Cannabis Hardware (formerly NewVape) FlowerPot Twax Vaporizer

graydeh1

graydeh1

REP for TRVP ATTY, Shellshock/Tectonic and more.
Company Rep
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I was just here to post the good news as well, I'm going to grab a few of these, very glad they could make a solution for us very early adopters. And we are the only ones who have the option of the centre hole being open! mu hoo ha ha
 
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Vital

Well-Known Member
I was curious what most of you prefer for the body on your FlowrPot...14mm or 18mm? What (if any) are the advantages/disadvantages to having the 14mm VS. 18mm connection on the FlowerPot. It won't fit your glass without an adapter if it's the wrong size for you is a given...are there any other advantages or disadvantages?

Thank You...
 
Oogendoogan

Oogendoogan

Well-Known Member
Vital said:
I was curious what most of you prefer for the body on your FlowrPot...14mm or 18mm? What (if any) are the advantages/disadvantages to having the 14mm VS. 18mm connection on the FlowerPot. It won't fit your glass without an adapter if it's the wrong size for you is a given...are there any other advantages or disadvantages?

Thank You...
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I always advise going smaller over larger in joint size. Especially if your only gonna get one bowl. This is not for flowerpot reasons but for glass reasons. I give this advice daily working at a head shop. It is much easier to fit a 14mm piece into an 18mm rig than it is to fit an 18mm Piece into the smaller 14mm piece. This is something I always keep in mind. My daily rigs for the FP are 18s but I also use 14s a ton and I just use a 14mm bowl with a 18-14mm reducer. If you don’t mind buying multiple bowls or if you only use one joint size get either one. But IMO going smaller just helps with using it in other sized joints if you so wish :2c:
 
biohacker

biohacker

H.R.E.A.M
@JCat I just tossed 10 of those plugs in my cart and checked out and it was a super reasonable $10 for shipping. Just lemme know how many you need! I'm just waiting for confirmation of SH fit, but i'm pretty sure the holes of the Vrod are the identical size to the SH holes?
 
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EmDeemo

ACCOUNT INACTIVE
Well, this is great. Continued success with the VROD being way less aggravating on my lungs. Temps have crept back up slightly, dabbing at 590f, capped.

Clean up is even easier than the SH. Theres no build up of crud over time so far and the cotton bud just glides over the SiC and keeps it very clean.

This was really worth it. Love it!
 
disGRUNTled

disGRUNTled

Well-Known Member
Double deckers in the FP, Grapefruit + Lemon tree liked the combination yesterday so doing it again.
gwnZcXm.jpg

 
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EmDeemo

ACCOUNT INACTIVE
Current anally retentive joy with the VROD...

Being able to look at where the pooling is in the SiC dish, put the carb cap on top with the carb hole directly above the bit of oil I wanna vape off and inhale sharply! :)

Up at 600f. Its vaping the dabs quicker, with more clouds but no build up of irritation. I wonder how far up I can take this without starting to cough up a lung!?
 
thekayo

thekayo

Well-Known Member
Could anyone let me know what the yellow wire does on the enail controller? Is it a ground? Also. Could i get away with putting some electrical tape in there? My enail handle always comes loose after a couple weeks.
 
thekayo,
biohacker

biohacker

H.R.E.A.M
JCat said:
I’ll take some ... I know I need 1 ... lol
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I have one with your name on it! Free shipping! :D

emmdeemo said:
Current anally retentive joy with the VROD...

Being able to look at where the pooling is in the SiC dish, put the carb cap on top with the carb hole directly above the bit of oil I wanna vape off and inhale sharply! :)

Up at 600f. Its vaping the dabs quicker, with more clouds but no build up of irritation. I wonder how far up I can take this without starting to cough up a lung!?
Click to expand...

Welcome to the beauty of SiC! Don't forget you can spin that cap and really vape up every last drop!

All of your feedback has been with dabbing on the SIC dish. How's the FLOWER performance treating ya? :brow:

MileHighHuman said:
Where is the custom VROD coil for sale?
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They changed their coil a little while back so it's just the regular 20mm they carry (17mm height):

https://www.newvape.com/20mm-enail-coil-9109

You need the custom carb cap though - not sure if the dnail v2 fits.... but I don't see why it wouldnt?

MileHighHuman said:
https://highfivevape.com/universal-coil-adapter-1.html

https://highfivevape.com/universal-coil-adapter.html
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Did you read the descriptions? :lol: You need the #1 adapter since you're using another coil on a High5 controller. Enjoy your VAS again! ;)


So i'm now playing the waiting game...I have the SH kit, plugs/accessories, glass bowls, and Gr8tr v2, all incoming from different parts of the planet! Once the stars are in alignment, it will be time to Come Out and Play! :rockon:

 
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JCat

JCat

Well-Known Member
Accessory Maker
biohacker said:
I have one with your name on it! Free shipping! :D
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Thanks!!!

biohacker said:
Did you read the descriptions? :lol: You need the #1 adapter since you're using another coil on a High5 controller. Enjoy your VAS again! ;)
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@MileHighHuman ... this won't work ... the NV male coil end is proprietary (at least as far as e-nails go ... I think you find them on some CB's and industrial equipment as well!). The High5 adapters go from High5 wired XLR-5-pin to d-nail/standard XLR-5-pin. You need an adapter cable w/ an XLR-5 pin male end and a female GX16-5 connector (which I have been unable to find anywhere in the world online ... :lol: ... despite inquiring to multiple Chinese suppliers and searching endlessly online ... only place I can find them is by ordering the NV extension cable then cutting off the male end and replacing with standard 5-pin XLR)

So ... I'm making a set of 6 for $45 USD a piece (way too expensive but I'm sure they will cost me $30 USD each anyways)

Looks like NV shipping prices/options are down ... sort of ... you can choose the $10 option but no insurance ... so if it gets lost then I lose the money ... so you are looking at $25 insured.

Anyways ... going with economy shipping option ... if I was to build just 1 ... my cost would be:
- $25 USD (NV adapter cable shipped, not including potential duty, not insured so if lost $25 USD is lost)
- End + shipping + tax = ($6.50 + $8) * 1.13 = $16.39 CAD = ~$12.50 USD

So ... cost of a single cable is at least $37.50 USD (if just building one). That's my cost ... for me to even bother ... and this is really a stretch so ultimately doing this is a favour at this cost ... but I could do it for lets say $52.50 USD at the cheapest + shipping for one-offs ... this is insanely expensive, and for the trouble of ordering, assembling, shipping, and handling the details of the transaction ... the $15 I make isn't even minimum wage ...! :lol:

If I could get another batch of 6, then the price could go down, and be a little more reasonable, but still too expensive. Also, I am still looking for cheaper options besides ordering the NV adapter cable ... I'm waiting for a pair of parts from Amazon sometime in the next month that I'm hoping I can disassemble and re-assemble to make the correct connector ... if so then I'd be able to make the cables for a reasonable price ... but I'd say at absolute best this has a 50/50 chance of working (more realistically probably <25% chance)

I could also mod the coils, but the issue there is that if your coil blows you need another modded coil ... so it's not as good of a long term solution (and also not much more economical really ... it's only $15 USD for the adapter cable so the extra $15 USD is worth it vs just having a modded coil if you can't modify the coil yourself ...)
 
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xlr8shun

Well-Known Member
TLDR: got a new piece, but have to lower temps 100 degrees to get comparable results? can anyone help explain why that may be?

so, i got a new piece yesterday that is going to be dedicated to the flowerpot.

https://www.dhgate.com/product/12-inch-ccg-straight-fab-glass-bongs-oil/402029338.html

but i have been using the flowerpot on a larger piece since i received it shortly after the last 420 sale (2018). showerhead @ 750, vrod @ 650 using an ~18" straight tube, approx 2" in diameter. the perc on the tube is a custom job by a local guy. its almost like a fritted disk, however its not frits, he calls it loop-stitch, where the glass is almost crochet like.

anyway, the new piece arrived yesterday, its 18mm, where as the straight tube is 14mm, so while the flowerpot was heating up, i gave the new piece a quick iso wash. filled it with water swapped out the 14mm post for the 18mm post in the shovelhead.

first pull, oh shit, i see that bright orange glow through the showerhead holes... damn, combusted.

wiped everything out, rinsed out the bong, and proceeded to try again, pulled just a hair faster this time, and much better results. still seemed a little hot though. by now the wife is home and im loading her up a bowl, she's anxious to try the new piece as well.

shes almost done with her pull and again, bright orange glow. she says the vapor is much harsher than with the straight tube. again wipe out the bowl, change the water, and lower the PID to 650. wait for it to stabilize and we try again. much much better results this time.

has anyone else had similar experiences? do you have to adjust temp (drastically?) if you change bongs? can anyone help pinpoint why i combust at 750 uncapped on the 12" straight fab, but dont on the 18" straight tube?

newvape918 said:
Snagged these fresh from the lay.

sh_plugs.jpg
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like the little pin on the head of those, makes for easier removal! good idea...
 
Likes2vape

Likes2vape

Well-Known Member
xlr8shun said:
TLDR: got a new piece, but have to lower temps 100 degrees to get comparable results? can anyone help explain why that may be?

so, i got a new piece yesterday that is going to be dedicated to the flowerpot.

https://www.dhgate.com/product/12-inch-ccg-straight-fab-glass-bongs-oil/402029338.html

but i have been using the flowerpot on a larger piece since i received it shortly after the last 420 sale (2018). showerhead @ 750, vrod @ 650 using an ~18" straight tube, approx 2" in diameter. the perc on the tube is a custom job by a local guy. its almost like a fritted disk, however its not frits, he calls it loop-stitch, where the glass is almost crochet like.

anyway, the new piece arrived yesterday, its 18mm, where as the straight tube is 14mm, so while the flowerpot was heating up, i gave the new piece a quick iso wash. filled it with water swapped out the 14mm post for the 18mm post in the shovelhead.

first pull, oh shit, i see that bright orange glow through the showerhead holes... damn, combusted.

wiped everything out, rinsed out the bong, and proceeded to try again, pulled just a hair faster this time, and much better results. still seemed a little hot though. by now the wife is home and im loading her up a bowl, she's anxious to try the new piece as well.

shes almost done with her pull and again, bright orange glow. she says the vapor is much harsher than with the straight tube. again wipe out the bowl, change the water, and lower the PID to 650. wait for it to stabilize and we try again. much much better results this time.

has anyone else had similar experiences? do you have to adjust temp (drastically?) if you change bongs? can anyone help pinpoint why i combust at 750 uncapped on the 12" straight fab, but dont on the 18" straight tube?
Click to expand...
I notice bongs with more diffusion require a lower temp but it sounds like you may have less diffusion now.
 
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