Camouflet Convector XL

[budski]

It's a bit tricky, friction fit , just barely start to insert the screen, may need a allen wrench or condenser from the stem side to keep the screen from tilting or going too far in, may need to bend out 1 or more tabs. and pack/debowl gently

 

[Sour Dream]

I'll want another xl bowl/cap, hope the 4/20 discount is worthy.

what stems are those, i just gota Xl from Redzep cant wait to try it i loved the original

 

[budski]

small one is a Simerell, the big one is Dovetail wood works

 

[Sour Dream]

small one is a Simerell, the big one is Dovetail wood works

Thanks

 

[budski]

here's a roast comparison, 1/2 bowl on sm tip; 7sec in ufo for 1 hit, 4+sec to 2nd hit. 1/4 bowl in XL (about same amount of herb) 12sec in the wand OHE. could have got a darker abv from the sm one if I drew a bit harder and added a sec.
ps, I always draw while heating.

 

[TigoleBitties]

here's a roast comparison, 1/2 bowl on sm tip; 7sec in ufo for 1 hit, 4+sec to 2nd hit. 1/4 bowl in XL (about same amount of herb) 12sec in the wand OHE. could have got a darker abv from the sm one if I drew a bit harder and added a sec.
ps, I always draw while heating.

Nice pics.

So I've been thinking about the upcoming CeramoXL which according to Camouflet is on track to be shipped early April (almost here!). I opted not to go for the SuperCapacitor and your pics make me feel a bit better about this decision.

I realize your bowls weren't full but those piles look to be about 0.1g each and you got a OHE with a pretty dark roast on the XL in just 12sec with the Wand. That makes me wonder just how useful the SuperCapacitor cap will be considering it has 4x the thermal mass.

It will surely require a longer heating time given the extra mass but will it really be necessary? I'm not so sure. Especially since the regular cap should be a bit more effective on the Ceramo, given that any parasitic heat loss from the cap to the titanium bowl should be reduced compared with a ceramic bowl.

Again, the bowls in your pic weren't full so more flower should require more heating but with such a wide surface area on the XL, I'm wondering if you might still clear a full bowl in one go. Maybe it'd be worth it for the ability to space out your draws without re-heating for a more leisurely experience.

 

[coolbreeze]

Nice pics.

So I've been thinking about the upcoming CeramoXL which according to Camouflet is on track to be shipped early April (almost here!). I opted not to go for the SuperCapacitor and your pics make me feel a bit better about this decision.

I realize your bowls weren't full but those piles look to be about 0.1g each and you got a OHE with a pretty dark roast on the XL in just 12sec with the Wand (edit - sorry, you're using the UFO IH). That makes me wonder just how useful the SuperCapacitor cap will be considering it has 4x the thermal mass.

It will surely require a longer heating time given the extra mass but will it really be necessary? I'm not so sure. Especially since the regular cap should be a bit more effective on the Ceramo, given that any parasitic heat loss from the cap to the titanium bowl should be reduced compared with a ceramic bowl.

Again, the bowls in your pic weren't full so more flower should require more heating but with such a wide surface area on the XL, I'm wondering if you might still clear a full bowl in one go. Maybe it'd be worth it for the ability to space out your draws without re-heating for a more leisurely experience.

I usually space them out to keep the hit size manageable and to use it less aggressively in order to keep the roast more even and the flavor better. I got the Super Conductor because I hope it will retain enough heat to extend this slightly less aggressive approach and reduce heatings to one or two per bowl.

 

[TedJones]

I opted not to go for the SuperCapacitor

Me too. I like the current cap and can get the roast either light or dark depending on what I want. I am pretty aggressive and do OHE without reheating (except during pull if needed). Testimonials on the new cap could change my mind though!

 

[budski]

Nice pics.

So I've been thinking about the upcoming CeramoXL which according to Camouflet is on track to be shipped early April (almost here!). I opted not to go for the SuperCapacitor and your pics make me feel a bit better about this decision.

I realize your bowls weren't full but those piles look to be about 0.1g each and you got a OHE with a pretty dark roast on the XL in just 12sec with the Wand. That makes me wonder just how useful the SuperCapacitor cap will be considering it has 4x the thermal mass.

It will surely require a longer heating time given the extra mass but will it really be necessary? I'm not so sure. Especially since the regular cap should be a bit more effective on the Ceramo, given that any parasitic heat loss from the cap to the titanium bowl should be reduced compared with a ceramic bowl.

Again, the bowls in your pic weren't full so more flower should require more heating but with such a wide surface area on the XL, I'm wondering if you might still clear a full bowl in one go. Maybe it'd be worth it for the ability to space out your draws without re-heating for a more leisurely experience.

I had the supercap in my cart and was balking at the trigger for the same reasons. I do think it would be great if your passing around with a full bowl could probably get 4 good hits to share. But saw this morning the price went up to retail so that made the decision for me, as I'm not about to buy an $80 cap. if the Ti xl goes on sale again I'll gaet another

 

[any name you wish]

Has anyone ever taken apart any of the convector caps and seen what the heating elements look like? I've heard there is a stack of small screens inside the cap. My concern is if these screens are thin they will glow red when heating. This can off gas bad stuff immediately before we take a hit. Especially knowing these are made in China, a country you really can't trust when it comes to metallurgy.

I'm not slamming Camouflet at all, I love my SS convector. I am concerned about glowing metal. Thats the same reason I never use a torch, it creates local hotspots that are over off gas temp. I use the wand and it doesn't appear to glow but it might be glowing inside the cap.

I was hoping we could have a logical discussion about this and not become tribal like the dumpster fire of Reddit

Just trying to avoid Parkinson's here not attacking anyones lifestyle

I have a history of welding so I might be more aware of this issue, some will take it as paranoid

 

[budski]

I have had 1 heat screen fall out of the sm Ti cap looked like a stack of the same under it.

 

[any name you wish]

I have had 1 heat screen fall out of the sm Ti cap looked like a stack of the same under it.

Appreciate it, so they likely do glow if they are that thin. I would love to be proven wrong and make my convector my daily driver but it doesn't look good.

 

[RedZep]

Appreciate it, so they likely do glow if they are that thin. I would love to be proven wrong and make my convector my daily driver but it doesn't look good.

Would the material used matter? Or do all metals off gas if glowing?

 

[budski]

Appreciate it, so they likely do glow if they are that thin. I would love to be proven wrong and make my convector my daily driver but it doesn't look good.

I do think when the inner plates get that hot in the wand if you're drawing while heating it can create a hotspot/jet that you can hear (if it's quiet) and tends to lead to combustion wherever that jet hits the herb.

 

[any name you wish]

I do think when the inner plates get that hot in the wand if you're drawing while heating it can create a hotspot/jet that you can hear (if it's quiet) and tends to lead to combustion wherever that jet hits the herb.

I'm starting to think the (temporarily) glowing screens are why the hits are so damn satisfying with this vape, and also the thinness is why it's able to heat so quickly but it's a double edged sword. It might be worse with titanium because ALL of the heat hits those little screens.

If the capacitor has something like thick washers inside it might be better but it likely has screens

I would love to be wrong because I love the hits from this thing

 

[coolbreeze]

Has anyone ever taken apart any of the convector caps and seen what the heating elements look like? I've heard there is a stack of small screens inside the cap. My concern is if these screens are thin they will glow red when heating. This can off gas bad stuff immediately before we take a hit. Especially knowing these are made in China, a country you really can't trust when it comes to metallurgy.

I'm not slamming Camouflet at all, I love my SS convector. I am concerned about glowing metal. Thats the same reason I never use a torch, it creates local hotspots that are over off gas temp. I use the wand and it doesn't appear to glow but it might be glowing inside the cap.

I was hoping we could have a logical discussion about this and not become tribal like the dumpster fire of Reddit

Just trying to avoid Parkinson's here not attacking anyones lifestyle

I have a history of welding so I might be more aware of this issue, some will take it as paranoid

Material discussions should be in their own thread rather than the product thread, but I'd look up and make sure that the metal in question does actually off-gas when it glows, and when it stops (only while it glows? for some time afterwards? what temp range? etc.) and then what exactly constitutes the gas, if indeed it is actually off-gassing, and is it known to be dangerous? Do different manufacturing materials/processes change the metal sufficiently to alter these facts? Understanding the actual science (and I'm not saying I do) is the way to ease your concerns. So far we're making assumptions. How solid are they?

For instance:

"When heated to very high temperatures (melting or during welding operations), fumes may be produced."

and:

"Depending on elevation the temperature can vary. At higher elevations the boiling point of stainless steel is slightly less than 1600°F. At lower elevations it can be as high as 1650–1700°F. Those temperature readings will be where stainless steel would release toxic fumes. Usually these temperatures are only reached when welding.

I accidentally made a mistake. The °F should be °C. Sorry about the typo."

So, even a glowing cap is probably well below the 1600C range. Nevertheless, wait until the glow dies down before hitting it or you'll risk combustion, causing the ingestion of a rush of known bad stuff (tars, etc).

Finally:

"Titanium is a very reactive metal that burns in normal air at lower temperatures than the melting point. Melting is possible only in an inert atmosphere or vacuum. At 550 °C (1,022 °F), it combines with chlorine.[12] It also reacts with the other halogens and absorbs hydrogen.[13]

Titanium readily reacts with oxygen at 1,200 °C (2,190 °F) in air, and at 610 °C (1,130 °F) in pure oxygen, forming titanium dioxide.[17] Titanium is one of the few elements that burns in pure nitrogen gas, reacting at 800 °C (1,470 °F) to form titanium nitride, which causes embrittlement.[29]"

Titanium nitride is used in food coloring and sunscreen, fwiw, but perhaps it shouldn't be smoked. I'm sure there are those among us who could help us to understand this better, but again, that should be its own thread.

 

[n0tu2]

Got the SuperCapacitor..

It's a tight fit on the XL.. At first it did not slip on the bowl at all. Appeared as if the teeth were the same diameter as the bowl's diameter. Had to ever so slightly push a tooth with my finger.. just a little pressure on one or two of the teeth with my thumb.. not bending it at all, just a couple little pushes here and there - it now slips on and off the bowl with ease. Doesn't seem to go down all the way without pushing it down with a little more force for that last millimeter and the tightest fit. I know it should not be all the way down as far as it can go anyway - it's easier to remove if it's up a little bit..

So when just lightly slipping it onto the bowl until some resistance is felt it sort of wants to sit 2 or 3 degrees off level.. so needs a light push with thumb on one side to appear level.. this doesn't effect performance, just a visual peev and it isn't as bad as it sounds, most wouldn't even notice such a slight tilt. I think it's worked itself out after a few heatings tho.

It's big......... makes the OG XL cap look like the convector cap side by side.. just a big lug nut, lol. Soaked it in ISO for a bit and rinsed ..did a quick burn off to get any residual water out...

Only had one session with it so far.. I didn't change my heating pattern at all from the OG XL cap to test.. much easier to use a triple torch set to 1/2-3/4" inner blue flames as the SC heating area is clearly defined by the top bulge. 8/9 seconds from cold got me two nice hits.. 3rd was warm but lite to no visible vapor.. another set of two 5 seconds or so got me another 1.5-2ish hits each.. Sure could push it a few seconds more each go and get more hits per heat, but was just testing it native. Slow easy vapman style draw for a couple seconds to start and then ramping up the draw for the last 7 or 8 seconds as I start to feel the vapor and warmth coming per hit.

Definately notice the SC takes about 2x as long to cool down.. kept touching and testing it but eventually was able to pull it off bare hands maybe 30-45 seconds or so more then the OG cap would of taken (blowing on it to cool it). One quick grab/pull and place it down on its teeth. Still hot but you have to do this move in one fast motion and execute it perfectly or get some hot finger tips.. one two three.. Go It cooled very quickly after it was off the stem, you could touch it to your lips after the time it took to empty, brush out the bowl, and inspect the avb - it was a little over room temp and could for sure easily hold it in a minute or so. Got an even medium roast on this first go.

Still need to have a few more sessions with it.. but it works just fine.. nothing majorly different or amazing except the fact that you can take multiple hits with it per heatup. I can't decide if I like more hits with the delay before I can decap it manually or just single hits with the OG cap and fast decap/clean up/store away.. I have magnets and leather decappers, etc. sure you could use those.. but it's just another accessory I need to have with me for the faster sessions (trying to keep it simple.. bamboo tube, torch, brush and stash).. will give it some time before deciding if it will replace the OG cap full time.

Oh.. it all fits in the bamboo tube while on the XL stem just like the regular cap does, no problems there.. I'm not unhappy with it at all.. just have to change the ritual a bit to deal with the heat retention and spend some more time with it.

I don't think anyone would be disappointed with it as long as you know what your in for and expecting from it.

 

[TigoleBitties]

I'm starting to think the (temporarily) glowing screens are why the hits are so damn satisfying with this vape, and also the thinness is why it's able to heat so quickly but it's a double edged sword. It might be worse with titanium because ALL of the heat hits those little screens.

If the capacitor has something like thick washers inside it might be better but it likely has screens

I would love to be wrong because I love the hits from this thing

I just want to clarify that in all of Camouflet's caps, the heating matrix (those fine mesh screens that act as a heat battery) is made of stainless steel regardless of whether the rest of the cap is titanium or stainless steel. I believe this is to make the matrix more IH friendly as pure titanium doesn't heat as efficiently via induction.

 

[coolbreeze]

Got the SuperCapacitor..

It's a tight fit on the XL.. At first it did not slip on the bowl at all. Appeared as if the teeth were the same diameter as the bowl's diameter. Had to ever so slightly push a tooth with my finger.. just a little pressure on one or two of the teeth with my thumb.. not bending it at all, just a couple little pushes here and there - it now slips on and off the bowl with ease. Doesn't seem to go down all the way without pushing it down with a little more force for that last millimeter and the tightest fit. I know it should not be all the way down as far as it can go anyway - it's easier to remove if it's up a little bit..

So when just lightly slipping it onto the bowl until some resistance is felt it sort of wants to sit 2 or 3 degrees off level.. so needs a light push with thumb on one side to appear level.. this doesn't effect performance, just a visual peev and it isn't as bad as it sounds, most wouldn't even notice such a slight tilt. I think it's worked itself out after a few heatings tho.

It's big......... makes the OG XL cap look like the convector cap side by side.. just a big lug nut, lol. Soaked it in ISO for a bit and rinsed ..did a quick burn off to get any residual water out...

Only had one session with it so far.. I didn't change my heating pattern at all from the OG XL cap to test.. much easier to use a triple torch set to 1/2-3/4" inner blue flames as the SC heating area is clearly defined by the top bulge. 8/9 seconds from cold got me two nice hits.. 3rd was warm but lite to no visible vapor.. another set of two 5 seconds or so got me another 1.5-2ish hits each.. Sure could push it a few seconds more each go and get more hits per heat, but was just testing it native. Slow easy vapman style draw for a couple seconds to start and then ramping up the draw for the last 7 or 8 seconds as I start to feel the vapor and warmth coming per hit.

Definately notice the SC takes about 2x as long to cool down.. kept touching and testing it but eventually was able to pull it off bare hands maybe 30-45 seconds or so more then the OG cap would of taken (blowing on it to cool it). One quick grab/pull and place it down on its teeth. Still hot but you have to do this move in one fast motion and execute it perfectly or get some hot finger tips.. one two three.. Go It cooled very quickly after it was off the stem, you could touch it to your lips after the time it took to empty, brush out the bowl, and inspect the avb - it was a little over room temp and could for sure easily hold it in a minute or so. Got an even medium roast on this first go.

Still need to have a few more sessions with it.. but it works just fine.. nothing majorly different or amazing except the fact that you can take multiple hits with it per heatup. I can't decide if I like more hits with the delay before I can decap it manually or just single hits with the OG cap and fast decap/clean up/store away.. I have magnets and leather decappers, etc. sure you could use those.. but it's just another accessory I need to have with me for the faster sessions (trying to keep it simple.. bamboo tube, torch, brush and stash).. will give it some time before deciding if it will replace the OG cap full time.

Oh.. it all fits in the bamboo tube while on the XL stem just like the regular cap does, no problems there.. I'm not unhappy with it at all.. just have to change the ritual a bit to deal with the heat retention and spend some more time with it.

I don't think anyone would be disappointed with it as long as you know what your in for and expecting from it.

Nice review! Thanks for being thorough. I can't wait to try it. have you tried it through water yet? Curious if the vacuum pressure has any effect on the roasting.

 

[n0tu2]

Nice review! Thanks for being thorough. I can't wait to try it. have you tried it through water yet? Curious if the vacuum pressure has any effect on the roasting.

not yet, all my glass is packed away.. been very minimal/native lately bouncing between regular convector, xl, tempest, and the vapmen.. I can't really tell any difference from the OG XL cap.. pull and hits are the same.. maybe a little more medicated (possibly placebo).. haven't pushed it yet tho.. only notice it's bigger with multi-hits per heat and the longer cool down time really.. only had the one go with it.. maybe on weekend I'll pull out a bubbler Not going to push it for the 1HE but I'm sure it can do it.. it's just too hot for me doing that native ..roasty