If anyone has any problem with housings in the v3 and you think that it broke for a reason other than you dropped it hard,, I will replace those bases or mouthpieces (balck or white). I was told the black ceramic is solid, there are no coatings. I will get paul to give me the full breakdown of the black ceramic and what qualities make it black.. he assured me it was not a paint or coating and that it was solid ceramic..
People are not noticing to many results with the revised cups, they work almost the same.
I am still debating on the depth of the intake holes on both the medium and large cups. We definitely shrunk the donut wire holes on both cups.. but would like more feedback on the airflow and if raising the airholes decreases airflow, which is important to so many
People are not noticing to many results with the revised cups, they work almost the same.
I am still debating on the depth of the intake holes on both the medium and large cups. We definitely shrunk the donut wire holes on both cups.. but would like more feedback on the airflow and if raising the airholes decreases airflow, which is important to so many
I'm confused as to whether the large cups were ever revised. All of the large cups I have are identical. The donuts differ, but the 4 that came with my black v3s (2x2) and the 12 that came with my white v3s (2 from the first batch and two from the "new" batch) are all the same. I don't see a difference at all in post hole size or airflow hole size or location.
If you cruise back a few pages, I posted some of my settings on my Hcigar vt75. Just a less powerful version of what you have, but my settings should work for you. I'm happy to share my custom material profiles with you too, if you'd like.
Sorry that I can't offer any help with the DC - but I don't own one. I will probably grab one when the rebuildable version is available.
I use a modified TCR 176 or TCR 190 depending on which donut I am using. I have not tried the new large donuts with my curves much, though, as I am using the medium donuts on my vt75.
I bought the iStick tc40w from Matt on eBay with one of the v3s with the new squiggly donuts. I don't use it in VW, I use it in Ni mode. The old donuts required a temp of around 260-270F in Ni mode to get good temps on the donut of around 200C (392F), and with the squiggly donuts I need to go up to at LEAST 340F to see any vapor.
I am also noticing this exact issue. 2-3 hits on a fresh load, then it needs more. Believe it or not, I am just loading more. On a clean donut, I load 4-5 loads of 0.05g, or around 1/4g taking my 2-3 good hits on each load. Then, each load after this gives 5-10 good hits. Essentially I am letting this corner buildup grow just enough so that any additional loads are forced to stay on top of the donut. When I go to clean, i just scrape it out. The only negative I see to this so far is that I've broken a medium cup with my ceramic tweezers. One of the airflow hole lips cracked off.
Yep, my two new white v3 kits have the new donuts. I got two v3s from the initial run and those are the only ones with the old large donuts (~.45 ohm).
If these are anything like the v2-alikes, it is not a black glaze. They are made of black ceramic, so to say, not just alumina, but alumina with some impurity (likely a carbon) to add the black color. I haven't broken a black v3, but if the center is black (is black all the way through) then this is the case. My mouthpiece end is seemingly made this way, but maybe @divinetribe can chime in here and help.
Edit: If they aren't black glazed, but instead black alumina, that would explain why they are more brittle. Any impure ceramic is not as strong. The eBay seller who provided my v2-alikes even noted that the white ceramic is stronger on those than the black for this very reason.
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