So the locking nut should be tightened with some sort of tool then? I was afraid to do that, just tightened the crap out of it with my fingers. It does not seem loose, but should I try to tighten it as much as possible? This might explain why my wife is ready to go back to the 710whip for her dabs... Something like some of those rubber tipped pliers i guess would be best to use for this purpose, right?
CCA Liger banger V3.0
- Thread starter mrbonsai420
- Start date
So the locking nut should be tightened with some sort of tool then? I was afraid to do that, just tightened the crap out of it with my fingers. It does not seem loose, but should I try to tighten it as much as possible? This might explain why my wife is ready to go back to the 710whip for her dabs... Something like some of those rubber tipped pliers i guess would be best to use for this purpose, right?
Gn0sis
Well-Known Member
I just used regular metal pliers. Tightening it all the way makes a BIG difference in performance. I don't really care about scratches on the bottom part of my liger where I don't ever look. I'll take a scratched better performing liger over a "perfectly looking" one that doesn't give satisfying hits any day.
On a side note,
I messaged Josh the other day in Instagram DMs asking him if he plans on making a special tool for the locking nut that would make it easier to tighten/loosen it, because I would 100% buy it. What he said instead is that he plans to do away with the locking nut entirely and replace it with something else that he got in the works... Should be interesting to see what he comes up with. I hope it improves the heat transfer even more.
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Danksta
Well-Known Member
Guess I'll wait for the new locking method. My flat coil is held hostage by the 30mm atm and I'd rather not buy yet another bucket I will need tools to unlock. Thanks for the heads up
Marihuana
Iso Tensei
I'm telling ya, it's completely possible to brute force the 30mm with nothing but your own two hands. I've had to do it what, three times now? It's the same concept as strongmen bending horseshoes (and I'm lanky as could be). It'll feel like it won't give no matter what, but if you hold the pressure long enough, it will.
Also, instead of soaking the SiC insert you could simply crank your enail to 900-ish with the insert in the bucket and leave it that way for about 30 minutes to an hour. Of course, you would also want a safe place to rest the Liger. After qtipping and again letting it sit at a high temperature afterward, the chazz just disappears. Totally low-effort technique, never failed me once.
Also, instead of soaking the SiC insert you could simply crank your enail to 900-ish with the insert in the bucket and leave it that way for about 30 minutes to an hour. Of course, you would also want a safe place to rest the Liger. After qtipping and again letting it sit at a high temperature afterward, the chazz just disappears. Totally low-effort technique, never failed me once.
I just cleaned my SIC dish according to the instructions on the cca site and noticed something. With my pid set to 225 the water did not boil. I ended up running at 255, and still no boiling, but my insert looks brand new. Shouldn't the water actually bubble at that temp? Is this discrepancy possibly behind the wispy hits I seem to be getting at 550 or so?
scalescliffs
cashed
Are you capping that 550 hit? That’s a very, very low temp dab for SiC. Your pid should boil water at 295, try that. I clean my 20mm sapphire at 295
Yeah, capping with the tsunami(?) which seems to work as well as possible. Even with it though, it seems impossible to take even the smallest dab in one hit. On the plus side, they taste great! My wife likens it to hitting the DTV3 pen, and she will choose the 710 whip every time over the longer because "it gives a real dab"
Here it is, don't mind my dog in the background
Here it is, don't mind my dog in the background
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lazylightning
It's an obsession but it's pleasin'
So I just got a Gordo riptide bubble cap today and have been testing it with my Liger 20mm. I'm shocked at how much more effective it seems to be than any of the other caps I've tried, including the Gordo riptide directional, Mobius directional, Chinese bubble, Hurricane and Storm Cell. The Riptide bubble hits harder than any of those by a good margin.
One thing I've noticed in the 4 or 5 hits I've taken with it is how much more rosin seems to be ending up in the bubbler. Anyone know or want to theorize why that might be? I'm picturing the bubble cap blasting the oil up out of the dish so it gets nebulized and sucked into the bubbler before it is vaporized.
One thing I've noticed in the 4 or 5 hits I've taken with it is how much more rosin seems to be ending up in the bubbler. Anyone know or want to theorize why that might be? I'm picturing the bubble cap blasting the oil up out of the dish so it gets nebulized and sucked into the bubbler before it is vaporized.
alittledabwilldoya'
Sapphire Powered Dabstronaut.
For the 20mm the Bubble Riptide is my favorite as well.
I also noticed the minor "blowback" reclaim accumulation in/around the Riptide holes.
May be because the reduced volume in the Riptide channels causes increased air speed with resulting turbulence around the bubbles spout?
That and the snout is a bit long.
Chadbro bubble comes in second for the 20mm IMO and has a slightly more restricted airflow than the Riptide Bubble.
@matthend I've never run as low as 550* on the 30mm.
More like 640*-700*; it takes a lot of power to get that mass up to temperature.
And tighten the fuck out of that locking nut.
And you can check your coil; sometimes spreading the coil out a bit gets it in contact with more of the bucket (I've only needed to altered one coil in this fashion, so might be a dead end).
edit: your dog looks like he's feeling guilty: "What? Who? Me? Dab all the rosin?!?"
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Lmao, he is looking at me like that because I made him move from laying on my feet so I could put the nail on the take and take a pic.
I did actually tighten the Shit out of the nut this morning, I may try spreading the coil a bit next if the higher temp doesn't do it. Sounds like the August haus coil may be a good investment at some point. I really really want to love this setup!
I did actually tighten the Shit out of the nut this morning, I may try spreading the coil a bit next if the higher temp doesn't do it. Sounds like the August haus coil may be a good investment at some point. I really really want to love this setup!
Gn0sis
Well-Known Member
the 30mm doesn't shine to it's full potential without the AH coil. After I switched, I realized its a necessity. I spoke to Josh about it too and he agreed. He's looking to get them on the CCA website asap so that it can become the new standard.
sick rig if that's a real one
alittledabwilldoya'
Sapphire Powered Dabstronaut.
I didn't like the 30mm until I picked my Hex-Nail.
Prior to that I was on the 20mm.
I do have (and like) the AugustHaus coil + larger CCA shroud, however I prefer the standard flat w/ Hex-Nail tuning for the specific nail/insert vs the AH coil run on the Hex-Nail w/o a tune.
I have a package with an AH coil + shroud to send in to fine ladies at HN for tuning when they get caught up with their current release.
I'm thinking that combo could be near the end game.
A hex nail is 100% on my list occupying the spot the liger used to. Honestly that probably won't be for a few months or so at least, so the ah coil and shroud will be a good investment in the meantime. I was curious about the retaining washer though, would that help in my predicament?
ensabbahnur
Hash Vacuum
In a general reply to the last few posts, and as always, just my opinions and observations.
I don't think I've ever even once finished a 30mm Liger dab in 1 hit, I also run mine as low as 510 on the daily with zero issues using the Wierdeer cap, getting 3-7 full milk, full lung fulls.
I do not at all think the AH coil is the magic bullet everyone is making it out to be, Ive been using it for months now and I agree fully that it IS "better" in that it makes an already thermally stable device even more stable but in my experience, it otherwise makes minimal difference, across a wide range of temps, vs the normal 30mm coil in vapor quality or quantity, so little a difference in fact Im strongly temped to figure out how to make videos of my dabs and post them just for either my own sanity or finding out if I, however unlikely, have a coil issue. I also feel actually visually analyzing whats going on with the dab will help turn theories and hypotheses into facts and techniques that work across the board. I firmly believe the carb cap is to blame for not getting great chugs but thats why you have at least 6 strong and varied opinions on what is "the cap to end all caps" as every one basically claims their solution is the way to go. I feel the negative pressure and the airflow generated by cap has to be just right to make these rigs shine, thats a fact thats been beaten to death time and again with many nails but I think it bears repeated yet again as this hobby is still inaccurate as much as it is a science, it'll take some time and most likely more purchases to get everything nailed down. As far as different caps producing different amounts of reclaim I think that shows there is too much air flow going in and either you're making a ton more vapor and its all recondensing, or its splashing around and getting vacuumed right up into the condenser pipe without hitting the walls, which I think with how long the nipple is on the Gordo ball, is pretty likely.
I don't think I've ever even once finished a 30mm Liger dab in 1 hit, I also run mine as low as 510 on the daily with zero issues using the Wierdeer cap, getting 3-7 full milk, full lung fulls.
I do not at all think the AH coil is the magic bullet everyone is making it out to be, Ive been using it for months now and I agree fully that it IS "better" in that it makes an already thermally stable device even more stable but in my experience, it otherwise makes minimal difference, across a wide range of temps, vs the normal 30mm coil in vapor quality or quantity, so little a difference in fact Im strongly temped to figure out how to make videos of my dabs and post them just for either my own sanity or finding out if I, however unlikely, have a coil issue. I also feel actually visually analyzing whats going on with the dab will help turn theories and hypotheses into facts and techniques that work across the board. I firmly believe the carb cap is to blame for not getting great chugs but thats why you have at least 6 strong and varied opinions on what is "the cap to end all caps" as every one basically claims their solution is the way to go. I feel the negative pressure and the airflow generated by cap has to be just right to make these rigs shine, thats a fact thats been beaten to death time and again with many nails but I think it bears repeated yet again as this hobby is still inaccurate as much as it is a science, it'll take some time and most likely more purchases to get everything nailed down. As far as different caps producing different amounts of reclaim I think that shows there is too much air flow going in and either you're making a ton more vapor and its all recondensing, or its splashing around and getting vacuumed right up into the condenser pipe without hitting the walls, which I think with how long the nipple is on the Gordo ball, is pretty likely.
@VaPeD&CoNfUsEd is working on a cap similar to the weirdeer, along with another design he thinks will work as well or better. I am very curious to try these, although my current cap seems to seal really well
@ensabbahnur , do you think the cash for the coil and shroud would be better pour into the hex nail fund then?
@ensabbahnur , do you think the cash for the coil and shroud would be better pour into the hex nail fund then?
ensabbahnur
Hash Vacuum
Ive asked him to make me 1 to try out, he has them priced much better than the Wierdeer. I think you should try a few more caps before dropping more money on a new controller or coil, especially since your issue is arguably the most common one for the 30mm and you have an Omron controller.
buddingglasshead
Well-Known Member
I'm not really sure how but my air intake piece is slightly stripped. I had to flip it around to continue using my liger in the mean time. It was rocking back and forth a bit but seems to have somewhat subsided since it has claimed up a bit. Any ideas to make it functional besides buying another one? I was thinking some high temp teflon tape or something similar. Really would prefer not purchasing direct, so really up for any idea.
Thank you for that! I was one of the first in the second round and am very excited for the end of January. By that time I hope to have a flat liger with obsidian/SiC insert and a AH coil, but unlikely. It'll be awesome if they are able to get the tunings by then. Not even going to bother using a standard flat coil.
He's an awesome dude. He made me a rig recently and it's in the daily rotation. Also made my bubble cap that works really well with the 20mm, (stellar performance on flattop quartz) but only for small dabs because it sits fairly low and causes the oil to splash up. I tend to use it as a "finishing" cap because I really feel that it does a much better job but just sits too deep to be the only cap I use.
Thank you for that! I was one of the first in the second round and am very excited for the end of January. By that time I hope to have a flat liger with obsidian/SiC insert and a AH coil, but unlikely. It'll be awesome if they are able to get the tunings by then. Not even going to bother using a standard flat coil.
My issue with the chadbro cap is that if I draw a bit hard with it fully sealed I can hear the insert jumping up. I've seen the same thing happen with a quartz insert and quartz banger.
He's an awesome dude. He made me a rig recently and it's in the daily rotation. Also made my bubble cap that works really well with the 20mm, (stellar performance on flattop quartz) but only for small dabs because it sits fairly low and causes the oil to splash up. I tend to use it as a "finishing" cap because I really feel that it does a much better job but just sits too deep to be the only cap I use.
Hogni
Honi soit qui mal y pense
Does anyone know whether the AH coil will also come for 220v? Someone said so in the past.
It currentely still ask for 110v and 150w.
BTW the Gordo riptide bubble is currentely on sale at "Quartz by Chris" for 70$
And a green one discounted at "headdy glass" for 159$
It currentely still ask for 110v and 150w.
BTW the Gordo riptide bubble is currentely on sale at "Quartz by Chris" for 70$
And a green one discounted at "headdy glass" for 159$
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lazylightning
It's an obsession but it's pleasin'
All the Gordo caps are on sale there. That's where my riptide bubble just arrived from. Only $3 shipping too.
Baron23
Well-Known Member
Controller set point and dab surface temp are not equal. With a very good fitting coil and good tight assembly, my Liger 2.0 20 mm will have about a 40 degree F delta. So, do the math and perhaps your dab surface was really not at the boiling point of water??
All - I still love my Liger 2.0, 20 mm, SiC...so I thought to buy it a x-mas present and ordered an Obsidian insert. Ordered on 28 Nov, shipped on 9 Dec, should be here this coming week. All good with me.
I have been using the Chad Bros bubble for a good while on my 20 mm V2 and I'm very happy with it.
Cheers
Yeah that was kind of the point of my post, thanks. Does this delta grow much as the temps go up? I am thinking i can work out the temp that a drop of water boils and adjust accordingly, is it that simple?
Baron23
Well-Known Member
adding a tag: @matthend
Here is a little chart I did, PIA as it takes a while for a K-type TC thermometer to settle on final temp. Also, please remember what I mentioned...this is with a very tight and spread barrel type coil for better heat transfer. The differences in delta at differing temps is small enough that I chalk that up to measurement accuracy.
Here is a little chart I did, PIA as it takes a while for a K-type TC thermometer to settle on final temp. Also, please remember what I mentioned...this is with a very tight and spread barrel type coil for better heat transfer. The differences in delta at differing temps is small enough that I chalk that up to measurement accuracy.
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ensabbahnur
Hash Vacuum
It does vary to a point, the ladies at Hex refer to it as heat capacity and each nail has a point where seems it can't soak any more heat and the "nail" reading starts to drift more and more from the "coil" set point. The Hex somehow uses your ambient temp level to factor the "nail" reading on the controller so its not just a matter of a simple offset like the Kube and Auber use. Does this mean its a better method? who knows because I still don't feel we have the proper picture regarding amount of heat transfer and our gear/methodology varies enough to be problematic.
lazylightning
It's an obsession but it's pleasin'
If you really want to be sure, get a cooking probe thermometer for meat that measures up to the high 500s. They can be had for about $15 and mine measures just as accurately as a more expensive k type unit.
My Auber RDK-300 with Liger v3 20mm had a delta of 98.
With the thermal conductivity of SiC so much higher than sapphire, for what reason do people seem to prefer sapphire?