Divine Tribe atty's

[Steven]

So I reported having issues with tcr 245 hitting temp protection but I may have jumped the gun a bit. After a good cleaning, tcr 245 works just as I like it on the v3. It also hits temp protection. What's noteworthy is that my old wismec presa tc 75w seems to be degrading. I believe all the super heat cleanings I put that thing through exposed it with so much heat. Also add on the countless grams that thing served me up with, that thing is aging. I say this because tcr 245 on my evic basic is quite the mighty hit. I use tcr 225 on my evic basic and it hits temp protection pretty damn fast.

Also I believe as long as you are in tc or tcr mode, it's a step above vw mode, not the same. At my setting or any other normal setting, the donut will not get cherry red. Not so much in vw mode. Tc and tcr modes at the very least let's you lock in the resistance, so power won't exponentially increase with every button press.

The temp I think we all want to know is the temp of the donut when it is loaded and in the middle of a hit where air is passing through it. That's pretty hard to get an accurate reading in this scenario but can anyone do it?

I actually don't even have a big concern over what the exact temp I'm getting anymore. I used to be very obsessed and snobby about these technicalities. I have definitely loosened that vice. I just use what I like. I have a very high tolerance so I enjoy the heavy hits. I don't mind a bit of combustion, yea I said it...I can definitely appreciate the efforts to an accurate reading though. I know certain psychoactives are activated at certain temps but I just know what kind of hit I like. I actually find myself using less wax overall now that I'm not limiting my hits to its numbers

 

[looney2nz]

So I reported having issues with tcr 245 hitting temp protection but I may have jumped the gun a bit. After a good cleaning, tcr 245 works just as I like it on the v3. It also hits temp protection. What's noteworthy is that my old wismec presa tc 75w seems to be degrading. I believe all the super heat cleanings I put that thing through exposed it with so much heat. Also add on the countless grams that thing served me up with, that thing is aging. I say this because tcr 245 on my evic basic is quite the mighty hit. I use tcr 225 on my evic basic and it hits temp protection pretty damn fast.

Also I believe as long as you are in tc or tcr mode, it's a step above vw mode, not the same. At my setting or any other normal setting, the donut will not get cherry red. Not so much in vw mode. Tc and tcr modes at the very least let's you lock in the resistance, so power won't exponentially increase with every button press.

The temp I think we all want to know is the temp of the donut when it is loaded and in the middle of a hit where air is passing through it. That's pretty hard to get an accurate reading in this scenario but can anyone do it?

I actually don't even have a big concern over what the exact temp I'm getting anymore. I used to be very obsessed and snobby about these technicalities. I have definitely loosened that vice. I just use what I like. I have a very high tolerance so I enjoy the heavy hits. I don't mind a bit of combustion, yea I said it...I can definitely appreciate the efforts to an accurate reading though. I know certain psychoactives are activated at certain temps but I just know what kind of hit I like. I actually find myself using less wax overall now that I'm not limiting my hits to its numbers

I don't have any kind of useful thermocouple to test temperatures with, but I did try the following:

setup the 3 TCR presets on the eVic VTwin Mini for 245 210 and 180 (I just dropped down to 20w @ 180 and 390F) and flip around between them try a few hits a piece. I think 180 and 20W may be a sweet spot... at least for me with this 13mm donut on this box Can't wait for the v3 with the medium cup and 10mm dount.

 

[Steven]

I don't have any kind of useful thermocouple to test temperatures with, but I did try the following:

setup the 3 TCR presets on the eVic VTwin Mini for 245 210 and 180 (I just dropped down to 20w @ 180 and 390F) and flip around between them try a few hits a piece. I think 180 and 20W may be a sweet spot... at least for me with this 13mm donut on this box Can't wait for the v3 with the medium cup and 10mm dount.

Kool thanx for the comparison. I think a lot of people here are using numbers close to yours

Has anybody recieved their black units? Anybody notice the new donuts? I got some new large donuts with a non circular inner coil. The resistance is around 0.59 and I can't seem to get it to work. I need to mess around with the settings.

 

[OF]

I think 180 and 20W may be a sweet spot... at least for me with this 13mm donut on this box Can't wait for the v3 with the medium cup and 10mm dount.

I ended running 170 for the m1 value, and 18 Watts as the power limit, basically what you are. At least for now. It seems to perform much like the V2.5 at 245 and 12 Watts......only bigger and cleaner.

I'm lucky enough to have one of the medium cups and doughnuts (in a black V3 no less......). After poking around some I'm getting the best results so far with the V2.5 settings. 245 for m2, 12 Watt limit, 390F selected. In a word, it's sweet. My favorite by a wide margin. I'm loading it like the big V3, that is putting a modest load on the top only. It's easy to do with a tiny 'chisel tip' SS tool I made when the doughnut is warm. You can kind of 'paint' a thin layer of melted concentrate on the entire surface. The smaller doughnut in the medium cup is easiest of all to load, the doughnut being more exposed.

Given the ease of cleaning I'm going to buy a few spares as soon as they become available and abandon the V2.5s after WT adapters become available. For now, I really like the 2.5 and a little bubbler and would miss it. Hopefully the 'hydrotube shortie' will be here in due time.

Better and better.

OF

 

[Steven]

I forgot to mention that the new revised cups for the large donuts are a great improvement on leakage. The leakage at the lead holes still exists, but nowhere as messy and as fast as the older version. I suppose this will do until the cup heaters arrive.

 

[Trever]

Pretty sure you just have to shoot em an email or a pm. I don't think there is a public med donut link atm.

Thanks dude!

 

[fernand]

@Bad Ocelot the emissivity ballpark that's quoted for white alumina is around .50-.80. I went through and tried to determine the real emissivity by comparing temps measured with a thermocouple to what the IR gun read.

It's very hard to get a reliable reading with a thermocouple because of the size and poor contact, but now I've settled on e=.65 as being reasonable, for clean white alumina ceramic. I previously used 0.50 and now think that was low. It made me estimate TCRs too low. Meaning I was running my donuts colder.

Using the calibrated IR gun to match up what the eVic VTC Mini display said and what temp was actually there, I re-ran several runs on the various donuts and arrived at the following TCR values that caused the best display <-> reality matches on the eVic VTC Mini. I was satisfied with temps a tad on the low side. That's on clean alumina crucibles in good contact with the donuts themselves, no airflow, using e=.65 on IR gun for confirmation temp readings.

• For the BIG white V3 donut 0.43 ohm TCR = 125
• For the medium white V3 donut 0.67 ohm TCR = 165
• For my 1st V2.5 0.79 ohm TCR = 200
• For my 2nd V2.5 0.73 ohm TCR = 220
• For my 1st Black e-bay medium bowl 0.68 ohm TCR = 165
• For my 2nd Black e-bay medium bowl 0.75 ohm TCR = 110 ! This guy runs HOT!

Frankly, donuts are not all that consistent. That last one sure was a surprise. I'm writing down what each unit "wants". Anybody who gives a flying duck might want to own an IR gun with adjustable emissivity and just label each atomizer.

Note that selecting LOWER e values cause an IR gun to read HIGHER.
Note that entering HIGHER TCR values cause the controller to heat MORE.

So, if the ceramic's emissivity is in reality not .65 but 0.60, or even 0.50, the donuts with the settings above are actually running hotter than the displayed temp, meaning one would lower the TCRs.

I used a max wattage setting of 14 watts throughout and never had trouble reaching target temp within seconds or endangering the donut. With airflow the cooling lowers temps fast. And just a wax load will demand more heat. At 370 deg F I wouldn't expect huge clouds. I'd rather have a great taste and inhale just the light fraction. You can set a higher temp to get all fractions boiled off, and faster. I'd rather take my sweet time ;-)

In using an iStick Pico I found the same TCR values seemed to work much as on the Joyetech.

With no airflow I found using a clean alumina crucible, rather than directly measuring the donut itself, gave me a clean consistent surface to read IR off of, and it was within a few degrees of the clean donut surface itself. [edit] I found turning off the sighting laser and sticking the atomizer shallowly into the throat of the IR gun and moving it around a bit gave me the most consistent readings, with the MAX temp close to the last HOLD reading. I'm using a gun a lot like this one.
This one includes a thermocouple and some sort of internal datalogger for not much more.

 

[fernand]

FLASH! and we have a new champeen ...

• For my new BIG Black V3 donut 0.57 ohm TCR = 280
• For 2nd donut in BIG Black V3 donut 0.60 ohm TCR = 300

Wow. talk about "not all that consistent". First thought it wuz broke.

For nubies: TCR is what you have to set one of your M1, M2, M3 memories
to, in the Joyetech type "mods", for the donut to get as hot as what the display says.

 

[Steven]

FLASH! and we have a new champeen ...

• For my new BIG Black V3 donut 0.57 ohm TCR = 280
• For 2nd donut in BIG Black V3 donut 0.60 ohm TCR = 300

Wow. talk about "not all that consistent". First thought it wuz broke.

For nubies: TCR is what you have to set one of your M1, M2, M3 memories
to, in the Joyetech type "mods", for the donut to get as hot as what the display says.

Have you noticed the new donuts don't have a perfect circular inner coil? It's like a squiggly, hairpin curving inner coil for the new donuts. That's probably why it's so inconsistent? Or am I the only one that got these wierd new donuts?

 

[whatavape]

Have you noticed the new donuts don't have a perfect circular inner coil? It's like a squiggly, hairpin curving inner coil for the new donuts. That's probably why it's so inconsistent? Or am I the only one that got these wierd new donuts?

I posted a bit ago about this too.. looks like 4 omegas (ohm symbol) smushed down to fit inside of the donut. It looks like a single coil snaked around, not like the first large donuts which had two coils that wrapped around twice each. Looks like I have some more testing to do, but so far I am using TCR176 mostly when I use TCR at all, since I am working on my own curves for these coils. I will try some of @fernand 's TCR values as my slope across vape temps and try tweaking, since it seems these might not be so consistent. As you mentioned, @fernand , I don't see a ton of concrete consistency. My medium donuts are all I'm using right now, and I'm noticing that 3/4 work well around TCR190, the fourth I need to use 195 or 200, though, to get the same vapor production. As for my "old" large donuts, those are definitely consistent, as they all work with my "old large" curve, very well. No noticeable difference. I haven't messed much with TCR with my v2.x's (and alikes) - I have always used TCR220 for those, or Ni mode if no TCR is available.


Now, for the weird stuff that I promised a few days ago before so rudely disappearing for the weekend...
My v2-alikes from eBay look like this:

The airflow hole is at the bottom of the 510 connector on these. As you might notice, the silver base has become unseated from the black ceramic housing....

When I had this plugged into my Tesla Stealth TC40, I went to reload... and pop! Off came the entire ceramic housing. There is some ceramic glue here that kept the base attached to the metal you see here. This is a friction fit, so even now that I've cleared off the glue, it stays together. The ceramic housing pops off as one piece, now, and actually makes it easier to load. Here's why:

You're left with this. Basically a smaller version of the v3 with no screws. But this is where I got nervous, because at first glance, it looks like one solid piece. I was worried there might be more glue at the bottom of the ceramic cup... but after some fiddling, I figured this out:

Looks familiar, yeah? Like these. Or these? The weird thing here is that I can't find these with the ceramic donut. I tore it down further, and here's the end result. The silicone piece is around a metal piece, these insulate and connect the two wire leads to the outer sleeve and inner pin like our v3's RBA pegs. Also to note, one wire lead is insulated by a silicone or other soft plastic sleeve.

I will say this is cool, though I probably won't explore it much more because the v3 is a much better design IMO. This interests me though, for using the coils from the v2.x's in other settings.

 

[Steven]

I posted a bit ago about this too.. looks like 4 omegas (ohm symbol) smushed down to fit inside of the donut. It looks like a single coil snaked around, not like the first large donuts which had two coils that wrapped around twice each. Looks like I have some more testing to do, but so far I am using TCR176 mostly when I use TCR at all, since I am working on my own curves for these coils. I will try some of @fernand 's TCR values as my slope across vape temps and try tweaking, since it seems these might not be so consistent. As you mentioned, @fernand , I don't see a ton of concrete consistency. My medium donuts are all I'm using right now, and I'm noticing that 3/4 work well around TCR190, the fourth I need to use 195 or 200, though, to get the same vapor production. As for my "old" large donuts, those are definitely consistent, as they all work with my "old large" curve, very well. No noticeable difference. I haven't messed much with TCR with my v2.x's (and alikes) - I have always used TCR220 for those, or Ni mode if no TCR is available.


Now, for the weird stuff that I promised a few days ago before so rudely disappearing for the weekend...
My v2-alikes from eBay look like this:

The airflow hole is at the bottom of the 510 connector on these. As you might notice, the silver base has become unseated from the black ceramic housing....

When I had this plugged into my Tesla Stealth TC40, I went to reload... and pop! Off came the entire ceramic housing. There is some ceramic glue here that kept the base attached to the metal you see here. This is a friction fit, so even now that I've cleared off the glue, it stays together. The ceramic housing pops off as one piece, now, and actually makes it easier to load. Here's why:

You're left with this. Basically a smaller version of the v3 with no screws. But this is where I got nervous, because at first glance, it looks like one solid piece. I was worried there might be more glue at the bottom of the ceramic cup... but after some fiddling, I figured this out:

Looks familiar, yeah? Like these. Or these? The weird thing here is that I can't find these with the ceramic donut. I tore it down further, and here's the end result. The silicone piece is around a metal piece, these insulate and connect the two wire leads to the outer sleeve and inner pin like our v3's RBA pegs. Also to note, one wire lead is insulated by a silicone or other soft plastic sleeve.

I will say this is cool, though I probably won't explore it much more because the v3 is a much better design IMO. This interests me though, for using the coils from the v2.x's in other settings.

I'm suprised to see the wires are insulated with that plastic. I thought about using those insulators to thread through the old v3 cups to help with leakage but those plastic tubes melted under a lighter so I gave up in that idea. Wierd to see its used in those ebay donuts

 

[1DMF]

I'm getting excited as I just won the ebay auction for a brand new V3 atty & doughnuts

Though the exchange rate bit my ass a bit (oh well I voted brexit so mustn't grumble!).

Just hope my eLeaf Aster box mod doesn't take too long to arrive!

 

[FX]

I haven't posted in a bit and missed a lot, but feel that I should check in. I'm sure much of this has been mentioned, maybe even so on this last page but I'm going to post anyway.

I'm on my third V3. Ordered white upon release, then black because I noticed it was new, then another black today because I just cracked the black base over tightening a screw maybe. I just looked back and noticed it chipped off. I have been using it 99% of the time without screws and just went back. I will start using less torque and continue using my band around the base of the atty. I use one of those atty rubber bands and learned the other day it's great at retaining the screws of they start to loosen.

The donuts are inconsistent but on a very small scale. The issues associated with this have not been a problem since I stopped using TCR and just use my RX200 in Ni temp control. I just adjust the temp between 410-520 based on what is hitting right and the amount. No offense to the TCR guys, I tired many times, many suggestions and couldn't get it right. It may be my mod or another factor but all is good now. Quality of what I am vaping played a major role in all of this and how I applied to the donut. I now try just the best quality and paint around a slightly preheated donut.

There's so much more to state but I'm due here in a minute. This product has changed my life, literally. I'm 100% combustion-free since the V3 release and feel great. I can't imagine a daily routine and life any different. Thanks Matt and FC!!!

 

[Bags69]

I wanna give a huge shout out to Matt for the new black V3 plus 4 extra medium cups and doughnuts.
Super quick shipping !

Now to decide Eleaf Pico or Evic mini ?
What settings for a tasty cool vape ? My head hurts from reading pages and pages of this thread . I need a vape and more studying lol ......

 

[Izan]

I wanna give a huge shout out to Matt for the new black V3 plus 4 extra medium cups and doughnuts.
Super quick shipping !

Now to decide Eleaf Pico or Evic mini ?
What settings for a tasty cool vape ? My head hurts from reading pages and pages of this thread . I need a vape and more studying lol ......

I have both the mini (V1) and the pico.
I prefer the Mini over the pico. The pico is a bit too small and gets "lost" in my hand.
The Presa 75 is also a contender. (the full side switch is a love/hate feature for most.)

If it's down to price... get the best deal, they all work the same.

Cheers
I

 

[Steven]

I have both the mini (V1) and the pico.
I prefer the Mini over the pico. The pico is a bit too small and gets "lost" in my hand.
The Presa 75 is also a contender. (the full side switch is a love/hate feature for most.)

If it's down to price... get the best deal, they all work the same.

Cheers
I

What? I thought I was the only in in here that loves the presa 75. Imo it's still the best feeling mod in my hand. The thing is just ergonomic and I fall on the side that loves the panel button. I also recommend the wismec presa tc 75w. It's nice to hold onto a box mod that's actually not a box. I also love my evic basic though

 

[fernand]

Now to decide Eleaf Pico or Evic mini ?
What settings for a tasty cool vape ? My head hurts from reading pages and pages of this thread . I need a vape and more studying lol ......

We TCR freaks have been concerned with accurately calibrating the rig so what you see on the display is what you get. So we've been into the numbers.

But here's a simple way to do TC. It's the same on the Pico and the Evic. I prefer the Joyetech because the display is more complete.

• First you read the "manual" to find how to set the rig to TC (Temp Control).
• You then find how to set the Wattage limit during TC operation. Set to 14 watts. That prevents blowing the donut.
• Then you set the 3 memories of TCR to 3 different values, say M1=120, M2=160, M3=200, and leave on M2=160 as operating value.
• Lastly, set the target temperature to 370 deg Farenheit, and try slowly vaping smears or tiny amounts off the donut.

If you're getting no vapor you're too cold.
If you're getting a wispy tasty vapor, you're just right.
If you're getting a lot of vapor, you're too hot.

If you're just right, then leave TCR alone and just adjust the target Temp until you get what you like/want.

If you're too low, pick the M3=200 memory and see if you're just right.

If you're too high, pick the M1 = 120 memory see if you're just right.

You might end up shifting your M1-M3 values, as you test donuts. For instance I have some V3s that require more like a 300 TCR! But using this method you can dial in the TCR for any particular donut. Write down the best value for each one. Now your rig is calibrated for each combo. You can sort of trust the temp the display shows.

Then you can just use the Target Temp to predictably choose from a very light cool awakening vapor at 360-380 to thick stoning clouds at 420-450.

I wonder if anyone has a reliable method for confirming high temp. With RDA coils we used to calibrate to 451 F (like in the SciFi story) as the combustion point for paper/cotton. If you're browning the cotton wick, you're over 450.

 

[Bags69]

Thank you all for your replies.
Fernand excellent comprehensive write up which is exactly what I was looking for.
I look forward to quite a few night of fun and experimentation !
Let the games begin , I will report back with my findings !

 

[1DMF]

My Eleaf Aster box mod has arrived (10 days from China and 100% authenticated as genuine with security code on Eleaf website ).

The manual says to get 18650 batteries with over 25A continuous discharge, so was considering : LG HB6 18650 1600mAh 30A , is this a good choice?

Edit: Or perhaps the Sony VCT4/5 - but I see a lot of complaints about fakes on Amazon

 

[TeeJay1952]

A glimmer of understanding after reading for a year. thanks @fernand

 

[fernand]

@1DMF don't worry too much about the 18650 brand and model, because as soon as the wholesalers realize what's popular, they make the appropriate wrappers.

I would go so far as to say that most batteries coming from China aren't what they are labeled as. Just because you buy a battery or two labeled Sony XYZ that work well and are long-lasting, doesn't mean that they WERE in fact Sony XYZ, and the next Sony XYZ you buy will seldom be the same.

But most of them work OK.

In reality for vaping oils, we don't need a lot of power. High wattage just destroys the oil, decomposes it. The ceramic donuts work well around 10-15 watts. More than that and they're glowing. We only use that to burn off the residues. If they're glowing in vape mode they're too hot, they burn the oil, and then they crack and fail quickly.

And on the batteries, really, if you figure 15 watts peak, from a 3.7 volt battery into 0.8 ohms, that's only 4 Amps, and that's peak. And we either manually pulse them, or the Temp Control circuit does. Even allowing a generous extra margin for converter inefficiencies, it just doesn't take a monster battery.

The nicotine e-liquid RDA guys are doing something different; they use more power. And torched nails are a different story yet, because the oil is flash-sublimated off the hot surface; it doesn't actually get as hot as the surface.

So a plausible conclusion is to just buy decent but garden-variety safe chemistry IMR type 3.7 volt 18650 batteries, and go for the best deal. If they don't turn out super, so what? Get some others.

Spending real money on alleged premium batteries is IMHO a waste. With too many "premium" batteries you're just paying for a forged wrapper. Even the people who sell them don't know batch to batch what they got. And if you do sometimes get a genuine Gonzo Mondo Battery, it's not going to make any real difference in our application, at most they'll last a little longer.

 

[1DMF]

@fernand thanks, really appreciate the advice. I decided to go to the local vape shop and see what they had.

Turns out all they stock is genuine Efest IMR 20A continuous / 35A pulse, 3000mAh. So I got one of them and it seems to work fine.

My v3 atty also arrived today (Thanks Matt ) , so now I need to work out how to configure the box mod!

Edit: how do I configure the Aster in TCR mode, the manual makes no sense?

I set

M1 = 120, W = 14, T = 370F
M2 = 160, W = 14, T = 370F
M3 = 200, W = 14, T = 370F

I get no vapour at all on any of the M1/2/3 settings?

OK , moved M3 = 280 and now I get vapour on 370F and clouds @ 400+F..... this tastes awesome.

Being able to precisely dial in power / temp etc and have the box mode protect the coil from over heating and burning is genius.

Going to take a little experimenting for sure, but I have fallen in love with Rosin all over again.

What's the max watts as the ebay blurb has 33w as the setting on much lower 280F temp ?

For advanced users even better is TCR mode. I like to keep this in M1 with a value of 190 using 33w to get to 280°f

 

[OF]

I'm suprised to see the wires are insulated with that plastic.

Careful here, lad, those tubes aren't 'plastic' but almost certainly PTFE (Teflon). Well suited to the job, routinely used in electronics. In fact the standard 'bench test' to be sure it's not thermoplastic (Polyethylene I think?) is to hit it with your 700F soldering iron tip. PTFE doesn't melt even there.

http://www.componentsupplycompany.com/product_pages/ptfe-tubing-sw.html

The manual says to get 18650 batteries with over 25A continuous discharge, so was considering : LG HB6 18650 1600mAh 30A , is this a good choice?

Edit: Or perhaps the Sony VCT4/5 - but I see a lot of complaints about fakes on Amazon

In order to get 75 Watts from a single 18650 you need state of the art, but we only want a fraction of that, like 1/4. Any of the 'quality' 18650s popular with the e-cig guys will do fine for this use.

I would not dismiss the Amazon ones as fake, just misrepresented. The ones I got fit this IMO. There are several different capacities of that cell series it seems, and it gets more confusing as they were never intended for retail sale so the labeling is lame sometimes (wouldn't matter if in say an electric car battery pack). I ran the pair I got a dozen or more cycles before putting them in service believing them genuine Sonys but misrepresented as to capacity. They tracked very well, I ran one a dozen or so 'more' cycles (I left them in the charger/analyzer for one and two weeks respectively and reset it usually twice a day. No degradation I could see that early on.

I think they're genuine, they look right in the fine details compared to other 'known good' ones. Their internal resistance is very low (key feature) and the capacity stable. In a way they'd be just fine (and are being used in this duty here) even if at slightly reduced capacity. Like 10% IIRC.

I haven't posted in a bit and missed a lot, but feel that I should check in.

The issues associated with this have not been a problem since I stopped using TCR and just use my RX200 in Ni temp control.

Good to know you're still with us and enjoying your gear. I too tend to get 'distracted' and wonder off.

Not to upset your reality or anything but you are (still) using TCR mode when you 'just switch to Ni'. All you do is let the designers pick the m value for you. Eleaf claims to use 600 to 700 for this. This means you're basically defeating TCR control since it's 'looking for a resistance rise that never comes'. Same as dialing up 600F (since target temperature rise is multiplied by the TCR value to give the expected rise, mathematically they both count the same......so to speak). You revert back to VW mode, which is OK of course. But normally Ni is a TCR mode like SS, Ti and the custom ones we use. Different from VW, VV, or other modes).

Not that it really matters in a results oriented game like here, but you can restore TC to it I think if you bump up the VW level just a bit then lower the set temperature until you can go into protect mode before timeout. That puts TC active again, but hopefully 'a bit too hot'? You can then 'adjust' the displayed (target) temperature down and the TCR m value up as needed to reach say 400F?

Or not.

I have an update to an old issue, not being able to run the DC Herb cart in TCR mode. Those who were there (and no doubt still are....) will recall the mods would 'jump out of TCR control' into VW without warning? Sometimes you'd get a hit or two working very well only to have it crash again.

Same thing happened briefly to me with V3! I had just taken it apart to try torching the cup. A few hits later it jumped out (went to 20 Watts rather than TCR of 170 with 18 Watt limit). I just reset it a couple of times before focusing on it. If I 'crowded it' so it stayed hot it did pretty good, but if I ran say 2 or less 10 second cycles a minute (long rests so it cooled off) it seldom did four or five in a row without jumping out......

I took the doughnut out, looked at the pieces, put it back and it want away again. My assumption is I didn't have the screw(s) properly tightened and as things heated up and shifted a bit sloppy contact made for a big jump in resistance total at exactly the wrong time causing the mods to default (remember, this happens across brand/model lines). Such artifacts of something else getting mixed up with signals (in this case sensing of the resistance) are known as 'noise' in the trade, kind of ironic when you think about it? So, that's my guess. Marginal contact design in the original e-cig connector is being pushed too hard by increasing power demands leading to mechanically caused noise in the reading forcing the mod out of TCR mode?

Anyway, I think it would be fun to hack into the herb cart and mount it on the V3 base?

Otherwise I'm continuing to enjoy my V3 very much. Those holding off should get on board, you'll regret not having done so earlier enough already. I think the medium size will be the call for many of us, but the big dog has his place too. Just got to be careful........a guy could get hurt that way. Or see Elvis. Or both?

A great step forward indeed. "Well done" as the Brits would say.

Regards to all,

OF

Edit:

M1 = 120, W = 14, T = 370F
M2 = 160, W = 14, T = 370F
M3 = 200, W = 14, T = 370F

I get no vapour at all on any of the M1/2/3 settings?

OK , moved M3 = 280 and now I get vapour on 370F and clouds @ 400+F..... this tastes awesome.

Being able to precisely dial in power / temp etc and have the box mode protect the coil from over heating and burning is genius.

Sounds like you're getting closer, congrats. This is V3? With the large doughnut? I think you'll like a bit more power. I'm running 18 Watts and think most other guys are? I'm happy with an M value of 170 right now and vape in the 370 to 390 range most often. You might want to try say 16 Watts, if your TCR control is right enough and in control all that happens is the hit 'gets there' faster from cold......which can be very nice on top of the rest.

Regards once again,

OF

 

[1DMF]

Sounds like you're getting closer, congrats. This is V3? With the large doughnut? I think you'll like a bit more power. I'm running 18 Watts and think most other guys are? I'm happy with an M value of 170 right now and vape in the 370 to 390 range most often

Yes, enjoying this V3 with large doughnut very much, best Rosin experience so far!

I love the pure taste of Rosin terpenes, it's so clean with these attys and a box mod, and I'm a newbie numpty with this stuff, can't wait till I get to grips with the settings, it'll be taste heaven for sure.

I also love the way low temp THC medicates me, hits my disability square in the face, without being too couch locked on CBD.

I'm sure the delivery mechanism affects the way the chemistry works.

This is by far the best ceramic doughnut atomiser I have tried, and have already retired my Dr Dabber Aurora.

Just wish I could get hold of more Rosin, damn UK prohibition!

 

[fernand]

@1DMF Given a shortage of substance you might like the V2 type. They are much more economical. My personal favorite has been a V2-alike from an e-bay vendor. It has air holes higher up in the well than the Divine Tribe V2.5/2.7. I then got some 6.8mm x 4 mm alumina ceramic micro-crucible cups from China via e-bay. They fit perfectly atop the small donut down in the well. It requires only minute quantities of wax/oil in the cup under TC. The air vortex that's created lifts the vapor without pulling up the cup (which happens when the air holes are lower down). The cup easily drops out when warm, for cleaning and reloading. This is the all-time economical rig, and nothing leaks down into the base. How economical? I'm talking milligrams. If the oil contains > 50% cannabinoids, then 25 mg of it efficiently vaporized provides 12.5 mg of actives. That's 40 alerting loads per gram. The V3 is much less efficient.

Re: wattage, the idea is that in TC mode the wattage is a limit. It prevents overshoot in heating and sets the slope of the heat-up towards target temp. If the TCR value is in the ball park, the donut should reach target temp in a few seconds with wattage limit well under 20 watts.

If the TCR is wrong, you can watch it never reach target temp, and as @OF says, you start cranking up the wattage but you've given up on temp control. The down side is that these donuts are easily damaged if there's no temp control.

Better to try dialing in the TCR. The newest big V3s I got required setting my M3 to 300. Which is funny because the first ones I got required a TCR of 125.