Customized vape setups

VWFringe

VWFringe

Naruto Fan
2clicker, my hakko's at 30% and dont see such a bright cherry, where's yours set at?

pappy, I remember you saying the bubbles stack better when the holes are facing up, is that still generally true? does it matter with vapor bonging? it seemed like the video they stack all the way up to the (splash?) guard
 
VWFringe,
2clicker

2clicker

Observer
budballer said:
hey 2clicker im curious how did you attach the glass to that soldering iron? Also is it safe to use that orange rubberish material around that high heat? Is there any metal in the air path as well that could leech toxins? I was considering making a similar build but i want to make sure its safe first, wondered if you've done any research on the safety of a unit like that. not to be bashing, seems like a great product.
Click to expand...

no worries. i did do research. I did it all on here mostly... there is another thread titled "DIY hakko vape" or something like that. there are a ton of quality members on this forum that can help a lot.

basically there is only glass, ceramic, and stainless steel in the air path on my hakko vape. that is the same as any SSV, DBV, etc... all of the metal that comes into contact with the heating elements on hakko irons is stainless steel. i got that from hakko themselves.

as for the reddish/orange rubber you see there. it is extreme high temperature silicone that can withstand up to 800+deg. so its not a factor. that is also why i used the red stuff. because you cant get the extreme high temp silicone in anything but the red.

attaching the heater cover to the iron is easy. first you remove the soldering tip by unscrewing the nut around the "tip sleeve". when the nut is removed you can then slide the tip sleeve off of the element and the tip then can slide out of the sleeve. the tip is not needed. then youll need to take a small tubing cutter to the sleeve to shorten it about half way. after that re-install the sleeve w/ nut to the iron. you should have a hakko that looks almost normal, but the element is sticking out of the sleeve instead of the tip. at this point you can push the heater cover into half of the silicone tubing and the other half onto the sleeve. in this case the older style DBV heater cover (larger ID) is almost a perfect fit... and that is where the high temp silicone tubing really comes in. it has a smaller ID than the ODs of the heater cover and sleeve. this puts pressure on both surfaces holding them in place on the iron. the other peice of silicone is purely a stand that cannot be lost.

that is basically it. the hakko heats up to vaping temps in under a min and retains heat like no other vape ive ever used. in fact heat retention is not even an issue. i also wanna say that hakko is more than supportive of customers using their product for medical use.

hope this helps
 
2clicker,
2clicker

2clicker

Observer
VWFringe said:
2clicker, my hakko's at 30% and dont see such a bright cherry, where's yours set at?
Click to expand...

well im using the adjustable temp hakko 556SE so i have the dial set at 7 usually. sometimes 8 if i really wanna get some stout clouds.

i still have my hakko 456 vape as well. i had to make a dimmer box for it and all that. i think we keep that one around 35-40% usually.

my 556SE element def glows brighter, but i think its due to it having a smaller diameter than my 456. about half in fact, but that does not affect the performance at all. the 456 barely starts to turn pink at prime vaping temps, but the 556SE gets bright orange on about a 3/4" section of the element. as you can see in the video.

 
2clicker,
Pappy

Pappy

shmaporist
5870973943_7fd952f096_z.jpg


5871530820_c37983d49a_z.jpg


5871530312_5821be9397_b.jpg
 
Pappy,
budballer

budballer

Well-Known Member
2clicker thanks so much! I might make my own version of an ssv with your idea, hope you don't mind. Do you think I could just use a $30 hakko with ceramic element and a light dimmer though? I feel like that way I could get lower temps than 392 and maybe better fine tuning. I have a thermocouple so I can mark off what position is which temp etc.

Oh and would the new dbv heater cover work? Even if it isn't as good of a fit? I'd order it direct from 7th floor.
 
budballer,
VWFringe

VWFringe

Naruto Fan
budballer said:
2clicker thanks so much! I might make my own version of an ssv with your idea, hope you don't mind. Do you think I could just use a $30 hakko with ceramic element and a light dimmer though? I feel like that way I could get lower temps than 392 and maybe better fine tuning. I have a thermocouple so I can mark off what position is which temp etc.

Oh and would the new dbv heater cover work? Even if it isn't as good of a fit? I'd order it direct from 7th floor.
Click to expand...

here's a link to one of the other threads where 2clicker posted his first hakko with a dimmer.
Homemade Vaporizers

i don't use a glass heater cover, mines later in that thread

the problem with commonly available dimmers is they are all rated for 600 watts, giving you less than 3 degrees of adjustment for a 60 watt iron you want to run at less than 50% - it's probably just a pot and a couple of parts, but beyond my electronics knowledge
 
VWFringe,
SkollIstKrieg

SkollIstKrieg

Well-Known Member
It's been a while since I last posted, so I figured I'd post some pics of my recent additions.

Luke Wilson 15-arm
IMG_1147.jpg


Ben Wilson Worked Inline
IMG_1163.jpg


Current Family Shot
IMG_1068.jpg
 
SkollIstKrieg,
budballer

budballer

Well-Known Member
VWFringe said:
budballer said:
2clicker thanks so much! I might make my own version of an ssv with your idea, hope you don't mind. Do you think I could just use a $30 hakko with ceramic element and a light dimmer though? I feel like that way I could get lower temps than 392 and maybe better fine tuning. I have a thermocouple so I can mark off what position is which temp etc.

Oh and would the new dbv heater cover work? Even if it isn't as good of a fit? I'd order it direct from 7th floor.
Click to expand...

here's a link to one of the other threads where 2clicker posted his first hakko with a dimmer.
Homemade Vaporizers

i don't use a glass heater cover, mines later in that thread

the problem with commonly available dimmers is they are all rated for 600 watts, giving you less than 3 degrees of adjustment for a 60 watt iron you want to run at less than 50% - it's probably just a pot and a couple of parts, but beyond my electronics knowledge
Click to expand...


Sorry could you explain what you mean about the 3 degrees of adjustability a little more? Would a lower cottage dimmer be better..?
 
budballer,
VWFringe

VWFringe

Naruto Fan
i have a 60 watt iron on a 600 watt dimmer.

on my rig i turn it up to 30% (turn the dial of the dimmer one third the way from off to full on) before vapor begins, and at 33% I get combustion. I hope that illustrates what I meant by 3 degrees, it's just how much I can turn the knob, between vapor and combustion.

I believe something other than a dimmer would allow more fine adjustment of the temperature, tho the dimmer does work, I just have to be carefull to mark the spot where I want it, and can't turn it down as much as others talk about.

I 'think' a sixty or one hundred watt dimmer would allow more adjustment also, but am not sure. And, thought it's prolly only a couple of parts to make something, i'm electrically challenged...ideally you'd want something that gives you the entire throw of the pot for just our temperature range of 250-450.
 
VWFringe,
Vaporisateur

Vaporisateur

Senior Marijuanist
@SkollIstKrieg Very nice collection bro and your glass is CLEAN :) I really like your inline. Thanks for sharing! Videos would be awesome! ;)
 
Vaporisateur,
2clicker

2clicker

Observer
VWFringe said:
i have a 60 watt iron on a 600 watt dimmer.

on my rig i turn it up to 30% (turn the dial of the dimmer one third the way from off to full on) before vapor begins, and at 33% I get combustion. I hope that illustrates what I meant by 3 degrees, it's just how much I can turn the knob, between vapor and combustion.

I believe something other than a dimmer would allow more fine adjustment of the temperature, tho the dimmer does work, I just have to be carefull to mark the spot where I want it, and can't turn it down as much as others talk about.

I 'think' a sixty or one hundred watt dimmer would allow more adjustment also, but am not sure. And, thought it's prolly only a couple of parts to make something, i'm electrically challenged...ideally you'd want something that gives you the entire throw of the pot for just our temperature range of 250-450.
Click to expand...

thats weird Fringe... my dimmer has all kinds of headroom between beginning vapor and combustion. ill have to look at it the next time im around it. i keep that one at the shop, my DBV at home, and my adjustable hakko in my jeep. i am never w/out a vape. but ill take a look at my dimmer switch and see what wattage its rated at.
 
2clicker,
2clicker

2clicker

Observer
budballer said:
2clicker thanks so much! I might make my own version of an ssv with your idea, hope you don't mind. Do you think I could just use a $30 hakko with ceramic element and a light dimmer though? I feel like that way I could get lower temps than 392 and maybe better fine tuning. I have a thermocouple so I can mark off what position is which temp etc.

Oh and would the new dbv heater cover work? Even if it isn't as good of a fit? I'd order it direct from 7th floor.
Click to expand...

make whatever you want. i wont mind at all. in fact i cant mind much because i didnt really come up with the concept. others online had been tinkering with SSV heater covers and soldering irons. i just changed the heater cover to a DBV heater cover (cuz i already had a DBV) because i wanted the GonG joint on there to connect directly to my slide/bowl/wands that i had 7th floor make for me.

i can use these as a wand by simply attaching tubing to the small end... or as a slide with any water tool with a 14mm or 19mm GonG joint.

photo2-1.jpg
 
2clicker,
budballer

budballer

Well-Known Member
oh 2clicker one more thing, i've been reading a lot about these ceramic heating elements. Apparently they're all made of aluminum oxide. Doesnt it scare you that you might be inhaling small radical ions? or off gassing from the top and bottom of the element from where the hardware is inside? I'm considering creating it still... bt i'll cover the ceramic in some thin copper tube from lowes and pinch off one end. sound do-able? will i have enough space if i used either the ssv or da buddha cover?
 
budballer,
Stu

Stu

Maconheiro
Staff member
I've recently been chilling my BW inline in my beer fridge for frosty vape hits. The water gets chilled, and the glass gets frosty (reminds me of drinking a beer from a chilled pint glass). The hits are unbelieveably smooth and really refreshingly cool.

I have 2 questions:

1) Does anyone else do this?

2) How dangerous is this for my piece?

Does the change of temperature stress the glass to the point that it could crack? I don't leave it in the fridge long enough to possible freeze the water (although it could happen if left in overnight.... not an unreal possibility for a vapehead like me). The longest I've left it in the fridge was about an hour or so and the current temp in there is 32 F.

bwchilled.jpg

I really enjoy these frosty hits, but if I'm taking too big of a risk with such expensive glass, then I may re-think doing this.

Anyone??
:peace:
 
Stu,
SD_haze

SD_haze

Well-Known Member
sufficient heat could crack frozen glass.

however, you arent applying a direct flame like smoking.

so depending on the vaporizer im sure there wouldnt be enough heat to crack quality glass
 
SD_haze,
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom