Cannabis Hardware (formerly NewVape) FlowerPot Twax Vaporizer

[Relaxed]

What do you consider reasonable? PoTV has the S&B brushes for $3 for 3:

Cleaning Brush Set by Storz & Bickel

The Storz & Bickel Cleaning Brush Set comes with three cleaning brushes for quick cleanups and routine maintenance. ✅ Buy now with fast shipping and our unique 100% satisfaction warranty!

www.planetofthevapes.com

Although I suppose shipping might be too much on that.

Thx, they have been out of stock for a long time. Shipping is less than $3 so not too bad.

 

[GratefulDread]

Interesting idea. He even put a dimple on one side for the handle/set screw.
My initial thought was, I would just use my CH standard glass bowl if I want all-glass hits.
But I guess with this you get the conductive performance of the shovelhead bowl with a glass vapor path.
I wonder if you'd notice much of a difference in taste.

 

[Relaxed]

Speaking of conductive heat improvements, does anyone ever set the bowl on top of the head while it's heating up so that it get's warm also? I tried that out, and it sure seemed that it improved the process.

 

[Socks And Sandals]

Interesting idea. He even put a dimple on one side for the handle/set screw.
My initial thought was, I would just use my CH standard glass bowl if I want all-glass hits.
But I guess with this you get the conductive performance of the shovelhead bowl with a glass vapor path.
I wonder if you'd notice much of a difference in taste.

I'd like to see the top of the glass going in. It's just a straight tube then? It's obviously not a bowl/slide right? Looks interesting, I used my glass bowl for the first time since getting the new B2 head. at 600F.. seemed to be a very thorough extraction but I'm still experimenting.

On another note, I christened my Sapphire Dish for the first time today with my Live Shatter. After swabbing it out, it now has an amber tone to it. I think this is normal. I'm still experimenting with temps for the B2. I still haven't determined the sweet spot yet but it's somewhere between 540 and 600F for flower I believe.

Also.. any word on those V.2 T buckets being released? The very next 20% off CH sale is on 420 right? Nothing until then? Just curious.

 

[focalforlife]

I'd like to see the top of the glass going in. It's just a straight tube then? It's obviously not a bowl/slide right? Looks interesting, I used my glass bowl for the first time since getting the new B2 head. at 600F.. seemed to be a very thorough extraction but I'm still experimenting.

On another note, I christened my Sapphire Dish for the first time today with my Live Shatter. After swabbing it out, it now has an amber tone to it. I think this is normal. I'm still experimenting with temps for the B1. I still haven't determined the sweet spot yet but it's somewhere between 540 and 600F I believe.

Also.. any word on those V.2 T buckets being released? The very next 20% off CH sale is on 420 right? Nothing until then? Just curious.

Use some simply green on the dish (or an equivalent) to clean it. Just let it soak AFTER it cools down and drop it in for a minimum of 15 minutes to overnight depending on how bad it is. Mine comes out crystal clear all the time.

 

[Socks And Sandals]

Use some simply green on the dish (or an equivalent) to clean it. Just let it soak AFTER it cools down and drop it in for a minimum of 15 minutes to overnight depending on how bad it is. Mine comes out crystal clear all the time.

I don't have any simple green at the moment but will pick some up this weekend. That's reassuring knowing it comes completely clean. 91% Iso will have to work in the meantime. In order to avoid it staining, do you suggest iso soaking it after every dab? I was honestly going to wait till I finish this gram of shatter. How often do you clean it and do you think ISO will net the same results?

 

[RustyOldNail]

ISO doesn’t effect baked on reclaim. Swab with DRY QTips after every hit. Clean the sapphire dish once a week or depending on your usage. LINK BELOW, has more information on cleaning a sapphire dish:

T-Bucket Banger System by NewVape

Edmunson Optics supply certificated Sapphire/Ruby pearls in the UK.. I'm hoping they sell 8mm ones for my next order! With regards to the seam issue my first Sapphire dish had a very sharp crease and had to be cleaned via the water / iso trick but later resorted to a pin/toothpick to remove it...

fuckcombustion.com

 

[focalforlife]

I don't have any simple green at the moment but will pick some up this weekend. That's reassuring knowing it comes completely clean. 91% Iso will have to work in the meantime. In order to avoid it staining, do you suggest iso soaking it after every dab? I was honestly going to wait till I finish this gram of shatter. How often do you clean it and do you think ISO will net the same results?

Be careful of that dish and thermal shock of any kind. If you are in the us, home depot carries simply green.

 

[Socks And Sandals]

ISO doesn’t effect baked on reclaim. Swab with DRY QTips after every hit. Clean the sapphire dish once a week or depending on your usage. LINK BELOW, has more information on cleaning a sapphire dish:

T-Bucket Banger System by NewVape

Edmunson Optics supply certificated Sapphire/Ruby pearls in the UK.. I'm hoping they sell 8mm ones for my next order! With regards to the seam issue my first Sapphire dish had a very sharp crease and had to be cleaned via the water / iso trick but later resorted to a pin/toothpick to remove it...

fuckcombustion.com

Hey Rusty,

Yeah I already do that. Do you think I should be dunking the tip of the qtips in ISO first? I tried it with the Vrod and the SIC dish and it really splattered everywhere which is why I stopped using the ISO.. at least until it cools to 150F or so.

Be careful of that dish and thermal shock of any kind. If you are in the us, home depot carries simply green.

Just how sensitive is it? If I hold it under a facet (either hot or cold) and then switch it quickly to the opposite... would that shatter it? Don't get me wrong though I don't do that. Even when cleaning my glass under the tap I switch very slowly. Man when I get around to iso bathing it, I'm going to be so careful man. If It so much as slipped out of my fingers that's $150 I don't have right now. I have 2 sic dishes but hell, I don't want to go back to them after the sapphire. Oh and yeah... there really is a flavor difference with the Sapphire, did you notice it? I should prob get some live sauce to really test the flavor instead of this shatter.

On a side note and to everyone else:

When are the V.2 T-Buckets coming back and where are the 30mm Sapphire dishes? I want one so bad but not without the sapphire dish! All I need is the main assembly, a 14mm post, the flat coil and the dish. Any word from them on this?

 

[RustyOldNail]

Do you think I should be dunking the tip of the qtips in ISO first? I tried it with the Vrod and the SIC dish and it really splattered everywhere which is why I stopped using the ISO.. at least until it cools to 150F or so

When I’m vaping with my DCup & 30mm Sapphire dish, I QTip DRY, immediately after every hit to cleanup any leftover oils. I never use any liquids on a hot dish, and it’s unnecessary if you mop after a hit, while the residual oil is still warm/hot.

I NEVER use ISO on anything I’m going to end up tastings, due to the BITTERANTS they add to ISO.
I use 190 proof ETHANOL I buy by the gallon, it’s SAFE to drink, leaves no bitter taste behind. For smaller quantities, you can try to get 190 proof EVERCLEAR at a liquor store. (same stuff)

ISO is NOT part of my routine, the next day I wipe off the surface of the dish, and QTip the airpath with Ethanol, just so the surfaces are clean for the next time I use it. When the resin vapor gets under the cup, and gets BAKED ON, that’s when I do a SIMPLE GREEN CRYSTAL soak. It takes many sessions before I need to soak. The dry Qtipping of the Sapphire dish between hits, keeps the inner surface clean, that you dab off of.

Just how sensitive is it? If I hold it under a facet (either hot or cold) and then switch it quickly to the opposite... would that shatter it?

I’ve read an extreme temperature change of 300F, can cause the SHOCK that can crack Sapphire, but I’m not planning on testing it. If you get bad blowback of water from your rig, and water ends up hitting that hot sapphire dish it will CRACK. ( my sic dish is backup)

Man when I get around to iso bathing it, I'm going to be so careful man.

I’ve given you my opinion on this a few times now. If the resin is baked on ISO doesn’t work, but you will find this out on your own.

On a side note and to everyone else:

When are the V.2 T-Buckets coming back and where are the 30mm Sapphire dishes? I want one so bad but not without the sapphire dish! All I need is the main assembly, a 14mm post, the flat coil and the dish. Any word from them on this?

Instead of continuing to ask here, why not use the same time and effort to call or write CH, they are usually very easy to talk to, and respond fairly quickly to emails. Then the next time you ask any questions here, you could INFORM us of what you find out?

Hope this helps…..

 

[Trackrat]

I have a B0 on the way. I'm contemplating the TKO or FT pro in the future. I would like users to suggest if the will be worth it to my intended use.

I intend to vape low temp, in small dry glass pieces, with temp stepping. Would the B0 be my best device for this function anyway? Or would the aforementioned vapes offer anything new/superior with this usage in mind?

I have a og FP weedeater with shovelhead bowl. I love the big satisfying hits, but I hate how short the high is. I intend to use the B0 like a sort of desktop TM2.

I noticed that also with my CH toys. The high doesn't last very long compared to my other toys. I go thru double the weed. Anyone have a theory on why the high don't last as long ?

 

[RedZep]

I noticed that also with my CH toys. The high doesn't last very long compared to my other toys. I go thru double the weed. Anyone have a theory on why the high don't last as long ?

I tried asking in the CH thread and everyone agreed with the perception. No one had any good idea why. Maybe terps get blasted by the radiant heat from the large surface area. Maybe it's the conduction effect from the shovelhead. I'm hoping running an injector at low temps provided a different experience.

 

[focalforlife]

Hey Rusty,

Yeah I already do that. Do you think I should be dunking the tip of the qtips in ISO first? I tried it with the Vrod and the SIC dish and it really splattered everywhere which is why I stopped using the ISO.. at least until it cools to 150F or so.

Just how sensitive is it? If I hold it under a facet (either hot or cold) and then switch it quickly to the opposite... would that shatter it? Don't get me wrong though I don't do that. Even when cleaning my glass under the tap I switch very slowly. Man when I get around to iso bathing it, I'm going to be so careful man. If It so much as slipped out of my fingers that's $150 I don't have right now. I have 2 sic dishes but hell, I don't want to go back to them after the sapphire. Oh and yeah... there really is a flavor difference with the Sapphire, did you notice it? I should prob get some live sauce to really test the flavor instead of this shatter.

On a side note and to everyone else:

When are the V.2 T-Buckets coming back and where are the 30mm Sapphire dishes? I want one so bad but not without the sapphire dish! All I need is the main assembly, a 14mm post, the flat coil and the dish. Any word from them on this?

I cracked mine by taking a dish that was around 150 and dropped in simply green that was room temp. small crack but done. Never again.

 

[Socks And Sandals]

When I’m vaping with my DCup & 30mm Sapphire dish, I QTip DRY, immediately after every hit to cleanup any leftover oils. I never use any liquids on a hot dish, and it’s unnecessary if you mop after a hit, while the residual oil is still warm/hot.

I NEVER use ISO on anything I’m going to end up tastings, due to the BITTERANTS they add to ISO.
I use 190 proof ETHANOL I buy by the gallon, it’s SAFE to drink, leaves no bitter taste behind. For smaller quantities, you can try to get 190 proof EVERCLEAR at a liquor store. (same stuff)

First time hearing this ever.. and I'm pretty good at being very analytical when it comes to things like this but I have never noticed it. I've taken ELB Evo baskets and used them within 10 minutes of being in iso. Of course I rinse them well, submerge them under water and dried them with a hair dryer but I've never noticed the taste. Not arguing with you and am willing to try the Ethanol instead if it's cheaper than ISO that is. Leave a link if you got one please.. for the 190 proof Ethanol.

ISO is NOT part of my routine, the next day I wipe off the surface of the dish, and QTip the airpath with Ethanol, just so the surfaces are clean for the next time I use it. When the resin vapor gets under the cup, and gets BAKED ON, that’s when I do a SIMPLE GREEN CRYSTAL soak. It takes many sessions before I need to soak. The dry Qtipping of the Sapphire dish between hits, keeps the inner surface clean, that you dab off of.

I would like to avoid that if all possible, I've already been through that shit with my Vrod and the Sic dish sticking to the bottom as well as the nutt not budging. I ended up fucking up and slightly bending the chimney trying to use pliers on that nut. Now the average person looking at this Vrod prob can't see it but I can. I posted some pics a year or two ago when I accidently draped one of my rig rags over the hot Vrod.. well that same Vrod also had the nut and sick dish stick several times.. Don't want to go through that ever again.. The fact that you said that happens with the T cup almost makes me want to stay away and go with a mini nail instead. But in the end, I'll continue to dry swab it out after each use..

I’ve read an extreme temperature change of 300F, can cause the SHOCK that can crack Sapphire, but I’m not planning on testing it. If you get bad blowback of water from your rig, and water ends up hitting that hot sapphire dish it will CRACK. ( my sic dish is backup)

No blowback from any of my rigs, not something I need to worry about.

I’ve given you my opinion on this a few times now. If the resin is baked on ISO doesn’t work, but you will find this out on your own.

You've given me your opinion twice but I want to be sure I'm understanding you right here. You're saying baked on Resin (meaning that I let it get baked on by not swabbing it after every hit) doesn't come clean with ISO right? If I keep doing what i'm doing and swabbing it out after every hit I shouldn't have to worry about it at all then, yes? I keep hearing about the term Reclaim.. is that what you call resin resin now? I thought it was term used for the extra oil in a reclaim catcher at the bottom of a drop down with a banger. Perhaps I haven't kept up with things over the years as much as I thought I guess.

In the end I won't take ANY CHANCES of Thermal shock. I'm willing to try your Ethanol (if it's cheaper than ISO and you provide the link) and Simple Green method however I don't even want to give it a chance to get stuck on there. I'd rather prevent something before it happens rather than to just deal with the consequences then if that makes sense.

Thanks for the reply Rusty. I'm always open to trying new things and hearing new theories and ideas.

 

[RustyOldNail]

Of course I rinse them well, submerge them under water and dried them with a hair dryer but I've never noticed the taste.

The idea of using a strong solvent like 190 Ethanol, is you don’t need to wash in water, or dry as it evaporates almost instantly, but this depends on what OBJECTS we are talking about. For example, if you wipe out a DV tip even with 99% ISO, then vape later, most will taste the bitter. Using food safe, drinkable (though nasty) 190 Ethanol, you would not taste it. If you are washing and drying things, then ISO is okay as a solvent, I use 99% ISO for things I’m not going to be tasting, or in my mouth, as it is less expensive then Ethanol.

willing to try the Ethanol instead if it's cheaper than ISO that is.

It is more EXPENSIVE, and hard to get in some states. The “hazmat” shipping also drives the final price up.

You're saying baked on Resin (meaning that I let it get baked on by not swabbing it after every hit) doesn't come clean with ISO right?

I own a DCup, vapor and occasional spill over gets UNDERNEATH the cup, now trapped inside the titanium dish holder. This is where it gets BAKED on, sides and bottom. The inside of my Sapphire dish is usually fine, from dry Qtipping after every hit. If someone didn’t swab or forgot, I would imagine the inside cup surface would get a baked on coating as well, but I don’t let it get to that state.

1 Gallon = $45.00, shipping was additional $26.00 FedEx. I use this for alcohol extractions, and cleaning. The main site page has a map of what states they can legally ship to. But for a smaller size bottle, check your local liquor store, for 190 Everclear, same stuff, though many only carry 150 proof.

1 Gallon Food Grade 190 Proof Ethanol ($44.97)

For Consumable Tinctures and Herbal Extractions Order Our Food Grade 190 Proof Ethanol. To Keep Your Product Safe For Consumption Our Undenatured Ethanol Alcohol Has Zero Additives.

42oextractor.com

 

[Dabberhashery]

I just received a new 14mm Female Post which has part number 3158 but it is slightly larger diameter and does not fit my shovel head bowl.

Does anyone know what is up with that? It is just a slither larger than my existing posts but there is no way it is going to fit... Have they changed the fitting of the shovel head bowl at some point?

I just received a new 14mm Female Post which has part number 3158 but it is slightly larger diameter and does not fit my shovel head bowl.

Does anyone know what is up with that? It is just a slither larger than my existing posts but there is no way it is going to fit... Have they changed the fitting of the shovel head bowl at some point?

Going to have to chalk this one up to user error

In the cold light of Monday with me in a clearer-headed, less medicated state... it finally dawned on me to turn the part around and hey presto the male post fits into the female post... Gotta laugh, hey!

Edit: argh no the CH website clearly shows the right way to have it:

Sorry for 3 posts in row! Back to square one

 

[Haze Mister]

I noticed that also with my CH toys. The high doesn't last very long compared to my other toys. I go thru double the weed. Anyone have a theory on why the high don't last as long ?

That is why the other model was called Weedeater
May be related to strain, vaping temperatures and how quickly you finish the bowl...

I'm willing to try your Ethanol (if it's cheaper than ISO

It is more expensive and will not work if ISO didn't. On quartz I just fire off any baked residue but with the sapphire dish I would try scrubbing with stainless steel wool if no liquids work. This will not scratch.

 

[RustyOldNail]

with the sapphire dish I would try scrubbing with stainless steel wool if no liquids work. This will not scratch.

You can soak a Sapphire Dish in Simple Green Crystal and the baked on resin lifts right off, no scrubbing needed. I’ve posted this many times, as a search will reveal. The advantage to using 190 Ethanol over any strength ISO, is the lack of added bitterants that ISO contains so idiots don’t drink it. A bottle of 190 EverClear will last a long time, I use it for surfaces that I’ll be vaping off of, and anything my mouth and tongue makes contact with…..

T-Bucket Banger System by NewVape

Edmunson Optics supply certificated Sapphire/Ruby pearls in the UK.. I'm hoping they sell 8mm ones for my next order! With regards to the seam issue my first Sapphire dish had a very sharp crease and had to be cleaned via the water / iso trick but later resorted to a pin/toothpick to remove it...

fuckcombustion.com

 

[Haze Mister]

For sure liquids should be the first thing to try.

Same here. I dislike ISO intensely and go the extra mile to obtain ethanol for cleaning stuff that will be on the vapor path or my mouth. Allegedly ISO may also be carcinogenic if ingested. I 'm not sure why we're talking about this here though.

 

[Socks And Sandals]

The idea of using a strong solvent like 190 Ethanol, is you don’t need to wash in water, or dry as it evaporates almost instantly, but this depends on what OBJECTS we are talking about. For example, if you wipe out a DV tip even with 99% ISO, then vape later, most will taste the bitter. Using food safe, drinkable (though nasty) 190 Ethanol, you would not taste it. If you are washing and drying things, then ISO is okay as a solvent, I use 99% ISO for things I’m not going to be tasting, or in my mouth, as it is less expensive then Ethanol.



It is more EXPENSIVE, and hard to get in some states. The “hazmat” shipping also drives the final price up.



I own a DCup, vapor and occasional spill over gets UNDERNEATH the cup, now trapped inside the titanium dish holder. This is where it gets BAKED on, sides and bottom. The inside of my Sapphire dish is usually fine, from dry Qtipping after every hit. If someone didn’t swab or forgot, I would imagine the inside cup surface would get a baked on coating as well, but I don’t let it get to that state.

1 Gallon = $45.00, shipping was additional $26.00 FedEx. I use this for alcohol extractions, and cleaning. The main site page has a map of what states they can legally ship to. But for a smaller size bottle, check your local liquor store, for 190 Everclear, same stuff, though many only carry 150 proof.

1 Gallon Food Grade 190 Proof Ethanol ($44.97)

For Consumable Tinctures and Herbal Extractions Order Our Food Grade 190 Proof Ethanol. To Keep Your Product Safe For Consumption Our Undenatured Ethanol Alcohol Has Zero Additives.

42oextractor.com

Thanks so much for that link, I found other brands of 190 Ethanol for cheaper at Amazon... or would you personally suggest this "420 Extractor" brand?

They will ship to cali but you're right about the shipping costs! 32 or 34 bucks to ship here

So the main points of using Ethanol over 99% Iso is that it doesn't affect the taste (like 99% Iso does) and there is no drying needed. Knowing this I'd like to ask another question which really is the most important to me. Are there any performance issue differences between the 190 proof Ethanol and 99% Iso? Meaning, does one actually happen to clean better or faster than the other? As soon as I run through the rest of my remaining ISO I'll give it a shot

I bought a gallon of 99% Iso at amazon about 2 years ago. The order was separated into quarts as you can see here:
Gallon of 99% ISO

Anyhow over the course of 2 years, I still have one quart bottle left and that's in addition to the 3 tupperware containers that I have my recycled brown ISO in. Once I go through this last bottle, I'll definitely give the Ethanol a try. I have to admit, I'm a little confused at the differences between the two despite the added Bitterants that you mentioned.

I also forgot to ask you how many times you can reuse/recycle the Ethanol? Roughly the same amount of time as I do my ISO? I'm asking because i do let my iso get pretty dark brown. I'm always running it through cheese cloth every other time I soak something. When it gets really dark brown I throw it out. I've still never been sure how long it takes before it loses it's effectiveness... I wonder the same thing when I recycle my iso/salt and Orange Chronic cleaners. I just usually throw them out when they change color and composition. I recycle my orange chronic at least a dozen times and my iso probably even more.

And thank you for the Simple Green Info! I read your linked post and I just ordered this today!
Simple Green Crystal

 

[RustyOldNail]

Thanks so much for that link, I found other brands of 190 Ethanol for cheaper at Amazon... or would you personally suggest this "420 Extractor" brand?

The ONLY “Ethanol” that Amazon can legally sell is DENATURED! Same as what the ADD to denatured ISO.

“DENATURED is ethanol that has additives to make it poisonous, bad-tasting, foul-smelling, or nauseating to discourage its recreational consumption. It is sometimes dyed so that it can be identified visually. Pyridine and methanol,[1] each and together, make denatured alcohol poisonous; and denatonium makes it bitter.”

Denatured alcohol - Wikipedia

en.m.wikipedia.org

Are there any performance issue differences between the 190 proof Ethanol and 99% Iso?

Works the same or better in my experience.

I'll definitely give the Ethanol a try. I have to admit, I'm a little confused at the differences between the two despite the added Bitterants that you mentioned.

That’s about it, it’s food safe, and while hard, it can be consumed by drinking.

I also forgot to ask you how many times you can reuse/recycle the Ethanol?

I don’t use it in large volumes as a cleaner. I bought a gallon to use for alcohol extractions, where the “Source Turbo”, can reclaim about 190% of the Ethanol like a still. Since I have a decent amount, I use it in a small pump bottle, I’ll add a recent link below on that. I use it to clean small items with QTips and tiny squares of paper towels I cut. The larger things like my GLASS rigs, which get filled with the disposable Simple Green Crystal, for an hour soak, then hot water rinsed, then filled with fresh DISTILLED water.

Personally, I wouldn’t store any potent ISO or ETHANOL in “Tupperware”, unless I knew what type of plastic it is, as not all plastics are SOLVENT SAFE.

PUMP BOTTLE INFO LINK:

EVOLV Cricket

supposed to arrive Thursday Has it arrived ? :)

fuckcombustion.com

 

[Haze Mister]

“DENATURED is ethanol that has additives to make it poisonous, bad-tasting, foul-smelling, or nauseating to discourage its recreational consumption. It is sometimes dyed so that it can be identified visually. Pyridine and methanol,[1] each and together, make denatured alcohol poisonous; and denatonium makes it bitter.”

Damn leeches. May they go back to where they came from - oblivion!

 

[Socks And Sandals]

The ONLY “Ethanol” that Amazon can legally sell is DENATURED! Same as what the ADD to denatured ISO.

Are you sure about this? Is this a federal law or Amazon's policies only? Are you telling me that the link I posted is denatured as well? And.. both ISO and Ethanal can be denatured? The way I understand this is ISO and Ethanal are the same thing.. other than the fact that one is food safe and can actually get you drunk while the other has additives that make it not safe for human consumption but rather for cleaning. Am I understanding this correctly? I'm currently researching the laws now and since I know that Ethanol can be shipped to California by 420 Extractor I'm pretty sure this is just an amazon policy because I know now that Ethanol can be shipped here so why does Amazon not sell Non Denatured??? Sorry for the confusion but this really threw me a curve ball. Please do let me know and confirm that I'm understanding this correctly. Both ISO and Ethanol can be denatured then? I'm really fucking confused now.. sorry but I am. I'll get back tomorrow when I find out more but please feel free to let me know that I'm understanding this correctly.

Thanks for the wiki link.

I don’t use it in large volumes as a cleaner. I bought a gallon to use for alcohol extractions, where the “Source Turbo”, can reclaim about 190% of the Ethanol like a still. Since I have a decent amount, I use it in a small pump bottle, I’ll add a recent link below on that. I use it to clean small items with QTips and tiny squares of paper towels I cut. The larger things like my GLASS rigs, which get filled with the disposable Simple Green Crystal, for an hour soak, then hot water rinsed, then filled with fresh DISTILLED water.y

I would imagine it would be able to be recycled at least 20 times or more.. to the point of turning dark brown? Like I do with my ISO?

I go through more Orange Chronic cleaner than ISO because I can't recycle it as many times as the ISO.. maybe it's because the ISO is basically used for soaking everything from Titanium, glass, vape parts, plastics (but only for 5 to 10 minutes), and my old e cig tanks before I quit cigs and vaping too. In other words, what I'm saying is.. whatever I get.. ISO or Ethanol is going to last me a very, very, very, long time. I don't use ISO for cleaning my rigs.. just orange chronic. I tried using ISO and Salt and it just doesn't do it like the Orange Chronic does and effortlessly too.

As far as your Alcohol extractions, I'm completely clueless as to what you're talking about. I don't know what "source turbo" is and what you mean when you say you can reclaim 190% of the Ethanol.. When I went to the site you mentioned.. 420 extractors.. I also read the description of what it's used for.. stuff like tinctures, etc. Are they talking about people making concentrates with this stuff? I really don't understand.

You mentioned that you use Simple Green Crystal to clean your bongs instead of ISO, and it works just as well? Simple Green Crystal is supposed to be non toxic or so I read. I just bought that Gallon of Simple Green Crystal you shared and honestly, It was just mainly for the sapphire dish. I'll definitely give it a test drive on one of my rigs and probably using it for other things. If I just bought that whole gallon just for that sapphire dish.. ugh the thought LOL. What else can I use it for as far as cleaning my vape equipment? I actually looked for a smaller bottle and couldn't find one that was Crystal Simple Green so I did buy that gallon, it should be arriving Friday.

I do use Distilled water to fill my rigs.. but I refuse to use it to rinse as I don't think that's a risk for hard water deposits since I basically clean my glass and have it dried with a hair dryer (cool trick I just discovered and works great on drop downs and down stems that will evaporate the tiny little wetness still inside those joints making them appear brand new) in under 5 minutes.. I read that some people here actually use distilled water to rinse but it seems like a waste to me unless of course you are rinsing it into a bucket that gets put back into the bottle. I dunno, it just sounds like too much headache for me. I think I'm good with how fast I clean my glass in under 5 minutes every other day and rinsing in tap water. I used to keep fish and know that the tap water here in Los Angeles is just over 7 but not to alkaline.. It was perfect for keeping Cichlids and other fresh water fish tho!

On a side note, I do have a really bad hard water deposit on my broken Purr Swiss Honeycomb that I need to know I can remove before sending it into repair. You seem pretty knowledgeable, I'll PM you if that's ok with you. I'll explain it over PM.

Personally, I wouldn’t store any potent ISO or ETHANOL in “Tupperware”, unless I knew what type of plastic it is, as not all plastics are SOLVENT SAFE.

I thought about this before but I didn't really think it was possible to seep through plastic since it's shipped in plastic. I am just talking about when I'm soaking things like my Titanium, metal, WPA's and other glass adapters. It's really hard to tell if the ISO is evaporating since it's 99%. I just know I keep using it till it turns so dark brown, I can't stand looking at it anymore lol. Do I have reason to worry that it would somehow eat through the tupperware and plastic containers from Salsa manufacturers like the Acid blood from the Face Hugger in the Alien film? LOL But seriously.. I have to worry about this?

And back to your D Cup... When your sapphire gets stuck in the bucket.. you take it apart (similar to the T bucket) and soak the TI cup right obviously to get the sapphire insert out? So simple green works great on your bongs.. I got that but is it really safe to soak Titanium?

Whew.. I know that was a whole lot of questions.. Again, alot of these things you mentioned are completely new for me like when you mentioned "Alcohol Extractions".. I have no clue what you mean. Sorry for the confusion, but hey I'm learning something new.. it comes with the Territory.

Let me know, in the meantime I just want to be sure that Amazon won't sell pure ISO and Ethanol that isn't denatured. I do believe you, but I'm always thinking some seller is getting away with it. Let me know thanks man.

 

[Chicken No Name]

Is this the CH thread or the 'how to use iso or simple green '?
It's interesting and all but should it be here or somewhere else.

 

[Haze Mister]

The way I understand this is ISO and Ethanal are the same thing.. other than the fact that one is food safe and can actually get you drunk while the other has additives that make it not safe for human consumption but rather for cleaning. Am I understanding this correctly?

Nope. They are different but related substances- ethyl alcohol (same as drinking alcohol) and isopropyl alcohol (synthetic shite). If you drink the latter even without additives it will be bad.
Sorry for further derailment, my pedant side took over ! Delete /move as required.