Dabpress Rosin Plates

[psychonaut]

Oh, ok, I guess I didnt do too bad then. I don't really know for sure what pressure (no hydraulic pressure gauge on this press, but it's a 20 ton with manual control), but is it possible to give it too much? I also do not have a hygrometer, but I steamed the drier stuff. I squeezed it down slowly and kept giving it a little more pressure as it relieved itself as the fluids were displaced. Started with just 3-4 minutes on the first 3-4 presses, but pressed longer on the one with the biggest yield, closer to 10 minutes.

On my second round of attempts I got similar results with some different strains that were also more on the dry side. For experimentation I pressed the last 1/8 I did for just over 30 min, and got a lot more out than I did on the one before it with all other conditions the same.

Dang bro, sounds like a tricky first stab.

I recommend to invest in one of these -
https://www.amazon.com/Caliber-Digi...=digital+hygrometer&psc=1&smid=A141OTTBXJ0MV8

You'll want to take your buds and put them into a jar that will fit both the hygrometer and the buds you intend to press. It can take hours before it gets an accurate reading, but this will tell you the condition of your buds.

I've not used the steam method to introduce humidity into the buds, so I can't really say if you used enough? I believe the methods that were used in steaming was to measure the material pre and post-steaming to make sure you introduced enough moisture into the buds. I've always used bovedas with hygrometers because it's easily verified with a 2nd hygrometer and the humidity packs let you know when they are about used up, not a lot of guess work involved.

Sounds like you definitely had enough pressure and time, so I am thinking we need to inspect the buds closer. Check them out with a jewlers loupe or a nice magnifyer, make sure they got a lot of resin. Once you know that you have your buds between 55-65% stable RH, I would just squish like a gram nug at 220F for 45 seconds and see what sort of yields you get. If the material is pretty good I would expect at least 20% but perhaps closer to 25%. 10-30 minute press is quite long, I would keep it under 3 minutes at like 180F and down to about 45 seconds if you're pressing at higher temps like 220F.

If you are seeing color in your parchment where the puck is, you are using too much pressure, that is about the best way to know w/o a gauge.

 

[friedpiper]

Dang bro, sounds like a tricky first stab.

I recommend to invest in one of these -
https://www.amazon.com/Caliber-Digi...=digital+hygrometer&psc=1&smid=A141OTTBXJ0MV8

You'll want to take your buds and put them into a jar that will fit both the hygrometer and the buds you intend to press. It can take hours before it gets an accurate reading, but this will tell you the condition of your buds.

I've not used the steam method to introduce humidity into the buds, so I can't really say if you used enough? I believe the methods that were used in steaming was to measure the material pre and post-steaming to make sure you introduced enough moisture into the buds. I've always used bovedas with hygrometers because it's easily verified with a 2nd hygrometer and the humidity packs let you know when they are about used up, not a lot of guess work involved.

Sounds like you definitely had enough pressure and time, so I am thinking we need to inspect the buds closer. Check them out with a jewlers loupe or a nice magnifyer, make sure they got a lot of resin. Once you know that you have your buds between 55-65% stable RH, I would just squish like a gram nug at 220F for 45 seconds and see what sort of yields you get. If the material is pretty good I would expect at least 20% but perhaps closer to 25%. 10-30 minute press is quite long, I would keep it under 3 minutes at like 180F and down to about 45 seconds if you're pressing at higher temps like 220F.

If you are seeing color in your parchment where the puck is, you are using too much pressure, that is about the best way to know w/o a gauge.

Alright, thanks. That all sounds like good info. The buds I got the best result from are super resinous, it's a 27% THC content flower. I think you're right about too much temp, time, and probably pressure. I have more of the same stuff, and will give another 7g a squish within the next day. I also have some stuff called Million Dollar Baby that is my favorite, and I'm gonna do 7g of that too. The quality of the product I'm getting is absolutely incredible btw.

I also forgot to mention I have been using 160 micron bags, it's all I've got currently

 

[psychonaut]

Sounds like some great buds there! Remember you can always squish less, no reason to put a whole lot in there when you're just testing!

 

[friedpiper]

Sounds like some great buds there! Remember you can always squish less, no reason to put a whole lot in there when you're just testing!

Thanks! Yeah I started out with 7g at a time and found the bags way easier to work with than the 3.5g bags I tried the next time. I'll keep playing around, taking into consideration some of the factors you brought up, many of which I had already suspected

 

[dabpress.com]

Regarding yields. I had a run with 5%, I definitely kept it quiet It was a horizontal bag build and the rosin was really really good, sweet and sour fuel (sage n sour strain). I feel like it was a technique issue. Unfortunately that's not yet been confirmed, as soon as I get my press fixed I am going to give it another shot bottle tech style with 65% RH buds. All I gotta say is I hope it ain't true that it's a low yielder =/

@dabpress.com excited to see news on the rosin filter and pre-press mold. You've been working hard to bring us some money saving filters, much appreciated Roger!

I've been looking around at a suitable pairing for the dp-rp33 3x3" plates I have, man those arbor presses are not cheap, I thought maybe a 2-ton would work out well for a small 3.5-7g squish using bottle tech with a 3.14 sq/in footprint. These 2-ton arbor presses cost more than a shop press.

Here's some links to some of the affordable presses available in the US. Some of these go on sale regularly for $50+ off with free shipping so keep checking back if you're still laying out your build

20-ton H-frame floor standing (with seperate pump and gauge) - $439
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200641795_200641795

20-ton H-frame floor standing - $189
https://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-shop-press-32879.html

12-ton H-frame floor standing - $129
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-shop-press-33497.html

12-ton H-frame bench top - $199
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200641863_200641863

10-ton H-frame bench top with seperate pump and gauge - $289
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200641793_200641793

6-ton A-frame bench top press (consider 12-ton H-frame for more durability) - $77
https://www.harborfreight.com/6-ton-a-frame-bench-shop-press-1666.html

2-ton Arbor Press - $255
https://www.grainger.com/product/JET-Arbor-Press-42W945

Calculate your plate surface area:
For square/rectangle plates L" * W"
or
if a circle, Radius * 3.1416.

1 ton = 2000lbs

To find the max PSI divide the max tonnage by the surface area of the plates (the surface area of the actual puck itself, will reveal the true PSI), for example 6-tons is 12000 lb's, divided by 9 sq/in (3x3" plates), 12000/9 = max PSI 1333 (maxing out a press's capability is not advised)

@psychonaut Samples will be finished this week. I will share the pictures here once after testing.
dp-rp33 I'll recommend 2-5 tons A-frame or H-frame to clients, Thank you for your reminding.

Could I copy your content and post on our blog? It's very useful to potential customers.

 

[dabpress.com]

dp-bt160n ( 160 micron made of nylon )

Specifications:

• Item No.: dp-bt160n
• Item Shape: Sleeve Tube
• Material: Heat-Resistant Nylon Mesh
• Diameter: 1.18″ ( 30 mm )
• Length: 19.7″/Sleeve ( 500 mm）
• Package Quantity: 6Pcs/Package, 118″ in Total ( 3000 mm )
• Micron: 160µ
• Color: White

Attentions:

• Pair Round or Square Pucks
• the Height Between Two Rosin Plates Could Be Easily Controlled By Hands
• No Stitch at the Side of Rosin Sleeve Filter
• dp80 and dp100 Does Not Fit This Rosin Sleeve Unless Stitching By Yourself
• Nylon Mesh Bag Max Temp < 300°F
• Do Not Put Over 10g Material in Each Customized Rosin Bag
• Recommend Single Use Only

 

[dabpress.com]

Could I ask one question here?

what kind of method is accepted if rosineers have to stitch his own rosin sleeve?
( If you only wanna pressing a horizontal bag )

Thank you guys!

 

[psychonaut]

@psychonaut Samples will be finished this week. I will share the pictures here once after testing.
dp-rp33 I'll recommend 2-5 tons A-frame or H-frame to clients, Thank you for your reminding.

Could I copy your content and post on our blog? It's very useful to potential customers.

Though 2-5 tons in A-frame or H-frame are very rare. 6-tons in a frame is what I was finding but only in A-frame. I suppose one could replace the bottle jack if they have the frame.

Sure Roger, I have shared that with the world already, if it will help future rosineers feel free to post it.

 

[dabpress.com]

Though 2-5 tons in A-frame or H-frame are very rare. 6-tons in a frame is what I was finding but only in A-frame. I suppose one could replace the bottle jack if they have the frame.

Sure Roger, I have shared that with the world already, if it will help future rosineers feel free to post it.

Totally I understand, Thank you very much!

 

[psychonaut]

what kind of method is accepted if rosineers have to stitch his own rosin sleeve?
( If you only wanna pressing a horizontal bag )

I think you could either just cut the sleeve to 2" longer than you want for your plate size and fold the ends on top of the pouch once you have the buds pressed into the sleeve properly, or you could stitch one side closed to make it easier to pack the buds in, then fold the other side, as we are doing currently.

 

[dabpress.com]

I think you could either just cut the sleeve to 2" longer than you want for your plate size and fold the ends on top of the pouch once you have the buds pressed into the sleeve properly, or you could stitch one side closed to make it easier to pack the buds in, then fold the other side, as we are doing currently.

dp-bt160ns rosin filter bag is one-side stitching
dp-bt160n is rosin sleeve, diy cutting

 

[elmomuzz]

I have no problem folding over both ends. It works well. I cut my sewn bags in half. So one half gets folded over in each end and the other on just one end. My yields are similar.

Or maybe no filter at all. Yet another epic squish. It’s so fun.

 

[psychonaut]

Right on @elmomuzz that was a real beauty, you got some great material over there! Thanks for sharing the pressure, what was the temp?

 

[elmomuzz]

Hey thanks.

I had it at a indicated 220. It seems like a good temp to get maximum yield while sill maintaining excellent quality. But I like to play around with both higher and lower temp. It’s a fantastic squisher.

 

[psychonaut]

@elmomuzz thanks bro! I am gonna give your method a shot with my single nug yield testing. I have a stockpile of filters but I want to get some relative #'s before I go back to the filters.

What are your thoughts on the "pitting" in the anodized aluminum? I have seen some rosin press manufacturers state that a lapped/smooth surface on the plates allows the rosin to release more. I haven't found a difference in yields comparing a lapped/smooth 6061 aluminum block plate versus the "pitted" anodized plates.

 

[friedpiper]

@elmomuzz thanks bro! I am gonna give your method a shot with my single nug yield testing. I have a stockpile of filters but I want to get some relative #'s before I go back to the filters.

What are your thoughts on the "pitting" in the anodized aluminum? I have seen some rosin press manufacturers state that a lapped/smooth surface on the plates allows the rosin to release more. I haven't found a difference in yields comparing a lapped/smooth 6061 aluminum block plate versus the "pitted" anodized plates.

Interesting theory there, although you said there was no noticeable difference.. While the anodizing looks cool I suppose the plates being perfectly smooth could offer better performance. Never even thought of that

 

[elmomuzz]

We are talking microns with the anodizing. I don’t think there is any measurable decrease in yield or performance.

Has anyone mentioned that the anodized surface increases the surface area of the contact patch that touches the weed so it more effeciently transfers the heat across allowing you to lower the overall temperature of the plates? Again just microns but an argument for anodizing.

 

[psychonaut]

We are talking microns with the anodizing. I don’t think there is any measurable decrease in yield or performance.

Has anyone mentioned that the anodized surface increases the surface area of the contact patch that touches the weed so it more effeciently transfers the heat across allowing you to lower the overall temperature of the plates? Again just microns but an argument for anodizing.

That was sort of my thought on it, the micron sized dimples in anodizing would surely displace the herb differently since you are applying equal force across the puck, it seems to me that it would more than likely decrease the diameter of the puck due to those micron measurements are only affecting the top and bottom and just displacing the material only really affecting a small surface area not the thickness of the puck, which makes up the majority of the density (aka yieldable material) Not to mention using filters virtually creates a similar "pitting".

Seems like an odd claim. Like you won't get proper crust coverage on a burger patty cooked in a cast iron skillet when using a burger press.

That's a really cool observation, I like the way you think.

 

[dabpress.com]

@elmomuzz thanks bro! I am gonna give your method a shot with my single nug yield testing. I have a stockpile of filters but I want to get some relative #'s before I go back to the filters.

What are your thoughts on the "pitting" in the anodized aluminum? I have seen some rosin press manufacturers state that a lapped/smooth surface on the plates allows the rosin to release more. I haven't found a difference in yields comparing a lapped/smooth 6061 aluminum block plate versus the "pitted" anodized plates.

Both of Anodized/unanodized aluminum is food grade. But nobody want more aluminum element always in your honey every time. It is why your aluminum tableware is anodizing.
Anodized plates with minimal breakout helps heating material.

(It is only my thought.)

 

[dabpress.com]

Square puck maker is finished. Round one will be finished tomorrow.

Square puck maker pair stitching rosin filter bag( one side stitching - well suited to horizontal rosin bag)

Round puck maker pair rosin sleeve( no stitching on both side of rosin sleeve )

Two small dark grey plates attached.
1, We can limit size of pressed material, the same size with dark grey plate(10mm thinkness).
2, We can make puck without dark grey plates for your size.

It will offer after testing and adjusting size of puck maker.

 

[dabpress.com]

Rosin filters are necessary in a some instances, and unnecessary in others.

Rosin filters must be used with very loose material like sift, hash, kief, trim, leaf and even already pressed rosin. The reason filters must be used with those types of material is because it will not hold it’s form such as a whole bud and many times there is too much risk of contaminant entering into the rosin, so we need to filter the material. Rosin filters should also be used when pressing large amounts of flowers, such as using a pre-press mold to maximize the amount of material per squish. This will help to insure that your pressing is a success.

There are times when a rosin filter is not necessary. When squishing small amounts of material (1-3g) or single buds (large or small), you can press without a filter if you prefer. The yield will also be better versus using a filter, but there is always a risk of plant material (contaminant) entering rosin from the unfiltered flower so it’s fairly easy to clean out the contaminant if this occurs. You can simply use a needle to pick out the piece as you see it during collecting. Now you have clean rosin without any filters!

Filters come in a variety of different micron sizes. You can experiment with them and see what you prefer. Generally you want to use 25-115 micron filters for your loose material such as hash, sift, kief, trim, etc. For more delicate material like higher quality hash or sift, use the lower microns such as 25-72, for the trim and loose shake you can go between 90-115 microns. For flowers, you can use between 90-160 microns as all of your plant material will stay within the bag.
You will also need to match up your bag to your plates. The length of the bag can always be trimmed but you want to make sure the width of the bag is not going to overextend out of your plates. So if you are using dp-rp37 Rosin Cube Kit with 3x7” plates, and you are wanting to maximize your yield and capacity of the press, you will want to choose a rosin filter at least 2.5x8”. You can also use two different filters, so 2.5x4” filters would work just as well when pressing two filters at once.

There are other methods of using rosin filters such as creating a package like a present with your buds, not packed in very hard, but just enough to form the solid package. This is known as bottle tech and utilizes a vertical build of material within the filter versus horizontal. This allows the buds to squish out rosin with less pressure and release rosin with great yields. The resulting puck will have a smaller footprint. Because of the smaller footprint, this method can be used with multiple bags as well. So, buying exact size bags are not necessary, you can choose smaller bags as well. Just be aware, if using larger bags you may have to cut them down and need to be folded properly as to avoid blowouts.

Blowouts can occur if your material is pressed too hard and too fast, such as with very loose and fragile material like sift. It can also occur if you have your buds not packed properly in your rosin filters. One of the reasons we like to recommend 160 micron filters for flowers is they really have the lowest risk of blowouts.
Enjoy your pressing!

 

[invertedisdead]

Probably doesn't look like anything special but this OG mix of cured trim bin sift is the most potent I've had in a long time. Even the terp sauce and the live rosin weren't this strong. A real ass kicker! Pressed at 160F on the 3x5 caged set by Dabpress.

 

[invertedisdead]

20% yield on some Platinum OG I squished naked. Peep the clarity! Squished this at 175

 

[psychonaut]

Love those squishes @invertedisdead, that clarity is What a yielder! Gonna have to be on the lookout for that platinum OG, I knew it was a frosty cultivar!

I did a little squish using @elmomuzz's pressure/time/temps with some loose flowers and the dp-mj37 magnetic alignment jig, I know you were interested in it's performance @mc

I hope you enjoy, no words it's all clear when you watch.

 

[invertedisdead]

Love those squishes @invertedisdead, that clarity is What a yielder! Gonna have to be on the lookout for that platinum OG, I knew it was a frosty cultivar!

I did a little squish using @elmomuzz's pressure/time/temps with some loose flowers and the dp-mj37 magnetic alignment jig, I know you were interested in it's performance @mc

I hope you enjoy, no words it's all clear when you watch.

Bam! Another 20% off a naked nug! That's what I'm talking about


Is anybody running a lower temp on the bottom plate since it sees the most action or is that crazy talk?