Cannabis Hardware (formerly NewVape) FlowerPot Twax Vaporizer

[tb42091]

If you have to leave it cracked a little you would probably have to spread the enail coil a bit extra too so it still presses on the top and bottom pieces like it is supposed to. And if he has to run it over 700 that kinda defeats the purpose to me. It should be able to run at lower Temps if it is an improvement as the air should heat up more efficiently going through the beads.

That said I think it is cool that CH is still open to trying different things

 

[Bad Dog]

I'm not willing to stretch my coil for the incorrect size balls. Upped my temp to 600 and hit without the cap and it wasn't very good, tried hitting soft, hard , definitely wasn't better than the carb cap. I might try when I get my rubies but but with what I got it's no good.

 

[snackmaster]

Some balls could just settle in diffuser holes and restrict airflow, right? Wonder how much performance change is just that.

 

[Ramahs]

Some balls could just settle in diffuser holes and restrict airflow, right? Wonder how much performance change is just that.

That's been exactly my worry since the start of this idea.

 

[Vaporware]

I haven’t tried the mod, but I wouldn’t expect it to do much more than the carb cap (maybe even less) and it has some drawbacks, so if this is all you want the balls for I wouldn’t bother buying them at this point.

Obviously someone had to try it though, because…balls?

 

[710yota]

I don't really see the point of bothering with the mod if he's running at 710, I really wonder how many people hit it at those temps and want more unless perhaps it's a controller issue? I used to run mine up at 700 and it was already hitting like a sack of bricks uncapped, if you wanted more you could just cap it.

I'm finding more and more that the carb cap is a great "mod" for the VROD, just taking the handle off and leaving it on the head all the time along with a couple of pearls has been giving me about the same kind of hits at 666 that i was getting at 700. Like said above if I am going to get all mad science with it, I want to go to a lower temp.

Now all of that shit being said I still love seeing people experiment and approach a existing product from a somewhat different angle plus in Troy's case you have to have something to make videos about. Seeing the return of the flowerpot to a popular channel is most excellent as well, I just want to see everyone get abong

 

[WelshBrok]

I'm finding more and more that the carb cap is a great "mod" for the VROD, just taking the handle off and leaving it on the head all the time along with a couple of pearls has been giving me about the same kind of hits at 666 that i was getting at 700. Like said above if I am going to get all mad science with it, I want to go to a lower temp.

Yep this is exactly how I use it for flower as well (although I’m at 585) and also why I’d quite like that screw on carb cap idea that just lives attached to the head with pearls in so I don’t have to remember to tell everyone to keep it upright.
My cap never comes off the dish, ever (unless someone’s tilted and dropped it )

 

[delta hotel]

I tried leaving the VROD cap on unscrewed from the handle, and it definitely works wonders, but I wasn't wild about the fear of tipping it off. I wish I had the old school kind that fits OVER instead of ON. I was also one to suggest an affixed carb cap for this purpose, but some said it's all technique. I have the draw down, it was more convenience. Burning yourself or "do it only like me" aren't very convenient.

 

[Bad Dog]

So far as 4mm balls I'm definitely not getting any sort of improvement, nor am I happy without the carb cap if that's supposed to be part of the mod? I'll reserve final judgment until I actually have what I need to do the mod properly but I don't see it being terribly different, if the idea is to hit it harder so it hits harder it doesn't at lower and medium temp with the 4mm balls, maybe the 3mm makes the difference guess I'll find out.

 

[WelshBrok]

Isn’t it a bit risky putting different materials inside the vrod, if they have different coefficients of thermal expansion?

Maybe it isn’t an issue at the temps we are using and the Pearl shape but I’d be worried about crushing the pearls together when the heat ramps up.

 

[snackmaster]

I wish I had the old school kind that fits OVER instead of ON.

Saaame

@710yota, @WelshBrok, @delta hotel I'm with you on the carb cap and am now gravitating more toward your idea @delta hotel...

@Zangano Cruel avert your eyes now!

Either something that A) replaces the dish


..or B) goes over the dish


I suppose intake holes could go thru the top in both of these, which would decrease the height of both parts and maybe simplify production, but the side holes give A a longer heated airpath and make B more ball-mod-friendly. Those things might be worthwhile benefits? Top holes would also seal off the dish area in B.

Also not sure if there's any real advantage to making the side intake holes offset like they are. There's an appeal to imagining them crating a vortex, but a single hole all the way thru would be easier to do. And I don't see either option creating much of a vortex in the dish area so wouldn't be great for @710yota's technique. The double-walled nature of B (I think) limits, or at least complicates, options for intake holes.

edit: this is what I mean by complicating things - need a couple drilling operations and the one for the interior wall is a little awkward

 

[SquirrelMaster]

I like experimenting with glass beads in vapes. In my SSV it was worth it, in my Elev8r it was worth it, I put them in stems for cooling too. They have their advantages at times, which come with disadvantages as well, usually cleaning (when used for cooling) but overall I'm very impressed with how they can change a device plus, I'm a tinkerer.

The idea of modifying the VROD doesn't make any sense in my mind. Zero, nadda, zilch. After its warmed up the cap is all that's needed for fast, even extraction. I run mine at 300C/572F and it absolutely rips through bowls. Maybe I'm running a little higher as I haven't calibrated my coil and I run my Elev8r slightly higher on the same Auber RDK-300b. Add all the heat storage you want, it's not going to penetrate your flower more efficiently so surface area is more important at that point (if you can eliminate tunnelling). Unless the glass bowl for the Terp torch has an I.D. wider than the Shovelhead, which it doesn't appear to, I don't see how it could hit harder than a VROD (unless of course you were somehow involved in the Terp Torch, that could definitely add some bias). Glass bowls have excellent flavour imo but they don't hit as hard compared to the titanium construction of the Shovelhead.

I'd buy a carb cap that stays attached if CH made one again. I'd have to order some other stuff though as the $40 USD shipping cost to Canada for a carp cap wouldn't make it worth it to me. I've thought of getting a Weedeater and maybe setting it up with the VROD in tandem but that's so unnecessary imo. It's more along the lines of me wanting to support CH because I think they make amazing products.

On a side note I'd be very curious to take some of these ruby balls that are becoming all the rage and inspect them under a microscope. Lead filled rubies are very common so I hope the companies selling these to be used in vapes are aware of that and have done their due dilligence. I contacted quite a few re-sellers of synthetic corundum and not a single one could verify if theirs contained lead. The more expensive re-sellers can but their cost is substantially higher.

@WelshBrok If the balls are packed tightly in a housing of a different material and the device is left on for long periods of time then it could be concern. I "think" you would be ok when everything is heating up as titanium has a higher thermal coefficient of expansion but could the cool down present issues? I'm far from an expert so if I'm on the wrong track someone please correct me. Troy stopped using his SSV43 afaik because the balls came loose and I want to say even burned something. My SSV top screen is secured in such a way I don't see that happening but I've noticed when I leave either my SSV or Elev8r on for long periods of time the balls have moved slightly. My Elev8r has popped the bottom screen out on me once after it was left on for hours and thankfully it was on top of the bowl at the time so the couple beads that fell landed in my flower.

The VROD was the device that made me step back and really re-examine devices that are modded with balls. I'm not going to castrate my SSV or Elev8r because at that point they're not worthy of being in my arsenal imo AND I'm willing to accept the risk but there is a danger that comes from using them that way. The only other device I've seriously considered modding with balls is my Alpha as the heat retention is extremely poor with back to back hits.

 

[Zangano Cruel]

If you watch the videos, you’ll see the 2018 OG VROD hollow carb cap, it’s one straight hole.
It works pretty similar in what you’re describing.

I moved the Double Legacy NV PID where I have the SH and the WeedEater connected, so I can set the 4 head stand.
You can see I set the first bowl with an inside stem, extra adapter, short dropdown, extra Drop Möbius.
WeedEater at 555F to show how the PID don’t even move when all is aligned and done.

Next video shows a new bowl without all the extras, but just the Möbius Drop dropdown, and a fresh Tangilope bowl.
WeedEater still at 555F

Next video is cashing that Tangilope bowl with a WeedEater at 555F + ShowerHead at 555F

And last video is where the WeedEater starts darkening ABV.
Things start to get dense and punch.
Another fresh Tangilope bowl at 666F WeedEater.

I’m saving ABVs, since I roast my ABV to very dark chocolate.
555F ABVs from videos…
Far right was the WE + SH both at 555F

And 666F ABVs for later…

Read the thread
Learn to vape
Stay vaped!
Mantente de la mente!!!

 

[delta hotel]

Saaame

@710yota, @WelshBrok, @delta hotel I'm with you on the carb cap and am now gravitating more toward your idea @delta hotel...

@Zangano Cruel avert your eyes now!

Either something that A) replaces the dish
View attachment 9357

..or B) goes over the dish
View attachment 9358

I suppose intake holes could go thru the top in both of these, which would decrease the height of both parts and maybe simplify production, but the side holes give A a longer heated airpath and make B more ball-mod-friendly. Those things might be worthwhile benefits? Top holes would also seal off the dish area in B.

Also not sure if there's any real advantage to making the side intake holes offset like they are. There's an appeal to imagining them crating a vortex, but a single hole all the way thru would be easier to do. And I don't see either option creating much of a vortex in the dish area so wouldn't be great for @710yota's technique. The double-walled nature of B (I think) limits, or at least complicates, options for intake holes.

edit: this is what I mean by complicating things - need a couple drilling operations and the one for the interior wall is a little awkward
View attachment 9361

Something similar to this in use is what I pitched awhile back, and tried to do recently in a live stream and I think they confused it with your original idea. If I remember, we were both in the stream.

It's more about securing the cap for those that like to leave it on but don't have the original cap. The new cap doesn't have much holding it in place, and while I haven't burned myself with it yet, I can see it happening easily. I prefer to heat the cap with the VROD, but don't often because of that, and just throw it on in the end. This makes another area more convenient, in that if you do this, there are less hot parts to remove from atop the shovelhead; just the VROD head instead of the head and cap. Though this brings us back to the initial convenience of being able to just leave the cap on the VROD.

Another easy solution would be to produce the old caps again, but those aren't universal, so it may not benefit them. I'd sure like to have one though.

 

[snackmaster]

The new cap doesn't have much holding it in place, and while I haven't burned myself with it yet, I can see it happening easily. I prefer to heat the cap with the VROD, but don't often because of that, and just throw it on in the end.

I feel this way about the weedeater for sure, but the VROD isn't bad to me - it feels pretty secure with the cap going into the dish and the nut going into the cap. I can rotate the head about 70° before the handle-less cap falls off. It's closer to 40° with the handle on, but that's still way more than I ever rotate it during use. If you haven't already I'd play around with it unplugged and see if it seems any less risky.

 

[Vaporware]

@Zangano Cruel If you were only talking about the very first VRod carb caps I think those may have all had straight holes. I’d have to look back through the thread to be sure on that point.

Mine is a dedicated VRod cap (from about the time they added flats to the sides) that goes down over the sides of the dish though, and it has an angled hole. I know you could also get 2 (and I think even 4) holes at the time if you wanted.

 

[snackmaster]

I know you could also get 2 (and I think even 4) holes at the time if you wanted.

Or 3!

 

[Chicken No Name]

Another easy solution would be to produce the old caps again, but those aren't universal, so it may not benefit them. I'd sure like to have one though.

I agree and have just ordered one from vapefiend. I think it has 2 holes.
Due to the continuing joys of brexit I have had to have my cap sent to a friend in UK who will then post to me. So I haven't tried it yet.....

 

[Zangano Cruel]

Top one, 2018 VROD straight hole.
I believe it was too thin of a cap top, to even attempt a try to make an angled hole, I believe you need extra length to physically create an angled funnel airflow, that will projectile with enough power to reach the bottom of the dish and create a powerful enough airflow current to “spin anything”, if that’s the purpose of angled holes, spinning oil.

And talking about “angled holes”, next one is the heaviest of them all. It’s the one I was talking about.

And many ideas totally looks exactly like this cap from late 2018.
Nothing new, just outdated or lack of reading the old thread.

Extra Ti, very heavy, holds heat, etc etc etc.
Take a look at the one on the right , late 2018 or early 2019 2nd version wrenched VROD 22.81mm or 22.82mm dabbing dishes, or something like this, and some don’t fit each other and viceversa.
Details that seem to don’t matter too much, but they will during use, while and only switching heads(FP) during a session.
For just one head(FP), most likely you’ll need only one cap.

Third one I believe is the early 2019 D-Cup OG version cap.

I believe it was a mix of these 3 caps that created the new “universal hybrid cap”, that mostly all new users or late 2019 adopters have.

Read the thread. Learn to vape . Stay vaped!
Mantente de la mente!!!


DISCLAIMER.
I don’t copy/paste from websites.
All these photos and vapes and stuff are my own.
Bought with my own money.
NO SPONSORED.
I don’t get paid/sponsored nor I get any free vapes by retail/online vape stores.
I’m only “biased” to use and have the best possible vaporizers.

 

[Vaporware]

@Zangano Cruel Thanks for the pics! I’d forgotten the top of the cap was so thin on the very early version.

The first version with rounded sides was nice (as long as it didn’t stick when you took it apart), but since I only have one I think the late 2018 model.

The issue with the dish fit was that they based the first models on D-Nail dishes, then when their own mold was finished their dishes came out very slightly larger and they had to make a little more room for the dishes.

 

[SquirrelMaster]

So the issue was that the cap would stick, if I am understanding you guys correctly? The bottom right cap in your pics @Zangano Cruel looks like it would be the best but it didn't always mate correctly with the VROD or between the VROD and other device?

 

[invertedisdead]

The cap changed because people were obsessed with zinging pearls.

 

[SquirrelMaster]

The cap changed because people were obsessed with zinging pearls.

Didn't those old designs make them zing anyways? The ones with the cross drilled holes I mean. If I understand correctly the new design works on all i.e. Flowerpot Vrod, Weedeater as well as the DCup and T-Bucket/Tsunami heads and Banger set ups, where as the other heavier over-the-top design was specific to the VROD?

 

[Zangano Cruel]

So the issue was that the cap would stick, if I am understanding you guys correctly? The bottom right cap in your pics @Zangano Cruel looks like it would be the best but it didn't always mate correctly with the VROD or between the VROD and other device?

I don’t think so.
I believe the were no issues with no caps.
D-Nail was the OG SiC provider, and most likely wasn’t cost profitable for NV CH, and they depended on their stock. No good for biz.
They sourced their own SiC import/provider and tolerances were not good enough. New SiC dish was wider diameter , by the 0.mm. So they changed the cap, I believe this cap I have sit on top of the SiC dish, and doesn’t touch the Ti rim of the VROD bottom half. They also changed to the wrenched VROD version, because some VRODs were having locking issues.
And they “listened” to the zinging/slinging perls fam/fanboys, as @invertedisdead mentioned

After a few dabs in the VROD with ruby pearls, I immediately stop using them, because they mostly sling oil above the dish lip, and it’ll cook/cake in between the SiC dish and bottom half of the VROD. Smoking all the time, creating that nasty smell and aftertaste of cooked reclaim.
Neither I liked them at my quartz setup nor at any other axial quartz enail, nor the D-Cup.
In the D-Cup pearls are even worst slinging oil above the SiC dish, imho & e pearls are even more useless with a D-Cup, but YMMV.
Pearls will remain cooking oil and leftover reclaim if you don’t delicately and specifically clean them one by one, and even then, they wouldn’t dry properly, because they’ll dry at a point where some evaporated reclaim will stay at the bottom of the pearl contacting a surface. Unless you hair dry your pearls. YMMV, but unless you take the pearls out of the dish after a nice dab, I’m sure something leftover remains.

Read the thread. Learn to vape . Stay vaped! Mantente de la mente!!!

 

[RustyOldNail]

I don’t think so.
I believe the were no issues with no caps.
D-Nail was the OG SiC provider, and most likely wasn’t cost profitable for NV CH, and they depended on their stock. No good for biz.
They sourced their own SiC import/provider and tolerances were not good enough. New SiC dish was wider diameter , by the 0.mm. So they changed the cap, I believe this cap I have sit on top of the SiC dish, and doesn’t touch the Ti rim of the VROD bottom half. They also changed to the wrenched VROD version, because some VRODs were having locking issues.
And they “listened” to the zinging/slinging perls fam/fanboys, as @invertedisdead mentioned

After a few dabs in the VROD with ruby pearls, I immediately stop using them, because they mostly sling oil above the dish lip, and it’ll cook/cake in between the SiC dish and bottom half of the VROD. Smoking all the time, creating that nasty smell and aftertaste of cooked reclaim in a
Neither I liked them at my quartz setup nor at any other axial quartz enail, nor the D-Cup.
In the D-Cup pearls are even worst slinging oil above the SiC dish, imho & e pearls are even more useless with a D-Cup, but YMMV.
Pearls will remain cooking oil and leftover reclaim if you don’t delicately and specifically clean them one by one, and even then, they wouldn’t dry properly, because they’ll dry at a point where some evaporated reclaim will stay at the bottom of the pearl contacting a surface. Unless you hair dry your pearls. YMMV, but unless you take the pearls out of the dish after a nice dab, I’m sure something leftover remains.

Read the thread. Learn to vape . Stay vaped! Mantente de la mente!!!

As a DCup V2 user, I agree. Tried a few balls in the sapphire dish, made dry qtip cleaning between dabs horrible, and any oil pushed over and into the bottom titanium dish holder is a huge pain to clean. Don’t seem to need anymore surface area on a 30mm dish, balls no more...

Same thing I recently learned when I switched from the OG stock 2-hole Ti cap, to the last GLASS cap I could find that mostly spins 360 degrees. This glass cap has a small “truck”, like you see on many banger caps. It worked well, but I found I had to clean the cup holder much more often, as much more oil was overflowing the dish. The OG cap does not do this near the same, unless you overload a dab, maybe temps too low, and you over pull, but much less then the glass cap. I’ll try to find a photo or link to the now shelved glass cap.

LINK TO GLASS CAP THAT FIT DCUP:

Chad Bro Carb Cap | Denver's Best Online Smoke Shop | 710 Pipes

Chad Bro Terp Trunk will fit just about anything! Chad Bro really nailed his airflow design, not to mention the durability and overall thickness.

www.710pipes.com