Divine Tribe atty's

Steven

Well-Known Member
I couldn't agree more with many of those commenting about the donut sizes. I can definitely get away with using less wax in the v2.5. I also can't wait for smaller donuts in the v3. I still would prefer to use the v3 because I can clean everything out pretty well. I actually just took a hit from a v2.5 while waiting for an oil change because all my v3's are fitted to adapt to Hydratubes. I loaded about 30-40% less and I feel like I got the same results accross the board. The smaller donuts and cups will be the daily drivers for me. Maybe I'll keep a large donut in my stay home mod for big hits at night. My only concern is that the air already cools the big donut down a lot, I wonder if this will be exaggerated with a smaller donut. Can't wait to experiment
 

divinetribe

We are trying our hardest to become Medical Grade
Manufacturer
@divinetribe should i keep refreshing the page today until they show in stock to order a v3? I dont see a way to add to my cart when they are out of stock.
Thanks!!!
please email me matt@ineedhemp.com and i will make you a paypal request for one..I am getting a very small amount in today I am eagerly awaiting for more stock my mid OCT.. China is on a NAtional Holiday all this week..
 

Vape Donkey 650

All vape, no smoke please.
sigh...so many vape projects, so much other life-stuff to do, so many new large donuts to break in and oil to vape?

I come home, and here's the new donut many of us have been waiting for? :brow: :luv:

6coeete.jpg


Just got these at my door today and started testing....medium donuts are ohming in around 0.6-0.7x, pretty close to our small donuts on the 2.5. I tried my imperfect IR gun to get a reading on the new donut, @ TCR 245, the IR was only about 10-20F higher than the screen on the mod, so I tried that. Maybe @fernand was right all along about the true (functional, donut+wire) TCR being a little lower than 245, but no matter that right now, I wanna test this and get good results.

Load it up, 25w (~3 second warmup time), 370F, TCR 245 :o wow....so nice. Gives a very nice, substantial cloud. I wanna say in between small and large sized donut clouds, for the load (uh-duh, thnx capt. obvious :D) but these are just my first impressions. Flavor very good too, and the TC performance seems pretty steady on an Evic (very little protection), moreso than the large :hmm:

The aftermath
8lG9nKO.jpg


Compared to an old v2.5 on my basic
DBr2SMQ.jpg


edit: You guys probably want to see the medium cup as well. On the bottom right, it has smaller air holes which are probably an improvement for overall performance. The air restriction compared to the large cups is evident when you draw on it, but it doesn't seem to be hurting cloud production. Might actually help....it is possible to have too much airflow and less vapor.

tzJqag0.jpg


The new airflow rates might make obsolete the "Steven method" of intentionally modulating your draw to be slower to let the donut heat more and make more vape. Maybe the best clouds can be drawn with a casual inhale? Like with everything now, it seems, more testing is needed :D

Also...I tried to rig up my own small donut V3 with a shallow bowl cup I ripped out of an old broken-open v2.5 base, mounted inside the large cup with the large donut removed, because without the large cup, the little one would just be floating in air, suspended by the wire leads screwed into the terminals

3m1adkl.jpg


I tested twice with smallish, 15-20mg-ish sized loads that would normally produce good hits on the 2.5.

Results: phail :mad: :bang: :(

As has been observed by some users recently, when your donut does not sit as low and flat as possible inside the cup, but instead stands up high in the cup, it will not produce any significant vape because the oil will fall down into the cup once heated and pool up there and maybe go down the wire holes into the base. If the donut is in the bottom of the cup, there is enough radiant heat to vape most of that fallen oil.

Having to make 2 sharp bends on the wire to get it to go through 2 cups and into the terminals, it is pretty much impossible to install the small cup into the big one and also have the donut sit at the bottom of the cup. :( So basically, don't bother with this. I'm sure Matt will make some good small size cups for the V3 and 7mm discs as soon as the mediums are completed to satisfaction. :tup: Then the dry herb version last? :brow:
 
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Vape Donkey 650

All vape, no smoke please.
Sorry, moderators, to spam everyone up with back-to-backs, these are some long posts :(


Are we even certain the donuts have a linear TCR? Theoretically one may imagine that the functional TCR of a ceramic donut heater may be complicated by the fact that the heater is not a homogeneous material. It is instead a complex of conductive metal and insulating ceramic, so you end up with two different functions combined. First, the shapes of these two functions may be different, along with their placement on the graph. Second, the way the two functions combine may be complicated.

Careful here, TCR is based on the temperature of the heater, not the doughnut. It senses the metal, not the ceramic (which is sure to be cooler by Thermodynamics). That loss (heat wise) is going to change with temperature, no doubt being more at first (until the rest of the atty warms up, conduction will be greater) and radiation plays a bigger role as temperatures rise.

It's important, I think, to not keep thinking in terms of XX Ohms rise when trying to understand how TCR is used. It's not the absolute change in Ohms, but the relative change in percent.

Yes, I think I follow you there: the TCR we put into our mods is intended to control only coil wire temps, and I think I follow you on the relativeness of the rise determining our TCR #, but as far as absolute rises in resistance, that is all I can observe on my joyetech's so that's what I'm working with.

Edit: TCR can also be expressed as 1760 PPM for alumina -- anyone tried 175?

I'm also sure that alumina has nothing to do with the TCR technique here. Alumina is an excellent insulator, it just doesn't conduct a significant current under any conditions we're dealing with. The exact same things happen with bare wire (no ceramics at all), right?

And yes, it's true that alumina doesn't conduct, nor is it the conducting mass in our donut. However, it is transferring the heat to our materials after receiving the heat from the wire embedded inside. It is relatively accurate to approximate the "coil" then as being made of alumina, since the resistance (of the actual coil) rises with temperature. The TCR value for the actual coil is likely in the low 200s, which may explain why I saw earlier that TCR 190 seemed to work well (in the middle of the two, since the "coil" would have an ideal TCR of 176). I think we will find that everything we can try is an "approximation at best," but it is extremely helpful to compare our estimates and measured outcomes. That is how we improve our technique!

It may not be "conventional" to model a change in resistance of an insulator, but it has proven to be a useful approximation, at least to me, given my circumstances (no TC mods).

So the wire (which is the only thing we can really (kinda) control with TC mods) is 240-ish, the alumina / ceramic donut is 175, even though it's a resistor and not really subject to the TCR formula as it applies to metal conductors? Or does it still?

Unless your donut is entirely different from mine, I respectfully doubt it's 370 degrees. To each his own, but I don't see the point of using a TCR value that makes the display have no relation to actual temperature.

Agreed, since the donut is doing all/most of the heating, that is what I want the number on the screen to reflect, not the temperature of the wire.

On issue #2, can we agree that what we want to control is the temperature that the oil is bubbling at? Temp will never be identical across the donut, and the donut-oil interface isn't ideal either. But let's pretend it is for now.

I disagree....or do I? :huh: Not sure if I follow you here, fern.

For sure, the ultimate goal here is to only boil/vape the oil, not to burn it, combust it, or degrade it through pyrolysis. I want this because it provides the best flavor and most efficient use of materials. For me, I even want to avoid degrading THC into CBN and catalyzing the creation of benzene (both above 390F) but I compromise those ideals to some degree because they interfere with big vape production. :(

I could be mis-interpreting you here, but if you want the #s on your screen to match the actual temperature your oil is being heated to, then no, that's not my goal with the whole TCR thing. Adding another layer of heat transfer can make this already imprecise quest more difficult. I just want my TC mod screen to reflect the donut temps; I know the temp of my donut resistor still must be alot higher than the necessary minimum temps for vaping due to the less-than-complete energy transfer between wire, to donut, to oil.



PS: For me at least, the exercise in Physics IS the part to enjoy! :brow: I'm enjoying the challenge of dialing this thing in on a VW mod, one that's small and convenient to carry with my V3, and since it's working well enough, no need to be hasteful in replacing with a TC mod!

Me too :nod: (but not the VW part) The ultimate enjoyment is still the smooth big satisfying clouds that result :o But from a guy that has no background in math, physics, engineering, etc, I'm having alot of fun conducting this "research" and learning alot from u guys. :bowdown:

It's too bad I can only conduct so many "experiments" with real actual loaded up donuts. :science: haha

I'm a low-moderate level guy...after 2 good donut loads vaped to completion...I need to take a rest and enjoy myself after a successful test :)

As far as scaling goes... it's much more effective and much easier to spend the few extra bucks on an IR thermometer with a variable setting, but if you (or @Vape Donkey 650) want to know how to scale it, PM me and I'll see how well I can explain it (depends on how medicated I am...)

I definitely think airflow is a primo factor here, since the TCR settings everyone is using are an educated guess, with tweaking at best. Because, at least on my two v3's, airflow is crazy compared to the v2.7's I've used. The v2.7's are much more restricted, so they will stay closer to target temp. Overshooting (setting a higher target temp) may help with v3's, since the cooling is so extreme. TCR is important, but what the mod is really regulating here is the resistance, aiming for a target resistance based on what TCR setting you tell it. The TCR is just a scaling factor, and I think you hit the nail on the head - the best way to figure it out is to keep testing! :science:

I think I'm with you there, the mod can only (and wants to) measure coil resistance changes with the TCR, not secondary resistors. We're throwing a wrench into the whole TC-mod idea with our ceramic heaters and we may have to cheat and fudge the TCR #'s to get what we want, but if we can tolerate a little imprecision and experimenting, we can get great results. I think that's what we're doing now?

It will be cool if future TC mods (joyetech firmwares?) incorporate new "ceramic" TC modes that might try to account for these issues with some re-worked mathematical modeling? :sherlock:

Oh yea, if you want to try and show me how to scale the readings of my basic, presumably 0.95 emissive IR gun, please do. But I probably could get some better instruments :|
WOWW~!

thanks matt @divinetribe . and thanks @Vape Donkey 650 , @fernand , @OF .. unbelieveable vape I just had on this V3 DT !

..using the VTCmini w/ TCR 190, 21W, 380ºF.... thanks. right out of the gate, you guys cracked the code lol. reminds me of the documentary i just watched about compaq trying to crack IBMs code. ha

vape on my friends :D
and may we continue this open source investigation :sherlock:

ha thanks :D Not quite there yet but we're working on it.

FWIW, @ TCR 190, I've settled on higher temps than I would use with the v2.5 @ TCR 245, as some have noted. 380, on most materials, feels a little light and wispy for my tastes, and I'm finding 390-400 to be a better starting temp for a good balance of flavor and cloud. Totally subjective, and variable, with other people's mods and oil types as well.

I finally got around to vaping some co2 oils on the new large donuts too, and I was disappointed with 380 and 390F :( Nice flavor but hardly any cloud. I need to do 420F with co2's to get a nice cloud now, and noticing most co2s give a little less cloud production and hits per load compared with shatters, just like with the 2.5, but is smoother and often tastier. Also super clean, I've had like 10 co2 loads on a large donut and it has no residue at all....but......

i had been hoping v3 worked like v2. Too bad, v3 has drain holes in the bottom of the cup under the donut, so if the temp doesn't climb fast enough, the entire load melts and drains down under the cup.

Yes this

That's why the instructions say to inhale as soon as you start pressing the button. Start your inhale slow to give it time to heat up, and speed up once the screen says temp protection.

Yes this too. With co2 oil, I was noticing much more fresh looking reclaim underneath the donut in the cup. Its low viscosity must be making it fall down under during the lengthy 4-sec warmup @ 32w. I've gone over to 40w for a quicker warming, and trying to start my draw earlier, getting better results, but still a work in progress....
 
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Vape Donkey 650

All vape, no smoke please.
Matt already produced a nice video showing you how to clean these things, pretty straightforward and easy. Thought I'd share my first cleaning from last week.

CNGRKhF.jpg


This is how it starts upon disassembly. IDK why imgur decided to flip this pic. :mental: I forget, maybe 6-8 big(ger than v2.5) experimental loads fouled this guy quicker than what I'm seeing now. You guys are seeing a similar small oil smudge around the rim / edge where the outer ceramic body touches the cup? (already scraped that part in this pic)

QXqtnhe.jpg


Noticing the beginning of a little oil seepage into one of the holes for the lead wires. Not sure if this problem is inevitable or can be avoided with better usage habits? Not sure how much more leakage I would observe on this atty if I continued to use it, as-is, from this point, or at what point it would affect performance of the mod/atty?

gNdvP9H.jpg


And a little reclaim pooling on 1 side. Was I holding my mod at a slight tilt during use, or maybe I loaded up one side more heavily than the other? IDK this would require more investigation. This grosses the hell out of fernand, but I scraped up this reclaim pool and put it back on the donut and re-vaped it and found it to be rather pleasant and tasty :D :p

I2Gs4XV.jpg


After isopropyl soaking and a little agitation with q-tips and a sharp tool, the cup easily came almost 100% clean. I tried torch-burning it clean with a mini torch to remove the slightest dark stain on the cup, but it had no effect, so I accepted it. I really love how easy it is to clean the cups now. It's real easy to burn clean a little 7mm donut to be pearly-white, but the way that it was so hard (impossible) to get the cups 100% clean on heavily used v2.5 bases was one of the main reasons I would put off cleaning them and just scrape and re-load instead. I would not easily tolerate cups discolored by oil burned during cleaning, (vape/kush OCD) so I would go through way too many increasingly less-fouled q-tips and never get the cups pearly white. No more. :)

v825AqL.jpg


We can burn our donuts clean without the cup and body, if we want. Maybe burning off the last reclaim that iso soaking can't remove (which isn't much) might foul up our newly cleaned cups?

If you do this, make sure not to let the terminals touch anything, and that you don't have any rings, jewelry, bracelets on, dangling, etc. With 2 exposed terminals open and many amps on tap at the accidental touch of a button, I'm sure plenty damage can be done :o

VVicUbE.jpg


I tried heat-cleaning in TC mode, backed down the watts to 20 to be nicer to the donut, several passes at 600F won't make it glow, but can remove a good amount of the char. But since it won't clean it all out, I don't think there's much value to burning clean @ TC mode. Maybe more useful on TC-Ni or at a much higher TCR #?:shrug:

IbRcQXK.jpg


Now we're glowing @ 21w VW

QHsQvuT.jpg


And after we're left with this. A few gray lines marks the donut as "broken in" and clean now, is this what you guys are seeing as well? Or can we finesse our donuts when burning them clean just before the point of cherrying red, to burn off all crust but not make gray lines? IDK maybe but doesn't really matter

rciyp7W.jpg


and all ready to go again :tup:
 
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Vape Donkey 650

All vape, no smoke please.
whew :o i'm almost done :rolleyes:

the V3 is very tempting at the reduced price, but i take baby dabs, and pretty much require the alumina cup setup for my personal preference

Maybe I take toddler sized dabs compared to you, but maybe the new medium sized donuts and cups can work better for your needs?

Awesome! I'm going to order like 30 of the cups & donuts. I hate cleaning.

ha...I know what you mean. :nod: Annoying but necessary. You may wanna hold up on the massive spare donut and cup purchase just right now. Looks like we may get a few tweaks in the design for it to be final.....

The 13mm donut on the V3 checks all the boxes for me- in the one hitter quitter category. But it's kinda overkill for use in the AM and for being at work, etc. With so much larger a donut, the V3 with 13mm is not designed to compete with the 2.5s from an economy standpoint. The V3 w 7mm or high-res 10, maybe. Thinking 10mm w medium or high resistance will be my favorite.

The 13mm is designed to blow your head off. Which it does. just got finished rockin dual 60s, on opposite sides of the donut. This fucker rips! deep and clean. Can get all of what's good out of that in 2 or 3 pulls. with no coughing, in tc, with no wick and no wire. That's awesome power to me. The 2.5s could never handle 120mg in a single go, as you all know.

Well said. Rockin dual 60s, I had to read that a couple times to get you. :DI think on the v2.5, ~40-50mg is about the maximum, responsible-sized load you could put on repeatedly and not experience leakdown if puffed on properly. I have no fancy mg scale yet (still), but I think the most I've tried on my large donuts is roughly "dual 40's"

E-40-Blunt3.jpg

20160317121250.jpg


no not those 40's. But I did get blasted, and it took me a few more reclaim hits to finish it up

I'm thinking a smaller donut isn't the answer, but a leak-proof cup. That way you could throw a .3 on there in the morning and have enough to vape all day without having to worry about leak issues (besides keeping it upright until it cools down).

You could do that, but I don't think that's using the V3 at it's finest. Don't you think the second half or so of the reclaim hits of that .3g would be pretty nasty and tasteless? :p :suspicious: With this type of usage, leakage will most likely be an issue without a redesigned cup


Problem I find with EVERY non layg is that you tend to heat the entire load at the beginning. This leave plenty of nasty reclaim to taint every hit after that. With that said, i do find myself over loading hoping to make it last. We need a happy medium. So far the V3 is filling that void for me. I think I am using mine differently than most. I load a fat bb and get like 10-15 medium hits after 1 initial monster hit.

Hey, whatever suits you, continue on with that trucking, my friend. :tup: :rockon:

I've been noticing some similar results, unintentionally, with excessive reclaim hits after a fresh load. This could be the result of repeated load-ups without full cleaning, the build-up of small reclaim bits in the cool spots, or my inconsistent loading and drawing practices. Too many variables right now still to say for sure why this happens....

@divinetribe besides the magnets or o rings to replace the screws, do you think it's possible to put some silicon bushings of some sort in the holes where the leads go through the cup? I tried to make some myself by it is too small for me to work with. I ask because it seems the only leaks appear to leak through the holes where the leads are going through. I think silicon bushings should keep a decent seal. If that's not possible because the holes are too small, it's something to maybe implement in future models. Like maybe make bigger lead holes in the cup so they can be fitted with silicon bushings? Just my 2 cents

I'm sure you'll keep Matt up at night thinking about possible ideas to eliminate leakage. I think I can accept minor, predictable leakage if the atty is used imprecisely, or only occurs after many, many reloads with proper usage. At least we can easily open it up and clean it now.

I got an idea that may help with the leakage:

Can we make the holes in the center of the donut smaller?

Big enough to let plenty of air flow past, but with a smaller hole to allow more space to load oil and not dribble and fall into the middle cool spot which is a no-vape's-land on the large donut?

I think when the oil melts and touches the outside rim of the donut/cup, that is the primary source of falling reclaim that eventually can seep into the holes for the wire leads. I haven't noticed any oil trying to seep down the much larger air holes on the large donut cups, even though they are raised up just like the smaller holes? But if you intentionally overload, it probably will leak through the air holes as well.

I think melting oil follows the path of the wire down the hole, but I just want to be able to drop a little bb of crumble or shatter carelessly in the middle of the donut like on the little v2.5 and have it vape well.

It seems like the hole in the middle of the medium donut is barely smaller than the big hole in the middle of the large. Maybe easy, center-donut hole loadups will be ok in the medium? :huh:
 
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fernand

Well-Known Member
Wow @Vape Donkey 650, I'm so happy to see your PASSION! I'm not saying this with any sort of irony. You really should just get a better IR thermometer, thirteen bucks!.

On the temp thing, remember that little boiling points chart? The blacks are terpenes, the greens are flavonoids. We still don't have a good idea of which components do what, but this is the general temp range of interest.

CannabinoidBoilingPoints3_zpsa37189f7.jpg


What I want the apparatus to do, is to allow the user to dial up say 380 degrees F, and have the stuff bubbling at about 380 degrees. Because the stuff that boils off below 380 has a more alerting effect and above 380 has a more sedating effect, based on trial and error. That's pretty basic, but a damned good start. At the very low temps below 350 it's a specific light effect that's different yet.

So we might want to be able to dial in exactly what we want at the moment, learn what strains and what temps do what, what's in tune with our personal endocannabinoid deficiencies. That's the reason for the interest in accurate reproducible temp and a delivery system like an interchangeable alumina cup with no mixing or goopy leaking. Make sense?

Unless you're just blasting it, how well it makes vapor is mostly just a matter of how air hits the bubbling oil.
 

whatavape

Engineering the stars since '01
Yes, I think I follow you there: the TCR we put into our mods is intended to control only coil wire temps, and I think I follow you on the relativeness of the rise determining our TCR #, but as far as absolute rises in resistance, that is all I can observe on my joyetech's so that's what I'm working with.






So the wire (which is the only thing we can really (kinda) control with TC mods) is 240-ish, the alumina / ceramic donut is 175, even though it's a resistor and not really subject to the TCR formula as it applies to metal conductors? Or does it still?
All materials have their own TCR values, it's just up to you to determine whether they would ever be useful. Some materials, like wood and ceramic, don't conduct. But often their presence can alter the dynamics of the whole system, and although imprecise, factoring the TCR of other materials can yield a better temp match on your outer surface. Sure, we may be able to find the TCR of the coil inside the donut, but that's not what's touching outlr material, and thus the mod doesn't reflect temperature of the outside of the donut, just expected temperature of the bare coil. We are pioneers here because typically the big hats aren't interested in "silly" approximations - they would tell us to just worry about the TCR of the wire. For many academics, it is all "ideal" and not so much "real," if you get the idea.

Adding another layer of heat transfer can make this already imprecise quest more difficult. I just want my TC mod screen to reflect the donut temps; I know the temp of my donut resistor still must be alot higher than the necessary minimum temps for vaping due to the less-than-complete energy transfer between wire, to donut, to oil.


...


Me too :nod: (but not the VW part) The ultimate enjoyment is still the smooth big satisfying clouds that result :o But from a guy that has no background in math, physics, engineering, etc, I'm having alot of fun conducting this "research" and learning alot from u guys. :bowdown:

...

I think I'm with you there, the mod can only (and wants to) measure coil resistance changes with the TCR, not secondary resistors. We're throwing a wrench into the whole TC-mod idea with our ceramic heaters and we may have to cheat and fudge the TCR #'s to get what we want, but if we can tolerate a little imprecision and experimenting, we can get great results. I think that's what we're doing now?

It will be cool if future TC mods (joyetech firmwares?) incorporate new "ceramic" TC modes that might try to account for these issues with some re-worked mathematical modeling? :sherlock:

Oh yea, if you want to try and show me how to scale the readings of my basic, presumably 0.95 emissive IR gun, please do. But I probably could get some better instruments :|

We are experimenters, and as I mentioned above we are pioneers here too, we are calculating values for our overall "coil" (donut and wire inside) when not all parts of the coil are actually conducting. And then there's the hot spots on the donut, so our approximation gets worse. We are definitely "fudging" our TCR, but in the spirit of OF, who cares, if it works!

If you're interested in better mods, with completely customizable TCR curves, dna200 devices (and new dna75 devices too) come with software from evolv called escribe. It's a great software (I helped work on it in early stages, but I really believe it is great!). I believe it is Mac and PC compatible, but was originally PC only - I'm back to a custom OS now, that's why I sold off my dna200s. The software allows you to customize everything, even the screen layout. They are also great mod chips, and both dna200 and the new dna75 are supposed to work. I don't and haven't owned any of the dna75's, but I have had plenty of dna200 devices and loved them. My next purchase will be a dna75 - maybe we can start building our own TCR curves for the v3 (and v2.x's). That would be our best option, now that I think about it!

I'll PM you about the IR gun. While I recommend a brand with certification, they are a bit more expensive and the link fernand posted should be well enough for your needs should you decide to upgrade.
 
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Bad Ocelot

Well-Known Member
I was just about to ask if anyone was using DNA powered devices for DT attys as I've been contemplating purchasing a couple (mainly for my nicotine vaping habit) but an actually accurate temp reading mini 510 enail setup is possible via that route, my wallet will be sore for a while, ha.
 

fernand

Well-Known Member
All of the controllers (or "mods" as most people call them) can only do so much. For us nerds, if you calculate a TCR in different temp ranges you get different values, meaning the slope isn't constant, as it might be with just a piece of wire. Also small errors in reading Resistance or Temp will throw things off, a lot.

Is there anything to suggest a DNA device can do it better than the Joyetechs?

It comes down to tweaking the mod TCR for each specific donut assembly AND for a specific temp range, and then re-checking the temp. As long as that works, and our display matches the oil temp, say between 300 and 500 deg F, we're doing great.

What we still need most is a fast and reproducible way to measure temperature, so we can pop a new donut atomizer on the mod, and be able to check/correct the TCR -- that's the one thing we can adjust. The IR gun with adjustable E can be thrown off by how dirty the donut is. Always using the same clean ceramic cup over the heater helps. It also averages out the heat. For a reference I've used a thermocouple in a cup with petrolatum, but it's a mess. Getting vaseline on the donut is a risk.

Any other ideas on how to get an accurate temperature reading?
 

Tranquility

Well-Known Member
I've been reading this thread while trying to work out all the math and concepts. I get some--at least in general. The specifics are more difficult.

I for one would love a thread on DNA and the Escribe software. I'm playing with my software as best I can to get good results for my Saionara. (Although, realistically, power mode alone will make it work well.)
 

zRG

New Member
Can anyone that has the Dry Herbs atomizer from Divine Tribe tell me if it is possible to has a Mouth To Lung drag? Or just Direct Lung?
 

divinetribe

We are trying our hardest to become Medical Grade
Manufacturer
Can anyone that has the Dry Herbs atomizer from Divine Tribe tell me if it is possible to has a Mouth To Lung drag? Or just Direct Lung?
direct lung to get a good hit
 
divinetribe,

fernand

Well-Known Member
The concept is becoming more popular. This vendor says these ceramic units cannot be used in TC mode. I've asked for details, we'll see what he says.
 

Steven

Well-Known Member
The concept is becoming more popular. This vendor says these ceramic units cannot be used in TC mode. I've asked for details, we'll see what he says.
I remember these guys were one of the first ones I've seen with a solid dish heater. Back then it was advertised to be used with both flower and concentrates. I'm actually interested in that bowl/cup heater. Anyway, even back then, these guys said not to use tc with their atty. I wonder if a cup can be used for future versions, or even a swapable cup and bowl heater combo for the v3. That is unless Matt already figured out the details of the side loaded double donut unicorn
 

whatavape

Engineering the stars since '01
All of the controllers (or "mods" as most people call them) can only do so much. For us nerds, if you calculate a TCR in different temp ranges you get different values, meaning the slope isn't constant, as it might be with just a piece of wire. Also small errors in reading Resistance or Temp will throw things off, a lot.

Is there anything to suggest a DNA device can do it better than the Joyetechs?

I'm not sure what type of TCR curve the Joyetechs use, if any (it may be linear), but with the escribe software, DNA devices have a fully customizable curve, so there's that. Since we are talking a more complex heating element than a simple wire (regular "standard TCR curve" from the manufacturer is designed to work with a bare or wicked wire coil), a customizable curve would be super helpful here IMO, but it would be a TON of trial and error, since we are working with a nontraditional system here (more than just a coil). I think I'll grab a dna75 next and get to work!
 

21stCenturyVape

Well-Known Member
Just got my V3 yesterday, paired with an evic vtwo mini. Ran some CBD sap through it using some of the different settings people have recommended and got some solid performance. Took the V3 apart to clean/inspect after running .25 g through it. Easy to disassemble and clean. Noticed a fair bunch of oil had made its way down through the lead wires into the posts below the cup. After using some other products out there like the Puffco Plus, I have to encourage a move toward some sort of cup/crucible style rather than a donut, in order to avoid leaks and maximize efficiency. As others have mentioned, this would require changes in the positioning of air inlets. Loading is also somewhat challenging. I would suggest building a loading tool onto the bottom of the mouthpiece/splashcup area that would basically suspend the oil right above the donut/cup. My 2 cents.
 
So I got my v3 recently, and I've been running my OA shatter through it. The new (large) donut gives me a more enjoyable experience than the v2 or v2.5 did, and I'm still in vw territory (20w). Thanks @divinetribe , this is a big step up in performance for me.

I'm very interested to try the other cups/donuts and perhaps TC in the future, but I find my large 0.5ohm donut to be doing a great job of staying in low temp zone and delivering satisfying, tasty clouds.

For what it's worth, I just pulse away, trying to avoid my 10s timeout, for about 20 seconds while drawing slowly. The older versions required significantly more attention to button feathering and "off" time mid-hit to get similar results, and the flavor was marred much faster. I roll an ultra thin oil snake out that covers a 1/2 or more of the donut. I think it's pretty close to the size I was using before (with older DT's), but haven't weighed my dose before... Maybe I'll weigh tonight and update.
 

Bad Ocelot

Well-Known Member
Finally got a chance to try out my V3, used it on an evic basic, TCR 245 at 390F & 28 watts. Got a nice terpy Platinum Blue Diesel PHO to break it in. Good results, though I felt like a lot of my first load ended up under the donut. 2nd try was more effective. Wanted to do more testing but was stoned to bejesus off the first two loads so it'll probably be tonight before I give it a go again. Definitely uses more wax than the 2.X, which has it's pros & cons. I definitely wanna try out the smaller donuts as I generally prefer to sip rather than gulp ;) I also have some of the small black ceramic donut wicks from W9, I may try and see if one of those helps prevent oil from going where it isn't wanted when I do round 2 of testing tonight.

I didn't initially think that the deep bowl would be difficult to load because it is also quite wide, but i found myself removing the ceramic piece that covers the base to load it both times. A magnetic closure or o-rings would certainly be helpful here. The screws aren't difficult to remove or anything, but it does get a bit tedious

Another thing that didn't occur to me at the time but that would be nice is some sort of adjustable air flow, though I don't know if that would be as easy to implement.

Definitely gonna try & pick up some of the new cups & donuts from Matt when they come in.
 
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AVENTUS

Well-Known Member
Wow @Vape Donkey 650, I'm so happy to see your PASSION! I'm not saying this with any sort of irony. You really should just get a better IR thermometer, thirteen bucks!.

On the temp thing, remember that little boiling points chart? The blacks are terpenes, the greens are flavonoids. We still don't have a good idea of which components do what, but this is the general temp range of interest.

CannabinoidBoilingPoints3_zpsa37189f7.jpg


What I want the apparatus to do, is to allow the user to dial up say 380 degrees F, and have the stuff bubbling at about 380 degrees. Because the stuff that boils off below 380 has a more alerting effect and above 380 has a more sedating effect, based on trial and error. That's pretty basic, but a damned good start. At the very low temps below 350 it's a specific light effect that's different yet.

So we might want to be able to dial in exactly what we want at the moment, learn what strains and what temps do what, what's in tune with our personal endocannabinoid deficiencies. That's the reason for the interest in accurate reproducible temp and a delivery system like an interchangeable alumina cup with no mixing or goopy leaking. Make sense?

Unless you're just blasting it, how well it makes vapor is mostly just a matter of how air hits the bubbling oil.
Great post man!
 
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