Gear D-nail thread

[ensabbahnur]

Just a warning if you are going to torch clean your Nimbus SIC Dish be very careful as some parts of the nail heat up faster than other parts and you can whiten it by getting it too hot. Primarily torch the sides as torching the top side will heatup the center post faster than the rest of the dish. Take your time it is better to waste butane than break a 100$ dish that likely cost you a bit more than that to get it going.

If you don't think you can be careful and it'll be glowing cherry red I wouldn't advise it.

Where did you see/hear of this happening, the SIC whitening I mean.

After the first few torch cleans I flipped the Halo dish upside down and set it on a brick and heated the bottom first and everything seemed a lot more even.

I will also say that i used a Bernzomatic 8000 series torch, which if youveused one or seen one it makes Vectors and Blazer Big shots look like literal child's toys you'd find in a day care, I also had it loaded with yellow cylinder MAPP gas (actually MAPP alternative) that ran quite a bit hotter then propane and much much hotter then butane (like over 2x I think) AND I heated it maliciously multiple times just to see what would happen to it as I have somehow wound up with almost as many SIC Halos as I have fingers, and the fact Ive never seen anyone else do it. Anyways, Ive gotten it practically Fires of Mount Doom hot and have seen no lasting effect of any kind, it always came out looking brand new and Ill always recommend that as the ultimately easiest/most complete clean method for SIC, and once/if AIN becomes more mainstream, I don't see it being any different for it either, despite all the whispers in the ether about it being some sort of issue.

Id love to have a white SIC dish though everything I've read/seen says they don't make them pure enough to keep the natural whitish color of the SIC.

 

[FlyingLow]

Torching SiC always seemed way overkill to me.

I've always been able to get a perfectly new finish from simply dropping temp to 250 and qtipping with water.

 

[ensabbahnur]

Torching SiC always seemed way overkill to me.

I've always been able to get a perfectly new finish from simply dropping temp to 250 and qtipping with water.

It is, truth be told a 10 min soak in room temp distilled water should get it as clean as anything you can do short of torching.

SIC cleans up like no other surface we use and there are a lot of good ways to do so.

 

[LesPlenty]

Wouldn't just turning the temp up to 900f on the PID as Dnail suggests be the easy way, that is all I do?

 

[FlyingLow]

That will get you to the finish line, but IMO if you are using anything more than water you are trying too hard

Kidding aside, I just prefer to clean at low temps than have a 900* nail on the bench. I also avoid soaking that high of heat into my glass joints.

 

[LesPlenty]

using anything more than water you are trying too hard

Your way sounds like hard work compared to a quick spin on the Auber knob. I do lift the unit up a bit to stop anymore dropdown blowouts. I also ultrasonic clean all the parts on occasion.
Just curious, what is your PID/floor temp for rosin with the SiC Halo @FlyingLow?

 

[damm]

Where did you see/hear of this happening, the SIC whitening I mean.

I was sharing my personal experience. My nimbus has a white frosting around the center post and the wall tops are starting to get more white. It doesn't seem to have done any harm.

Wouldn't just turning the temp up to 900f on the PID as Dnail suggests be the easy way, that is all I do?

Yes that is the official method I just don't like taking that much time.

Take the dish cold out to my BBQ grill sit it with the bottom up and torch it until it barely glows let it cool q-tip off the ash flip it over and repeat if needed (which I don't so it's just a waste of butane).

Everything else sits in a Ultrasonic cleaner for 30 minutes comes out like new which is perfect for me.

Different strokes for different folks as I am sure not everyone would torch their dish I got into the habit 2 years ago and I haven't seen a reason to stop. It works; it's clean and it takes so little time and effort to do.

 

[LesPlenty]

I just don't like taking that much time.

Seems like your method would take longer, I normally finish a dab and qtip, if it still looks bad I will bump to 900 and by the time I want another dab the unit has cleaned itself (if not before usually)

I haven't seen a reason to stop

Maybe to save some Butane, fossil fuel and all?

 

[FlyingLow]

I imagine it takes at least a 5-10 minutes to come down from 900* to a stable dabbing temp. I'd probably forget and take a fireball of a dab

My setup has always had a big discrepancy between PID and actual Dish temps.
My PID is set high, but my actual dish temps are generally in the 470-480* range.

 

[LesPlenty]

More like a couple! But yes, I have tried a 900f dab The rosin just boiled off the dabber as I tried to load it.

470-480* range.

Cool, I have been at 480-495 dish temps too.

 

[damm]

Seems like your method would take longer, I normally finish a dab and qtip, if it still looks bad I will bump to 900 and by the time I want another dab the unit has cleaned itself (if not before usually)

Nah the only thing that takes time for me is the same thing for you and that is cooling. Don't need to soak the dish with iso afterwards or anything special takes less than a minute to torch then go throw the stuff in the bath go do something else for 30 minutes grab the dish grab the base dry assembly. I have things to do so it's all quick and easy anything that takes 15 minutes of my time to clean is too much.

Takes less time for my dish to cool than your dish does to get back to a stable temp interestingly enough

 

[damm]

For those curious

 

[LesPlenty]

Nah the only thing that takes time for me is the same thing for you and that is cooling. Don't need to soak the dish with iso afterwards or anything special takes less than a minute to torch then go throw the stuff in the bath go do something else for 30 minutes grab the dish grab the base dry assembly. I have things to do so it's all quick and easy anything that takes 15 minutes of my time to clean is too much.

Takes less time for my dish to cool than your dish does to get back to a stable temp interestingly enough

Too much work, the only work I do is turn the knob up and down and qtip the ash, but each of us has our own preference.
That white stuff in the pic looks fucked, another reason not to torch?
I will probably get a SiC Nimbus and SiC wpa once you guys finish all the Beta testing as the sapphire looks a little too precious for me.
I am sick of my slim series WPA wobbling in every glass joint I have especially when a $10 banger fits rock-solid compared.

 

[damm]

Too much work, the only work I do is turn the knob up and down and qtip the ash, but each of us has our own preference.
That white stuff in the pic looks fucked, another reason not to torch?
I will probably get a SiC Nimbus and SiC wpa once you guys finish all the Beta testing as the sapphire looks a little too precious for me.
I am sick of my slim series WPA wobbling in every glass joint I have especially when a $10 banger fits rock-solid compared.

Get the PTFE Adapter from D-nail it will help with your wobbling. Fits snug as a bun.

As far as torching its unsupported at this point I do believe by D-Nail so it's up to the end user not to mess up. To me the time it takes to do what you did is more than I want to put in which is ironic (or funny) as you feel the opposite way. It's cool I just wanted to make people aware that if you torch the Nimbus you may end up with a white effect. Some people may desire it? it seems.

 

[FlyingLow]

I am right there with ya... hate the slim series. Will definitely be picking up a nimbus in the coming months.

 

[ensabbahnur]

For those curious

Dang thats crazy, I've never seen SIC do that before. Do you also have a SIC Halo so you could closely compare the SIC itself, I hope the Nimbus is the same as the Halo as IMO the Halo has always been the best example of quality in the hobby.

And white SIC would be pretty cool although I do think it would react like the AIN dishes and sapphire Halos and absorb a bit of the dabbed material.

 

[shredder]

I am right there with ya... hate the slim series. Will definitely be picking up a nimbus in the coming months.

My slim series stays in place, but I have friends that pick up the pipe, tilt it to hit it, and the carb cap falls off......stoners!

I use a inline carb from thick ass glass, but those same friends invariably pull the hot forked carb cap to clear the pipe, lol.

 

[damm]

Dang thats crazy, I've never seen SIC do that before. Do you also have a SIC Halo so you could closely compare the SIC itself, I hope the Nimbus is the same as the Halo as IMO the Halo has always been the best example of quality in the hobby.

And white SIC would be pretty cool although I do think it would react like the AIN dishes and sapphire Halos and absorb a bit of the dabbed material.

The SIC dishes I have match the Nimbus as far as material. I have older SIC dishes that were using the old slurry and I heard on IG that they were using the same slurry as the old.

It's a matter of how hot it is getting to be blunt; even if I quickly move the flame around I create hot spots because I am heating up so much more mass. I have not noticed anything bad from it; I will change up my cleaning as I have the new S-Series Assembly showing up in a few days.

100$ for another Nimbus dish doesn't bother me that much as historically I have made my old sic dish last over a year torching every other day without issue. This is likely because 100$ won't hurt me much.

My slim series stays in place, but I have friends that pick up the pipe, tilt it to hit it, and the carb cap falls off......stoners!

I use a inline carb from thick ass glass, but those same friends invariably pull the hot forked carb cap to clear the pipe, lol.

Don't get the Quartz Dabber from D-nail for 150$ as it's exceptionally easy to bump off while in use sending it flying.

 

[FlyingLow]

really? Does the quartz dabber and cap not seat onto the nail like the Ti does?

 

[ensabbahnur]

It's a matter of how hot it is getting to be blunt; even if I quickly move the flame around I create hot spots because I am heating up so much more mass.

Im certainly not doubting its happened at this point, but I strongly feel there is something else going on because I PROMISE you I've gotten my Halos hotter for longer then you have. The more mass you're heating would mean less heat spots, even if its a larger surface area, You'd get more hot spots if it was the same mass spread into a larger and therefor thinner shape but the Nimbus looks the same thickness all around as the Halo aside from The height of the channel. I cannot stress enough how maliciously Ive torched the SIC Halo, Im literally talking 5+ mins of straight non stop with a torch that almost spits dragons fire.

At any rate Im not gonna stress about it until they smooth out their new product stack which is why I suspect a possible manufacturing difference in the new dishes, but Im just guessing as I can't otherwise explain the whitening with the info available.

 

[LesPlenty]

I have employed the service of Shanes (@710Coils) coil clips to stop my Halo slim series wobbles by attaching the heater arm to my dropdown until I get a PTFE adapter,

 

[damm]

really? Does the quartz dabber and cap not seat onto the nail like the Ti does?

I was going to try and explain this but let me just show you a picture and then explain it.

So it sits over the top of the dish. The Titanium hooks inside the dish to stay secure so if you hit it; it will wobble and land back in position. I'm honestly very very lucky this is still in 1 piece I think.

Once the S-Series shows up I will pick up a Channel Cap. It has absolutely no way to secure itself to the Nimbus/Halo just sits on top.

 

[LesPlenty]

I was going to try and explain this but let me just show you a picture and then explain it.

So it sits over the top of the dish. The Titanium hooks inside the dish to stay secure so if you hit it; it will wobble and land back in position. I'm honestly very very lucky this is still in 1 piece I think.

Once the S-Series shows up I will pick up a Channel Cap. It has absolutely no way to secure itself to the Nimbus/Halo just sits on top.

I find my Ti falls off very easily if bumped too, so the quartz is even more tippy?

 

[damm]

I find my Ti falls off very easily if bumped too, so the quartz is even more tippy?

Most of the time when I slap my ti it wobbles and eventually lands back in the right spot. There is not enough weight for that to happen so if you hit it with your hand it will likely go flying.

I'll make my order next week on the Channel Cap and we'll see. It has no way to secure better but I think being completely a flick of the finger won't be as scary to me.

 

[damm]

It came early haven't washed it here's a few pictures for you guys to go over.

I'm not sure if this is low enough on the lug nut for me to use a Channel Cap after all I'll likely follow up with D-Nail about that. Unless the Channel Cap isn't flat (which it looks to be) this won't work. That said it still looks dope and no more titanium is going to be amazing.

P.S. If you get it; be careful with the threading I totally see people cross threading or worse if you don't take your time and pay attention to the resistance