dizaster096
Well-Known Member
I just msg him on instagram way quicker than email.
My V3 20mm should be here monday or tuesday.
My V3 20mm should be here monday or tuesday.
I have maintained since before there was any liger sapphire or SiC offering that SiC will get quicker, thicker clouds at lower temps, but with lesser flavor. Sapphire is for enjoying the flavor with a longer hit.
The best way to use sapphire nails is to leave the cap on while you exhale and take a few hits until the vapor production stops, confident that the end of the hit will taste as good as the start (if you are dabbing true 6 star, it will!). Dabbing on sapphire in this way takes slightly longer, but this allows you to use those lower temps and enjoy far superior flavor, rather than mildly superior flavor if you are jacking up sapphire temps to get faster clouds like SiC nails.
Dialling in the perfect temp with sapphire definitely takes more time than SiC because SiC has a very wide window of functional temps, whereas sapphire the range is reduced and hitting that sweet temp range is more difficult. Once you get it right though, there is no competition IME for flavor.
SiC will always win hands-down for generating the clouds more quickly and finishing the dab more quickly. For some reason, everyone I see in youtube videos stop inhaling and capping about 1/3 through their dab boiling and let the rest boil into the air. This is completely unnecessary, especially with sapphire. You can leave your carb cap on while you exhale and take a breath, then take another hit and finish the oil you would have otherwise wasted (the end of the hit still tastes great too)!
This brings me to the general topic of wasteful dabbing. I see so many people wasting a huge amount of their meds in the above fashion. If you aren't going to inhale for long enough for the entire hit to vaporize, then don't dab such large amounts! lol
As someone who makes ultra-high quality medicine, I want to make sure that I make efficient use of ALL OF IT. I am conscious that I am very privileged to enjoy such high quality material all the time - to waste it IMO is a crime against cannabis!
Especially when watching all of the popular youtube dabbing channels, I find myself thinking that we could medicate a nation off of all that wasted and high quality medicine boiling into the air off of the nail!
The big benefit of sapphire is that you can do that super low temp, long hit and waste nothing. It allows you to leave your cap on and taste your meds until no more vapor comes out of your rig (disclaimer - this is hard to achieve with the hurricane cap because it doesn't seal very well on the 30mm liger - get a storm cell cap or something that seals better and is easily left on top of the nail).
As I said above, if you want super quick, thick cloudy rips when you dab that don't taste quite as good, but still taste great - SiC is the best you can get right now. If you want to enjoy the flavor MUCH MORE with a slightly longer rip (generally an extra toke or two), then use sapphire in the way I discuss above
By the way man, your SiC full melt dabs will still taste great of course, full melt can taste outstanding compared to other extracts even if consumed with a hemp wick and a stainless steel screen over a traditional flower bowl Ain't no substitute for better quality meds as I'm sure you have noticed.
Still, nothing tastes nearly as good compared to the method I describe above on sapphire (this can be used on SiC too, but it doesn't compare)
TL : DR Different materials require different dabbing techniques IMO
But if you dab the best, you need sapphire to experience your meds greatest potential (greatest achievable with current nails that is!). IME the tastiest way to use any nail at all is to take a low temp long dab, leaving your carb on nail between exhales until the hit is finished as outlined above.
Obviously each nail has it's place depending on what you dab and how you like to dab. Still, I've never once found myself reaching for the SiC over sapphire (to be clear: I've used SiC nails for longer than anybody on FC).
By the way, I will point out that the above leave-your-cap-on-long-dab-low-temp technique does not work well with quartz, as the end of the hit starts to taste DISGUSTING and overcooked. This is why I find quartz to be last gen as a dabbing substance. It requires waste if you want good taste. Sapphire and SiC both have benefits to offer that quartz does not, and quartz has no redeeming qualities being priced like SiC.
In summary of my leave your cap on approach to dabbing:
Joe Cocker said it best!
I said this a bunch of pages back, this is why I never bother talking about the temps on my controller and comparing them with others lol - different controllers/coils etc will mean that the relationship between the number on the dial and the temp on the dish will not be the same between users and these comparisons are not useful.I feel like the core of the Ligers ability to out "perform" just about any, that anybody who tries it's previously has used is its first it's conceptually simple to use so it's reliable yet has just the right amount of complexity to allow one to "tune" ones individual dab experience to their like. Kinda like other enails or either over kill with trying to have all the bells and whistles that make it rather inconvenient and possibly rather unreliable in the satisfyingness of the dab experience.or go the other way a basic quartz or titanium nail is to me almost redundant to use with a enail setup.it's hybrid nails all the way or Might as go back to the stressfull torch scorch but I digress the balance of reliable and simple use with the right amount of ability to personalize it the individuals preference already begs me to wonder without doing away with the basic resistance heating coil monitored by a by thermal couple embedded within for some some how more synchronised and liked so also more limited like the errlectric . As long as a controller and nail can hold a steady temp for practical utilitarian use it doesnt even need to be accurate. Especially since the liger is where the dab takes place the controller is in essence a power supply. Once you learn which is your perfered liger setup for what situation(rig/dab matereial/stlye there is one for just about evey one then a fancy controller that trys to tell you what the perfect dab for you seems sorta asinine comparatively.
Well said! I use this technique even with my super terpy sugar waxes too! Leave the cap on and take a few mellow tastey hits down low, you will enjoy it!
Sorry about the website. It will be back up soon guys. You know he's still a one man show.
I said this a bunch of pages back, this is why I never bother talking about the temps on my controller and comparing them with others lol - different controllers/coils etc will mean that the relationship between the number on the dial and the temp on the dish will not be the same between users and these comparisons are not useful.
@mrbonsai420 glad to hear that you are enjoying the leave your hat on approach too! lol
I just msg him on instagram way quicker than email.
My V3 20mm should be here monday or tuesday.
Well said! I use this technique even with my super terpy sugar waxes too! Leave the cap on and take a few mellow tastey hits down low, you will enjoy it!
Sorry about the website. It will be back up soon guys. You know he's still a one man show.
I said this a bunch of pages back, this is why I never bother talking about the temps on my controller and comparing them with others lol - different controllers/coils etc will mean that the relationship between the number on the dial and the temp on the dish will not be the same between users and these comparisons are not useful.
@mrbonsai420 glad to hear that you are enjoying the leave your hat on approach too! lol
hi all. proud owner of one of the 3 first v3 ligers in germany
i want to start my first post here with something that bugs me for a while:
all this different temperatures, can we try that better and use the temperatur in the dish instead the one the heater shows? everybody's heater/coil combo is different, the dish temperature seems to be a much better temperature when compairing different rigs.
i dab @ 285°C (550F) @ heater and a baking thermometer (thermocouple) stabilizes around 230°C (450F) @ the dish. rig's a china glass diffusion pump w/ 20mm v3 liger and a sic insert.
what's the dish temperature for you guys who dab around 600-620F? only precise measurements only please, not with infrared.
so after a week of rigorous and grueling testing, I have to say that all the descriptions of the liger experience were spot on and I view the liger as an essential piece of your rig if you want to get the most flavor, effects and efficiency from your concentrates. I dab rosin and the dispersion across the bottom and up the sides of the SiC insert is perfectly uniform.
my first thought was this thing is a beast compared to my dhgate banger but after a couple of days of using this 20mm I can see the appeal of the larger surface area of the 30mm. I'll probably end up getting a 30mm bucket eventually also... uh, for purely scientific research of course.
the one issue I have is the depth of the chamfer on the intake pipe hole is a bit much and leaves only a couple of threads for the intake pipe to grip. this makes the intake pipe stick into the bucket too far and tends to collect a lot of cotton fibers from the qtips which gets annoying. but my main concern is stripping of the threads over time. on the other hand I haven't had any issues with the intake pipe loosening due to the large contact area of the deep chamfer locking so well. if @CCA710 could maybe thicken the area around the intake pipe hole, like a small boss (mechanical definition), it would give more room for both chamfer and threads.
agree with most of this, I really like the low temp dabs also as I find them more flavorful and don't mind taking multiple draws.
though I would like to hear reported temps along side actual temps measured accurately on the dish as @Seth_ did:
how long does it typically take from a cold start for your SiC temperature to stabilize and also curious as to how tight or loose your insert is compared to your friends ligers?
You can use the locking nut to thread the intake tube in as little or as much as you want. The nut is what makes the bucket tight, not being threaded all of the way in FYI. It does not have to thread into the bucket at all. If you just thread it in a little bit you can even hot swap inserts if you are careful.
Some people like the air intake to overlap the lip of the insert, others like the air intake to be flush with the side wall.
I use a small pair of pliers with a rag wrapped around the teeth to tighten mine down well. It will stay exactly where you want it whether it's barely threaded in or all the way
hi all! I'm new to enails and this forum but I splurged on a 30mm flat coil liger for my first. unfortunately I'm having the problems others have had with lackluster hits and I've already tried adjusting the coil with no success. Please, someone help me get this working right, I'm at my wits end breaking out the whole toolbox to fix something I already paid hundreds of dollars on that's supposed to come out of the box fully functional. Please don't let me be the first person to give up on the liger in disappointment.
How long ago did you get your unit delivered? Do you have the final heater shroud? If you do not know, please post a picture of your unit here and someone can help you figure it out. The original couple of heater cover parts did not make for efficient heat transfer at all with the 30mm. I am still using one of these and I definitely have to use much hotter temps than I should to get effective functioning.hi all! I'm new to enails and this forum but I splurged on a 30mm flat coil liger for my first. unfortunately I'm having the problems others have had with lackluster hits and I've already tried adjusting the coil with no success. Please, someone help me get this working right, I'm at my wits end breaking out the whole toolbox to fix something I already paid hundreds of dollars on that's supposed to come out of the box fully functional. Please don't let me be the first person to give up on the liger in disappointment.
How long ago did you get your unit delivered? Do you have the final heater shroud? If you do not know, please post a picture of your unit here and someone can help you figure it out. The original couple of heater cover parts did not make for efficient heat transfer at all with the 30mm. I am still using one of these and I definitely have to use much hotter temps than I should to get effective functioning.
but if I adjust it flush then it's still only gripping by literally 2 threads and the joint adapter at the other end is pointing up instead of down.
When I first got my Liger 2.0 I brought this issue up directly with Josh and his statement was that the intake extending just a bit into the bucket was by design so as to secure the insert from falling out. Now, as @mrbonsai420 (and Josh for that matter) said, some folks like to leave it flush so that they can exchange inserts easily.
On the other hand, there has been some recent experiences posted of inserts that were NOT secured in the bucket taking the big lemming-like dive to the floor. So, there is that also.
I will also add to this that I would never want to use the intake tube to hold the sapphire insert in place, since it may stop the insert from falling out if you turn it upside down, but also may increase the likelihood of chipping the sapphire if the bucket is rattled or turned sideways (those of you using 45 degree angled joints will probably have had their liger swing in the joint in a way that could cause this before).Since the topic of the intake protecting the insert is being discussed I thought I would add that the sapphire insert can still fall out of the v2 bucket, so be careful. The old v2 SiC was snug but the v3 sapphire has some extra room so make sure you check it out before assuming it's protected by the protruding intake tube.