Dabpress Rosin Plates

[MonkeyTime]

I never use a tool for collection, or a container, what I do is cut the parchment along the fold and use the 2 pieces, 1 in each hand and press them together and pull apart and press together etc, etc until I have one big glob

I squeeze it thin between that 1/2 parchment piece while its manageable and straight in the fridge she goes... if it's thin enough you can break off little chunks with the end of your tool and straight on your nail!

@DogBoy this

I never use a tool for collection, or a container, what I do is cut the parchment along the fold and use the 2 pieces, 1 in each hand and press them together and pull apart and press together etc, etc until I have one big glob

I squeeze it thin between that 1/2 parchment piece while its manageable and straight in the fridge she goes... if it's thin enough you can break off little chunks with the end of your tool and straight on your nail!

@DogBoy This^^^!!!

Depending on how much I skwished, I either double the paper on itself or press the two halves together with some hand created heat to bind them. I work it into shape on the paper and it goes right into storage from the paper. This method probably only works up to a certain press amount, at some point there may be too much to handle easily like this, but I haven't gotten there yet!

I'm still working thru some Think Big, all small popcorn stuff, getting a bit older, but kept at 62% in the dark around 70F. Bigger colas were about 20%, these smaller ones about 10% yield, so there can be that large of a difference within the SAME plant.

This strain is 185F-195F at about 1500lb on the gauge (very close to 1:1 so I don't bother converting) max, for about 3:30, but that starts after my heat soak, while I'm still dropping the ram. It takes me about a min before the gauge shows pressure for a reference on my speed. Pull it out, pluck the puck, and press the papers. This is always a 5-6g pressed puck in a bag folded bottle tech.

I've also gotten in the habit of not pressing a second time. I have two mason jars saved up of some wonderfully smelly, still sticky with visible rosin pucks. What do you guys do with yours? I was thinking just soaking them all in 190 proof everclear and then evaporating it down?

I've also been meaning to make some bubble hash from fresh frozen from the grower I support. This live rosin sounds delicious!

 

[DogBoy]

...I'm thinkin' canna butter...

 

[MonkeyTime]

...I'm thinkin canna butter...

I have plenty of ideas on how to consume it, cannabutter and cannacaramel are always near the top!

I'm looking for suggestions on how they collect from the pucks

 

[JCat]

I’m thinking of an ethanol wash, then evaporate, and heat purge and decarboxilate, then use that for edibles ... (I have hundreds of pucks!! Lol)

 

[FlyingLow]

Dog~. don't be shy to use two sheets of parchments for double layer.
I did when I was learning limits, and it really helps keep your plates clean.

...hell, I still use double parchment on 90% of presses.

 

[psychonaut]

I use 190 proof ever clear to soak my pucks, it gets chlorophyll too. Evap outside with 25u filter covered dish. Green oil finished product, not good for dabbing. Oven decarb finishes the alcohol purge. Makes some wicked edibles, canna caps or dark chocolate almond bark to avoid the green flavor.

I wash 4oz of pucks at a time and pull around 2-3% yield of green oil. That is enough edibles to stone my side of the gulch for a couple weeks lol

 

[JCat]

I use 190 proof ever clear to soak my pucks, it gets chlorophyll too. Evap outside with 25u filter covered dish. Green oil finished product, not good for dabbing. Oven decarb finishes the alcohol purge. Makes some wicked edibles, canna caps or dark chocolate almond bark to avoid the green flavor.

I wash 4oz of pucks at a time and pull around 2-3% yield of green oil. That is enough edibles to stone my side of the gulch for a couple weeks lol

I wonder about doing a quick wash instead? Or perhaps do a bunch of water soaks first to get rid of chlorophyll? (to improve taste!)

 

[psychonaut]

I wonder about doing a quick wash instead? Or perhaps do a bunch of water soaks first to get rid of chlorophyll? (to improve taste!)

That's a great idea, I have a jar ready to go in fact.

A quick wash may be the ticket as well, I'm not very well versed in QWET, perhaps are some useful tricks used on nugs that'll work on our pressed pucks.

 

[dron19]

Lots of great ideas here!

 

[JCat]

That's a great idea, I have a jar ready to go in fact.

A quick wash may be the ticket as well, I'm not very well versed in QWET, perhaps are some useful tricks used on nugs that'll work on our pressed pucks.

Here in Ontario you need to apply for a license from the liquor control board to buy 95% ethanol though ... (i already have my license though ... )

 

[invertedisdead]

I'm not sure a quick wash of ethanol is enough saturation time since we've already expressed most of the resin. We can only get 70% in my state though without going online.

Got a whole bag of pucks in my hockey memorabilia collection that I haven't touched yet I still wager that these pucks are WAY more useful than ABV

I've thought about just doing a coconut oil infusion, super cheap and accessible, potency would be a big question mark though... was thinking maybe it might make a nice topical/salve at the least!

 

[psychonaut]

The coconut oil infusion would be great. I'll have to get a measurement when I do my next wash, it could turn out pretty potent. I usually do my 4oz wash in a pint jar, might make some heavy dose caps?

 

[LesPlenty]

I knew I did not pull that 2500 psi limit out of thin air...

People using 2.5'" pre-press can go o 2750psi, less pressure for 2" pucks

flakey shatter that is getting everywhere except in a container

I folded my parchment paper and warmed it slightly with a hairdryer before collecting.

...the paper broke again even though I kept the pressure lower...

Double up the parchment paper, it is the cheap part of the equation.

Your gauge will keep dropping pressure as the puck heats and gives up its goodness and you need to keep pumping it back up (it will only creep and need a little pump here and there) Your pressure drop maybe a little quicker if your gauge is leaking.
What brand of parchment paper do you use?

 

[JohnnyMauser]

Hey Guys, pressed a lot since i got my dp-bj3t33. Now i want to share some results and questions i have over the time...

I tracked every single press i made so far and continue to do so. First i want to tell that i should had buy one with a gauge. That way i think it would be much easier becoming a good rosineer. I choose the hard way, positive for the bj3t33 -> its very small and handy.

My first press was about 9,9999% yield, i started with bottle tek method and also tried the pre press mold method. I used boveda's and think that this is really necessary. The longer the buds stay with the bovedas, the higher the yields.

I use Oil Slick paper, other parchment sheets will always break and release some oil on the plates.

I always press 3 times, most around 3.5g - 4.0g, temps is use for the 3 times -> 176°F, 185°F, 195°F

Most of the time i get the biggest yield in the first press, but sometimes i only got 0.15 at the first press, then more with the other.

The first press is the tastiest, but the other presses are really good too imo.

I press about 2-3 Minutes, starting the timer when i can see that any liquid is coming out.

After a half year of pressing now, most of the time i get about 16%-18% yield within 3 presses. Im fine with that results. Because i use the pressed pucks with the herborizer, its not that big bummer if the yields are not maxed out.

I never used drip tech, i never get luquidy oil that floats. But at the temps i use its more buttery and i like it that way. (very tasty, used @ 200-220 its more oily and not so tasty imo.)

I press at max power (holding the whole machine with 1 hand, so i can press the lever down) and sometimes with medium power. There's the first "problem", its all about feeling and a gauge would better help out here.

My biggest "main-issue" is the packing in a bag style. Sometimes, the puck goes to the side and dont press straight down. Thats where the surface of the puck gets bigger and the results get fucked up. There is only one video @ youtube explaining bottle tek, but i doesnt help me. I dont get how to fold the base correct, and how to manage that it presses right down without getting crooked. With my new material i just get 6% out of the presses, i got used to the 16-18% so its time to get some more help.

I think that last press had 2 big issues -> resting only 4 days with bovedas was the first

This material is very light, so it has more volume, it was a bigger bag to get between the plates and it got crooked...

Are there any good tipps for it to go straight down not going to any side? Maybe i will try with the pre press mold again next time, didnt use it for the last 15 presses.... feeling is that the yields of bottle tek where better, thats what my tracked data is saying...

Glad for hearing some ideas about packing bags for 2-left-handed guys.

Greetz
Johnny

 

[JCat]

My biggest "main-issue" is the packing in a bag style. Sometimes, the puck goes to the side and dont press straight down. Thats where the surface of the puck gets bigger and the results get fucked up. There is only one video @ youtube explaining bottle tek, but i doesnt help me.

Check out my video above ... I did demonstrate my 5g bottletech fold in it ...

 

[JohnnyMauser]

Check out my video above ... I did demonstrate my 5g bottletech fold in it ...

Thank you JCat! i post the URL of your vid again here:

Thats the method i used with pre press mold. Think it was psychonauts vid at the start of this thread, where he cut a bag in 2 and centered the puck there and fold both sides. You did it without prepress mold here, is that right? (it looks pretty fine in there just wondered)

I will definetly try this next time, i have lots of those pieces left from cutting the top of the bottletechs. Any more suggestions? What about the stems, do you try to get it all out? Or just the big ones? Or nothing at all?

 

[CR250M]

@DogBoy your material looks more than decent IMO either you doin something wrong, or the press is out of whack somehow, check the plates on the press if they completely close with nothing between them, my materials come by purolator and they're always very dry and still get minimum 15% return sometimes more!

I usually press at 200f for 3 mins

 

[JCat]

Thank you JCat! i post the URL of your vid again here:

Thats the method i used with pre press mold. Think it was psychonauts vid at the start of this thread, where he cut a bag in 2 and centered the puck there and fold both sides. You did it without prepress mold here, is that right? (it looks pretty fine in there just wondered)

I will definetly try this next time, i have lots of those pieces left from cutting the top of the bottletechs. Any more suggestions? What about the stems, do you try to get it all out? Or just the big ones? Or nothing at all?

I think the pre-press mold could be helpful, but I haven't used one yet or found necessary. I just do the fold on the bottom, and then holding it in my hands, start stuffing it in. Once I get about the bottom covered, I sit it down on my mat (fold or closed end down), and compress it down to shape it to the bottom; then I fill and continue compressing (I use a little piece of parchment to do the compressing so as to avoid getting my hands all sticky and wasting the stuff stuck to my hands). Once I am done, and it is basically in the cylindrical shape, I unfold both ends, re-center, and re-fold both ends and compress (with one end down on the mat)

Hope that helps ... bit of a "wordy" explanation

I don't try to get all the stems out ... I generally break off or take out the big ones (especially if sticking out), but sometimes I don't even bother; I keep everything at 62% and store it at about 56-60F in my cigar (cannabis) fridge ... so my stems still do have some bend so don't tend to poke through the bags.

If it's too dry, it won't stick together as well, which will make it more difficult ... so the humidity level is important for that reason if not for yield (I think it generally helps with yield too ... although there's likely in regards to yield a decently wide margin where it doesn't make too much difference ... at least in my experience)

 

[JohnnyMauser]

Thank you @JCat ! I will try that technique next time. My material isnt very sticky, think i dont need any mat or something.

I take out the big stems and did the small ones too. I think i will forget about that the next times. I didnt do that beccause it could stick out the bag, i did because it maybe could soak up the oil. But honestly there wasnt any big difference in yield...

I also expect i use too much pressure all the time. Maybe im too unconcious with the oil coming out of the bag.... feeling is bad indicator for me. I can see that with my espresso machine... need to weight exatly the coffee otherwise it wont work with my feelings there either...

I wont give up though... its too tasty and interesting. =

 

[LesPlenty]

Oil Slick paper,

So this is good stuff then? Many use it?

 

[FlyingLow]

I just use regular old parchment paper... That "thick silicone coating" may be great for storage, but I tend to avoid any "coatings" when pressing with heat.

 

[jag_ed]

Silicone and parchment paper aren’t a healthy solution for long term storage due to the fact that the terpenes will act as a solvent and will leach the silicone into your product. I use PTFE paper or glass jars for long term storage and reg parchment for squishing.

 

[LesPlenty]

terpenes will act as a solvent and will leach the silicone into your product

Thanks for the tip, glass for long term.
I was mainly looking at the silicon sheets for actually pressing, not storage, I thought it might help @DogBoy a bit. (I have had a little blowout before myself) and watching a video, it looks like it is a lot easier to collect the rosin from it than parchment paper.

@psychonaut , any news on the glass containers or did I miss something?

 

[psychonaut]

@LesPlenty We had looked into some UV protected glass but they were really expensive. I'll see where we are with those.

I think 2 and 5ml would be great sizes for personal, and then perhaps 1/2 and 1oz jars for storage?

 

[elmomuzz]

I'm kind of psyched. I just cracked into a fresh jar of herb and I've been having some awesome presses. This particular herb actually produces white rosin. It comes out of the plates solid not melted. I'll take a video later.