Thanks for clearing up my misunderstanding. Consider me convinced.
Cannabis Hardware (formerly NewVape) FlowerPot Twax Vaporizer
- Thread starter natural farmer
- Start date
Cheebsy
Microbe minion
Hmmmmm... Now to offer an alternative thought perspective, you could argue that @Grass Yes pictures show more conduction in the shovelhead. Let me clarify... The shovelhead is stealing energy from the head by conducting between the diffuser and bowl. This results in less effect on the load inside the bowl because conduction is taking the energy from the tip of the head. The load that is getting scorched in the glass bowl is because the head retains more heat at the surface of the tip.
Caveat: I'm not sure which is true but both arguments have thier merits.
I do think that a bowl made from less conductive material leads to more energy being applied to the load, wether that also means more convection I dunno but it seems to make sense, even if the effect is minimal.
Caveat: I'm not sure which is true but both arguments have thier merits.
I do think that a bowl made from less conductive material leads to more energy being applied to the load, wether that also means more convection I dunno but it seems to make sense, even if the effect is minimal.
cvs8floz
Well-Known Member
It is just a fact for me that if you preheat the bowl (mine are all glass) and then load the material and put the head back on and let it sit for 30-60 seconds you get instant vapor that is dense and rich and requires almost no lung effort. If you don't preheat and hit a cold loaded bowl you will have to pull for 1-2 seconds before you get any vapor and your hits will be longer and require more effort, I don't understand why so many people advocate for this, I personally always use the first method.
I found this to be true for my CH B1 injector and literally none of my other baller heads.
Doktor Dub
Well-Known Member
In my experience, most of the difference between different bowls and between injector or standard head is the distance to the weed so you would need different temps to get a similar experience… so I guess the convection heavy injector glass bowl is in reality just vaping less hot.
Btw - I use around 700 or 710 on my pids and would strongly encourage everybody who is not completely satisfied with the performance of their flowerpot to turn up the temperature (WAY up)
Just my two cents
Btw - I use around 700 or 710 on my pids and would strongly encourage everybody who is not completely satisfied with the performance of their flowerpot to turn up the temperature (WAY up)
Just my two cents
Timps27
Feel like I’m winnin’ when I’m losin’ again
Just another note that SO much goes into what temp works for your setup. It’s not just what head/bowl you use, what glass are you using, how much volume does it have, how does it use high/low pressure to move fluids, what is your draw speed, etc., etc.
I run my F22 at 469 on a DC PID and absolutely milk my Goo Roo HD3 at that temp.
I'm the idiot who was spouting off saying the bowl is too big and i'm disappointed.
Turns out I just wasn't pre-heating the bowl. I didn't think I needed to with B-0 with glass bowl.
I have just been blasted into space, using less herb, at a lower temp. Also killed the bowl in two monster hits.
So my ignorance was essentially the cause of the issue. Quite happy to feel like an idiot considering my session tonight
Vapegirl666
New Member
Hi, new to the site
Currently using a B-2
The air flow is restricted as I draw through an ash catcher into a water pipe
Any thoughts on the F22?
Is it better and does an injector do a better job?
Currently using a B-2
The air flow is restricted as I draw through an ash catcher into a water pipe
Any thoughts on the F22?
Is it better and does an injector do a better job?
The B2 is the most restricted of all the current flowerpots. It is simply because there are fewer, smaller holes on the airflow side (top) of the head. Some folks have found they like it better with 4mm rubies for a bit more airflow. You could also try just switching to the B1 top (what CH calls the "nut").
The F22 should be more open but I have not yet tried one. If you read back a bit on this thread you will see some comparisons.
If it were me, I might also try branching out to other ball vape manufacturers, if I did like something about the FP.
Vapegirl666
New Member
Did read some older posts but that just made me have more questions
Things change quickly and new equipment comes out every week
Its too much
Figured I would do small changes to what I have but the big issue I know that needs change is the airflow
Did 4mm but the difference in flavor was not worth the tiny increase in airflow
There is a new head coming to the cannabis hardware line up that I have to research
Think it was called a Tom cat
Thank you for your reply
The tomcat is just a cap for the F16. It adds a diffuser side instead of the nut. So you can flip it over in a session. Seems neat but I am skeptical of this as it seems a bit like a novelty. I suspect we will see reviews in this thread soon.
Tomcat Conversion Cap (3477) | Cannabis Hardware
The Tomcat is a dual function cap engineered to expand the capability of your Flowerpot F16 head. It doubles as a cap for the F16 but also has a 22mm Diffuser. We will refer to the converted F16 as "the Tomcat". It's purpose is to facilitate Troy's (from 420 Vapezone) technique for ideal...
Hippie
Well-Known Member
Have you tried putting less balls in the B2 ?
Its a little less restricted if you don't put any balls in the thinner top section of the B2 head. I use a screen inside the body to stop them getting into that section, and keep the thinner "chimney" section clear. With the screen inside you don't need the B2 nut (3407) to hold the balls in, which opens up the airflow a little more. I use the older VROD top nut on mine, which also means that the old carb cap fits OK and you don't NEED the updated carb cap.
Its a little less restricted if you don't put any balls in the thinner top section of the B2 head. I use a screen inside the body to stop them getting into that section, and keep the thinner "chimney" section clear. With the screen inside you don't need the B2 nut (3407) to hold the balls in, which opens up the airflow a little more. I use the older VROD top nut on mine, which also means that the old carb cap fits OK and you don't NEED the updated carb cap.
Buzzkill361
Good Vibes Tribe
I just ordered one. So far the F16 has been treating me really well, so I figured why not. Worst case it’s nothing special. I’ll definitely report back with a little review on how good it works.The tomcat is just a cap for the F16. It adds a diffuser side instead of the nut. So you can flip it over in a session. Seems neat but I am skeptical of this as it seems a bit like a novelty. I suspect we will see reviews in this thread soon.
Tomcat Conversion Cap (3477) | Cannabis Hardware
The Tomcat is a dual function cap engineered to expand the capability of your Flowerpot F16 head. It doubles as a cap for the F16 but also has a 22mm Diffuser. We will refer to the converted F16 as "the Tomcat". It's purpose is to facilitate Troy's (from 420 Vapezone) technique for ideal...www.cannabishardware.com
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Vapegirl666
New Member
Thought about removing the nut but hot rubies escaping made me think twice
If memory serves me, the video that you watch for assembly recommended filling up the "neck" of the chamber
Lots of use of the term heat retention and recovery phase
Removing the rubies will get a try as a decision on a new chamber gets kicked around
Definitely wait until the vape is entirely cool before trying to take it apart. Loose rubies can be annoying though. I usually open mine over a rolling tray for exactly this reason.
Vapegirl666
New Member
I have stories....
Used the concentrate dish on top and made a mess of the rubies
There are a lot of critics of the flower pot but the B-2 does double deckers that will flatten you instantly
The clean up sucks
Used a glass baking dish lined with a Terry cloth towel and poured 99% iso over the rubies that were emptied onto the towel
Fold the towel over and soak/scrub
My first clean up.......spilled the rubies on the floor, in front of the cat
They were room temp but it was bad
They went EVERYWHERE
300 rubies
Sultana lungs
Well-Known Member
You could try using 4 mm balls that should help with the restriction that’s if you haven’t already tried 4 mm Rubys
SquirrelMaster
Well-Known Member
I went many months before I opened my B2 for its first cleaning and the insides were spotless. I'm guessing you put a massive glob in and then immediately cleaned it after it cooled? If you leave it turned on for a bit it'll burn everything off.
You said you noticed a difference (drop)in flavor going from 3mm to 4mm? If anything flavor should have improved as there is less surface area for the dab to touch the ruby. 3mm is more restrictive but more efficient for heat retention because of the increase in surface area.
Between my B2 with 4mm and B1 with 3mm, the B1 has a WAY more open airflow. I haven't tried any of the new heads as I'm very content with my airflow.
As a side note, if you dab a lot and want the pinnacle of flavor from CH, look at the T-bucket with a Sapphire insert dish.
Vapegirl666
New Member
That was the expectation for switching to 4mm and lowering the temp
Did not experiment with temps which was a mistake
My experience was a muddled flavor at the temp I was using
To many variables including the flower to pinpoint any one reason for lack of flavor
Dropped quite a bit of concentrate into the nut so the rubies got tacky
One thing I should explain is that I vape 1-3 times a day to charge my cannacaps
Dont leave my ball vape on all day so the rubies were dirty when I changed them
Honestly forget to turn the heat up for a few minutes to burn off any residue
Habit that needs development
Newbie, in case it was not apparent
Using an e-nail for concentrate
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Letaps Stash
Member
Anyone that has used the F16 injector head and then upgraded to the Tomcat diffuser conversion cap for dual injector/diffuser head. Did the PID temperature setpoint need to be adjusted higher, by how much, to get the same vaporization from injector end?
How is the airflow and PID setpoint compared to B1/B2, does the temp stay study throughout the hit or do you see a significant dip in the PV temp due to extra mass, any comparison reviews?
The Tomcat F16 is really triggering my VAS but then again it could be a novelty that rarely gets used/flipped as I have both injector and diffuser heads and mostly prefer the diffuser style. My current CH go-to is the B2 diffuser which I pre-soak bowls to temp, then load fresh herb for a quick two hit extraction.
What’s everyone’s (that has used an F16 tomcat) thoughts?
How is the airflow and PID setpoint compared to B1/B2, does the temp stay study throughout the hit or do you see a significant dip in the PV temp due to extra mass, any comparison reviews?
The Tomcat F16 is really triggering my VAS but then again it could be a novelty that rarely gets used/flipped as I have both injector and diffuser heads and mostly prefer the diffuser style. My current CH go-to is the B2 diffuser which I pre-soak bowls to temp, then load fresh herb for a quick two hit extraction.
What’s everyone’s (that has used an F16 tomcat) thoughts?
onesixty2
Well-Known Member
Have a CH accessory question-- I have the 5" heat post / island they sell, and I recently purchased the curved adapter & shield on the 7/10 deal. My heat post has a wooden spacer built onto it that is preventing me from threading the post into the spot I want it with the curved adapter & shield, the one threaded hole that doesn't overlap with the debowling section. Am I supposed to remove this wooden spacer on my heatpost? If so, does that spacer get used anymore or does it just go obsolete now that I have the curved adapter for it? Feels like I have a wrong revision mating for one of these but they were both purchased from CH within 3 months.. so i'm not sure what to make of it. Every single photo of the shield shows it threaded into that spot mine won't reach.
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Letaps Stash
Member
The space thingy is an insulator and stops/lowers the heat from the post from transferring through to the base. Older posts have shorter threaded sections and the post's most recent upgraded for 18mm injector compatibility when CH released the injector bottoms.
Timps27
Feel like I’m winnin’ when I’m losin’ again
I wish the debowler spike had the same spacer, the thread section is longer than the chase in the debowler base so there is about a 1/4” gap when it’s tight. I put a couple of spare Mighty orings in to fill the space but the spacer from the heat posts would be better.
@Timps27 how old is your unit? I just received mine yesterday from the 710 sale and my debowler goes all the way in flush. Very happy with the weight and how pretty the machining is. I need to get a couple more posts ASAP. I blindly assumed my TIODW post would fit but it’s got substantially smaller threading. My fault for not measuring.