Collyland Aromatizer (formerly Vapbong by Art of Vapor)
- Thread starter Used2use
- Start date
coolbreeze
Well-Known Member
Mine is very stable. Crank it up to preheat for 15-20 mins, turn back down to about 10.7 and it really just sits there. It's been stable anywhere within the usable range.
bossman
Gentleman Of Leisure
Mine too: I start it maybe .6 over where I'll want it and it drifts down as it warms up and then stays put pretty much.
I saw the fancy diy thing from REFC. The how-to video of pressing, holding and scrolling to get boost or whatever seemed like more than I was looking for in an upgrade.
I forget what @Shit Snacks told me: is the Advanced Telemetry Module a vvps on its own or does it need to be paired with something else?
I guess what I'm saying is that I'd be down to upgrade my vvps to something less janky (including the REFC ATM) as long as I didn't have to build it myself or engage with submenus when I use it.
I saw the fancy diy thing from REFC. The how-to video of pressing, holding and scrolling to get boost or whatever seemed like more than I was looking for in an upgrade.
I forget what @Shit Snacks told me: is the Advanced Telemetry Module a vvps on its own or does it need to be paired with something else?
I guess what I'm saying is that I'd be down to upgrade my vvps to something less janky (including the REFC ATM) as long as I didn't have to build it myself or engage with submenus when I use it.
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Yes ATM is a VVPS, and no you don't need to go through menus to use it, you press a button to turn it on, you can use the knob to set the voltage. You can have preset buttons for preset voltage which is useful, but not necessary to use it... Mine was not a DIY, I bought it from Red already built, with everything I needed, the ATM goes into a power supply and needs adapter plugs on either side, and the cable that would go into the vape (adapter needed for vapbong)
bossman
Gentleman Of Leisure
Are you saying that the ATM kit uses/comes with a power cable with a big brick in the middle? You said it is a vvps but then you said it goes into a power supply and that's where I got confused
All the needed links are on REFC page. You get the bay for the controller and what you need to wire it. Then webpage has link to needed cords and power brick needed to complete the build. Once in hand, maybe 15 min to build
Yep, agreed. It took me not even 5 minutes to build mine. Although I suppose it was longer if you count the time to watch Red's video. Anyway, it is literally 4 screws and 2 nuts.
It does require a 24V power adapter, but the output voltage is set by the little stepdown converter.
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
I'm not aware of any of VVPS other than the cheap style one that comes with Collyland and Cloud Connoisseur that plugs directly into the wall and into the vape... Most VVPS are plugged into a separate wall wart power supply, then the actual VVPS controls the power output etc with more info displayed on the ATM screen along with the extra features... I bought everything together from Red all good to go, he hooked me up with his own power supply he was using lol because I didn't want to DIY or buy anything from anywhere else myself, great guy! I don't have the proper adapter to use it with my OABs however, not as necessary since a big benefit for me is being able to use a different longer cord cable with my other handheld vapes, I don't mind the standard Collyland VVPS for my own aromatizer needs... Oh also Alan @toasy-top.com offers a watt meter that can be plugged in between the VVPS and bandit to see more stats btw
He probably has to practice a bit before getting started.
I sent all the stuff he needs last week so soon he will hopefully be able to do the job !
Sorry for the late answer..
vapirtoo
Well-Known Member
Just for giggles, I broke out the old Launch box and had a good time for one whole day.
Today I took the left-overs from the LB and vaped them in my Vapbong and the thick
milky vapor reminded me why this vape is so good.
I knew the ABV wasn't cashed, but whoa; this thing is a cloud monster!.
Today I took the left-overs from the LB and vaped them in my Vapbong and the thick
milky vapor reminded me why this vape is so good.
I knew the ABV wasn't cashed, but whoa; this thing is a cloud monster!.
Zuhdj
Charles Mingus
So how about that US repair man? My unit has been out of commission since November and, as much as I'd love to just send it to Portugal to get it fixed, customs scares me. It's a little annoying that my unit has been broken for more than half of my time owning it
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Write us an email at info@colly.land. We are ready to do repairs in the US now
Zuhdj
Charles Mingus
Thank gosh! I'm so excited to get the vapbong back in action. Will he be able to diagnose the issue and let me know how to avoid it in the future ?
OK so this is really my first post outside of comments or questions......Im relatively new to vapbong...have had for about 6 months....I was so impressed with the first classic vapbong that I bought several more and have sold every one I bought to friends except for the few Im keeping for myself. That said.....the unit performs much more consistently with REDS power supply setup---but its not as cheap as the original........I would like some feedback if there is any way to clean the dirt that forms in the cracks from heat in the ceramic??????? I have tried just about everything out there in terms of portable and desktop vapes.......without question.......all things considered....ease of use, vapor, etc......the vapbong is the very best overall unit out there, yes we can get picky about taste........or some other picky issues......but any of the units that might be better or close require so much more work I dont consider them as competition. One thing I brought to Daniels attention was that the ball placement is very important to making the unit function properly and I suggested a small mark on the ball and the unit fro alignment--thus the seal is perfect every time..........I have done this with a tiny bit of high heat ceramic paint--Amazon about $2.00.......that said I can be blasted but its still very easy to line up a mark...........when I figure out how to get a pic up here I will show you with a pic. Anyway I feel its a good edition and any of my friends have adapted the same philosophy. I appreciate feedback on cleaning the heat cracks.......KID
passenger
is this thing on?
It's probably not possible to deep clean that, but better refrain from using strong cleaning agents. I use brushes and just a drop of soap for cleaning this vapor bazooka. The darkened ceramics below the crazing / hairline cracks can not be cleaned but i give it a brief rub with ethanol wipes every now and then.
My herb nut has insides spots without any glazing and these spots turned brownish over the time. Not a problem at all.
My herb nut has insides spots without any glazing and these spots turned brownish over the time. Not a problem at all.
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Yeah unfortunately I don't know what can be done with the cleaning, that is part of why I don't use mine as often anymore (and because I have way too much glass now lol) but I am going to get on them and wreck myself properly again finally! I was last using a little bit of apple cider vinegar, a little bit of iso, then just hot water rinses...
I just got my second ATM from him, so I can have one in each room (main living room and bedroom living room) with the adapter for Collyland so I'm excited to try it with my bandits! True the original it comes with is like $10, this one is $150 pre-built (cheaper if you DIY) but it is truly fantastic!
I just got my second ATM from him, so I can have one in each room (main living room and bedroom living room) with the adapter for Collyland so I'm excited to try it with my bandits! True the original it comes with is like $10, this one is $150 pre-built (cheaper if you DIY) but it is truly fantastic!
deadlytoaster
Canadian lost in Europe
Can you share a link to this REDS power supply thingy? Can't find anything with search. ty
Shit Snacks
Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Can you share a link to this REDS power supply thingy? Can't find anything with search. ty
The Advanced Telemetry Module by REFC Labs - The world's first advanced precision & multi-core capable desktop heater controller
Okay ya’ll, it’s here! Tiny and beautiful but I’m so stupid I can’t figure out how to change the voltage out. Ive gone into the menu but with no documentation, I don’t want to fuck this up. I also don’t want to send 24.73V through my heaters. I feel so stupid since it seems to be plug & play for...
fuckcombustion.com
vapirtoo
Well-Known Member
Hey folks!
I thought everyone was so stoned all the time that we forget to chime in from
time to time.
My daily (morning) cleaning routine has come down to; wet brushing with baking powder
(mild abrasive) then with dish soap followed by a hot water rinse.
I don't really know if the cranberry extract is working, but a flashlight inspection of
the inside of my Vapbong with carb looks really good.
This routine takes 3-4 minutes tops.
I really do not sweat the power supply fluctuations. 10.1 to 10.5 is all good.
When I discover where the U.S. repair shop is, I'll become a stalker. LOL
I thought everyone was so stoned all the time that we forget to chime in from
time to time.
My daily (morning) cleaning routine has come down to; wet brushing with baking powder
(mild abrasive) then with dish soap followed by a hot water rinse.
I don't really know if the cranberry extract is working, but a flashlight inspection of
the inside of my Vapbong with carb looks really good.
This routine takes 3-4 minutes tops.
I really do not sweat the power supply fluctuations. 10.1 to 10.5 is all good.
When I discover where the U.S. repair shop is, I'll become a stalker. LOL
The "dark cracks" are a special behaviour of the ceramics that we are using, called "Craquelé". You can´t clean this, the cracks will become darker and darker within time like a patina. In old japanese ceramics they even tried to get this patina as strong as possible.
Would these repairs include things like fixing and cosmetically covering the cracks in my Ancient Berzerker that occurred during shipping?
Arawfish
Green Thumb
Craquelé is just French for Crackled. I wouldn’t call this a special behaviour... Without trying to sound too harsh, is this not considered a defect in the glaze within the Ceramics community? And is considered a defect because it weakens the item as well as harbours Bacteria? Also is it not true that an item with “Crazing” or “Craquelé” can no longer be considered food safe?
I’ve seen the results of this Crazing in action during personal experience using Everclear alcohol in my cleaning, and then literally watching resin seep through the outside walls the next day.
The following information is from wikipedia about crackels/craquele. I have no information that crackels are not food safe or causing bacteria.
If you have any issues with your device, send us a photo or even better a video and we will check it.
"In the manufacture of ceramics, craquelure forms as a result of the different coefficients of expansion of the base material and glaze during firing; in particular, the Raku ceramics produced in Japan have corresponding surfaces.
With light tin/lead glazes (such as the basic glaze for majolica or faience) which are barely visible after firing, the hairline cracks fill up with darker particles over time and thus become more and more visible. Dark and opaque glazes, such as the "bottle green" often used for older tiled stoves, are less likely to darken the glaze cracks, and the original appearance usually remains unchanged for years.
With glazed stove tiles, which have to be particularly heat-resistant, fine cracks in the glaze are more common. This is particularly desirable for very large tile parts. This makes the ceramic more resistant to breakage due to temperature fluctuations, since the less flexible glaze can "go along" with the more expanding ceramic body.
Gemstones are artificially crackled by heating the stone and then rapidly cooling it down. The cracks can also be highlighted with a color polish."