Divine Tribe atty's

[WKONE]

It seems many characteristics are exaggerated with the v3 from the v2.5. This time I'm talking about effects after cleaning. When fully cleaned the donut will need a few bowls before it will put out massive amounts of vapor. The v3 needs a bit more priming than the v2.5. The collected reclaim from previous bowls probably is what is giving off massive vapor later on but I like that. But I also like a clean donut so this will be a battle for me. It's just I gotta be prepared to get 3 wispy bowls or so if I clean the v3. I used to clean my donuts about 2-3 times a day, but it's probably gonna be once a day or every other day now with the v3

I think If you're using a nice clean extract with very little plant matter in, vaping reclaim doesn't even taste that bad. CO2 shatters are very good for this.

 

[Bad Ocelot]

Man, loving the reviews so far. Got my V3 over the weekend but was out of concentrates to test it with Made a quick batch of QWISO from some dry, non-melty bubble hash I have but it was too gunky to use in a DT... oh well, will hopefully have some proper concentrates to test out the V3 soon enough. Glad to see it fits on the pico, I was worried the larger diameter would preclude using mods like the pico & pico mega with that battery cap.

Good notes, I haven't cleaned any of mines yet.

For the ceramic cup, don't you think, that after soaking it iso and rinsing, you can burn it clean with a mini-torch (with the donut removed, of course) while you hold it with some tweezers to get the cup pearly white again?

Kinda like what @fernand is doing with his little crucibles?

And sorry fern, the airflow is coming straight from the bottom, not the side, so I don't think the crucible method will work with V3. But maybe someone should buy a ~ 10mm or so crucible and put it in their v3 and try it? There's plenty of space in there...

And speaking of inserts...I got the idea that maybe we can make a quick, on-demand convection flower vape out of the v3.0 donut if we try a little stainless steel insert for flowers?

These stainless steel dosing capsules for the volcano easy valve came out a while ago, and maybe if we drop one of these inside our new large donuts, and find the right settings, we can make a fairly cheap, effective convection vape out it?

It would be mostly convection, because this thing has copious airflow, coming in underneath the donut, it will be pre-heated air flowing through. I've warmed up my new large donuts when it's empty and blown air through it from the side air holes, and felt the hot air coming out from the donut! Enough hot air to convect?

I'm trying to find out the exact size of these things but I'm guessing they're about 10mm diameter and maybe 5-8mm tall? I think they will fit inside the V3 and be heavy enough to not be lifted by a user's breath.

Interesting... I have a crafty & a bunch of the dosing capsules. I'll check & see if they fit this evening.

 

[FX]

I've been rocking the V3 at TCR 245, 40w and 350F and McLovin' it. It took a bit to figure out but this is all still new. I am having better luck putting it more around the donut than in one spot.

I will lower the disc further in the cup in a moment. It was only a bit of wobble but I'll firm it up. I haven't been able to get it to glow when cleaning though. I'm afraid to take it out of temperature mode but I think that's what most are doing.

I backed my copper post out a little bit. It seemed a little too close and may very well have been fine, but it wouldn't hurt. It's now a comparable length to my RDA's.

 

[mutten840]

So I just got my V3 today and after messing around with the temps and finding the happy place. Lets just say I had to sit down for a minute =P Best part was it hit so smooth I did not realize how big of a toke I had taken. I can only see this getting better with use. Really really like this and am now wondering why I was without it for soo long (Why???) Really great work @divinetribe =)

 

[Silat]

So I just got my V3 today and after messing around with the temps and finding the happy place. Lets just say I had to sit down for a minute =P Best part was it hit so smooth I did not realize how big of a toke I had taken. I can only see this getting better with use. Really really like this and am now wondering why I was without it for soo long (Why???) Really great work @divinetribe =)

Mutten what W did you go with?

 

[mutten840]

@Silat I am using the V3 cart on a VTC mini mod. It is pure bliss. Running TCR mode at 245 with temp of 350F and 34 watts. It gobbled up my concentrates nicely and when I looked inside. All clean and ready for the next round. The plus to the larger inner diameter is it is really easy to load and seems to be much more effective in gobbling up the concentrates with very little splatter inside the chamber and on the top inside of the cap. Best part is. I can take it apart if I get any concentrates under the ceramic ring.

 

[Silat]

I am using the V3 cart on a VTC mini mod. It is pure bliss. Running TCR mode at 245 with temp of 350F and 34 watts.

Thanks Mutton. I will give that a try on my eVic VTwo for tonight's session.

 

[divinetribe]

I've had about 6 sessions with my V3's by now, and DAMN this thing is s beast! A hog!

But it is a civilized, refined, hoggish beast. The vapor flow is amazing, but the flavor and vapor quality is just as great; about the same as the v2.5.

With TCR 245, I've tried 30, 32, and 35 watts, and starting temps from 330-360F, and it blows through the usual 20-50mg sized loads we put on the 2.5 in a single huge pull, maybe leaving a tiny bit oil left on the donut / cup if my meager lungs are filled, mid-puff. Normally, I would take at least 4-10 hits to clear that amount on the 2.5.

I've put on cheap waxy crumbles, shatters, and some live resin so far, (but not co2 yet) and they all work great.

Before I load these new v3's up, I am dry firing them a few times and watching them heat up, and taking some puffs from the empty atty. It smells / tastes like nothing at all, other than hot air. It will be interesting to see the off-gassing test results from these things. With the materials, (steel, copper, ceramic, silicon and nichrome?) I see no reason to expect anything nasty, foul, or harmful that should not be in our vape / air supply. What other vape companies are even trying to do this?

I think it's great that Matt has aimed to make these devices truly capable of being "medical grade" and I have full faith the lab results will show that.

A few questions for @divinetribe at this point:

Regarding the upcoming medium and small size (10 & 7mm) donuts that you're still working on:

• will we be able to convert our large size V3 housings to the medium and small donuts simply by swapping out the cup / donut part to M or S, or will the cups for the M and S size donuts be different enough from L as to require a complete different outer ceramic housing to go with it also?

most of my plans for the v3 were rejected and i was made to focus solely on the Large donut and getting that done, then adapting the smaller parts on as I can .. The 10mm medium donut is next, the cup is smaller but still fits into the same housing and on the same base, only thing different is the cup size and donut.

• for heat cleaning / burning clean the new donuts: what watts setting on VW mode should we use to burn it clean? should we blow through the side air holes while powering it to blow out the crust and reclaim like on the v2.5 right?

I tried to get my donut white and it was getting red hot at 570f and i blew my first large donut today.(went from.45ohm to .8ohm) and is now and .8ohm and will not heat up. I did get half the donut white before it went out.. finding the fine line of heat tolerance is something I have not done..
ANYONE of you that do this I will send out replacement donuts of any ohm for you to experiment just email me with your username. matt@ineedhemp.com
I have not personally cleaned this large donut back to it's original white. but what have been doing is cleaning it to a point where it is not producing any reclaim vapor. i bump the temp up from 260f to 340f and blow through the air holes outward, forcing the vapor up through the top. video to come .. I am going to need help with cleaning suggestions.

• What is the highest wattage setting you recommend for use on temp control modes?

20-30w I don't know yet


Since you're using the istick 40w TC, that means 40, at least. I suspect 50w might be ok too, but probably not much more than that

• Is there any reason why the end-users should remove / unscrew / alter the copper, flat-head, positive 510-slot screw on the bottom of the atty?

no I see not reason yet to remove that part, but things could come up

I am assuming that is just full of the copper post that leads up to the top of the deck, and it's isolated from the rest of the metal base with a thin silicon layer, so we have no need to touch that part?

yes



Interesting...more resistance ranges for the same donut sizes? What is the purpose / intent of offering more resistance choices?

I will leave that up to you guys to tell me why one is better than the other,, the reason why i chose the .4-.6 ohm , I felt they would be the most universal to Temp out I hear over 1ohm will make many temp devices switch back into wattage mode.. I am willing to send higher ohm donuts for you guys. email me

Wouldn't the higher resistance donuts use up more milliamp-hours of battery life to achieve the same heating and vaping effects as the lower resistance equivalents?

i need to experiment more

The low-resistance donuts are generally preferable, aren't they? Don't they tend to be controlled by TC more effectively?

That is my thinking but we need to experiment to see

Thanks again for all your efforts to bring us this game-changing device, Matt.

Please read my comments in above post. In box
thank you, The v3 I feel is a rough model but I had to release something. refinements are still needed and so i will keep designing until i am completely satisfied.. Suggestions are appreciated, the cup and crucibles are buzzing in my brain but I can only work with certain shapes of heaters and the outer ceramic housing. we at least have the parts that need to be off gass tested now, altering them to perfection is a must for the future...

 

[Steven]

thank you, The v3 I feel is a rough model but I had to release something. refinements are still needed and so i will keep designing until i am completely satisfied.. Suggestions are appreciated, the cup and crucibles are buzzing in my brain but I can only work with certain shapes of heaters and the outer ceramic housing. we at least have the parts that need to be off gass tested now, altering them to perfection is a must for the future...

I'm not too interested in the crucibles but do you have any heaters that are in a shape of a cup or bowl of some sort. I feel that that would be the most efficient design in a "nail". The cup or bowl can go into the existing cup design. The donuts have proven to be great, but I feel a bowl or cup will not only be leaps and bounds easier to load, it would probably vape most efficiently as well due to surface area in contact with wax

 

[elmoe420]

@divinetribe Great work dude, you really nailed it! Flavor on that big v3 donut with this jack pull n snap is amazing! Running TCR 245 @ 370 degrees with a 25w max. My only complaints are the choice of screws for the outer housing instead of a pressure fit with o-rings like the mouthpiece. Also would have loved an e-cig standard sized drip tip option. Please consider selling ceramic plates or cups as well as different sized donuts.

So who's gotten out the calipers and figured out what size alumina cup we need for this beast?

 

[Steven]

@divinetribe instead of screws for the outer housing, do u think it's possible to replace that with magnets. That would be sweet for cleaning. Just pop em on n off

 

[Quote]

@divinetribe instead of screws for the outer housing, do u think it's possible to replace that with magnets. That would be sweet for cleaning. Just pop em on n off

I believe coils, such as the one that's squished flat inside the DT donut, create a magnetic field as current flows. This magnetic field affects resistance and current flow and such. So a magnet so close to those coils would not be good.

Source: my vague memory of physics with electromagnetism, which I loved learning, but god damn was that shit complicated.

 

[Steven]

I believe coils, such as the one that's squished flat inside the DT donut, create a magnetic field as current flows. This magnetic field affects resistance and current flow and such. So a magnet so close to those coils would not be good.

Source: my vague memory of physics with electromagnetism, which I loved learning, but god damn was that shit complicated.

There are atomizers in the market that uses magnets for the mouthpiece with no issues...

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

@divinetribe i hardly ever check peoples' social media feeds but with all the buzz over the v3.0, i checked out your IG feed a few times.

Congrats to you and your lady expecting (your first?) baby!

Thanks for answering my ?s from the last post. He answered inside my quoted message, if any of you guys missed that.

The new higher resistance donuts will be interesting, maybe quicker ramp up times for heating?

 

[Bad Ocelot]

The newest Source Orb has a magnetic closure. They've also announced a ceramic cup atomizer in which the sides and bottom of the cup are heated. Great idea, curious to see how it's implemented.

The screws are fine with me though, I have a ton of tiny phillips heads laying around from RDTAs & such, and I prefer screws to magnets. The I've heard the new source orb has been coming open in people's pockets & I think they're issuing a replacement with stronger magnets. Screws are more reliable. And it's not like one needs to disassemble this more than every week or two.

RE: burn offs, with the 2.5 & 2.7 I would set the base upside down in a small ramekin with enough iso to reach the floor under the donut & let it soak for 20min-1hr, then let dry overnight, then do a burn off if. With the v3 it seems it would be easier to remove the cup & donut, soak, then burn off. And since there are a couple extras sent with each unit it should be easy to keep at least one in serviceable condition at all times.

I used a <15w to burn off the old units, so i'm thinking 20 or less would work with the larger one, just feather the power and blow on it some to prevent overheating. I was able to get my 2.5-7 glowing red & then pearly white with this method.

 

[Steven]

@Bad Ocelot I would like magnets over screws for convenience. Loading the v3 is so much easier without the housing. I still load it with the housing on but if it were magnets.... Boy would I be utilizing that feature. Also, at the very slowest, I go through a gram of shatter every 2 days, so I like to clean a bit more frequently, so again, magnets for convenience would be superior for my needs. For the record I like the way the mouth piece uses o rings

 

[FX]

I feel I should post my mistake so that it doesn't lead to problems for others.

I adjusted the center pin screw because I felt it was not sticking out far enough from the bottom of the deck. What I think happened, was when I screwed the V3 on the first time, I pushed the pin inward. The center pin can be pushed in which will allow the entire copper post rise, all one piece.

A couple posts back, I had mentioned a wobble with my cup and last night I noticed one of the posts it was sitting on was a different height than the other. I then took off the donut and cup, flipped the deck upside down so they were sitting on the posts and on a flat surface, and pushed down to straighten the posts. As I did this, I noticed my center pin screw rise and realized how these work. My pin is now back where it should be.

In summary, if you put your V3 on and now notice one post is higher than the other, you may have over torqued your center pin screw and pushed the post upwards. I would suggest calibrating the screw in a manner to where is touches and tightens only about a quarter turn or so until the deck is seated on your mod. My pin bottomed out before my V3 deck seated to the mod. This caused my copper post to rise and shift the cup.

This is no fault to the design and most likely applies to all decks, just something I finally figured out. I hope that all made sense.

 

[Bad Ocelot]

@Bad Ocelot I would like magnets over screws for convenience. Loading the v3 is so much easier without the housing. I still load it with the housing on but if it were magnets.... Boy would I be utilizing that feature. Also, at the very slowest, I go through a gram of shatter every 2 days, so I like to clean a bit more frequently, so again, magnets car convenience would be superior for my needs

Ah, I can see how if you're doing large loads & going through that much shatter a quicker opening system would be advantageous. I still haven't been able to procure anything to test mine out with but it seems like it should be easier to load than the older models as it has a wider opening but if you're painting the donut it would definitely be easier if it was more like an RDA, with the airflow holes in the top piece and you just slide that on and off over some O-rings on a very small lip in the base to reload.

 

[Steven]

@Bad Ocelot. Yea I think your O ring idea is a good one too. Anything other than screws or glue seems to be a better design at this point t for me. You are also right in that loading the v3 is very much easier than the 2.5 because of the increased diameter of the opening. But ime, any loaded wax that touches the side walls are never vaped efficiently and a bare donut and cup minimizes that. Also as you mentioned I like to paint the donut evenly with shatter so removing the housing is a huge plus for me.

Anybody else have any ideas to improve the v3 design?

 

[Bad Ocelot]

You could probably jury rig something like that together with some ceramic heating donuts with leads & an RDA with a large enough velocity style 2 post deck

 

[Steven]

Those of you who are having a hard time getting vapor should try to adjust your inhalation intensity. The v3 has very good airflow. On top of that, the airflow is coming from beneath the donut. I found that my natural hit is pulling too much air through the donut, cooling it down too much to produce good vapor. I use the v3 with Hydratubes, so to adjust, I pucker my lips or keep em in a whistle position to narrow the intake passage, thus slowing down the intake intensity. I noticed at the same settings, the slower inhale will produce 2x as much vapor. I guess u can always turn the heat up but I personally rather not. Hope this helps anyone

 

[divinetribe]

just a reminder over packing will make the donut leak still.. this guy ran his .45ohm v3 on his eleaf battery without adjusting the settings after using his ejuice tank that was set for 30w, anyway he blew the donut, it worked barely and was registering at 1.ohm after.

I replaced his old coil with a 1.1ohm donut, then tested it out and it worked in temp control like the other lower ohm donut, but i had to set the temp to 470f to get the same effects as the .45ohm set at 260f, I did not notice what the wattage was doing to keep that temperature..

 

[whatavape]

I'm afraid to take it out of temperature mode but I think that's what most are doing.

I recently sold off a bunch of my mods, and am left with only 2 minivolts. They are tiny and worked well with my v2.7, I was running them at 10.9W (the minivolt is a DNA40 device with only VW) and cleaning at around 14-15W. With the v3, I am running it at 18.6W after much tweaking. Haven't had to clean it yet as I only use it at home and taste has been great so far. Also didn't want to kill it with 25W but I feel better about this seeing everyone else's wattage range, albeit in TC mode, which my mods don't have.

I'm using a simple formula to calculate the temperature of the Alumina in the donut (dR = TRC * dT * R0, using degC or K, either is fine). Using Alumina's temperature resistivity coefficient (~0.00176 [K]-1) as my "best guess" - since I'm assuming the ceramic donut is made of Alumina or a very close cousin, and ceramics' TRC typically lie in that range. My target temp is 182C (~360F), and for the donut I'm currently using, that means keeping it at .73ohms or less. So far that takes 3-4 seconds of heating with the standard ramp and 5-6 with soft ramp. I haven't tried it with power yet, but honestly standard is fine for me and it gets me medicated.

I will have to crank it to 25W and see if vapor production increases - my calculations are (under)estimates so I'm not too afraid of the temps, and the vapor seems wispier than the v2.7, so maybe that will put it into 1-hit KO mode for me.

the cup and crucibles are buzzing in my brain

Thanks to @fernand , they are buzzing in mine too! After some quick digging I found a few that may fit, but do you happen to know the height between the top of the donut and the bottom lip of the outer ceramic sleeve? It looks like just over 2mm, and my measurements tell me that will give a slight tolerance, but with my luck I'll get one that should fit and it will end up too tall.

@divinetribe So who's gotten out the calipers and figured out what size alumina cup we need for this beast?

By the dimensions I've taken, 12mm*2mm w/ 1mm walls would fit well beneath the outer sleeve, but I'm not certain on the height yet.. Hopefully we can find a manufacturer already making them in the right size!


Edit: extra words

 

[WKONE]

@Bad Ocelot I would like magnets over screws for convenience. Loading the v3 is so much easier without the housing. I still load it with the housing on but if it were magnets.... Boy would I be utilizing that feature. Also, at the very slowest, I go through a gram of shatter every 2 days, so I like to clean a bit more frequently, so again, magnets for convenience would be superior for my needs. For the record I like the way the mouth piece uses o rings

It was already mentioned that magnets will mess with the resistance of the donut.

 

[mrbonsai420]

Update on the V3. I have been using the V3 for a few days. First thing I noticed is less vapor production from the same size load Vs the V2.7. More testing is needed of course. I am using a VTC Mini VTwo in Ni TC mode at 25w and 390-420 degrees. TCR 245 and those same temps still seems wispy to me so sticking with Ni settings for now.

The COOLEST thing I have noticed is the V3 mouthpiece fits a 18mm female perfectly! Unfortunately I use a 14mm PWTA with mine so I need to figure something out there. I wish there was a 14mm GonG mouthpiece for it!