Divine Tribe atty's

[Vape Donkey 650]

If this "Un Spent Material" was like the ash in the bowl, I wouldn't be posting right now. I would hit it until it didn't give me any smoke at all. I keep thinking this is how the DTv3 is supposed to work. I keep thinking i'm supposed to paint that donut once (Load that bowl) and hit it tie it hits no more (smoke it til its nothing but ashes). I am having to take many (5-7) crappy hits after the 3rd load basically just to feel as if i'm not wasting medicine. This is where we pick back up from earlier. Hear me out, if 3 loads, got me 3 good hits, 3 semi decent hits, but then took 5-7 more hits before I could clean it all up and not be wasting anything, I'm taking a more crapy nasty hits than I was with a bowl.

Back in the day, I had a lot of weed. Now I live in a not so happy state, and work hard for my money. I wouldn't be dumping out the last hit in the bowl right now, unless it was for heath concerns. Lol, health concerns were not on the list back in the day.

Last, but not least, some really crazy questions. Does it matter if I take the same size load it one 15 second hit, or 1 - 10 second and 1 - 5 second hit? I like to end session with a taste fresh hit and leave the crappy hits for the beginning of the next. Something is telling me there is more to this temperature thing than just cooking oil. Could I be getting too much "Un Spent Material" because i'm running too cold? I noticed in Matts cleaning video, his donut had a bunch of crusties burnt on to his donut. I only had that one time when I had first load on 10 mm with tcr190 @ 350 degrees. I got good hit, but it tasted burnt. I instantly cleaned it off using matts cleaning to start all over. I otherwise, never get burnt on crusties.

Thanks guys, Cody

PS: i put all that saved oily reclaim from few weeks ago into something i saved from the refillable CO2 oil.

Cody, some good points still. Let me help you look at it from another perspective: do you know exactly what's in the oil you're loading on your V3? Like, potency % in THC and related cannabinoids, and maybe even terpene levels? Is your oil made from whole nugs, or from trim leaves? Because unless you have distillate, it's most likely much lower than 99%. Those 2 things I mentioned, most people would consider to be the only "desireable" parts of your concentrates to inhale or consume.

The rest is just generic plant gunk; fatty oils, chlorophyll, CBN broken down from THC, and lots more stuff I can't list. Most of this stuff is only going to make a cloud if heated to temperatures well above what is required to vape the THC or terpenes, and might even burn the good parts if you raised it that high.

Typical shatters and sugar waxes range from around 60-80% THC, a pittance of other minor cannabinoids, and maybe a few ~ % more in terpenes. So that means at least 10, maybe up to 30% or more of your concentrate is just generic crap that doesn't get you distinctly higher any different from generic toxic chemicals being burned. I used to think that in dabbing, everything would just magically vaporize and disappear, unlike bubble hash vaping, but I eventually learned that's not really true, and the more that I learned about reclaim, I have become more willing to swab up and discard the most marginal portions of my reclaim oil.

Pens are just wasteful compared to proper dab rigs (which can even be wasteful themselves if you've ever seen a caked up rig with 1/4 oz of wax trapped in the downstem and perc lol.)

That said, they are still unbeatable for discretion, and the V3 is at the top of the pack for sure. Keep messing with temperature until you find the perfect balance of vaporizing more of the load without baking on crusty carbon deposits.

The upcoming DT atomizer will surely be more efficient as it will include a sealed heated cup, so there is nowhere for the concentrate to run from. This should provide bigger and more thorough hits with less waste!

Wasteful...depends on how you want to define effective use. If you're ok with that crusty pool burning up on you as you cap it an inhale it, and you consider the smoking part of traditional dabbing as well as the true vaporization part as part of effective use, then yes, the "proper dab rig" will be more effective. You can also run your donut at 600F and be left with very little reclaim and more thin hard crusts, but that's not advisable.

As for the reclaim that cakes up and accumulates inside the dab rigs themselves, that has more to do with the habits of the owners. On my fleet of DT-only dab rigs, the low-temp dab water doesn't really get that nasty at all, not until after alot of use. So I try to change the water every day or so, after a couple sessions maybe. But I guess with the hotter e-nail vape having a bigger temp differential with the cool water than most people's donut vapor temperature, I guess you can have bigger losses to condensation? Especially if you only compare dry mouthpiece reclaim / splatter accumulation on the DT vs glass dab rig reclaim...

I think you worded just what I am starting to figure out... high temp, but not high enough I’m cooking it onto the donut.

I have often though, does the material fall off donut very easy? I don’t feel as if I paint on too much when loading. I keep thinking if I do this right, I don’t even need the cup. Right?

Yes, even before I spouted off these reclaim and temp-centered essays, it looks like you're picking it up. Hopefully you can fine tune it to your satisfaction and you feel like you get the most out of your oils. But even with immaculate donut loading and use, you still need the cup underneath. Always gonna be some minor splatter and dribble, you don't want to let it get to the posts more easily.

I just ordered some v3 13mm coils and was hoping Matt would throw in a pre release early hook up, but I guess I’ll just have to wait in line. I am very excited.

This gives me time to learn all this on what I got. No need to throw something different in the mix right now.

I just wish this glass thing wasn’t so expensive. Is there anyone in Kansas City Missouri who can let me sample their glass on the dtv3? Lol, that would be the best.

Thanks for the help everyone, Cody

Ha, good luck with that bonus crucible gift. Don't think anyone has it yet.

I'm far from KC, MO, so I can't share my dab rig with you, but I would recommend you try some glass to enhance your vape game! You may not be in Oakland, Humbolt, or amsterdam, but you're learning to better use your V3, and can rep some cutting-edge vape gear in the heartland, and you don't need to spend hella money to do it!

The rig that Matt sells seems like a winner at a decent price. If you want something that's even more compact, there's nothing better than the PPWT. You can also get these for under a dub, and they offer good airflow and decent bubbleage. All other small bubblers I've seen can't compare. The PPWT won't reach the levels of a large hydratube, but it still works fine, and I'd prefer that over a dry hit any day.

If you already have a regular dab rig that you want to use with the v3, or prefer that style of glass over a hydratube, you can look at many of my old posts to see how to make a simple glass / silicon elbow adapter to hook up your V3 to your rig using Matt's small glass adapter too.

 

[invertedisdead]

I just find with a banger there's nowhere for my concentrate to go but vaporize. That's why I'm looking forward to the crucible cup so much, because it should be quite close to this experience! I dab really low temp... like to the point people laugh at me haha.

 

[Morty]

I've been testing the V3 the last few days (digging it!) & def been overloading a bit too much. Some wax on the donut wires & the base they go into. Watched the cleaning videos but have a couple questions.

- Saw Matt use the wipes & burn off. I'm guessing I'm good to go soaking both those parts in ISO as well ?

- Also saw you can soak the outer base (w/o the o-rings) & mouthpiece in ISO. Am I good to do this w/ the black version as well w/o fucking up the black ?

Thanks!

 

[nosmoking]

I just find with a banger there's nowhere for my concentrate to go but vaporize. That's why I'm looking forward to the crucible cup so much, because it should be quite close to this experience! I dab really low temp... like to the point people laugh at me haha.

I have been back to my DT V3 atty with the Source Terra 2 crucible for the past week or two while waiting for the Source Orb XXL quartz nails that I ordered June 30th. They still have not come in and I keep killing(not literally, but their killing the flavor by leaking internally) my Puffco Plus carts lately. They were doing great with BHO waxs and shatters but my home-pressed Rosins keep getting through the air inlets because it spreads more and runs from the heat much faster than the BHO I was using. I actually made a makeshift internal dab tool using the Puffco Plus dart so its very much like an oversized Puffco Plus. I can load much more and take bigger hits with the DTV3ST2 over the Plus and if it ever leaks by spilling over, I will be able to clean it easily enough.

For anyone waiting and dying to see the potential of a crucible cup, I would suggest buying a pack of the Source Terra 2 atomizers and doing a little DIY action. There is a thread on Reddit that gives some pictures and more information but it is pretty simple to figure out.

@Morty everything but the o-rings can be soaked in ISO. I have the black version and have left it in 90% for multiple days with all the other parts.

 

[Morty]

Thanks @nosmoking. The Source Terra 2 crucible mod sounds sick. Going to read up.

 

[nosmoking]

Thanks @nosmoking. The Source Terra 2 crucible mod sounds sick. Going to read up.

It most definetly is. If someone wants me to email pictures of my setup so they can post for me I would gladly send them...just shoot me a PM.

Settings are run in TC Ni mode at 30Watts and 330 degrees. The coil reads .58 ohms if I recall correctly.

 

[invertedisdead]

I just got a refund from Source after an extremely disappointing run with their Orb 4... I should do this. It looks super legit. Hows the durability of these @nosmoking ? Have you burnt any up yet?

 

[nosmoking]

I just got a refund from Source after an extremely disappointing run with their Orb 4... I should do this. It looks super legit. Hows the durability of these @nosmoking ? Have you burnt any up yet?

Not sure how you could burn it up...it seems pretty durable and there should be nothing other than Tungsten and ceramic. I have put a tiny chip in the top lip of the cup and all seems to work fine. My cup is stained pretty bad so if you do buy these I would love to buy one of the extras off of you to help you recoup some of your costs. Just let me know.

 

[invertedisdead]

Not sure how you could burn it up...it seems pretty durable and there should be nothing other than Tungsten and ceramic. I have put a tiny chip in the top lip of the cup and all seems to work fine. My cup is stained pretty bad so if you do buy these I would love to buy one of the extras off of you to help you recoup some of your costs. Just let me know.

Most of us dry fire our v3 donuts to clean, I was wondering if these could handle that. If I get some I'll definitely reach out to you.

 

[Morty]

Went to the reddit page & saw how to do that. Learned you can use it on the Sai too (screws right in). So...I...just went to Vapornation cause of the FC discount code & ordered a 3 pack of the Source Terra 2 attys. Might try 'em on both the Sai & V3 to see if one performs a little better. Mod it up!

Stoked b/c I haven't been enjoying the Sai as much as anticipated (loving my V3 & DC Gen 2 though - awesome combo!), so this might be the thing to kick 'er up a notch!

Edit: Yes. I'm curious to know too if you can dry fire to clean them. If not, not a deal breaker (but would be nice).

 

[nosmoking]

I typically qtip clean the cup once it gets low enough because it degrades in taste by that point. I have tried cleaning it by holding the button down forever but not by turning the watts up. I dont like changing the settings on my battery really so I just vape until I cant stand the vapor flavor and then qtip or heat it until there is very little to nothing left so I can add more.

 

[codyppc]

If your airways are in much better health than me and you can already get pretty big hits (without combusting) already without a hydratube, that's great. But if you connect a nice bubbler to your donut, you might be surprised just how much even a bigger cloud you can make! You might need more than the 10-second protection that is stock, which is another thing arctic-fox is good for so you don't have to button cycle. I take max 15 second puffs on my dab rigs.

If your airways are in much better health than me and you can already get pretty big hits (without combusting) already without a hydratube, that's great. But if you connect a nice bubbler to your donut, you might be surprised just how much even a bigger cloud you can make! You might need more than the 10-second protection that is stock, which is another thing arcticfox is good for so you don't have to button cycle. I take max 15 second puffs on my dab rigs.

I have mine set to 15 only because I can't set it to 20 seconds. I can take a slow hit and still leave 5-10 seconds for inhale to cool oil at the end. I do really like the idea of the bubbler. can I make one out of plastic? I am a 25 yr master plumber. LOL

Yes...each time your oil load is heated, vaped, and cools down: to whatever oil remains, it is subjected to a process of continual degradation and depletion making each subsequent hit marginally less pleasant and desirable. So if you can get even a bigger, cool puff with water, you can finish maybe in 2 or 3 hits what normally would take 5 or 6? So you can finish up more of your load with less "reclaim hits" that will be smoother and tastier.

With hydratube dabs vs dry hits with the mouthpiece, I feel very little flavor is lost. I feel more flavor is lost from flower vapor through water. Its well worth the trade-off IMO.

To be clear, regarding the results I get, I usually load 2 bb's, or blobs, or shards of shatter on my donut, not just 1. One bb on either side of the donut, on top of the air-flow hole, not on top of the wire lead hole, to reduce the chances of oil leakage onto the wires. (You can orient the Ω and V3 logos on the ceramic base with to match positions with the air flow hole or wire lead side of the donut cup to remind you what part you're loading onto, the hot or cold spot of the donut) This is one reason I get plenty of hits per load. I like not having to reload as frequently, and I don't mind scooping up the cup reclaim back on top of the donut, and I guess I'm more of a reclaim lover than most donut vapers. Or at least not a reclaim hater.

Where to draw the line between still milking puffs of that not-so-tasty reclaim and then cleaning or reloading is up to the user.

Reloading fresh oil over reclaim is something I try to avoid and is not my general practice. It's good to clean that reclaim off before fresh reloads, but you don't have to do a full breakdown, alcohol soak and burn-off to get it serviceable after just a few loads.

Have you tried the heated napkin swab trick? Get a small piece of a napkin / paper towel (preferably non-linty or fuzzy kind) and roll it into a little cylinder, and rub it against your donut while you hold it upside down and fire the button in temp control mode. It's good to lower the temp some amount than your vaping temp to not over-cook the crust and oil as you clean it (no airflow). From a donut that was just clean when it was loaded, you should be able to get the donut and sides of the body pretty white after it's sticky with reclaim doing this. You might even find 1 or 2 more decent reclaim hits after this without even reloading (even though the donut looks white again) from cup oil melting and moving to the underside of the donut while you fired it while swabbing it upside down.

Here's what i have been doing this week. remember, i run my v3 with the screws out. this way I can very easily load, unload, and clean... I'm starting off with clean donut, semi-melting or painting on about 2 mm bb size load of shatter on the donut. I take 1 big long hit , chill and enjoy for about 60 seconds. I probably see about 2/3 the donut clean and dry after first hit. After this 1st hit, I reload with a smaller 1.5 mm BB size load because of this small amount left on the donut from first hit. Just not as much room without something falling off. I take the 2nd hit, chill for minute and enjoy. Now the donut has about half its surface dry, I load 3rd and last load. Each load is melted in with the oil that is left on top of the donut. All three of these hits are tasting great.

After this 3rd hit, I tilt the V3 to its side a little and let it cool a little. At this point, I have very little reclaim showing, but I start getting it back on the donut and hit it another 3-4 more times. Each time trying to mop up everything I can.

This is where I may be getting things weird. I take a wet q-tip and clean off just the top of the donut. this now gives me the ability to do another "3 load session" like above at a later time. i could have got more clout out of that session, but after running some test with saving that for the start of the next session has convinced me that there isn't anything good left in it and that it's ok to clean off.

This is kind of like the guy who cleaned up the screen on his bowl before reloading each time. Keeps it pulling good, keep nasty resin taste down, ect. I am feeling, for the first time, as if I am not wasting material. Thanks to everyone here of course.

I can do the wet q-tip for 4-5 times before I start thinking about think black crap gunking up under my donut. This is where I start holding the trigger down and start flicking oil onto the ground. This was picked up in matts cleaning videos. The only difference is i'm not doing a 20w cleaning right now. I just want to try and get some of that crap out of there. Blowing from bottom of air holes while trigger pulled, more q tips. The paper towel works good when trying to get between cup and donut and under donut, but since I don't use the screws, I don't really clean with the rolled up paper towel. I don't really get many pieces of the q tip left in v3 and even if I did, its probably not the worst thing that happened to me today. Lol.

I don't really get much cooking onto the donut. Nothing like whats in matts video. Infact, everything that is stuck on there, comes off with that wet q tip.

Let me eat some dinner, then I'll read the rest of these great replies.

Thanks, Cody

 

[codyppc]

@Danksta 's post that you referenced from November last year is not relevant to your medium donuts and cups that you have today and bought just a few weeks ago in 2017.

But the failed medium cups points to an important tangential lesson:
you do want your 10mm donut to sit as low and flat and even to the bottom of the cup as possible.

It seems it's easier to make the 13mm donuts and cups lie super flat and level, right out of the plastic, don't have to do anything. but the 10mms usually need some tweaking.

You should be able to install the 10mm donut and cup into the wire terminals without the wire leads bottoming-out and touching the floor of the terminals, thereby pushing the 10mm donut up higher from the cup floor. I hold my finger down lightly on the donut in the cup as I press the cup/wires into the post to feel if it bottoms out and pushes the donut up. I usually find I have to trim 2-3mm from the wires to make them sit flush in the posts and allowing the donut to sit low and flush to the cup as possible at the same time.

With your 10mm donut sitting as low as possible in the cup, installed, the backside of the donut can be touching (or nearly)those 4 little cylinder posts that hold up the donut in the cup, and not be blocking or contacting the air holes, leaving just a minimal gap to allow lots of air flow! Ensure that your donut is not sitting crooked in the cup. You may have to adjust the copper 510 pin on the bottom of the metal base by screwing it in or out with a flat-head. This adjusts the height of the copper terminal, so you can make sure both terminals are at the same height and are level, so you can mount a level cup and donut on top of it.

All of this 10mm donut / cup fine-tuning will allow you the lowest, flattest donut (on par with the 13mm) which will help you vape more of that floor reclaim for the least "wastefulness". I find most 10mm donut / cups, un-modified, will not allow for a low installation. And this does lead to extra reclaim pooling in the cup, which is perhaps why alot of non-tinkering-inclined DT donut vapers may dislike the 10mm donut...just my theory

Good to know about the out dated post i quoted. thats the problem with trying to go back and read to catch up.

I have noticed the 10mm seams a lot looser than the 13mm. i checked the length of the leads good before i tightened screws. unlike my 13mm donuts, where i did have to trim a little of the leads, the 10 was fine. I have also noticed oil leaking under the cup where the leads go through for the first time. I didn't see the leakage with the 13mm anyhow. I have no problem working with my hand and feel as if the donut isn't getting any lower in the cup, still seems looser. i actually think it maybe more with the height of that one lead that i can adjust. i was going to wait until after this gram is gone and then do full tear down clean and readjust at that time.

Well, Matt is the man, he designed and made these atomizers for us, but he doesn't really mess around with TCR modes that much on the V3 donuts (with the DC he does)

Vaping on pre-set TC-Ni mode "works" and it allows you to get decent results and avoid burning, but besides the temps on the screen being about 100F or more lower than actual donut temps on TC-Ni, which may or may not matter to you, there is one more great reason to use an accurate TCR and also the newest release of arcticfox to fine tune your donut experience:

precise, accurate temperature stepping

TC-Ni is a TCR of 600, which is way higher than any donut's real TCR. This means that when you increase by 10F in TC-Ni mode, you're really increasing the donut temp by 20 or 30F or so! Not so good for finding the ideal temp where reclaim doesn't taste so gross and get crusted or combusted more, but still makes a good cloud out of it and vapes the last drops, right?

On a donut tuned with a TCR that actually matches it, when you go up 10F on the screen, the actual donut temp will go up 10F, more or less, with the normal oscillations and flux during use you would expect with any TC mode. For vaping different types of oily materials, and stepping temps lower at the start and higher at the end, TCR mode allows for a much greater degree of control than preset modes.

And last..the newest versions of arcticfox even allow 1C / 2F temp stepping! No more just 10F! The finer temp adjustments are not just theoretical, they really can match your observed temps and the effects can be noticed. A 2F difference may not be noticed, but a 4F sure is! For me, vapor that is +/ - 10F too much can be the difference between an overly large, hot, harsh vape cloud that is too much for me to take without coughing, or a a wispy, light, tasty cloud that doesn't fully satisfy and vapes too little of your fresh load for the 1st or 2nd hit. So the 2F steps is in AF much appreciated by me.

There was a few pages in this thread, that i found while looking for good settings to run the DTv3, that had some really good info on TRC / TC and temp probes and what not. I'm not really interested in doing my own testing. I just wanted settings to get me started. TCR value for each of the two donuts would have been at least a start. if someone asked me what i was running it at, i would tell em. I realize this is more important for others for sure and for some good reasons i'm sure. I also realize what material you're vaping, MOD, ect. It could get costly trying to figure too much of this out by ones self. I do like the smaller steps in AF. I don't enable it unless i'm using one of those cheap CO2 oil cartridges. I have never seen anyone post a temp setting that wasn't a multiple of 10. Hmmm.

This part, gets a little confusing, you responding to what I said which was a little vague to begin with.

I think what I was trying to say originally, is that with the design of the cup for the large donut, with it's larger diameter and ridge or gap with the main ceramic body, it tends to suck up more oil and reclaim in that gap, and also underneath the donut in the cup, which are the cool spots on the V3 large donut. So you apparently have to load more fresh oil, to "overcome" the "less-than-ideally placed" oil which itself acts as a buffer, blocking the cool spots and directing fresh oil to the hot spots, in order to attain a "virtuous cycle" or reclaim balancing. Naturally, this requires a lot more loads to break it in, with some less-than-satisfying "break-in" load sessions, and possibly bigger loads needed, with sometimes tilting the V3 donut during use to direct the cup reclaim oil towards the hotter vaping spots,and generally operating and vaping your V3 big 13mm donut while holding alot more reclaim in the cup than I prefer.

With the 10mm donut, I can load small or medium loads precisely on the donut hot spots, get it to warm up quicker and make big vapor without there needing to be alot of reclaim already around the sides or under it in the cup, and that oil which does fall to the sides and under, I can scoop up back to the hot spots for re-vaping much more easily, without having to remove the outer ceramic body, and then napkin clean it quickly for a fresh reload, not needing to accumulate lots of reclaim along the way.

This part is still confusing me, but I think I'm getting closer. Words like "break in" are a big part of the confusion. A break in period is usually a one time thing, but here it MAYBE something that is done after a cleaning. Minor cleaning or major cleaning i still have no idea.

you used the words "virtuous cycle" or "reclaim balancing". This was what i was also afraid of because it makes no sense to me. if these concentrates are all that clean, why do we have any unusable material at all. if we used the flower and bowl example again, your telling me to add a little green to the half spent bowl. as much as i love the green hits, i know that would just make the last half of that original bowl taste even worse. most people would throw away that half spent bowl before adding new green flower and not just keep adding to it.

I do understand and can see how the design differences could change the behavior. Good to see others looking at the little things as well.

Thanks, Cody

 

[codyppc]

Well, I managed to BREAK MY DTv3 this morning.

After reading the last two pages and realizing there is a little more importance than I originally though regarding assembling of this unit, I figured since this morning was "Clean Donut" day, I would also include assembly and adjust as needed.

With the Cup and Donut removed from what i am going to call the terminal base, one of the terminals did look higher than the other. I have a micrometer (and OCD), so I checked it. It was in need of a little love to balance it out perfect. It also appeared fairly self explanatory how the flat head screw could adjust the one terminal. Well, it doesn't. The screw turns easy, but does nothing but spin, as if it was "Stripped".


So, I left it alone and moved on with the inspection. I noticed a few of my cups don't fit into the terminals as well as the other. In Fact, I think I only have one of the 3 that fit into the terminal completely allowing the cup to truly sit on terminals. Can the ceramic tits be filed down a little to let cup sit flatter on terminal base? I guess besides it being total parallel with terminal base, it doesn't really matter. As far as i understand, the main thing is the donut be tight to the bottom of the cup.

The Picture below is without the donut. The cups just seem to have one of their nipples bigger than the other. Sorry Ladies, just the bast way to explain it. LOL


After everything was Cleaned up good with ISO, Dried, Inspected, Photographed, Ect, I put it back together. I don't do the 20w cleaning because I don't get crusties that don't clean off with ISO. I do dry fire it a time or two before use just too burn off any left over ISO.... NO ATOMIZER FOUND... What? I didn't do anything..., but mess with that flat head screw. Feeling that couldn't be it, i tried another donut, still NO ATOMIZER FOUND. Bummer.

I sure hope someone has a fix for me. This is the only thing i have for concentrates. I have back up donuts and cups, but not a backup of everything. Well, I do have some back up flower which does cover everything. Just a really a bad time in life to be breaking stuff.

Thanks everyone, Cody

 

[invertedisdead]

No atomizer found sounds like it's not making a connection. So is it not letting you adjust the connection point with a flathead screwdriver? Because it sounds like the pin on the underside of the base needs to come out a bit to make contact. Also heck the contact points on the 510 connector on the mod and atomizer and make sure they are clean. Either one of these has given me the "no atomizer" message.

Edit: Also, I was running mine with the screws out of the housing too, but my last batch of donuts doesn't seem to like this and was causing me to lose my resistance readings, even screwed in rather tight; so the housing is screwed back on mine as of a couple days ago.

 

[codyppc]

No atomizer found sounds like it's not making a connection. So is it not letting you adjust the connection point with a flathead screwdriver? Because it sounds like the pin on the underside of the base needs to come out a bit to make contact. Also heck the contact points on the 510 connector on the mod and atomizer and make sure they are clean. Either one of these has given me the "no atomizer" message.

Edit: Also, I was running mine with the screws out of the housing too, but my last batch of donuts doesn't seem to like this and was causing me to lose my resistance readings, even screwed in rather tight; so the housing is screwed back on mine as of a couple days ago.

The adjustment screw turns, but doesn't not adjust. I think the threaded pin, or screw, it broke and not striped. in my first pic today, i note the other side of the screw not moving. I understand this is for adjustment for this, but it is not adjusting.

I think the adjusting pin or screw is now broke, which has also broken contact. I do believe my Pico had some contact adjustment as well. I haven't played with it yet. Pic of this on the Pico below...

Also, That's weird about the resistance readings. I don't understand how the housing can have anything to do with the MOD's contact with the coil. Housing re-assembly considered.

Thanks, Cody

 

[invertedisdead]

The adjustment screw turns, but doesn't not adjust. I think the threaded pin, or screw, it broke and not striped. in my first pic today, i note the other side of the screw not moving. I understand this is for adjustment for this, but it is not adjusting.

I think the adjusting pin or screw is now broke, which has also broken contact. I do believe my Pico had some contact adjustment as well. I haven't played with it yet. Pic of this on the Pico below...

Also, That's weird about the resistance readings. I don't understand how the housing can have anything to do with the MOD's contact with the coil. Housing re-assembly considered.

Thanks, Cody

The housing puts subtle pressure on the cup keeping it in place. I tested this by just pushing down on the cup when I had the housing screws out, and it would register resistance again. For whatever reason no matter how hard I screwed in the leads it wouldn't help. Maybe the leads were just long and needed trimming? @Vape Donkey 650 mentioned this recently.

 

[codyppc]

The housing puts subtle pressure on the cup keeping it in place. I tested this by just pushing down on the cup when I had the housing screws out, and it would register resistance again. For whatever reason no matter how hard I screwed in the leads it wouldn't help. Maybe the leads were just long and needed trimming? @Vape Donkey 650 mentioned this recently.

This I like idea.

I was thinking of something similar when thinking how exact Matt really needed to be with the cup to housing fit. The tighter the fit at this point would also be factor for air flow and keeping cup perpendicular. This is when i started holding the loose housing down to MOD a little firmer, many for airflow.

Now I have re-considered the re-assembly of the housing and if I ever get the Old Girl working again, I will be using the screws. It was good running it without screws for the learning phase, But i don't really need it anymore anyhow.

Thanks Invertisdead

Cody

Update: I got home and did a continuity test on it... nothing. I broke it I'm afraid. Does anyone have pictures of this piece broken down? I wanna try to fix it, which I think I can if i knew what the pieces looked like.

Update update: I fixed it. Broken screw as I thought. Pics coming after session, of course.

 

[codyppc]

I used a piece of home electrical wire that was a good tight fight. I flattened about 1/4" of it a little in hopes that i could tap in some threads.



I pushed the wire in from the top as i turned. It turned out the copper is soft enough that i got some pretty good threads.



I then threaded the wire in from the bottom, trimmed the bottom part to where it would make contact with the MOD. Then I installed cup and donut.




With the housing on, I feel as if its "lock in there" pretty good. Not the prettiest, but at least I'm vaping tonight instead of smoking. I'll always have a back up stash of flower, just in case I break something. LOL

Thanks, Cody

 

[elmoe420]

Hey all, apologies for adding some discussion about non-DT devices but with all the talks of crucible designs I thought others might want to hear about my experience with the new Longmada "black eye". This was announced recently by Longmada here:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BWNFsr_Dswr

Lots of hype about no-glues, safe, etc. as you see in the marketing content. I got a few of these units a week or so back and gave them a whirl since I too search for the perfect "honey I shrunk the quartz banger" handheld.

You can see the basic design there. Heater is embedded in the bottom of the black ceramic crucible. Its unclear how the two pieces of the black ceramic are stuck together. They say no glues were used though. You can also see the obvious solder points.

Haven't used it much yet to be honest. Too much travelling this summer. Certainly no leaks as they claim and has pretty decent volume for concentrates. Vapor production was very weak though even when I cranked it up to 18w. The Longmada rep said to try 0-18w and no TC unfortunately. Was running it via a reverse banger into my En4cer.

The search continues.....

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

With the housing on, I feel as if its "lock in there" pretty good. Not the prettiest, but at least I'm vaping tonight instead of smoking. I'll always have a back up stash of flower, just in case I break something. LOL

Thanks, Cody

Wow cody! I've never seen the copper screw get broken on a V3 base. I guess it had to happen to someone eventually! I would be bothered by the posts sitting off-level like on yours, it has happened to a few of mine, so I adjust it, but no breaks for me. At least you're crafty enough to fix it temporarily. I'm sure that Matt will send you out a new part as soon as you tell him what happened.

I think I may heave ended up confusing you as much as helping with all my paragraphs

if these concentrates are all that clean, why do we have any unusable material at all.

But what I was trying to say here, even if the concentrates are "clean" with no residual solvents, contaminants, etc. it is still natural for there to be a significant % of generic plant material byproduct in the BHO process, especially if it has not been "de-waxed"...this stuff burns off at much higher temp, so unless you want to go much higher to burn the reclaim and get more crusty, you have to deal with that reclaim some other way which we have discussed too

I just find with a banger there's nowhere for my concentrate to go but vaporize. That's why I'm looking forward to the crucible cup so much, because it should be quite close to this experience! I dab really low temp... like to the point people laugh at me haha.

so unless you want to go much higher to burn the reclaim and get more crusty

Unlike this guy ...like how low on the e-nail banger? 480F? 500? Enough for multiple capped off hits before it gets all crusty-ed? Some of it still gets carboned up as waste, right? so it's not much more effective in that sense? Or is it?

Not sure how you could burn it up...it seems pretty durable and there should be nothing other than Tungsten and ceramic. I have put a tiny chip in the top lip of the cup and all seems to work fine. My cup is stained pretty bad so if you do buy these I would love to buy one of the extras off of you to help you recoup some of your costs. Just let me know.

I typically qtip clean the cup once it gets low enough because it degrades in taste by that point. I have tried cleaning it by holding the button down forever but not by turning the watts up. I dont like changing the settings on my battery really so I just vape until I cant stand the vapor flavor and then qtip or heat it until there is very little to nothing left so I can add more.

Interesting with the DTV3ST2...when the cup eventually gets crusted up, can you burn the tungsten / ceramic cup clean in watts mode? You can't get it all off just with q-tips or dry firing in TC mode can you?

Why is it so hard to change settings on your mod to watts mode? 3 quick clicks and over 1 or 2 modes, a few seconds of burning clean, and then repeat to get back to TC-Ni?I'd sure hope those or any heated ceramic cup would allow that

I've been testing the V3 the last few days (digging it!) & def been overloading a bit too much. Some wax on the donut wires & the base they go into. Watched the cleaning videos but have a couple questions.

- Saw Matt use the wipes & burn off. I'm guessing I'm good to go soaking both those parts in ISO as well ?

- Also saw you can soak the outer base (w/o the o-rings) & mouthpiece in ISO. Am I good to do this w/ the black version as well w/o fucking up the black ?

Thanks!

Hey Mort, nice to see another one happy with the v3 donuts! As nosmoking said, it's fine to soak the black ceramic mouthpiece and body in isopropyl as long as you want, just like the white ones and the cups as well.

You could soak the o-rings too, but only for shorter periods, maybe 10 min or so, because they can get dry and brittle and absorb dissolved reclaim if left too long in alcohol.

The one thing to be more careful with on the black ceramics is the screws; the black ceramic is more brittle, not as strong and impact resistant as the white. Tighten the screws barely hand tight, just an 1/8th turn more than that at most. And gently re-tighten, as needed. The sunken area by the holes breaks easily. I've never broken a white v3 body or mouthpiece, but I have chipped a couple black housings by over tightening the screws.

When are you and grandpa Rick gonna make some more episodes? I heard there's a new season coming up

Hey all, apologies for adding some discussion about non-DT devices but with all the talks of crucible designs I thought others might want to hear about my experience with the new Longmada "black eye". This was announced recently by Longmada here:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BWNFsr_Dswr

Lots of hype about no-glues, safe, etc. as you see in the marketing content. I got a few of these units a week or so back and gave them a whirl since I too search for the perfect "honey I shrunk the quartz banger" handheld.

You can see the basic design there. Heater is embedded in the bottom of the black ceramic crucible. Its unclear how the two pieces of the black ceramic are stuck together. They say no glues were used though. You can also see the obvious solder points.

Haven't used it much yet to be honest. Too much travelling this summer. Certainly no leaks as they claim and has pretty decent volume for concentrates. Vapor production was very weak though even when I cranked it up to 18w. The Longmada rep said to try 0-18w and no TC unfortunately. Was running it via a reverse banger into my En4cer.

The search continues.....

Nice scoop elmoe... progress but not the jackpot still? No TC is a deal killer for me, and the solders look kinda suspect there.. I think Matt is working with longmada on an atomizer, I hope it will look better than that?

 

[nosmoking]

Unlike this guy ...like how low on the e-nail banger? 480F? 500? Enough for multiple capped off hits before it gets all crusty-ed? Some of it still gets carboned up as waste, right? so it's not much more effective in that sense? Or is it?






Interesting with the DTV3ST2...when the cup eventually gets crusted up, can you burn the tungsten / ceramic cup clean in watts mode? You can't get it all off just with q-tips or dry firing in TC mode can you?

Why is it so hard to change settings on your mod to watts mode? 3 quick clicks and over 1 or 2 modes, a few seconds of burning clean, and then repeat to get back to TC-Ni?I'd sure hope those or any heated ceramic cup would allow tthat

Many of us are dabbing on silicon carbide surfaces at around 515F right now. You get a much more effective hit from an enail and for several reasons but the two biggest factors are the heater surface area for your concentrates is increased and the heater is already at temp. This makes a huge difference believe it or not. But like you I have been too stubborn to believe there could be much difference from one thing I had plenty of experience with to something I thought I understood but had absolutely no experience with. Luckily I listen and read well and asked the right questions to motivate myself to try what others were saying and I learned quickly how far off I was. You tend to think a pen can substitue an enail...but if I recall you have no enail experience...


As for the DTV3ST2, it does not get crusty. I clean it after every 3 or 4 sessions with a q-tip. I just heat the cup a little, like 3 or 4 seconds and then swab it out making sure not to touch anytging but the cup so I do not have cotton sticking to the V3 base. It is brand new and no crusties to clean after q-tip tech. Dry firing would also do it without getting crusty but thats wasting battery and creating a foul smell during the process so I prefer q-tip tech over dry-firing.

I also just prefer not changing the settings on my device's. I am a consistent and thorough person and I prefer things to be certain ways. The why is of absolutely no matter as I can assure you I am a grown ass adult who puts a lot of consideration into the alternates beforehand and I am very well aware of what I do and don't like. I dont like changing settings just as much as I hate locked doors inside my own house. I actually havr thought about getting a second device for a new Supercritical C02 pen I recieved that I have been trying out lately just because it annoys me to have to change the settings to go back and forth from the C02 cart to the DTV3ST2. Its really a simple process, but I have my preferences as I said. I would, however, imagine you could dry-fire clean the cup much faster by turning up the temperature. So far I have not seen a case where the oil defeats gravity and climbs the walls to go over the top of the cup. It seems it always boils and never gets above the 3/4 full point on the cup walls so everything seems to be staying in the cup as long as I keep the device pretty vertical. I do notice a slower cool down time for the concentrate to restabilize if I need to put the device away in the middle of a session.

Edit: I checked the cup temp and it seems in TC NI mode at 30 watts and 250F max heat the cup quickly goes to 250F and rises over the 15 seconds my Evic Mini Basic Two will let me go to 510F. I checked back to back consecutive hits for up to 3 hits and it never got hotter than 515 so 250F is where Inhave settled as of yesterday. So far I have had very little experience at this lower setting but it seems to be working just fine.

 

[Morty]

Thanks for the tips @Vape Donkey 650 !

When are you and grandpa Rick gonna make some more episodes?

July 30th! Check out the trailer...
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/tv-shows-general-discussion.2221/page-29#post-1137399

 

[Bad Ocelot]

Loving the AF firmware! Definitely an improvement over stock wismec/eleaf/joyetech TC. In PI mode it's basically idiot proof. Haven't gotten any burned or fouled taste at all after running about a half g through it without cleaning. Gonna be putting this on all the mods soon!

 

[skayleef]

Does anyone have good performing settings for the dry herb gen 2 with the arctic fox firmware? I was doing some searching around, and I didn't come up with much.

(running latest artic fox firmware on cuboid) I created a few profiles to mess around, but I havent come up with anything that is vaping to a brown enough color that I am happy with.