources.

I've done this please ty of times no problem. However when I did it to this one, I felt the inner cup move with the qtip. Sure enough, I got no atomizer error. Exactly the same thing happened to the next one I put it. Except the second one had resistance of 0.73. I am going to check for stability of the inner cup on new attys that I get from now on I'm so bummed out.

Bummer, but first advice is 'quit doing what's killing attys'?

It's normal for the inner cup to 'float', it's ceramic.....if it didn't 'give' with heat it'd bust? But look carefully at the photo below:

See the lead from the heater extending through the hole in the bottom of the cup and down into the base for connections? That's how you broke it I think. The lead to the center post is trapped in the rubber against the center pin, nothing is solid down there. While normally you pick up shorts in the area, opens are also likely. You might be able to fix it by carefully removing the center pin, straightening the lead and carefully putting the pin back. I've done this several times and only 'lost' one. Worth a try IMO, you've nothing to lose?

You should, of course have backup(s), best send Matt some more money? And remember, the cup is not cemented down, and the doughnut isn't attached at all to anything 'up top'. Don't press on it, or even touch it if you can avoid it. And if you do, expect problems might result?

I realize others have had different experiences w iStick vs other adjustable-W-in-TC mods and maybe it's bc I haven't tried it on those exact same mods. I did this on iStick 60W TC (yes, W is adjustable in TC, has Ni and Ti modes), KBOX Mini 60W (same adjustment capabilities) and a friend's mod that I didn't get the brand name on. Head said it was a clone of something but I don't remember of what.

While I haven't tried the 60WTC, I have done so with the TC 100W as I reported here a bit ago:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/divine-tribe-attys.14455/page-48#post-954860

It is definitely different, a different 'chip set', than the 40? It's more like the eVic mods....... With such mods you set TC and VW separately and can change either at will. A huge plus IMO.

Regards,

OF

 

[Steven]

Thanx for all the notes. I have already seen the inside of the atty without the ceramic housing when the 2.5 first came out. I know how I broke it. But my point is that the inner cup shouldn't be as loose as the 2 that I broke. I cleaned those 2 the same way I been cleaning these attys for years since the metal v1 dt. A well assembled dt atty will not have such a loose inner cup. 99% of my dt attys inner cup never rotated by swiping lightly with a q tip. Considering the 2 that I broke were brand new, elbow grease wasn't at all needed yet so I was swiping lightly. I also noticed that the 2 attys had a very noticeable gap at the top where the inner cup meets the ceramic housing. Again 99% of dt attys will have a gapless seem where the 2 ceramics meet

 

[OF]

But my point is that the inner cup shouldn't be as loose as the 2 that I broke. I cleaned those 2 the same way I been cleaning these attys for years since the metal v1 dt. A well assembled dt atty will not have such a loose inner cup. 99% of my dt attys inner cup never rotated by swiping lightly with a q tip. Considering the 2 that I broke were brand new, elbow grease wasn't at all needed yet so I was swiping lightly. I also noticed that the 2 attys had a very noticeable gap at the top where the inner cup meets the ceramic housing. Again 99% of dt attys will have a gapless seem where the 2 ceramics meet

Fine by me, but if you really have only broken two out of two hundred (99% good) something may have changed in which case DT is buried in defective units (or is about to be)? I've only used one of my last two (both deep), but everything seems fine there.

If you've really been inside the 2.5 base you know there's nothing holding the cup in place except the leads for the doughnut. The plate under it is cemented to the top of the rubber bushing inside (nothing solid there, either). All the doughnuts I have move at least a tiny bit, but I take care to not move them around since the leads are sure to suffer eventually if nothing else.

If you really think they're defective 'out of the box' I think you should send them back to DT and see if Matt agrees and wants to replace them. For sure check the next ones carefully before loading them. If there are reject units in the supply, that's worth sorting out for sure. Anyone else notice this?

OF

 

[Steven]

Fine by me, but if you really have only broken two out of two hundred (99% good) something may have changed in which case DT is buried in defective units (or is about to be)? I've only used one of my last two (both deep), but everything seems fine there.

If you've really been inside the 2.5 base you know there's nothing holding the cup in place except the leads for the doughnut. The plate under it is cemented to the top of the rubber bushing inside (nothing solid there, either). All the doughnuts I have move at least a tiny bit, but I take care to not move them around since the leads are sure to suffer eventually if nothing else.

If you really think they're defective 'out of the box' I think you should send them back to DT and see if Matt agrees and wants to replace them. For sure check the next ones carefully before loading them. If there are reject units in the supply, that's worth sorting out for sure. Anyone else notice this?

OF

I agree the inner cup moves a little bit but the ones I broke felt ridiculously loose. I think the 0.65 resistance and the poor seems indicate faulty pieces. But Matt has always been good to me. Heck he even sends me free attys from time to time so I don't feel compelled to send it back for a refund. Over the years Matt has definitely gave me more than 2 free attys. Rest assured though everyone these are the only 2 I had issues of this nature out of probably a hundred or 2

 

[OF]

Heck he even sends me free attys from time to time so I don't feel compelled to send it back for a refund. Over the years Matt has definitely gave me more than 2 free attys. Rest assured though everyone these are the only 2 I had issues of this nature out of probably a hundred or 2

Your call, but if you really think there's a quality issue perhaps this is a bit bigger than what you have? If I were in your place, I wouldn't be spreading claims around here getting folks upset and all, until I ran it down some more. Like getting Matt on board to see if he agrees there is a problem with what he's selling?

I'm not so sure how much stock I'd put in resistance readings. I just got a Mod that claims to 'see' less resistance than the one's I've been using on the same bases. Not sure what that's about but it still does just fine set for 390F with a 'M' value of 245. But, if suddenly you get two in a row that much lower I think that too deserves looking into, or at least questioning. Not that there's anything sacred about the resistance used (say about .77 Ohms?), a difference in the deposited film would make such a difference and perhaps without compromise. It could simply be lot to lot variance within specs? Still, it'd be good to get the 'take' from DT directly since we're blessed with a maker that finds the time/takes the trouble to check in with us.

Your call, but until more report this (or better still we get an answer from Matt) I'm not recommending folks do more than normal inspection/cautious dry heating before loading up and enjoying. I'm certainly not worried about doughnuts or cups not being 'solid', in fact I expect them to not be. I'm sure no expert on 'how loose is too loose'. Hopefully Matt is, but he may have to see the units to say?

OF

 

[Steven]

I don't see how I am spreading claims making people upset. I been cleaning the attys I broke the same way I been cleaning plenty of them without issues, so the cleaning method is not the issue. It's very common for a dt atty to last way pass 3 months for me so I know how to maintainence these attys well enough. I was simply sharing an experience to see if anyone else had this issue or to even help prevent it. I'm not saying Divine tribe is flooded with faulty units. I even stated I have well working units 99% of the time. I am and will always be a loyal dt customer and I will always speak my mind on my experience with their products, simple as that. The dt atty is still my favorite wax atty