ataxian
PALE BLUE DOT
You ever rebuild a coil with T2?
Gear Best Clearo for Pure Gold?
- Thread starter Haywood
- Start date
arrr
Well-Known Member
Thanks I thought so but just wanted to be sure. My problem with my mPT3 is it leaks from the air hole. I am not to sure about the air path but I thought the air came through the hole in the cup under the coil?
If thats the case i am not sure how cotten on the outside of the cup will help. Also does the cotton on the outside of the cup get juice on it that does not get vaped? This could be a problem cause our juice is expensive.
Thanks.
ataxian
PALE BLUE DOT
mPT3?
What is that?
kingtut106
Well-Known Member
@arrr You are correct the air travels from underneath the head. The cotton around the outside of the cup prevents flooding from occurring inside the head by absorbing the juice. Eventually it will get vaped, but I'm not sure if it will completely vape clean using a more viscous fluid. I have zero experience with pure gold so I'm sorry I can't be that much of a help...
@ataxian mPT3 is a mini protank version 3 and no I have not rebuild a T2, but from my understanding it is a bulb style atomizer so it shouldn't be that different.
@ataxian mPT3 is a mini protank version 3 and no I have not rebuild a T2, but from my understanding it is a bulb style atomizer so it shouldn't be that different.
ataxian
PALE BLUE DOT
Thank you.
Funny I have one?
My problem is I get headaches from PURE GOLD (love the taste) CO2 Oil,
THC Oil or anything runny.
Honeycomb Blonde Wax and Shatter's don't give me a spiting head like the running stuff does?
Pure Gold was my favorite before?
So I stay with SHATTER and Flowers.
The last K.I.S.S. cart I had rebuilt with T2 and it is easier than a TORCH.
Nice to push a button and zero wait!
arrr
Well-Known Member
This guy has an idea on how to stop a leak.http://godofsteam.wordpress.com/2013/07/12/how-to-fix-kanger-evod-leakinggurgling-issues/
Going to test it out soon
Going to test it out soon
215z
Well-Known Member
fernand
Well-Known Member
IMHO it matters that these blogs are from people vaping nicotine e-juice. I vape 100% VG, i.e. all Vegetable Glycerin e-juice with 0 to 8 mg nicotine / ml. As an e-juice user I often chain vape, so the wicking has to be 100% constant, and there are other specific requirements on the equipment.
As a C-juice vaper it's very different. Both Pure Gold and homemade C-juice are way way WAY more viscous than even my 100% VG. The C-juice cannot wick "uphill", the viscosity changes more dramatically with temperature, and it's an oil vs. water soluble liquid that acts differently on the wicks. Many of the fixes developed for e-juice don't necessarily apply.
@ataxian, sorry to hear about the new headaches. Pretty hard to pin down the reason. Pure Gold's a special case, but have you tried taking some wax you like and adding a few drops of EJMix to see? It takes about 20-30% EJMix and then warming and mixing to make it vape well in a carto.
As a C-juice vaper it's very different. Both Pure Gold and homemade C-juice are way way WAY more viscous than even my 100% VG. The C-juice cannot wick "uphill", the viscosity changes more dramatically with temperature, and it's an oil vs. water soluble liquid that acts differently on the wicks. Many of the fixes developed for e-juice don't necessarily apply.
@ataxian, sorry to hear about the new headaches. Pretty hard to pin down the reason. Pure Gold's a special case, but have you tried taking some wax you like and adding a few drops of EJMix to see? It takes about 20-30% EJMix and then warming and mixing to make it vape well in a carto.
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kingtut106
Well-Known Member
I had an extra head laying around so I took the silicon cap from it and did what was suggested. I didn't have a leakage issue prior with my build, but when my tank went below half way I would loose pressure and get gurgling. This completely stopped that from happening, great find @arrr and this should be beneficial for anyone using a kanger head.
fernand
Well-Known Member
@kingtut106 glad to hear it. You mean you added an inverted cap over the original one? Does yours look like the blogger's last photo?
I'd have trouble getting that to fit in my mPT3. For one thing the base wouldn't screw all the way in because my single silicone cup is already compressed.
If adding that helps, and if you can even screw the base in all the way, doesn't that say there was a problem with your original cap not being pushed well enough against the cross-member to seal it when the base was screwed in?
I suspect a defect. They have to use compressible silicone o-rings and cups to cover manufacturing tolerances. I wonder if maybe some of the pyrex tubes are cut a bit too long. If you look at it, wouldn't that cause the head never to seal properly against the "whatever that cross-member is called that the threaded airtube screws into". It would leave a gap. Adding another would be like adding a washer.
When my mini AirTank started disintegrating, with the threaded female insert - that the male threaded airtube screws into on that design - coming loose in the cross-member, it became obvious how critical the length of the tank is. It's essential to how the tank halves screw together. The base needs to screw in all the way, the head needs to fully seat and compress the silicone cap. Tricky.
I'd have trouble getting that to fit in my mPT3. For one thing the base wouldn't screw all the way in because my single silicone cup is already compressed.
If adding that helps, and if you can even screw the base in all the way, doesn't that say there was a problem with your original cap not being pushed well enough against the cross-member to seal it when the base was screwed in?
I suspect a defect. They have to use compressible silicone o-rings and cups to cover manufacturing tolerances. I wonder if maybe some of the pyrex tubes are cut a bit too long. If you look at it, wouldn't that cause the head never to seal properly against the "whatever that cross-member is called that the threaded airtube screws into". It would leave a gap. Adding another would be like adding a washer.
When my mini AirTank started disintegrating, with the threaded female insert - that the male threaded airtube screws into on that design - coming loose in the cross-member, it became obvious how critical the length of the tank is. It's essential to how the tank halves screw together. The base needs to screw in all the way, the head needs to fully seat and compress the silicone cap. Tricky.
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kingtut106
Well-Known Member
Yup mine looks just like his. It was a little tough to screw down, but I was able to get it down all the way. I'm using an aerotank instead of a mPT3 so that might be the difference.
I completely agree with the silicone o-ring ideas, these are made in China so that could explain the shortcuts or defects.
If you look at higher end clearos like a KFL+ or Russian 91% they use threads for the chimneys to keep a better vacuum. From my understanding an ideal setup for Pure Gold would want a similar setup except without the raised deck in order to not need the fluid to travel vertically. I will do some searching to see if I can find anything with properly sealed chimneys and a flat deck where the coil sits.
Edit: Anyone ever think of using a genesis style atomizer? You have to tip the tank to wick the coil so the viscosity of Pure Gold should not be a problem. There are potential leaking problems from my quick reading, but it could be worth a shot...
Edit2: So the main issue with genesis style atomizer is them being left on there side causing liquid to leak out of the coil hole. If anything this should be less of a problem using Pure Gold since it is more viscous than juice. Also using different wicking and getting a tight fitting coil could significantly reduce the chance of this happening. I'm not sure what exactly you guys want out of a setup using Pure Gold, but I was guess not constantly filling/applying, minimal leaking, good clouds/flavor...?
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215z
Well-Known Member
I think genesis style tanks with SS mesh would work great for solid concentrates like shatter, but pure gold will leak in your pocket. Shatter won't flow when cool, and the SS mesh will warm it up enough to get it wicking uphill - like a run of the mill paraffin candle.
I figure anyone resorting to pure gold is going to list "pocketable" as a priority.
I figure anyone resorting to pure gold is going to list "pocketable" as a priority.
sethhobrin
Well-Known Member
Can you guys tell me what is currently the latest and greatest equipment? I want something small with a small tank(not a huge tank) that I can mix EJMIX with Shatter/Wax to make liquid to put in like an ecig. I purchased everything I need but the device. There is so much conflicting info and opinions I just can't decide and don't want to purchase 5 of them to figure out what works? Any of you pros share your setup that is working well? I cannot have this thing leaking on me, etc and I don't understand ohms, etc. I have an EGO CTWIST 1000ma with variable voltage.
I am OK with paying more for something of higher quality that will work.
I am OK with paying more for something of higher quality that will work.
I find the EVOD Glass works very nicely and fits perfectly with your C Twist. 1.5ml capacity, very simple, 1.5 ohm coils that are cheap and can even be rebuild by the enthousiast. I put the QWISO in a shot glass in a water bath so the golden QWISO melts and then I add enough PEG400 to make it dissolve. Then I add enough PG to get the dilution I want. I find if I add VG my juice gets cloudy.
fernand
Well-Known Member
Below is what I use, anyway. The first two from the left are BUD cartos filled with homemade supermelts w/ 30% EJMix. The next two are the shorter pre-filled O-Pen-Vape 1/2 gram BUD carts from a local dispensary. The 5th with the rounded driptip is a single coil Mini Protank 2 with 1/2 g of PureGold. It's what I like best for PureGold. The PureGold seems lost in the vastness, but it slowly pools into place and feeds fine with dry pulls. I can always get a couple medicating hits without giving it the slightest thought or preparation.
The 6th is a Mini ProTank 3 that I like best for the VG e-liquids I mix. The ProTank 3 uses a dual coil and for many reasons I prefer it (only) for e-liquids.
The Kangertechs use replaceable heads, the BUDs are disposable. The BUDs have small tanks and it's a breeze adding or removing liquids. 99% recovery is easy with an 18G needle. The commercial O-Pen-Vape liquids themselves can be mediocre, but their carts have all the pros and cons of BUDs.
Kangertechs work without much fiddling but in case of trouble it's harder to recover all the goods. The BUDs require dry pulls and frequent burping for best taste etc, but the end result is very good, so I'm fine with that. If used in "it should just work" mode the dry burned hits will disappoint. As soon as the taste gets a bit dry, pull the cap and the blue plug for a moment.
Not perfect, but all these are very usable. With 2 ohm coils, I set the voltage to 3.3 - 3.5 volts. All the liquid then simmers unburned and the vapor tastes good, though in truth no hot oil is great on the throat. A longer cooling pathway or water would help, but isn't too practical. More power, lower resistance, creates more vapor faster, but some of it burns where the wire glows, which reduces health benefits.
I usually carry the carts separate from the battery, on their side or upside down. I've never lost more than a micro-smear of any liquid, except for that gorgeous thick clear golden EJMix & Sour Diesel liquid on the left (Oh, my heart aches!) that I tossed, kit and caboodle, when approaching a border.
The little caps on the BUD 510 connectors are great. Leaking is due to inescapable physics, wear/hardening of the wicks, or occasional DOA defects - it's a complex subject. It's not that some designs will never leak.
@sethhobrin, you can get a Mini ProTank2 on e-bay ($10 shipped) and a couple Sapphire BUDs. Then gradually experiment. Mini Protank3s also go for $10. The eGo C-Twist is a good battery.
The 6th is a Mini ProTank 3 that I like best for the VG e-liquids I mix. The ProTank 3 uses a dual coil and for many reasons I prefer it (only) for e-liquids.
The Kangertechs use replaceable heads, the BUDs are disposable. The BUDs have small tanks and it's a breeze adding or removing liquids. 99% recovery is easy with an 18G needle. The commercial O-Pen-Vape liquids themselves can be mediocre, but their carts have all the pros and cons of BUDs.
Kangertechs work without much fiddling but in case of trouble it's harder to recover all the goods. The BUDs require dry pulls and frequent burping for best taste etc, but the end result is very good, so I'm fine with that. If used in "it should just work" mode the dry burned hits will disappoint. As soon as the taste gets a bit dry, pull the cap and the blue plug for a moment.
Not perfect, but all these are very usable. With 2 ohm coils, I set the voltage to 3.3 - 3.5 volts. All the liquid then simmers unburned and the vapor tastes good, though in truth no hot oil is great on the throat. A longer cooling pathway or water would help, but isn't too practical. More power, lower resistance, creates more vapor faster, but some of it burns where the wire glows, which reduces health benefits.
I usually carry the carts separate from the battery, on their side or upside down. I've never lost more than a micro-smear of any liquid, except for that gorgeous thick clear golden EJMix & Sour Diesel liquid on the left (Oh, my heart aches!) that I tossed, kit and caboodle, when approaching a border.
The little caps on the BUD 510 connectors are great. Leaking is due to inescapable physics, wear/hardening of the wicks, or occasional DOA defects - it's a complex subject. It's not that some designs will never leak.
@sethhobrin, you can get a Mini ProTank2 on e-bay ($10 shipped) and a couple Sapphire BUDs. Then gradually experiment. Mini Protank3s also go for $10. The eGo C-Twist is a good battery.
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fernand
Well-Known Member
@sethhobrin, there are countless other designs. Most of the bottom feeding clearos are potentially fine C-juice devices, because gravity helps as they pre-warm the thick liquid, so it's just thin enough to be sucked into the coil. It's a balancing act, and most of them can be MADE to work, and all of them can be LEFT to fail. Make sense?
E.g. the BUDs have such a small air space they need help. But IMHO right after venting, they deliver that greatest hit. If the blue tip snaps off, you can still keep removing the plug with your nail. Love conquers all.
I'm sure there are many others just as ... dank, if not more so. Few brave souls have explored them all, and the survivors have a mad grin on their faces. You'll find 'yer own personal happy vape, my son.
Shiver 'me timbers! Two good tokes of Pure Gold off'a that Protank2 mid-day does something interesting to the knarly ganglion atop m'e spinal cord. And it takes a moment to realize that the third toke was ... probably unnecessary
E.g. the BUDs have such a small air space they need help. But IMHO right after venting, they deliver that greatest hit. If the blue tip snaps off, you can still keep removing the plug with your nail. Love conquers all.
I'm sure there are many others just as ... dank, if not more so. Few brave souls have explored them all, and the survivors have a mad grin on their faces. You'll find 'yer own personal happy vape, my son.
Shiver 'me timbers! Two good tokes of Pure Gold off'a that Protank2 mid-day does something interesting to the knarly ganglion atop m'e spinal cord. And it takes a moment to realize that the third toke was ... probably unnecessary
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sethhobrin
Well-Known Member
Thanks to advice here I purchased a Kanger Aerotank Mini and a Kanger ProTank3 Mini and a few of the 1.5 OHM dual coil atomizer heads! I will report back on how stuff works once it all comes in and I mix my first batch of concentrate and EJMIX.
fernand
Well-Known Member
@sethhobrin best success! I see adding glycols as a necessary compromise. Always start with a minimum, just a couple drops and warm/stir thoroughly. Repeat until it's clear, even when cold. That signals it's fully dissolved. About 20-30% has worked for me. Not everybody loves that taste, but it seems non-toxic enough.
Liquid gold works well un-thinned. Waxes need EJMix. I'm going to try a thick oil un-thinned as soon as I get the extra Protanks I ordered. At $7-8 shipped they are a bargain.
The Aero tank mini i got has a worse design. The tank halves hold together on the strength of a threaded tube that's tap-welded in a crossbar. And mine came loose.
Liquid gold works well un-thinned. Waxes need EJMix. I'm going to try a thick oil un-thinned as soon as I get the extra Protanks I ordered. At $7-8 shipped they are a bargain.
The Aero tank mini i got has a worse design. The tank halves hold together on the strength of a threaded tube that's tap-welded in a crossbar. And mine came loose.
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rabblerouser
Combustion Fucker
I just wanted to chime in that i just had my first leak on the new version mini aerotank, however my atomizer head was really loose, so maybe that's why it leaked.
now, i think they don't recommend running the kangers too empty, i thought that could cause at least gurgling if not leaks, although i haven't had real problems yet. But i run it pretty empty to get the last of my oil, i don't have tons to keep topping it off. With regular e-liquid you generally have plenty and keep topping it off to keep things ideal, but i don't have that luxury with thc e-liquid.
now, i think they don't recommend running the kangers too empty, i thought that could cause at least gurgling if not leaks, although i haven't had real problems yet. But i run it pretty empty to get the last of my oil, i don't have tons to keep topping it off. With regular e-liquid you generally have plenty and keep topping it off to keep things ideal, but i don't have that luxury with thc e-liquid.
fernand
Well-Known Member
That "using all the precious liquid" issue is one reason I prefer the ProTank2. The Protank2 uses a single coil. So there's a smaller wick opening, and it's at the very bottom of the tank.
With the BUD it's possible to use or recover every last drop, as it feeds from a smaller tank through that vertical tube (which is why it needs a little help burping).
The Protank3 and others with dual coils (e.g. Aerotank Mini) have a bigger/higher opening with more wick to feed. That makes them more likely to gurgle when low, and waste liquid.
Since straight Propylene Glycol doesn't mix as well with oils, it's a good idea to have some EJMix on hand to use as a thinner. EJMix is Propylene Glycol plus a little different molecular weight glycols. Then, worst case, as you run low, you can add a drop or two of EJMix.
With the BUD it's possible to use or recover every last drop, as it feeds from a smaller tank through that vertical tube (which is why it needs a little help burping).
The Protank3 and others with dual coils (e.g. Aerotank Mini) have a bigger/higher opening with more wick to feed. That makes them more likely to gurgle when low, and waste liquid.
Since straight Propylene Glycol doesn't mix as well with oils, it's a good idea to have some EJMix on hand to use as a thinner. EJMix is Propylene Glycol plus a little different molecular weight glycols. Then, worst case, as you run low, you can add a drop or two of EJMix.
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sethhobrin
Well-Known Member
This question is for anyone that has used the protank 3 mini or aero mini atomizers. I just got my order and noticed that the replacement dual coil atmoizers I bought for the protank 3 mini have no wick sticking out of the atomizer but the 2 dual coil atomizes that came with the protank 3 mini have wick sticking out of the sides of the atomizers of a few cm. Why the difference? Why do the replacement atomizers have no wick sticking out and the OEM ones do?
EDIT: Found the answer to my own question. THe replacement coils are the new V2 model. Apparently they work better and gurgle less from what I read.
EDIT: Found the answer to my own question. THe replacement coils are the new V2 model. Apparently they work better and gurgle less from what I read.
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rabblerouser
Combustion Fucker
also there are bootleg kanger atomizers out there, i'm pretty sure the gotvapes ones are spurious.