Divine Tribe atty's

[1DMF]

I'm considering getting a v3 atomiser but don't currently have a battery mod.

Is the eLeaf iStick TC200W a good choice?

Also, what 18650 batteries should I get?

 

[OF]

First off, I'm enjoying my V3 but am now changing the settings some. I was using an m value of 245 (same as V2) at 18 Watts with some serious success. Than I noticed it was always 'getting away with me', that is overwhelming me with big production, and I was 'hitting the chicken switch' (shutting it down mid hit) because of it. I was never reaching temperature limit!

Even though I had TC selected, I was really 'only' running in VW mode (at 18 Watts). I had to lower the set temperature down into the 'mid 200s' to get it to limit before I did. It was just getting too hot too fast. So I've 'inched' the settings back. I'm now using 170 as a TCR value, keeping the 18 Watt limit and finding it reaches 'temperature limit' more or less on time. Right now I'm using 370F, not my usual 390, so I may end up backing the m value down a bit more so that agrees with the setting on V2/2.5.

Otherwise, V3 is very impressive, guys should try them even if you're happy with the current ones. They are different in action as well as scale. IMO you should keep the goods on top, avoid letting any pool up under the doughnut.

I'm considering getting a v3 atomiser but don't currently have a battery mod.

Is the eLeaf iStick TC200W a good choice?

Also, what 18650 batteries should I get?

TC200W should work fine, it's little brother, TC100W does. But it's very much in the 'shooting a sparrow with a cannon' range. You need 20 Watts, not 200. E-cig guys need all that power, not us. Why drag all that extra size and weight around if it's no good? And the higher cost?

Rather, I'd suggest you consider something in the under 100W, single 18650, TCR capable mods. Like the iStick Pico (about $25) or EVic Mini (a bit more). Both proven performers in this role and much smaller and cheaper.

Any of the cells popular with the E-cig guys should do us just fine, again we're less demanding. Two of my current favorites are the LG HE2 and the Samsung INR 18650. There are also several excellent Pannasonics out there as well, but the LG and Samsung seem a bit cheaper and 'plenty strong'.

OF

 

[1DMF]

@OF thanks for the info. I saw that the DT site had an istick 100w and just thought getting the 200w as it has 3 batteries, would mean it would take ages before needing charging. I know I don't need the wattage.

I shall re-evaluate my choice!

Edit: @OF , would the Eleaf iStick ASTER Mod 1-75W TC do the job OK?

 

[OF]

@OF thanks for the info. I saw that the DT site had an istick 100w and just thought getting the 200w as it has 3 batteries, would mean it would take ages before needing charging. I know I don't need the wattage.

Edit: @OF , would the Eleaf iStick ASTER Mod 1-75W TC do the job OK?

You're welcome. A tough call to make 'blind' for sure. In broad terms a four Volt cell giving 2000mAh (high on the volts, low on the mAh.....but 'close enough for jazz'), that's 8 Watt Hours per cell. Divide that by 18 Watts and a single cell will give you over half an hour of 'key down happy time'. How much can you stand of that action between recharges? Consider it's half a minute or less to swap in a fresh cell and still be lighter and more compact than that 3 cell monster? Your call, but why take a truck with a huge gas tank down for a six pack? Unless you like big trucks, of course.

Your call, but some consideration might prevent a mod quickly replaced gathering dust?

I've never tried that mod, but it's no doubt using the same 'code set' as the other iStick mods that offer similar specs these days. Like the Pico, TC100W and so on. No, make that 'most likely' (until someone confirms). It looks like a repackage of the Pico to me, more stylish perhaps, but I think a bit bigger?

I like the Pico, but would not fear that one.

Regards,

OF

 

[Tranquility]

You're welcome. A tough call to make 'blind' for sure. In broad terms a four Volt cell giving 2000mAh (high on the volts, low on the mAh.....but 'close enough for jazz'), that's 8 Watt Hours per cell. Divide that by 18 Watts and a single cell will give you over half an hour of 'key down happy time'. How much can you stand of that action between recharges? Consider it's half a minute or less to swap in a fresh cell and still be lighter and more compact than that 3 cell monster? Your call, but why take a truck with a huge gas tank down for a six pack? Unless you like big trucks, of course.

Your call, but some consideration might prevent a mod quickly replaced gathering dust?

I've never tried that mod, but it's no doubt using the same 'code set' as the other iStick mods that offer similar specs these days. Like the Pico, TC100W and so on. No, make that 'most likely' (until someone confirms). It looks like a repackage of the Pico to me, more stylish perhaps, but I think a bit bigger?

I like the Pico, but would not fear that one.

Regards,

OF

I bought a stepped down to 133 from 200 HCigar with DNA 250 for a good price. I figured having all the bells and whistles and the ability to power anything that is planned to come out for years was going to be worth it. It does need 2 batteries and, even though I use it at home so don't really care if it is "portable", I can see a LOT of situations where a single battery would be a better choice.

 

[Bad Ocelot]

I do agree that a Pyrex mouthpiece in the v3 would make it very easily adaptable to many other pieces though

I liked the pyrex caps for the 2.5 quite a bit, however I broke like 6 of them & now just use the ceramic caps. It's cool to be able to see vapor production though, especially when you're dialing in the settings. After one gets settings & technique stable it's pretty easy to use "blind," but watching the vapor form is still cool IMO.

First off, I'm enjoying my V3 but am now changing the settings some. I was using an m value of 245 (same as V2) at 18 Watts with some serious success. Than I noticed it was always 'getting away with me', that is overwhelming me with big production, and I was 'hitting the chicken switch' (shutting it down mid hit) because of it. I was never reaching temperature limit!

Even though I had TC selected, I was really 'only' running in VW mode (at 18 Watts). I had to lower the set temperature down into the 'mid 200s' to get it to limit before I did. It was just getting too hot too fast. So I've 'inched' the settings back. I'm now using 170 as a TCR value, keeping the 18 Watt limit and finding it reaches 'temperature limit' more or less on time. Right now I'm using 370F, not my usual 390, so I may end up backing the m value down a bit more so that agrees with the setting on V2/2.5.

Otherwise, V3 is very impressive, guys should try them even if you're happy with the current ones. They are different in action as well as scale. IMO you should keep the goods on top, avoid letting any pool up under the doughnut.

OF

Interesting. This is for the large donuts I take it? I've started out with the 2.5 TCR settings as well and have been having good results with temp set to 380 & wattage maxed at 28. Only had it blow my head off a couple of times & usually get 3-4 hits. I usually seem to prefer lower temps than most people used on the 2.x so i'm a bit surprised I'm using it "hotter" than you. Though I suppose having the wattage set higher might cause it to feather the power earlier, though I honestly haven't been keeping track of if/when it's hitting temp protection. I may fiddle around with the TCR & try something in the neighborhood of 170 sometime soon.

Got medium donuts & a black v3 this weekend! I love the revised cup! That lip really helps with the seepage. Started using the medium donuts with the same settings I was using for the large (TCR=245, 380F, 28.7w) & kept blowing my head off. Moved the TCR down to 240 & temp to 360 but still clearing the whole load in one massive hit & scorching it a bit. Went back to original settings & reduced wattage by ~25% & much more manageable. Still got a bit of fine tuning to do though.

While I was cleaning up in the kitchen I found my IR thermometer so I'm gonna start using that to test some temps & settings. What emissivity settings have you all been using for the ceramic heaters? Obviously it isn't the most precise measurement tool, but should be close enough for my purposes.

I bought a stepped down to 133 from 200 HCigar with DNA 200 for a good price. I figured having all the bells and whistles and the ability to power anything that is planned to come out for years was going to be worth it. It does need 2 batteries and, even though I use it at home so don't really care if it is "portable", I can see a LOT of situations where a single battery would be a better choice.

I'm planning on getting a DNA mod for this stuff early next year as well. Those custom curves look appealing. I'd do it now but too many irons in the fire at the moment!

 

[Steven]

So a while back I've also posted about how tcr 245 doesn't really jump into temp protection but floats around 360F or so for me. Like OF and a few others have mentioned, tcr 245 does kick you in the face a bit at times. I thought it was maybe the larger donut but now hearing everyone else's accounts, tcr 245 may be a bit off. I just started messing around with it more lately and have had great success with tcr 225, 22w, at 420F. It hits temp protection pretty quickly at tcr 225 actually. Still more experimenting to be done. I need to try tcr 235 or something like that next. I tried the same settings @tcr 160, 170, and 180, but I did not like the results. Funny, seems there are wide ranges of tcr's that people like, much more than on the v2.5.

 

[OF]

Funny, seems there are wide ranges of tcr's that people like, much more than on the v2.5.

I don't think I was clear enough, I think the TCR value I was using didn't matter at all. The combination of TCR and target temperature (they go together) never was taking control in my case (and I suspect others?).

I was basically running in VW mode, not TC. Had I held the button down I'm sure it would have gotten too hot in short order.

Now I can reach 'temperature limit' with V3 like with V2/2.5......IMO a good thing.

OF

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

the v3s are here in black and i have extra stock of the medium donuts. Also I have sample large cups and black units for @fernand @OF @Steven @Vape Donkey 650
I am making ads for the blacks if you want the black just let me know on checkout.

glass on glass bubbler / oil rig attachments coming soon for the v3 in all sizes 14-18mm male and female
I will be selling whole vaporizer kits of the v3 matched up with the eleaf pico, sony vtc6 18650, silicone case, and v3.. you can choose black or white for all items..

this is a draft i gave to paul today for the hydratube fitting for the v3.
also another revision request to the large donut cup
i also mentioned making the mouthpiece a perfect 18mm male shape
I don't have a large stock of revised medium cups so i have not made a ad yet on the site
please email me for those matt@ineedhemp.com
have a great weekend everyone..

Very excited about the prospect of multiple new options for mouthpiece / adapter tops for the v3

I think you told me the main difference with the 'revised' medium cups is that the air flow holes are higher up (a slightly taller tunnel?) to prevent oil leak-down

I've cleaned my medium discs a few times now, and oil leak down through the air holes is not much of an issue, but I see it could be if users over-load, don't cold-clear or finish their hits, or tilt the mod too much during use.

2 suggestions for the next generation of medium (and large?) cups for the V3: how bout reducing the ridge / gap between the medium donut as much as possible between the outside of the donut / inside rim of the cup?

As they currently are, there is nice sized gap between them, which, on the plus side, gives you plenty of space to move your dab tool in there to scoop up all the reclaim and semi-melted oil that accumulates there. But on the downside, that gap makes a "cool spot" where oil doesn't vape Maybe if we minimize that gap, that fallen reclaim can vape up without having to be scooped? Might loose the ability to squeeze a small tool in that gap, but could be worth it?

Also, about air-holes, instead of putting them under the donut, why not try putting 2, 3, 4 little air flow holes on the TOP of the cup, kind of like the shallow bowl cups for the v2.5?

Like I said, leakage seems to be more an issue through wire-lead holes rather than airflow holes, but maybe top air intake holes on the cup will provide a better swirl of air for better vape production without cooling the donut un-evenly, as much?


One more thing: on that hydratube you showed in your pic, if you're going to have a line of tubes made to your own specs: why not have the input slot for the v3 base just be a perfect, un-tapered cylinder, like the little pyrex mouthpiece adapters?

That way, you can just slide in the base of the V3 atty with the O-rings, no mouthpiece or adapter, and it would fit tight and snug with the hydratube, and you could pick it up from the top, by the hydratube, and the mod and donut atty would stay firmly in place, all parts attached?

This would be a purpose-made, custom hydratube for the V3 donuts, but that would be awesome! I'd buy 4 of them!

My only suggestion is to make the diffusion holes slits and not small holes. The small holes will most certainly clog after a few times of use. It's true that small holes are needed to properly form bubbles in that small tube, but it Will clog. Slits will make it take a hit in properly forming bubbles but worth it Imo. It's why real Hydratubes are the next step. Where slits will form proper bubbles in a bigger tube

For sure, slits are better than holes.

Take that out of context, can sound dirty

hydratubes

I vote for a simple Pyrex cap for the v3 base in the 2.5 style. It's very simple to adapt to a variety of female hydratube bottoms. Not all of them are exact 14 or 18 mm. A little piece of silicone or rubber tubing over the tip of the 2.5 style pointy cap adapts it to just about any female fitting. And I like transparent ;-)

I liked the pyrex caps for the 2.5 quite a bit, however I broke like 6 of them & now just use the ceramic caps. It's cool to be able to see vapor production though, especially when you're dialing in the settings. After one gets settings & technique stable it's pretty easy to use "blind," but watching the vapor form is still cool IMO.

Would you still use a Pyrex mouthpiece with silicon band instead of a glass on glass set up knowing that the glass setup would work? Personally, back in the day, I was thrilled when bongs evolved to a glass stem on glass bong without the orings and this adapter for the v3 gives me the same feeling.

I do agree that a Pyrex mouthpiece in the v3 would make it very easily adaptable to many other pieces though

I vote for both! I vote for all of them! I don't think we need to pick and choose here, it seems like Matt is trying to get multiple different options made for us; I don't think making one has to come at the expense of the other option not being made?

I like the idea of straight-glass tapered fittings / mouthpieces because they will provide a tight, easy to slide on&off fitting for a variety of large and medium sized, proper hydratubes, and my custom dab-bulbs also. These being larger, we presume the user would want to store the tube and mod seperately when not in use, so this slide on, slide off fitting is desireable.

OTOH... for the smaller tubes like the 14mm PPWT, I want to have a "sticky" joint or connection between the tube and the mod, so that when the tube is securely attached to the DT donut and mod with the mouthpiece and silicon strip, you can pick it up from the top (by the tube) and even swing it around and move it some...the mod does not fall out from the bottom.

I've been passing around my mini cubes and evic basics around the poker table with the 14mm PPWT glued onto the v3 base with the 2.5 cap and silicon adapters. I know it won't fall. The mod is actually much smaller than the tube so it makes sense to pass it by the glass tube. If we had a straight tapered 14mm glass fitting here instead, I would have to pass this contraption from the bottom, my friends receiving it at the mod, because if they grabbed it by the top, the mod would easily slide out underneath it, at the mouthpiece / adapter

Basically, both options would have good uses, and I'd buy several of each adapter for different purposes. If we do get basic pyrex mouthpieces for the v3 in the mold of the v2.5 cap, I hope the glass could be THICKER because I've broke a few of those mofos too (they're fragile)

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

Imo it's the most natural feeling way to add a water tool to the v3. For some reason using the dt donuts on a regular bong just doesn't feel right. It works wonderfully, don't get me wrong. It just feels off.

I highly recommend the use of Hydratubes to elevate your experience with the dt attys. I started with those little pen vape bubblers and it helped a little bit but it left a whole lot to be desired. The small bubblers would often times clog and the diffusion is lackluster at best. Hydratubes solve everything. Sure I'm not going to walk around with a hydratube but I wouldn't walk around with a little pen bubbler either. I actually have a hydratube that stays in my car that I keep in a wine bottle holder and another stays at home. I love these Hydratubes. I wouldn't put a rig in my car but this is basically the same thing filtration wise.

And if you wanna get technical, larger water pipes are meant for flower. Oil rigs are suppose to be smaller so the flavors of the smoke/vapor from the wax won't get stale. Some even say there should be diffusion but not too much or else flavor is degraded. These aren't the reasons why I got mines but if you wanna get pretentious about it...

Interesting to take us on a bubbling-retrospective here, Steve...and to what feels natural?

From my personal experience, I wasted my health and youth smoking lots of j's and blunts, and never had any glass pieces or pipes until long after I ruined my health and had to switch to vaping, and as soon as I tried dabs on a rig and got my first shitty wax pens about 4 years ago, I instantly wanted to hook it up to a dab rig for bigger, easier, cooler hits. Got my first rig, plus a little glass elbow adapter and PVC hose took me very far, for very long time and my setup has adapted alot, but the same basic motion of holding a TC mod in one hand (right hand for me) and the rig on the left hand has stayed. When I think about it, it's a rather odd, unique arm and body position for vaping, not like many other devices or combos

When using these dab rigs in their intended method, people tend to sit the rig on the table, and have their arms at chest / neck level, holding their tool with their dab in one hand and the carb cap or swivel in the other? Not at all like my posture.

Compared to how you use it, with a straight hydratube with the mod plugged in directly at the bottom: I presume you hold the mod and button with one hand, and hold the tube up straight with the other hand. This position is more familiar to most people, similar to using a conventional flower-combusting bong. Hold the piece in one hand, lighter to the bowl in the other. This is why most people might consider this setup "natural" but since I never got into the whole 'combusting in a bong' thing, this position is not automatically "natural" to me.

Don't get me wrong, for sure it works, just as well as using a dab rig with donuts. The main 2 things I didn't like about using large hydratubes with DT donuts is that I can't see the screen when it's in use, and the position didn't feel "natural" to me since I was already used to hitting donuts on rigs with adapters.

And as far as diffusion, percolation, what type of rigs work best for what...I think I agree with you that the minimum amount of perc necessary is best. I must concede we lose a little bit of flavor and active compounds from our water, but the cooling and bigger hits makes it worth it!

All my rigs have only single percolators, and I've learned and found the proper minimum water level on each. On some rigs, adding as little as 2-3ml too much extra water can kill the airflow and your cloud production. On that note, I think the tube you posted that has 2 or 3 percs wouldn't be suitable for the DT donut, they're more for the 1000*C hot nails making super hot smokey vape...those kind of setups can benefit from extra perc'ing...and ash catchers....

The companies selling terpene blends in bulk to "enhance flavor", and their clients, are like the guys who made "15 year old single malt scotch" in 50 gallon drums during alcohol prohibition. IMHO we very simply don't need more fake crap.

I can't stand reintroduced terpenes. Leave Mother Nature alone. I say learn how to extract proper and keep the terpenes. It never tastes right when they try to ad it back into co2 and distillates.

While I'd generally agree with you, yes...I don't want any added terps in my oils, I want as much of a complete, full-spectrum extraction as possible, but let's put this into perspective.



Some of us are sitting here in california, and other legal states, and some of us have incredible access to lots of great, quality, safe, lab-tested medicine, and other various grades of concentrates.

However...so many people live in states with horribly backwards cannabis laws, and quality concentrates, let alone any concentrates...can be very hard, nearly impossible to come across?

Due to scarcity and prohibition, many people in these states are making concentrates at home, from marginal materials like vaped flowers, marginal trim, reclaim, and who-knows-what, using equipment you can get from home depot, in their kitchen. This crap doesn't even have the terps to begin with, and the ways they're extracting sure won't capture them.

Don't you think for these less-than-ideal concentrate conditions, the use of well-formulated, properly dosed, pure and diverse terpene mixers can provide value and improve oils?

I'm not trying to advocate dropping tons of fake terps in our good oils we got here, just trying to put us in other people's shoes?

Strong work on the vape tank setup there @Vape Donkey 650 ! Gonna have to try that out myself. I've got a cubis pro mini that I don't really use, just gotta pick up one of those RBA coils & some CO2 oil.

Glad you found it interesting. If you do attempt the co2 oil on the cubis pro mini tank, I would recommend to use the default, skinny "BF" coils for SS, Ti, Ni, etc, rather than the "RBA" coils.

They aren't marketed as rebuildable, but if you know your way around a 510 pin, the regular coil casings can be rebuilt. And the RBA coil has a much thicker top part, which gives you a tiny crack to feed oil into the top of the tank. The regular coils are a tad skinnier, giving you a bigger space to feed the oil down into.

Also, if you can't get your co2 oil in a syringe or plastic dropper capsule, I wouldn't even attempt it..."scooping" it in, bit by bit takes forever

Yep, first one I opened up and the thing had just straight exploded into a million pieces, cup too, was crazy! Was only at 310 TC on a eleaf40 on that one. Second one I just accidentally broke one of the wires while cleaning. Doh . The third one I broke during cleaning aswell, but this time I had it on 500 tc trying to burn off some gunk from some real low low low low low grade wax I had, broke right in two

Long story short I say they where all user error and there are defintly no hard feelings! I love this thing, just need to know how to get a new one to get her back up and running like new

D'oh! USER ERROR! The main mistake you made here is trying to clean it in TC mode on the istick 40W. This little mod always hammers in 40w from the start in TC, and stays there too long. And the TCR curve for TC-Ni vastly under-reports the temperature of the donut. So if you're bringing the donut to glowing-red temps @ 40w, the donut won't survive for long.

On other mods that let you set the watts in TC mode, it's ok to clean it in TC mode: set the max watts to around 16-20W for the large donut.

For istick 40-watter's and others with VW mods or non-adjustable TC mods, just burn your large donuts clean in power mode, not much higher than 20w.

And for the medium donuts, I've found you can burn them clean with as little as 10-11w, just like the small 7mm donuts. I think I broke a medium donut by burning it too high at 13-14w, and the wire was brittle by the solder after it cooled. It still read proper resistance, but when I tried to push the brittle wire through the tight hole in the cup, (at an angle, not perfectly straight) it snapped at the solder My first breakage with the V3 lineup so far, not too bad

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

sigh...why must posts be limited to 10000 characters? To shame chronic over-posters like myself into silence?

Nevur.....

So a while back I've also posted about how tcr 245 doesn't really jump into temp protection but floats around 360F or so for me. Like OF and a few others have mentioned, tcr 245 does kick you in the face a bit at times. I thought it was maybe the larger donut but now hearing everyone else's accounts, tcr 245 may be a bit off. I just started messing around with it more lately and have had great success with tcr 225, 22w, at 420F. It hits temp protection pretty quickly at tcr 225 actually. Still more experimenting to be done. I need to try tcr 235 or something like that next. I tried the same settings @tcr 160, 170, and 180, but I did not like the results. Funny, seems there are wide ranges of tcr's that people like, much more than on the v2.5.

First off, I'm enjoying my V3 but am now changing the settings some. I was using an m value of 245 (same as V2) at 18 Watts with some serious success. Than I noticed it was always 'getting away with me', that is overwhelming me with big production, and I was 'hitting the chicken switch' (shutting it down mid hit) because of it. I was never reaching temperature limit!

Even though I had TC selected, I was really 'only' running in VW mode (at 18 Watts). I had to lower the set temperature down into the 'mid 200s' to get it to limit before I did. It was just getting too hot too fast. So I've 'inched' the settings back. I'm now using 170 as a TCR value, keeping the 18 Watt limit and finding it reaches 'temperature limit' more or less on time. Right now I'm using 370F, not my usual 390, so I may end up backing the m value down a bit more so that agrees with the setting on V2/2.5.

I don't think I was clear enough, I think the TCR value I was using didn't matter at all. The combination of TCR and target temperature (they go together) never was taking control in my case (and I suspect others?).

I was basically running in VW mode, not TC. Had I held the button down I'm sure it would have gotten too hot in short order.

Now I can reach 'temperature limit' with V3 like with V2/2.5......IMO a good thing.

OF

I'm gladly smug you guys have come around to these conclusions It's ok if some guys like it hotter than others, and we're all free to use our mods as we wish, with whatever settings we like...

but if we set unrealistically high temp targets and insufficient wattage levels, or the wrong TCR with those other 2 #s, you're pretty much using your TC mod in "VW" mode. The mod is supposed to reach protection and modulate the wattage lower than the max upon sensing coil Ω reach it's intended target. That is the whole essence and function of TC on box mods.

Regarding the TCR #s, I had a clean large donut in front of me. I haven't used TCR 245 since the first few days testing the v3, but I plugged 420F into TCR 245, and my IR gun spiked to well over 500F, 520F when reaching protection. At 360F, the max temps were... (guess what?) around 420F...spiking to around 425 and hovering in the 410's. So if we presume that TCR 245 is accurate on the small 7mm donuts, and that's the temp you liked on those...well..horray Steve! you've kinda translated that sweet heat spot you like over to the large donut now, with 360F

As for "picking" a TCR #, I'm firmly with fern on this position; that I want a TCR # to make what the temperature on the screen says to correspond with the actual temperature of the donut. If you give it enough wattage, you can get the same results with different TCR #'s and different target temps, (the relative rise of the coil Ω is what really matters, and why looking at joyetech screens helps alot) but then what's the point of using TCR mode, other than to be arbitrary, or to call up a certain # that you've grown attached to, to make vape, even if it's not an accurate reflection of real coil temps?

I know some of you guys like to maximize the lifespans your donut heaters and attys, and therefore would use the lowest watts possible in TC modes. With the sturdiness and easy replace-ability of the large donuts now, I would humbly suggest experimenting with higher wattages in TC modes, if you already know what the TCR/Temp combo or Ω rise of the coil that you prefer. (with it actually hitting protection) I think it's well established now that the large donuts can survive well in the 30-40w ranges in TC modes so you don't have to wait forever for protection, maybe even while fighting against your airflow?

Steve earlier said he didn't like TC wattages higher than 25w or so in your early testing, but if you were setting a high temp target with a moderate wattage and not even coming close to protection, (and a TCR # too high) you were really just "kicking yourself in the face" with VW-style, hot-combusto-vape. It wasn't the wattage that was bothering you. It was the failure to reach a too-high temp target and a watt level still hot enough to cherry the donut red.

It's only supposed to see that max wattage during a relatively rapid warm up time.

Now if you only call up 350 or 360F with TCR 245, and use even 30 or 35w, it should only discharge at max watts for 4-5 seconds before it dials down anywhere between 10-25w or so, depending on many factors.

Otherwise, V3 is very impressive, guys should try them even if you're happy with the current ones. They are different in action as well as scale. IMO you should keep the goods on top, avoid letting any pool up under the doughnut.

Agreed on all points... we surely want "the goods" on top of the donut, not under it, but with repeated use it seems inevitable that oil, fresh or reclaim, finds its way under there. My efforts to avoid this has been precise placement of the oil on the disc, (no sloppy loading in the center hole like the 2.5) not over-loading it (too much) and not letting the donut warm up for too long before drawing breath over it (no more than 2 seconds of heat with no breath for the large donut)

Do you have any other tricks for keeping the oil on top? I think it will take revised cups to get a better handle on this issue?

Edit: @OF , would the Eleaf iStick ASTER Mod 1-75W TC do the job OK?

I'm not OF, but the aster mod is a fairly standard, current eleaf TC mod with TCR, variable settings and modes, and you can put whatever 18650 cell in there, not just the one they show on the eleaf site. I haven't used this one, but being that all the joyetech / eleaf (+other brands) seem to use the same chipset, I would imagine this one works just as well as the rest. The main selling point here seems to be the odd shape, to be different from every other boxy mod with rounded corners.

I'm sure it will work fine with the DT 2.5 / 3.0, why don't you get one and let us know how it works?

We'll even hold your hand and tell you what settings to put in when you get it.

@Vape Donkey 650 - this is exactly my problem with TV mode on my vt75 so far. Every cold fire kicks out of TC mode. No matter whether I unscrew, replace and select "new coil" - however, if I switch to wattage profile, preheat to .62 or so 2-3 times, and switch back to my TC profile it works just fine, until it goes off. My cold resistance has not changed, but that's what I initially expected. I am having varying results by changing my preheat settings. Longer preheat is helpful. Setting it @22w for 5s with punch 1 allows me to avoid the whole preheating process, and it stays in TC. I'm typically using 3s for my preheat time though - I am going easy on my last coil until more are available (waiting for those black v3s to come in!). I also want to mention I'm back to the power I was using on the dna40 - 18.6w. It heats up in less than 2s (after preheat) so that's why I was saying "near instant" before - but with my 3s preheat it technically takes ~5s to heat up. That's enough for me, but it isn't really instant.

Good post - I think the problems I was describing was more what @looney2nz was experiencing - I've had problems of the base resistance drifting a few times for those 2 precise reasons (oil foiled post or loose screw), but I know how to deal with it. Besides that, I can just pick up any of my mods and fire away on them, although I usually check the temp first since I adjust it for beginning & end of the session.

With the coil Ω locked in, the worst I'm having is wattage fluctuation and temps being off with the resistance being off, but no jumping out of TC. It seems like the DNA mods are pretty sensitive and finicky, or they just behave that way with DT attys?

A while ago we had a guy, @CloudCat, come in here when the Sai atty was the newest thing, and he told us how some hohmwrecker TC mods were allowing TC mode with kanthal wires! (amazing!) but it was finicky - you had to turn the mod on & off to TC kanthal often, remove and re-install the coil, "test" the coil or adjust settings to TC kanthal; you couldn't just set it, put it down, pick it up and use it repeatedly - it had a process, that turned me off. I hope all DNA mods aren't this sensitive with TC and the new v3s?

 

[1DMF]

I'm sure it will work fine with the DT 2.5 / 3.0, why don't you get one and let us know how it works?

We'll even hold your hand and tell you what settings to put in when you get it.

OK, you're on. Aster mod has been purchased and I await delivery.

I just hope I win the bid for the V3 atty on ebay, else I'll have nothing to use it with.

Though I guess I could use the Yocan donut / atty and see if I can get better results with a mod rather than the supplied battery that heats up too much and burns the rosin too easily.

Either way I'm, definitely going to need some hand holding, I'm currently bamboozled by all the acronyms and jargon. Amps, Ohms, Watts, Volts... never could get my head around electricity!

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

Nice! If that's gonna be your first TC mod, and you already have a nice collection of dabbing attys, I can easily foresee more TC mods in your future. It helps that you can buy them for about 30-50 bucks, while so many other "wax pen" companies are selling un-regulated, 900mah "variable voltage pens" for about that price...or more... what a rip off

Good luck with the auctions...i've bought way too many of these V3s to wait and play around with that

TC mods can have a bit of a learning curve, but I really think if you're not a moron, or way too medicated at the moment, and you can learn, it's not much. I didn't know what a milli-ampere-hour was 2 years ago And it's not just for DT donuts...any vape atty with a good wire composition can use TC modes, and benefit...not as much of that "heats up too much and burns" type stuff

Look at the posts and the activity on the DT thread, and every other thread in the e-cig based portables section, and compare the levels of discourse...it's like checkers and chess It's really a mystery to me why all companies pushing vape-pen atty's aren't rushing to embrace temp control...it vastly improves their products. Maybe these other companies do take their customers for morons Maybe they're just not sold on it, or don't want to deal with the likely increase in customer service time they need to spend in teaching customers how to use TC or troubleshoot TC problems.

But I can see why they would get a bare-bones 40w TC mod made for them and call it their own, and overcharge the shit out of it

 

[Steven]

I actually yhink the even space around the outside perimeter of you donut to the housing is a good thing. I think @Vape Donkey 650 is overthinking that situation. I have noticed with donuts in the past that crooked placed donuts with no empty outside Ridgeline
Causes crusting and easily lets loaded vape touch the side walls which doesn't get vaped. I vote to keep the empty space around the donut. I don't have an issue with the air holes but the lead posts holes still needs revision. The medium cup iS an improvement with smaller lead holes but it's not perfect yet

And without writing an essay on what is a natural feeling, here it is. I actually thought it was obviously clear. I hit my hydratube using one hand holding the mod. Just as how I would hit it straight from the cap. That is what I call natural. Close to its original form of use. Hooking the v3 up to a rig is definitely more steps and cumbersome positions. I can get up and walk around with my hydratube while hitting it. Hitting while driving is a breeze too. Try that with a "natural" rig set up. Blah blah blah let's hear the hazards of what I'm doing

Edit
All this talk about the donut makes me forget that the cup is in the near future somewhat. That thing would solve all our worries it seems

 

[whatavape]

Now that I finally have some time, here is where I am at with the v3, and my current settings and setups...

What emissivity settings have you all been using for the ceramic heaters? Obviously it isn't the most precise measurement tool, but should be close enough for my purposes.
I'm planning on getting a DNA mod for this stuff early next year as well. Those custom curves look appealing. I'd do it now but too many irons in the fire at the moment!

I'm using e=0.6, I believe @fernand is using 0.5, and our results that are comparable seem to agree relatively well. Watch out, here comes my post about my dna75 trials and tribulations.....

I don't think I was clear enough, I think the TCR value I was using didn't matter at all. The combination of TCR and target temperature (they go together) never was taking control in my case (and I suspect others?).

Interesting that you have settled on 170 - my initial prediction was 1760 ppm (for Alumina w/ NiCr wire in the middle - my "educated" opinion on what the value might be), or TCR176. I believe many of the mods go by 5's, could any of your mods dial in at 175? Maybe this will be even better (even closer to actual temp)?

The curve I am using for my large donuts that came with my white v3's (**this is important and I'll get to it!) is a modified curve that started with the curve equivalent to TCR176. I originally created one that was slightly off of TCR190, but re-assessed after my preheat wasn't working too well. Here is my curve for the "old" v3 large donuts. See below why I call them old. These agree with my IR gun set at e=0.6 within 2 degrees C, since I aim for 200C (sometimes 210 when I am feeling higher temps).

This is my v3 "old" large donut curve. Tested thoroughly.

Good post - I think the problems I was describing was more what @looney2nz was experiencing - I've had problems of the base resistance drifting a few times for those 2 precise reasons (oil foiled post or loose screw), but I know how to deal with it. Besides that, I can just pick up any of my mods and fire away on them, although I usually check the temp first since I adjust it for beginning & end of the session.

Well, my vt75 will kick out when the post holes are "gunked up" and it is cold - when it is heated up, this goes away. The DNA75 chips are super sensitive to stable resistance - they are really good at TC, but rely on very stable resistances to do it. The gunk messes with the stability, from what I see. Loosening and re-tightening the screws on the posts clears this up for me, but necessitates a screwdriver being handy. So far, the vt75 stays at home, which is probably good since it is so large. I am also using an iStick TC40W that came from one of Matt's auctions, and a Tesla Stealth TC40. The Mrs is now using my minivolt, which she for some reason loves (even though it is more difficult to use with the v3...).

The 26650 is there for scale (diameter of about the size of a quarter). That's the spare battery for the vt75 - I am charging one battery every week on this thing, and using it almost exclusively at home. As you notice, the Tesla with the v3 is almost identical in height to the 26650... You can see I have the vt75 set to my v3 large profile, since it's at 18.6W. I use the medium donut on it at 12W.

I've created custom screens for most of the possible screens on the vt75 (at least the ones I will see for my usage). The first 3 shown are pulled from evolv's forums, and the rest are custom, with some symbols borrowed/derived from. Kanthal isn't used and for temp protection I have it show the reached temp, so I do not need a custom screen here either. I leave alone the new coil screen, because I want to see my measurements, and I haven't created a screen with holes in the right place yet.

Now, for the profiles I created for the different setups:

For the medium donut, the above is still in "testing" - with its own "profile screen" that tells me what it is!

And for the "old" large donut, again with a custom screen for the profile, and with my final settings. This is what I am sticking with.

And when I'm playing around and want to mess with TCR, I use this profile (wattage is currently set for use with medium donut but can be changed on the mod):

Since I just got the black v3's (and medium donuts) this week, I am still working on the curve for them. I am dedicating one black v3 to the Tesla TC40, which I use in the Ni setting at 13W with the medium donut. With temp set at 290F, I am getting a reading of around 375F with peaks around 380F, which is a little low, but this mod is less intuitive to use and that is "safe" enough for me, so I am sticking with it. It produces solid vapor for 2-3 hits after loading and then gets a few wispy hits before tasting dry. To clean the donut I turn it up to 15W (in VW, not TC-Ni) and pulse until it is white.

As for the eleaf iStick TC40W, I am using it in the TC-Ni setting at 280F. When in TC mode with this mod, you cannot select the wattage - it is automatically 40W until temp protect, when it is then throttled. This works wonders for my large donut, sorta functions like the DNA75 preheat in this way, and heats up way faster. These settings give me readings of around 395-405F, so I am happy. I tried a medium donut on here and POOF! Now, this is probably just me messing something up, because @divinetribe told me via email that he has used the medium donut with no issues. It should work, and I will test with another donut, at lower temp, but just a caution that it could blow a medium donut, since the wattage isn't adjustable in TC mode. Be careful, but it is workable.

I will continue to try out the medium donut on my vt75, and when I have a solid curve for it I will update with that, here.
[[Spot for v3M DNA TC curve....]]

Now for some weird stuff...
**Why is it important that these large donuts came out of my white v3's? Well..... now that I have ~15 or so donuts, I've done some serious fooling around. Something odd was noticed.... all 3 of my donuts that came with my first v3 (white) clocked in under 0.5 ohms. I recently won one of the auctions for another white v3 coupled with the eleaf iStick TC40W, and those also all 3 clock in under 0.5 ohms. I'm not sure if Matt asked for this, and I haven't run it by him yet, because I didn't realize.. but the "large" donuts that shipped with the black v3's are NOT the same! They all (I got 2 v3 black, or 4 of these "new" large donuts) clock in at exactly 0.63 ohms on my vt75. I have blown 3/6 of the "old" large donuts, but of the 3 left, I have tested two extensively, and both still clock in under 0.5ohms (0.45 and 0.47), even on the same (unused) base that now shows 0.63 ohms for the "new" large donuts. So, what's going on??

Well... I think they have a different coil inside! Yikes! More unknowns! I can tell that they are different, because on the "old" large donuts, I cannot see the coil inside. On the "new" ones, I can! Can anyone else (@Bad Ocelot I know you have both, and anyone else with both too) comment on anything you've noticed about the "new" large donuts? Are you getting a different base resistance?


Now... for the WEIRD stuff... (to come in the morning.... cause I am too vaked by this point to go any further...)

At @fernand 's suggestion for a good v2-alike to use with the crucibles, I set out to find one with the shallow bowl that looks like his. I found, accidentally when the glue at the base failed, that the model I found on eBay... it's totally rebuildable - but since I haven't torn apart an authentic v2, I'm wondering if anyone else has seen anything like this, with a genuine unit or an "alike." This is super weird, but I'll add some photos in the morning!

Edit: Saw @Steven 's edit about the cup heater.. Matt sent me some autocad previews and it looks pretty good so far. It appears like there will be 2 sets of airholes near each other like on the v2.7 base on the inside. I don't know how this compares to the v2-alikes some of us have, but I like the airflow of those (which are 4 separated by 90 degrees, instead of two pairs)

 

[Bad Ocelot]

Haha, indeed @Vape Donkey 650, slits>holes

Now that I finally have some time, here is where I am at with the v3, and my current settings and setups...


I'm using e=0.6, I believe @fernand is using 0.5, and our results that are comparable seem to agree relatively well. Watch out, here comes my post about my dna75 trials and tribulations.....

Thanks a bunch! Planning on testing out some unused donuts tonight or tomorrow, will be interested to see the actual temps.

Well, my vt75 will kick out when the post holes are "gunked up" and it is cold - when it is heated up, this goes away. The DNA75 chips are super sensitive to stable resistance - they are really good at TC, but rely on very stable resistances to do it. The gunk messes with the stability, from what I see. Loosening and re-tightening the screws on the posts clears this up for me, but necessitates a screwdriver being handy. So far, the vt75 stays at home, which is probably good since it is so large. I am also using an iStick TC40W that came from one of Matt's auctions, and a Tesla Stealth TC40. The Mrs is now using my minivolt, which she for some reason loves (even though it is more difficult to use with the v3...).

The 26650 is there for scale (diameter of about the size of a quarter). That's the spare battery for the vt75 - I am charging one battery every week on this thing, and using it almost exclusively at home. As you notice, the Tesla with the v3 is almost identical in height to the 26650... You can see I have the vt75 set to my v3 large profile, since it's at 18.6W. I use the medium donut on it at 12W.

I've had similar issues with the screws & clogged post holes kicking mods out of tc, glad it seems to consistently be an easy fix. Also glad to see someone else using a Tesla in Ni mode! I've been using my 2.x's on Tesla nano 60w's & have been very happy with them. I didn't know they had a stealth with TC, gonna have to pick up one of those. It looks sharp with the black v3 in there too. I see they also have a stealth 75w with a replaceable 18650... hmmm... decisions decisions...

Now for some weird stuff...
**Why is it important that these large donuts came out of my white v3's? Well..... now that I have ~15 or so donuts, I've done some serious fooling around. Something odd was noticed.... all 3 of my donuts that came with my first v3 (white) clocked in under 0.5 ohms. I recently won one of the auctions for another white v3 coupled with the eleaf iStick TC40W, and those also all 3 clock in under 0.5 ohms. I'm not sure if Matt asked for this, and I haven't run it by him yet, because I didn't realize.. but the "large" donuts that shipped with the black v3's are NOT the same! They all (I got 2 v3 black, or 4 of these "new" large donuts) clock in at exactly 0.63 ohms on my vt75. I have blown 3/6 of the "old" large donuts, but of the 3 left, I have tested two extensively, and both still clock in under 0.5ohms (0.45 and 0.47), even on the same (unused) base that now shows 0.63 ohms for the "new" large donuts. So, what's going on??

Well... I think they have a different coil inside! Yikes! More unknowns! I can tell that they are different, because on the "old" large donuts, I cannot see the coil inside. On the "new" ones, I can! Can anyone else (@Bad Ocelot I know you have both, and anyone else with both too) comment on anything you've noticed about the "new" large donuts? Are you getting a different base resistance?

I've only tried the medium donut that came with the black v3, will have to check the large to see if they have different resistance. I do recall Matt saying they were working on multiple resistance setups though. I'm curious as to how they're modulating the resistance. Different gauge wire perhaps? I'll check the resistance on a clean "new" large donut this evening. I'll go ahead & venture a guess that it'll be slightly over 0.6Ω. My og large donuts are all <0.5Ω.

Strong work on the evolv stuff. I look forward to revisiting it once I get a DNA mod. Seems like they're a bit temperamental but i'm thinking the improvements in the cup design & eventually the cup heater will eliminate most of the problems.

 

[jeffzz421]

Hey guys. I've been trying to get my first acct confirmed to post to this thread but alas, here I am. I gotta say I love the v3, however now I seem to have constant issues with leakage, causing the donut to then not heat evenly, causing TC mode to not really work etc. I think the med donuts are the answer to that, and I can't wait to get a few of those.

But I wonder, I think the leakage on the v3 may be worse due to the fact the donut has that bead of solder on it, causing it to not sit fully flush with the dish hole. Anyone think that may be part of the issue?

 

[whatavape]

Haha, indeed Thanks a bunch! Planning on testing out some unused donuts tonight or tomorrow, will be interested to see the actual temps.


I've had similar issues with the screws & clogged post holes kicking mods out of tc, glad it seems to consistently be an easy fix. Also glad to see someone else using a Tesla in Ni mode! I've been using my 2.x's on Tesla nano 60w's & have been very happy with them. I didn't know they had a stealth with TC, gonna have to pick up one of those. It looks sharp with the black v3 in there too. I see they also have a stealth 75w with a replaceable 18650... hmmm... decisions decisions...

I am curious as to what your results will be - I am most interested in your temp readings/ settings with your Tesla Nano. This is the mod I was planning on getting the Mrs for the holidays, as it looks like a good candidate and I like my Tc40 which has a similar chip/ firmware. I didn't know that they had a Stealth with TC either until I checked out their site when I was looking for info on the Nano. It's marked "new" and I can only find it for sale in a few places. It seems to be popping up on a few more vape sites now than when I bought it, but keep an eye out. I see it available for ~$30. I think you might mean the [URL='http://www.teslacigs.com/design/stealth70w.html']Stealth 70W[/URL], which also appears to be new (not much info I can find - no reviews really). I am curious if this will have the same issue that the regular Tesla Stealth would have for these guys... the original Stealth is regulated but you cannot set the wattage, much like the eLeaf iStick TC40W, except a high enough wattage to kill our donuts. 75W would likely kill them too, so that worries me. The Stealth 70W at least has VW mode so it could be used there bare minimum. If it shares the TC setup of the Stealth TC40, then wattage will be customizable in TC mode, which is what we need. I do like the replaceable 18650, but honestly so far the LiPo in the TC40 is holding strong. It's been charged about every other day, and is my main vape when out and about. I also occasionally carry my Pax 2, but no other concentrate vapes.

I too like the v2's on my Tesla. I started with those (the one I found to be rebuildable - I will cover that later tonight) and switched to the black v3 when I got them. I like this setup better, since I can reload it more easily. Just pop off the cap and load.

[QUOTE="Bad Ocelot"]
I've only tried the medium donut that came with the black v3, will have to check the large to see if they have different resistance. I do recall Matt saying they were working on multiple resistance setups though. I'm curious as to how they're modulating the resistance. Different gauge wire perhaps? I'll check the resistance on a clean "new" large donut this evening. I'll go ahead & venture a guess that it'll be slightly over 0.6Ω. My og large donuts are all <0.5Ω.

Strong work on the evolv stuff. I look forward to revisiting it once I get a DNA mod. Seems like they're a bit temperamental but i'm thinking the improvements in the cup design & eventually the cup heater will eliminate most of the problems.[/QUOTE]

I remember Matt saying that now that you mention it, this may be the case. I don't think wire gauge is different, but I think maybe the wrap patter has changed. The "old" large donuts appear (when hot) to be a double-coil - two coils in parallel if you will. The coil of the "new" large donuts, when quartered, looks sorta like an ohm symbol ([B]Ω[/B]) - as if there are four connected to make a sort of clover leaf. But then this symbol is "smashed" down and elongated to fit inside of the donut. Hopefully that is a good visual. I will try to capture what I am seeing with my eyes - hopefully the lighting is sufficient for my camera. In my tests so far, these don't work as well with my custom curve for the large donuts. They work better than the medium ones do, but not quite as well as the originals. They all seem to work @TCR176, though, so I will suggest setting that curve for now for DNA devices. Note that for my custom curve, the slope is equivalent to TCR176 across the vape temp range, which is why TCR176 works well, but is a bit low on temps. TCR190 also works but temps are a little hotter than expected. Somewhere in this range is probably best if you can't create a custom curve.

[QUOTE="jeffzz421, post: 1042542, member: 31771"]Hey guys. I've been trying to get my first acct confirmed to post to this thread but alas, here I am. I gotta say I love the v3, however now I seem to have constant issues with leakage, causing the donut to then not heat evenly, causing TC mode to not really work etc. I think the med donuts are the answer to that, and I can't wait to get a few of those.

But I wonder, I think the leakage on the v3 may be worse due to the fact the donut has that bead of solder on it, causing it to not sit fully flush with the dish hole. Anyone think that may be part of the issue?[/QUOTE]

I don't have a lot of leakage, but I load very small amounts. You will get some leakage into the post holes and a bit through the air holes in the cup, but this can be minimized with small loads. How much are you loading at once?

My donuts sit absolutely flush and I haven't noticed an issue. They are raised above the air holes, otherwise the air holes wouldn't function! I think there is definitely some natural leakage and maybe the cup heater would be better for you. I think the medium donuts leak less (so far for me), but again, small loads. Those have smaller post holes and airholes and also eliminate the inner lip that gunks up, and as you can read on the last few pages we were all very excited for them to arrive!

 

[jeffzz421]

I am curious as to what your results will be - I am most interested in your temp readings/ settings with your Tesla Nano. This is the mod I was planning on getting the Mrs for the holidays, as it looks like a good candidate and I like my Tc40 which has a similar chip/ firmware. I didn't know that they had a Stealth with TC either until I checked out their site when I was looking for info on the Nano. It's marked "new" and I can only find it for sale in a few places. It seems to be popping up on a few more vape sites now than when I bought it, but keep an eye out. I see it available for ~$30. I think you might mean the [URL='http://www.teslacigs.com/design/stealth70w.html']Stealth 70W[/URL], which also appears to be new (not much info I can find - no reviews really). I am curious if this will have the same issue that the regular Tesla Stealth would have for these guys... the original Stealth is regulated but you cannot set the wattage, much like the eLeaf iStick TC40W, except a high enough wattage to kill our donuts. 75W would likely kill them too, so that worries me. The Stealth 70W at least has VW mode so it could be used there bare minimum. If it shares the TC setup of the Stealth TC40, then wattage will be customizable in TC mode, which is what we need. I do like the replaceable 18650, but honestly so far the LiPo in the TC40 is holding strong. It's been charged about every other day, and is my main vape when out and about. I also occasionally carry my Pax 2, but no other concentrate vapes.

I too like the v2's on my Tesla. I started with those (the one I found to be rebuildable - I will cover that later tonight) and switched to the black v3 when I got them. I like this setup better, since I can reload it more easily. Just pop off the cap and load.



I don't have a lot of leakage, but I load very small amounts. You will get some leakage into the post holes and a bit through the air holes in the cup, but this can be minimized with small loads. How much are you loading at once?

My donuts sit absolutely flush and I haven't noticed an issue. They are raised above the air holes, otherwise the air holes wouldn't function! I think there is definitely some natural leakage and maybe the cup heater would be better for you. I think the medium donuts leak less (so far for me), but again, small loads. Those have smaller post holes and airholes and also eliminate the inner lip that gunks up, and as you can read on the last few pages we were all very excited for them to arrive!

My bad, I actually only have leakage through the terminal holes, not the air holes. I did overload a time or two I believe but after my last cleaning I was super careful not to. I loaded it up for maybe 3 god hits. Got 1, then a 2nd lousy hit, and then ive pretty much been repeating since then. I know that the atomizer kinda needs some as a coating before you start getting good efficiency (what I experienced with my stock, attached donut), but after cleaning that one a couple times and now trying a new one, it seems like no matter how little I load I get a good hit, then a lousy one, and then I had to load more, since its then pooling and leaking through the terminal holes. Maybe I just need to re attach it differently, but my last one seemed real tight on the terminal holes, and I didn't think I could re-do it any better.

My original attached donut worked like a dream, but since I took that off and cleaned it I have had this issue pretty consistently. Also, I do NOT tip it during use, which is another reason I can't figure out how the smallest initial loads are leading to leakage through the terminal holes.

 

[jeffzz421]

Also, I hope of course to just further our development and add to the conversation. I don't want my comments to be taken the wrong way, since as far as oil vaping, Matt and the gang have the best thing going since sliced bread! Thanks again everyone. I appreciate all the posts to this thread, as I didn't have to mess with my setup much, I just saw what works by reading up on it here.

 

[divinetribe]

Love the New Logo inserts for the PICO Upgrade,
Off to Hawaii to talk with Dr. Denney about trying to get this device to a "medical Grade Status"
off gas test results should be this week or next...
Peace

 

[jeffzz421]

I'm considering getting a v3 atomiser but don't currently have a battery mod.

Is the eLeaf iStick TC200W a good choice?

Also, what 18650 batteries should I get?

FWIW, since Im kinda late to the party, I love my eleaf ipower 80w, which I got for $36 to my doorstep from ebay.

 

[looney2nz]

Love the New Logo inserts for the PICO Upgrade,
Off to Hawaii to talk with Dr. Denney about trying to get this device to a "medical Grade Status"
off gas test results should be this week or next...
Peace

Matt, you have a link for the medium cup and 10mm donut as a v3 boxed set?

Sending my regards to Dr. Denny (which island is he on?). Have a grand time!

 

[Trever]

I'm unable to locate the medium donuts for the version 3 anyone able to post a link? loving it tons by the way! thank Matt!

 

[jeffzz421]

I'm unable to locate the medium donuts for the version 3 anyone able to post a link? loving it tons by the way! thank Matt!

Pretty sure you just have to shoot em an email or a pm. I don't think there is a public med donut link atm.