Gear Best Clearo for Pure Gold?

[sethhobrin]

also there are bootleg kanger atomizers out there, i'm pretty sure the gotvapes ones are spurious.

I got them from http://www.myvaporstore.com/default.asp

They sure look legit. The equipment looked legit too. Apparently after researching there is a V1 and a V2 of the dual coil atomizers. the V1 has wicks that stick out on the sides and the V2 does not and is redesigned a bit.

V1
http://www.myvaporstore.com/Atomizer_Head_for_Protank_3_Aerotank_EVOD2_T3D_p/krpt3-lsah.htm

V2
http://www.myvaporstore.com/Atomizer_Head_for_Aerotank_Mini_Aerotank_Mega_p/kratm-lsah.htm

 

[Roth]

And for those that are following the ever changing Kanger tank and atty saga...

There are now three types of dual bottom coil atty's for the Kanger AeroTank (and Mini and Mega) and ProTank 3 (and Mini 3), and EVOD 2, T3D and EVOD Glass. All three varieties of atty work in all of the mentioned tanks, and all are available in both 1.5Ω and 2.0Ω.

Type 1 is the original, with two wicks protruding out each side of the atty about 1mm via a slot on each side that runs from the bottom to the top of the atty. It was released with the original ProTank 3. (There was even a version without a long top tube that was released with the prototype PT3s, but it was never actually sold or included with shipping PT3s. Ah, probably too much info).

Type 2 was released with the AeroTank and AeroTank Mini. It has two holes drilled in each side of the atty, instead of a full length slot, and the two wicks do NOT protrude outside the shell. There is a thin layer of a porus material on the inside of the shell. The two holes (on each side) run vertically and are spaced such that one more hole of the same size made between them would remove all the metal, making a single oval shaped hole three holes high.

Type 3 was released with the AeroTank Mega, and is the same as the Type 2, except instead of two holes on each side, there is a single oval hole on each side, as described above.

You can get the Type 3 version from fasttech now. (2.0Ω link) (1.5Ω link). Expect to wait at least two or three weeks before they show up. $8.61 per five pack. You can get the Type 2 versions from a bunch of US places now, at around $9-$10 per five pack. You can still get Type 1 attys here in the US for a few bucks less. All of these genuine KangerTech.


I've been using a Type 2 for a week or so, having put maybe a gram through it, in my Mini ProTank 3. I'm down to about a half gram left, watching to see how it does with an almost empty tank. I haven't been in 100° weather, so I can't see if it leaks when carried in my pocket outside. So far I like it better than the Type 1, as it doesn't have the tiny bit of oil in the airpath that has to be cleared with the first hit on a cold pipe. Also, I don't know if the Type 3, which was released with the MEGA version of the AeroTank, will work as well (with Pure Gold) with the MINI AeroTank/Protank3. I'm getting all the flow I want with the two holes on each side (Type 2), and I wonder if 50% more flow that the Type 3 provides will have a tendency to leak when warm, or force me to take one second hits instead of the three second hits I prefer. Time will tell. I haven't ordered any Type 3 atty's from fasttech.

@sethhobrin Here's some info about the different types of atty's that Haywood posted a while back. I haven't had enough experience with all the types to know which I prefer at this point.

 

[Haywood]

And there's a "type 4" announced as well, which uses solid ceramic wicks rather than the standard wick material. As far as I can tell, they haven't been shipped to dealers yet.

There are also new lower resistance coils (in the "type 3" construction) shipping. As I recall, in addition to the 1.5Ω and 2.0Ω atty's previously available, these are 0.8Ω, 1.0Ω, and 1.2Ω. (I may have the new values a little wrong; don't have time to search the KangerTech web site to double check).

 

[215z]

I have high hopes for the Type 4

 

[fernand]

I have high hopes for the Type 4

Yes. One of the current failure modes seems to be when the wick gets old, encrusted and hard, and that allows more liquid to get by and ... Gurgle & Leak. Sounds like a law firm. So if a wick is already hard by design, and if IF it will work with thick liquids ...

I'm having an interesting battle with a BUD. Lost the little blue plug. Fatal. Tried to make a replacement with silicone remnants and razor blade. Slight airleak. But look Ma, no burping needed. Yes, Son, but isn't that liquid working its way up the sidetube? To be continued ...

 

[baltik]

So what's the consensus V1s least prone to leaking?

 

[exit]

why wouldn't you want to use a better tank... i feel like if i wanted to fill a tank with pure gold i would do it with something like my kayfun 3.1 instead of a clearo. clearos are kinda junk. i mean i just feel like if you can build a way nicer wick for a tank meant to do ejuice well why settle for a tank meant to do them just okay and then be thrown out.

i dont ecig anymore since i kicked nicotine but i still have it and run it at 2 ohms with a cotton wick and its so good. i have not had the chance to try out straight tincture out of it

 

[215z]

@exit All e-cig users go through this progressive evolution of devices.

I don't think it's fair that people have to spend so much money on a succession of leaky substandard clearos, but that seems to be the way it is.

asking ecig users to start with good equipment seems to fall on deaf ears.

Worse still, suggesting good hardware to new users may encourage them to give up and stick to familiar tools eg combustion.

 

[exit]

@exit All e-cig users go through this progressive evolution of devices.

I don't think it's fair that people have to spend so much money on a succession of leaky substandard clearos, but that seems to be the way it is.

asking ecig users to start with good equipment seems to fall on deaf ears.

Worse still, suggesting good hardware to new users may encourage them to give up and stick to familiar tools eg combustion.

definitely, but i think disposable carts are fine for concentrates in most instances. but if we're talking "best" here in terms of performance, not necesairally what you'd recommend to your friends who fall into the last group there

 

[fernand]

why wouldn't you want to use a better tank... i feel like if i wanted to fill a tank with pure gold i would do it with something like my kayfun 3.1 instead of a clearo. clearos are kinda junk. i mean i just feel like if you can build a way nicer wick for a tank meant to do ejuice well why settle for a tank meant to do them just okay and then be thrown out.

i dont ecig anymore since i kicked nicotine but i still have it and run it at 2 ohms with a cotton wick and its so good. i have not had the chance to try out straight tincture out of it

@exit, I'm confused. You do or don't vape? And any day now you gonna stand proud and vape "straight tincture" in your Kayfun 3.1?!?? What ARE you talking about? What have you actually gotten to work "so good"?

We here have been testing and reporting on every which way we try to make it work, it's a moving target, doesn't work perfectly, and you come to tell us we're cheap and ignorant for not using your favorite $200 RDA (with a plastic window)?

I'd love to hear/see some detailed specifics, if you've discovered a great e-cig way to vape PureGold and oils. More info is good! We're just little people, trying to find a way to carry a stealthy little vape. So, anyway, I'm listening, you just squeezed a 1/2g of PureGold in the KayFun (how? Where?), and what happened?

================================

Workshop tests today have been on using straight thick oil in place of PureGold in a new MiniProTank2. Why not just thin with EJMix? Because the mPT2 has worked well with PureGold. Now that I've found some aromatic thick oils with a taste I like, I'm trying to avoid glycols entirely. I don't really like that taste. And with that low low wick, the mPT2 seem like it might be one of the few tanko devices that can possibly work directly with thick oils. So ... will it?

 

[Quetzalcoatl]

Yes. One of the current failure modes seems to be when the wick gets old, encrusted and hard, and that allows more liquid to get by and ... Gurgle & Leak. Sounds like a law firm. So if a wick is already hard by design, and if IF it will work with thick liquids ...

I'm having an interesting battle with a BUD. Lost the little blue plug. Fatal. Tried to make a replacement with silicone remnants and razor blade. Slight airleak. But look Ma, no burping needed. Yes, Son, but isn't that liquid working its way up the sidetube? To be continued ...

Pull the wicks out, dry fire the coils to clean, and replace the wicks with cotton...

 

[fernand]

Dipped in e-juice cotton stays wet. Oils are much thicker. Cotton burns if it can't keep up. Silica is glass, doesn't burn. Ceramic doesn't burn. So why cotton?

 

[215z]

I'm the only one who gets silica to burn? Not burn like cotton, but burn enough to taste nasty - no isobath can fix that.

Because of the possibility of dry burning when errl isn't warm enough to wick and flow, I've settled on ceramic. Porous, braided, black, white, they can be torched without tasting nasty.

Edit cotton and bamboo wick like a banshee when wet.

 

[fernand]

It always looked to me like it's residue on silica wicks that tastes nasty, until it's burned off. I've dry burned a lot of coils along with their silica or ceramic wicks.

This is more speculation but i can't imagine cotton wicking a heavy thick oil very well. Seems like the fine and soft structure would just fill and gum up. Something with more rigidity seems better?

 

[215z]

Your household candles use cotton wicks and paraffin - way heavier than cannabis oleoresin. Clearly, it is a question of temperature, when warm shit flows like a mother.

 

[fernand]

Your household candles use cotton wicks and paraffin - way heavier than cannabis oleoresin. Clearly, it is a question of temperature, when warm shit flows like a mother.

Very true, but the candle wick is woven, not bunched up cotton, and the paraffin is very hot. A candle wick combusts. That pulls in more melt, but would I want to inhale it? Silica and ceramic don't burn up.

I don't have a horse in this race, if it works for you, it works. And it's a fast repair. For some of us rewicking might not be worth it. I'm just looking for simple solutions. If dropping in a new $1.50 head works, with a new coil, a new silica wick, it's alright. So far so good. Pulsing the button to prewarm the ooze does the trick. Easy does it. People who bitch about the price of PureGold have an alternative. On the stealth front, must concede, it smells like glorious buds. Private use. This is all just educational and hypothetical.

 

[530rasta]

Hey dudes and girls,

Im new to this ecig worl, somewhat. The terms an such are a bit intimidating, but after a night of research i bought two packs of the sapphire carts and a Kanger E-smart Manhattan 510 320mah Battery.

Does this sound like a good setup for using with co2 oils/pure gold?

this is going to be a strictly on the road setup.

One thing that kind of caught my eye was the sapphire description says it has a 'foam' insert on the bottom to prevent leaks ect...Is this foam in contact with the juice/oil in the cart? I dont think it would be too bad but the idea of vaping some hash oil after its been sitting on top of some foam doesnt sound very good, ..lol im a bit anal about that shit but am putting aside some of my concerns about certain health safety for a tool i can use while driving.

this is all bout ease of access for me, my plan is to load with the co2 oil you can get that comes in syringes. I usually use a SOLO flower vape, but the hassle of the loading unloading, plant matter ect, isnt ideal imo for 'on the road' medication

thanks to all who contributed to this thread, especially Haywood. I read the whole thing last night and was informed much better after i did.

thanks and any more advice ect is always appreciated

 

[215z]

@exit should be accustomed to the defensive response. It is cool, and if @fernand comes back in the future asking about better gear, we'll be right here to answer each and every question he has.

I can get pretty high on concentrates using a spoon and a bic. we all agree that there is a better way than that, taking into account long term use and reliability.

 

[fernand]

We're all in the same boat here. I'm just reporting what I found, apologies, no offense intended, @exit. After vaping e-liquids for years, it's a different thing. My theory is you can make most any setup work if you approach it kind of like flying a plane in the 1930s: gotta keep an eye on the engine, fully understand the mechanics and try to keep all the components working. I don't see a "quality" issue.

@530rasta, it's a good start. There's a plastic or silicon base in the Sapphires (BUDs), it's probably plenty safe. But that little metal tube has to warm up just so or the stuff won't feed down to the coil. That's why most of us are thinning it with some EJMix. That works fine. But thinner liquids -> more leaks. And it needs burping or you get dry hits. When you burp it, don't lose the little blue plastic plug. I'm still looking for one in the carpet.

I don't know which other ones work better, @215z, there could be many others, I'm all ears. But once the thick oil is flowed into the mPT2, it does its heating-feeding-vaping-venting cycle pretty well, all by itself. There is a large area in the base, below visibility in the photos above, where 1/2 ml of honey-like oil pools in excellent contact with the whole wick. It's a bigger "hole" than in a BUD, but smaller than in a ProTank3, and the capillary wick is right there. If I didn't have EJMix I'd wet a new wick with a drop of Propylene Glycol. Warm things up and partially block the little airholes, and it pulls a little more oil into the chamber as you vape. PureGold works primo as per @Haywood, and the CO2 and Iso oils I tried work too. Just don't rush it. The slightest hint of dry and you need to help it. Even with nicotine VG e-liquids I have to block the holes and suck in some juice now and then. Or it will burn liquid and the head will forever taste horrible. At some point the wick/coil will crud up for good and will need a new $1.50 head.

Sorry, I'm just pleasantly suprised, and a bit enthused ;-)

 

[exit]

@exit, I'm confused. You do or don't vape? And any day now you gonna stand proud and vape "straight tincture" in your Kayfun 3.1?!?? What ARE you talking about? What have you actually gotten to work "so good"?

I'd love to hear/see some detailed specifics, if you've discovered a great e-cig way to vape PureGold and oils. More info is good! We're just little people, trying to find a way to carry a stealthy little vape. So, anyway, I'm listening, you just squeezed a 1/2g of PureGold in the KayFun (how? Where?), and what happened?

It's not straight pure gold, or even pure gold at all. We can't get pure gold out here. I was under the impression it wasn't as sludgey.

The only tincture i have used is almost liquidy with how runny it is and yes I have used it successfully mixed with a tiny bit of 0mg ecig liquid. It is also possible to do with oils that are about that runny, like the kind you need a dab spoon to pick up. It works, at least. I have also used straight co2 oil and i just used my kayfun because i didnt wanna use a shitty clearo. maybe it wasnt the best, but i rarely do this anyway, im a flowers dude

No worries @fernand no offense taken at all.

 

[fernand]

@exit, I'm a flower lover too. But looking for that portable thing with as much of the flavonoids etc preserved. Yeah PureGold is about as thick as a thick oil. At room temp it will take either over an hour to travel an inverted tank. It's not a flower oil, but then again it doesn't smell like it either.

I thought a glycerin-based tincture might work, but it's way too weak, and glycerin is totally incompatible with oils. Propylene Glycol + other glycols = EJMix. THAT's perfectly miscible with all the oils I've tried.

@530rasta, this is how the Sapphire/BUD and the miniProtank2 compare. It took a good deal on a gram of heavy oil (and some courage) to convince me to put it as-is, unthinned, into the ProTank2. It vanishes down into the "trench" where it bathes the two-sided wick. The wick is at the very bottom, on "the deck" - so it can feed all the way to the last drop. IMHO it tastes lovely with no glycols.

On a Sapphire, waxes thinned with about 30% EJMix works if I burp it often. But I can't imagine an unthinned oil getting through that little tube in time; it's hard enough to prevent dry/burned hits even with that runny half and half glycol dilution of plant trim extracts they fill them with in CA dispensaries.

Bottom line, IMHO unthinned oil tastes better, but having some EJMix on hand is a good idea. Pure Propylene Glycol doesn't make a stable clear blend with oils (like that clear Sour Diesel supermelt w/ 30% EJMix in the Sapphire on the left). I went through a lot of testing and couldn't get Propylene Glycol to be a reliable solvent by itself, murky separation was always a hair away. But adding even a little EJMix would turn it clear.

 

[tepictoton]

@fernand read and reread your posts several times, but still some things remain unclear to me.

I believe at one point you mentioned loading straigth oil into mPT2? Is that correct?

When mixing the oil with EJ-mix, do you decarb it first? Decarbing seems to make it more liquid and should help here?

I am trying to go and buy some PEG400today, and if possible some d-limonene to do some experimenting. I know the d-limonene does dissolve the decarbed material and it will stay in solution, even after cooling down. Only made the mistake last time of adding 5ml of d-limoene to one g of bho, resulting in a liquid that had an overwhelming taste of oranges...if I can find it I will let you guys know how it worked out...(only now realize this is the pure gold thread...guess the difference is relatively small and you guys are also more then happy to hear about my insights with this?)

Oh, and I am using a spinner 2 with a mPT3 and a davinci mini, both with bottom dual coils.

 

[fernand]

Yes, @tepictoton that's my happy find. Unthinned thick oil in the mPT2. I don't know if it's fully decarbed. I'm sorry I wasn't clearer, but I only thin w/ EJMix where inevitable, like for the BUD/Sapphires. Oil like this, she go straight in the mPT2.

Just wet the new mPT2 head's wick with a trace propylene glycol or EJMix, assemble, then warm and get that thick oil into the mPT2 glass tank. After assembly and filling, a little patience, the oil works its way up the wick as you pulse the button and suck, and block airholes to increase suction as needed. You first taste the glycol primer, then it settles in and warm oil starts feeding, and it works. Just don't hold the button down and expect bong hits, you'll just dry burn oil. It needs to warm up and feed. Spinner II at 3.3 volts, 2.2 ohm coil. It's like driving a 1965 MG, not a Prius. But it's a no brainer. No thinning, no mixing. It costs under $10 and should hold 2-3 grams.

The mPT3 just presents a bigger dual wick and I prefer that for my glycerin-based nicotine e-juice. More chance of gurgling/leaking, but if you keep enough oil down in there to cover all the wicking openings, it should work with thick oils too. I dunno about the whiskerless V3 heads, or whichever @Haywood calls them, as I recall he wasn't as happy with those for Pure Gold. For PureGold and oils I do prefer the smaller & single coil mPT2 head with whiskers. With an extra silicone spacer the single coil head might work in a mPT3 body.

 

[tepictoton]

Thx for the reply...

Decarbed half a gram of shatter, added .25ml of d-limonene and for now I am a happy camper :-) my mPT3 with bdc (without wiskers) and this mixture is a fog machine...

 

[215z]

D-limonene is like a heavy hexane, it will mix extremely well with BHO. Tetralabs puts like 5% in pure gold.