BAKx - bake all kinds

[GoldenBud]

Mooch’s Bench Test Results: Samsung 50S - 25A 5000mAh 21700…a great performer but ran a little hot

Test Report Summary: At under 10A this is the best performing round cell we can buy. At 10A and 20A it slightly outperforms the Molicel P42A and at 30A they are about equal. The Samsung 50S does run hotter though and the P42A runs at a higher voltage at the start when at high power levels...

forum.esk8.news

it seems like the 21700 battery which Lamart offers, in the DNA selling page, the Samsung 50s, is also great, and performs about the same as the Molicel P42A.

A quote from the link above:
"
I recommend staying at 20A or lower though to reduce risk, increase performance (less voltage sag), and to increase the life of the cell.
"

The BAKx even at 70w doesn't need fully 20A, so it's not dangerous at all... (70w divided by 4.2v is 16.7A~, 70w divided by 3.6 is 19.44A~)
so it's fine...

even if it has a very low battery - 3.5v - it reaches 20A and not going above it..

As I said in this thread before, the BAKx excells also with a 60w limitation...or even with 50w, with a slow draw...so it'll not even reach even 17.A with 60w limitation setup....

 

[Fesob_31]

Samsung 50S is also great, but the price was almost 50% more than the P42A where I got mine.
Didn’t notice 50S is available at Lamart shop. Nice bundle.

 

[ValleyVapes]

Has the next drop been announced yet?

 

[GoldenBud]

Samsung 50S is also great, but the price was almost 50% more than the P42A where I got mine.
Didn’t notice 50S is available at Lamart shop. Nice bundle.

in the Thelema DNA selling page in Lamart BAKx's page 2 or 3, in the right side, you've got options to choose from

Has the next drop been announced yet?

not yet

 

[Alex3oe]

Those who are using the Thelema, what 21700 batteries are you using?

Lamart is sending the Thelema with a Samsung INR21700-50S

 

[zeus420]

So guys! i fucking tried every Method, 3 Pcs , 3 USB Cabels... nothing is working.
The profile is in both sections. new and already availiable coils. then i load it over to the DNA 250. i disconnect it from the PC and i search for the Profile in the Mod but it is not showing up.

That drives me crazy. is it that complicated? i dont think so

what am i doing wrong?

also it doesn't show up in the Profiles after i upload it to the DNA Mod. i dont get it. i made everthing the same like in the Manual and i'm not bad with PCs or such things. working with them a long time and also flashed Mods before and so on.

greeez

 

[GoldenBud]

So guys! i fucking tried every Method, 3 Pcs , 3 USB Cabels... nothing is working.
The profile is in both sections. new and already availiable coils. then i load it over to the DNA 250. i disconnect it from the PC and i search for the Profile in the Mod but it is not showing up.

Do you have a tubomyevic/arctic fox supported mod box? I'll guide you happily there, dunno DNA.

 

[passenger]

If you can, grab a wismec p228 and join the tubo firmware club

 

[GoldenBud]

Wismec PREDATOR 228 with Elabo Kit

Predator 228, designed by sinuous designs in USA, is powered by dual replaceable 18650 cells whose max output reaches 228W/50A. The application of plated USB ports contact makes it possible to realize 2A quick charge. And the separate battery power can be

myvaporus.com

 

[Hippie]

I'd backup what's on the box mod to the pc
And try going minimal with only 1 material and 1 profile set to show on the device

 

[GoldenBud]

Can you please add material SS316 and 0.00185 TCR and lock around 0.196 resistance? it may work... try from temp 380F or so

 

[gordontreeman]

So guys! i fucking tried every Method, 3 Pcs , 3 USB Cabels... nothing is working.
The profile is in both sections. new and already availiable coils. then i load it over to the DNA 250. i disconnect it from the PC and i search for the Profile in the Mod but it is not showing up.

That drives me crazy. is it that complicated? i dont think so

what am i doing wrong?

also it doesn't show up in the Profiles after i upload it to the DNA Mod. i dont get it. i made everthing the same like in the Manual and i'm not bad with PCs or such things. working with them a long time and also flashed Mods before and so on.

greeez

If you ask in the discord someone can probably help you out or make a video? I don’t think there is any reason to buy a new mod, unless you just want one—the dna mods are top notch to begin with. I also don’t think you need to jump into custom coil configs when lamart provides one.

I’m not sure what you are missing. You need to load the material from the csv as @Fesob_31’s screenshot hopefully made clear. Once you’ve got that loaded in you also need to make it available on the device, and then push your settings to the device from escribe. It seems like you’re missing one of steps two or three somehow.

 

[Shit Snacks]

So guys! i fucking tried every Method, 3 Pcs , 3 USB Cabels... nothing is working.
The profile is in both sections. new and already availiable coils. then i load it over to the DNA 250. i disconnect it from the PC and i search for the Profile in the Mod but it is not showing up.

That drives me crazy. is it that complicated? i dont think so

what am i doing wrong?

also it doesn't show up in the Profiles after i upload it to the DNA Mod. i dont get it. i made everthing the same like in the Manual and i'm not bad with PCs or such things. working with them a long time and also flashed Mods before and so on.

greeez

Just confirming this is all DNA 250 C (color) (regular non C does not have cruise feature so it may not be set up for these profiles)

 

[zeus420]

I'd backup what's on the box mod to the pc
And try going minimal with only 1 material and 1 profile set to show on the device

adding the Material to Escribe is no Problem. If i change the names of the Profiles it works when i load it up to the Mod and the Profile is there or Re-named.

But the "bakmaterials" never shows up on the Mod or in Profiles wheter on the Mod or in Escribe. Its only in the Materials Tabs

to load up the Lamart Theme was also no Problem. so i dont get what i'm doing wrong

greeez Zeus

Just confirming this is all DNA 250 C (color) (regular non C does not have cruise feature so it may not be set up for these profiles)

I have an DNA 250 Color. yes

@gordontreeman made all of this. several times. i'm not missing something i think

i could make a video so i can show you what i'm doing?! would this help?

has the BAK to be screwed on the Mod when uploading the bakmaterials??

greeez

 

[Hippie]

That is odd
Best I can think of is that the file got corrupted somewhere along the line or the names too long for the mod
I'd download the materials file again and rename one of them and start again, to check
You could try creating a new material file with a TCR of .00185 as @GoldenBud says and seeing if you can send a profile with that material selected to the mod. I wouldn't call it SS316 tho, I'd call it My TCR or something so you don't confuse it with the stock TFR files. And I dunno how much you're gonna need to adjust the resistance to make it work so I'd start with low temps and work your way up.
But if that will upload, the bakmaterials file should too

 

[gordontreeman]

adding the Material to Escribe is no Problem. If i change the names of the Profiles it works when i load it up to the Mod and the Profile is there or Re-named.

But the "bakmaterials" never shows up on the Mod or in Profiles wheter on the Mod or in Escribe. Its only in the Materials Tabs

to load up the Lamart Theme was also no Problem. so i dont get what i'm doing wrong

greeez Zeus


I have an DNA 250 Color. yes

@gordontreeman made all of this. several times. i'm not missing something i think

i could make a video so i can show you what i'm doing?! would this help?

has the BAK to be screwed on the Mod when uploading the bakmaterials??

greeez

Happened to be the case that lamart added dna 250c profiles and material files. Maybe they are not compatible across all dna models. https://shop.lamart.ch/index.php?route=product/category&path=85_97

It sounds like you know what you’re doing if you added the theme. Maybe give these a shot!

 

[n0tu2]

Hi Everyone,

Please be warned, this is going to be a long post! Have a few hits before you begin

(Part I)

I've been around for a while but don't post that often. Own many vapes not limited to BAKx, P80, TM1 (original from when it first came out), TM2, FW7, M22+V5+CUBs and many more, go VAS or go home!

Figured I'd post up my findings with BAKx tuning to help others as I've been messing with it for a bit and wanted to share. Being a nicotine vaper for over two decades I have acquired quite a few mods over the years including the infamous Predator that's been mentioned here, Gen3's, RX2/3s (worst for resistance), squonkers, etc. but not using DNA's since I moved away from drippers, temp control and building coils and sold them - wound up right back with plain old straight wattage tank vaping with an ANT chipset mod. The Predator does a decent job, but its fire response is not as fast as other mods with better chipsets.

I made this post mostly for mods that will work with TUBO or Arctic Fox but may give insight into DNA users who tinker as well I am trying to write this with as much explanation as I can as some people here have more knowledge with mods and others are just starting to delve into the world of mods because of the BAKx. It's still hard to dumb this all down to basic concepts, but hope it helps the community. It’s mainly information for DIY types – if you have Ralph pre-configure it for you on a mod then you have no need for this information.

For reference - these are the recommended TCR values for all different types of coil metals:

Nickel DH: "0704" [0.007036]
Ni200: "0600" [0.00600] (According to Steam-Engine.org)
Ni200: "0620" [0.00620] (According to @DJLsbVapes and other various sources)
Nifethal 70 (Alloy120): "0525" [0.00525]
NiFe30 (StealthVape): "0500" [0.00500]
Tungsten: "0450" [0.00450]
Nifethal 52 (Alloy52): "0404" [0.004036]
NiFe (Reactor Wire): "0400" [0.00400]
TitaniumGrade1: "0366" [0.00366] (According to Steam-Engine.org)
TitaniumGrade1: "0350" [0.00350] (According to the SX Mini Manual, @DJLsbVapes and other various sources)
TitaniumGrade2: "0353" [0.003525]
NiFe30 (Resistherm): "0320" [0.00320]
SS410: "0155" [0.00155]
SS430: "0138" [0.00138]
Invar 36 / Nilo 36 / Pernifer 36: "0112" [0.001116]
SS304: "0102" [0.001016] (According to Steam-Engine)
SS304: "0105" [0.00105] (According to @DJLsbVapes and other various sources)
SS316L: "0088" [0.000879] (According to Steam-Engine)
SS316L: "0092" [0.00092] (According to @DJLsbVapes and other various sources)
SS316: "0088" [0.00088] (According to Steam-Engine.org)
SS316: "0092" [0.000915] (According to @DJLsbVapes and other various sources)
SS317L: "0094" [0.00094] (According to Steam-Engine.org)
SS317L: "0088" [0.00088] (According to @DJLsbVapes and other various sources)
SS317: "0088" [0.000875] (According to @DJLsbVapes)

(Credit to e-cigarette forum - Ultimate TCR Thread)

TCR is the temperature co-efficient of resistance or change in resistance of a metal over TIME. The above TCR values are "safe" TCR values and take into consideration single or dual thin wire type coils/metal wire. BAKx is a long FLAT (SS316L?) coil so the 88-92 TCR listed SS range would be too low for it. TCR is only one part of the algorithm to calculate coil temperature. A small thin metal wire (e-cig/dab coils) will heat up or stay hot quicker than the thicker flat metal used in the BAKx so the actual TCR of the BAKx coil is for sure higher than 88-92. TCR is just one factor for the algorithm to try and calculate what temperature the coil is at. There is no true temp sensing method to do this unless you use some very sophisticated type equipment. Many devices (even non-mods) use this algorithm since it's been proven to be fairly accurate +/- 1 or 2 degrees F and cheap to implement, but never 100% accurate. If you wanted 100% accuracy/temperature precision the BAKx price would rise to a thousand dollars just for the temp sensing tech, lol. Same goes for any mod based vape like the P80 or TM/Firewood (similar type algorithm is on the main board’s chipset).

The lower the TCR number is set, then the mod will think it will take less energy to get to or maintain a specific temperature in a given type of coil metal (less aggressive). It is used in combination with the PID Algo settings and of course must be close to true. To throw more values into the mix, the internal glass chamber + stem + material's water content will also effect the temp inside the chamber. When you actively draw on the stem it also cools a bit inside the chamber so the Algo PID settings need to compensate and recover to the set temp using the algorithm and the mod settings. With that said, many things effect proper chamber temperature and we can get CLOSE

The way it works is that there is a given resistance to any metal type (in ohms) when power/current is sent through it. Some metals are preferred to others (that’s a no to kanthal – this metals resistance doesn’t change enough to be measured accurately with this tech). The resistance (measurable) value rises as the metal material warms from the electrical resistance going through it in turn creating heat. The amount of that rise/change in time is how the algorithm makes a very close educated guess at what the temperature of the metal/coil is actually at. It then decides to give more power or less based on Algo settings and TCR among others to maintain or get to the set temperature. It is never 100% accurate. Throw in the fact that people are using different mods; each may have a little variation in what their mod thinks the 'cold' resistance is for the current coil being used from start (cruise) to actively heating it up over a duration of time (300s). Even though your mod may calculate the initial resistance incorrectly the rest of the algorithm is most likely sound and will work as long as the other values considered are accurate. This is why it is stated to lock the ‘cold’ resistance to a certain arbitrary number (.22 less than mod detects) and then make adjustments to locked resistance up and down .02 from there if result is either too cold or too hot. The mod needs this initial cold (room temp) resistance value as a reference point to run the algorithm calculations and correctly compare to what the resistance is ‘at this point in time' after applying power to create heat. It's constantly calculating these values as it's being fired or cruising. Since the recommended TCR is 185 (too high) nobody can really use their true or close to true locked cold resistance. Although using TCR 185 makes it easier for Ralph to troubleshoot issues, it's just a 'general' starting point and dropping .22 from the mod's calculated cold resistance and going up or down .02 from there does work but let's try to get closer to true or what you like once you understand how it is all comes together to do proper temp control. There is a lot of argument on both of these theories and no one is probably 100% correct – this is just food for thought.

Arctic Fox allows for easier customization of these values, but the latest version does seem to have a little bug with Wismec mods in that when first turned on it always likes to lock the current resistance as the cold even though you have a lower resistance locked with the pad lock symbol in AF's settings. There is a way around it by going to the Edit menu (whatever clicks you assigned) and then it picks up your original locked resistance again for that session - annoying and I don't think it's being supported anymore

I have preferred the TUBO Firmware for the BAKx and since it is based on the same original sources as Arctic Fox the changes that I'm going to explain in TUBO firmware also apply to Arctic Fox (some options are named different in some places, or located in different menu’s, but it’s all there)

Continued next post...

 

[n0tu2]

(Part II)

The first thing is we need to know is what the cold resistance of your personal BAKx is according to your mod. Assuming the TUBO firmware installed - How do we do this? TUBO actually has an option to show live resistance all the time while in ready/main screen just like Arctic Fox. In order to activate this you need to change some of your ‘Clicks’ settings->

(Menu->Interface->Clicks)

I choose to assign 3 clicks to 'Edit' overriding 'Warmup' to Cruise. No worries, you can always change it back. I noticed on the Predator and other mods there is a bug in 'Warmup' to Cruise anyway - it seems to over aggressively heat, drops to Cruise and then half-way through Cruise it drops much lower -35+/- F less from the original set temp -- I reported it to Ralph but haven't heard back. Cruise and Tstep work fine though.

Assuming you set 3 Clicks to Edit (above) we need to activate the live resistance display line in TUBO firmware. Click 3 times to enter Edit mode from main screen and the TUBO logo should be flashing. Then the click '-' button 4 times to navigate to the TEMP line (it should be blinking when selected) Click '+' to cycle through this lines possible choices until you see RES appear with a .xxx ohm value Example: [RES .221{o}]. Once RES is being displayed click Fire button to get out of Edit back to ready/main screen. Now your mod will be constantly showing you what it thinks the live resistance of the coil is at all times on that RES line you activated (except when you click Fire or 2 clicks for Cruise). This RES line number will be fluctuating and that's normal.

Now let your mod and BAKx rest in your room for at least 30-40 minutes (the longer the better) to cool with the mod OFF. After 30-40 or more mins, turn the mod on. Immediately after clicking 5x to turn on mod start watching the RES display line as it fluctuates with initial cold readings and remember where it bounces around between when COLD/unfired. My BAKx resistance is a little bit higher then what I've seen on the forum and I've told Ralph but it is still 100% fine. I've tested it cold on many accurate mods and even a stand-alone coil building tester. My BAKx reports between .259 - .262 cold and with this higher resistance I cannot use such suggested low resistances locked as it affects the upper end of the algorithm calculations. This causes loss of accuracy at higher temps and also as temps rise in general. I prefer to be as close to actual mod sensed resistance/true temp as I can since I use it mostly native. I settled on .260 locked - right in the middle of the initial cold bounce the RES display line was reporting. This resistance number at cold is unique to your BAKx due to build variations and the mod you are using. Once you have your magic cold resistance number, time to lock it in! How?

(Menu->Coils->Manage->TUBO)

TUBO should be selected. Hit fire button and you will be able to set this number to your magic cold resistance number with +/- and make sure the lock symbol is there. Fiddling with the ‘+/-‘ buttons will flip it to locked if it is showing the ohm symbol instead of the tiny pad lock symbol. You want to see that pad lock symbol next to your magic number!

Now we need to set the true TCR of the BAKx coil. After a lot of testing I settled on 105-112 TCR range as being True/Safe zone for this coil. You can always push it a little lower or higher. TCR 185 is definitely way too high for any mod without aggressively lowering the true cold resistance to compensate. TUBO firmware has 3 settings for TCR: M1, M2, and M3. M1 is force locked to TCR 185 by firmware. M2 and M3 are free for you to play with. How do you fill in a new TCR in M2 and M3?

(Menu->Coils->TUBO Set)

Use ‘+’ to scroll to M2 and M3 and Fire to select the one you want to edit with ‘+/-‘ and then again Fire to set. As I said M1 cannot be changed, so set M2 to 105 and M3 to 112 as a starting/test point. You can always come back here and change them to a little more or a little less but you can quickly set the mod to use M2 or M3 TCR values from the main screen with the Edit operation you assigned (3 clicks).

I prefer the 112M3 TCR but still playing around with it. Now, how to tell TUBO firmware to use what you set in TCR M2 or M3?

By default TUBO is using 185M1. From the main screen go to Edit mode (3 clicks) TUBO will be flashing and right next to it you should see 185M1 (mod is using TCR 185) Click the '-' button once to get the 185M1 blinking, then '+' to cycle/change it to 105M2 (105 TCR) or 112M3 (112 TCR) and click Fire to set/exit <M2 and M3 are our testing TCR settings> I’ve been sticking with 112M3.

Now the Algo PID settings:

(Menu->Vaping->Algo)

Make sure Algo is set to PID. The default recommended values seem to be acceptable and give rise to full use of wattage to get to initial set temp:

[P 2000, I 300, D 10] - (P)roportional, (I)ntegral, (D)erivative

These settings tell the mod when to hit the gas to heat (P) and when to hit the brakes (I) when temp is met. Not sure why to use D and mostly always set to 0, but I’ve been using Algo settings as recommended D 10 above.

If you wanted a slower warm up (even if you have it set to 70w or more) the P and I are what control this – as it’s the proportional amount of available power/watts. 2000 is going full for as long as it can until it approaches temp, then I slows it down, and D is for material or use purpose corrections. A slower warm up can be achieved with: P 580, I 70, D 2 – this would do a nice slow warm up to temp, more like a mighty with dead batteries (zzz 1-2mins) no matter what you set your wattage to it will use a much less (P)roportional% of it. Example: If you set 70w power and use these lower Algo settings, it will never use 70w, it may use 45w or less to warm up to your set temp. Stick with 2000/300/10 for now unless you get daring as it will change your experience.

If you got this far and didn't fall off the cliff you now have 112 TCR set with your true mod detected cold resistance locked and recommended Algo settings! Take your time to learn how to navigate the TUBO Menu’s during the process.

360F/182.2C should give you a nice terpy minimal vapor 1st hit after 30-40 second soak, and then additional hits will be nice and smooth with more vapor (10 second draws MTL). 380F/401F/410F/428F will be hotter and produce much more vapor. Using natively at higher temps may become uncomfortable but at least temp is accurate I prefer 360F-380F native (this is like a 5 to 6 on TM2). The longer you let it soak before the first hit will create more vapor and the recommendation to NEVER leave your stem in chamber while not being actively draw upon (lowering the chamber temp) STANDS. This may lead to combustion as the chamber continues to warm even though the temp @coil is stable (chamber is a small closed space) and exposed outside coils cool via cuts in the BAKx enclosure so temp could rise slowly up into combustion territory if you leave it in too long unattended regardless of what settings you settle on and especially if you like to ride the higher temps. I wouldn’t recommend going past 410F even though you can. Draw often or eject the stem at high temps – If I was to go after 428F I would lower TCR to 105 and maybe even back off the locked resistance by -.01 or .02 before I even tried to see the result without material as I would expect combustion if you aren’t quick with the draw and eject - YMMV.

You can tweak now by raising or lowering the M2 or M3 TCR setting by +1 or +2 / -1 or -2 to effect the aggressive heat up of the coil OR leave it at 112M3 and lower or raise your set true cold resistance with the old method +/- .02 at a time (at least it's not < .22+ out of sync from mod detected resistance this way)

FYI tested my temps with a k-type bead sensor on a multi-meter. I've tested inside chamber temps and temps from outside through the left/right and top center hole of the BAKx enclosure for actual coil temp. The top hole actually allows access between the coil wraps and the bead sensor can touch exterior of inside glass through the top hole. This type of test is a little more accurate than kitchen thermometers but again never 100% as it also relies on resistance of k-type metal wire and using a similar algorithm on the multi-meter. When testing with the multi-meter I can see temps rise real-time just as fast as front of mod display shows the temps rising. I see instant response on the meter to match it - no lag like a kitchen thermometer.

TL/DR? TCR 105-112 - lock in average of mod read live resistance at cold – Algo P 2000, I 300, D 10. Enjoy.

 

[GoldenBud]

@n0tu2 you're saying "
TL/DR? TCR 105-112 - lock in average of mod read live resistance at cold – Algo P 2000, I 300, D 10. Enjoy.
"

but, the TCR is also a matter of how much the coil weighs, isn't it? and how much volume he's got? and the BAK's coil is bigger than the average SS316L coil....
I don't see a reason why the BAKx needs TCR 185 in the Wisemc Predator, or any other tubomyevic mod, and in DNA it needs 105-112.
I'd use TCR 0.00185 in DNA too.. dunno..

 

[zeus420]

Happened to be the case that lamart added dna 250c profiles and material files. Maybe they are not compatible across all dna models. https://shop.lamart.ch/index.php?route=product/category&path=85_97

It sounds like you know what you’re doing if you added the theme. Maybe give these a shot!

oooh nice! these files must be new
gonna test them out today when i'm at home.

Really stoked to come home and maybe the BAK is working properly tonight

greez

 

[gordontreeman]

oooh nice! these files must be new
gonna test them out today when i'm at home.

Really stoked to come home and maybe the BAK is working properly tonight

greez

Best of luck friend! If you are familiar with discord at all—it’s just a chat app—and this doesn’t pan out you may get quicker responses asking in the Lamart discord server than here on fc. The maker is active in there and he or other users are usually happy to help folks get a mod set up. I don’t think there is any reason I can’t post the discord link publicly, but just in case if you pm me I am happy to share it. Hope you get it going and can enjoy it though! It has been an absolute joy to use so far!

 

[Grass Yes]

I don’t think there is any reason I can’t post the discord link publicly, but just in case if you pm me I am happy to share it.

Join the lamart Discord Server!

Check out the lamart community on Discord - hang out with 780 other members and enjoy free voice and text chat.

discord.com

 

[n0tu2]

@n0tu2 you're saying "
TL/DR? TCR 105-112 - lock in average of mod read live resistance at cold – Algo P 2000, I 300, D 10. Enjoy.
"

but, the TCR is also a matter of how much the coil weighs, isn't it? and how much volume he's got? and the BAK's coil is bigger than the average SS316L coil....
I don't see a reason why the BAKx needs TCR 185 in the Wisemc Predator, or any other tubomyevic mod, and in DNA it needs 105-112.
I'd use TCR 0.00185 in DNA too.. dunno..

Hi GB,

I don't know but common sense says that the thicker more mass the metal is it would need more power applied to get it to heat up. I know metal has to be responsive to electrical resistance and the purity of it will make the resistance lower and work better with TCR. It may have similar properties with its smaller brothers of the same metal type no matter its mass. The coil in the BAKx is actually pretty quick to respond and even at low watts of 15 or 30 it heats up. You wouldn't want to touch it while applying 20 watts for a short period.. expect a burn.

The 185 TCR setting seems to be force set to M1 and used in all Lamart products that use TUBO firmware. The indivdual device coils resistance are tuned down to match this common TCR setting. This works with low ohm small coils because resistance top end can not be hit. Some higher ohm coils may already be close to top out at 3.15 or 3.20 ohms and can't be accurate any further.. no more detection points for the algorithm. If you go higher by continuing to heat it the mod will kick you out of temp control in frustration. TCR change of only 2 in either direction can be a 4-8-10 or more degree difference depending on its mass as well, so finding the true TCR is always best. Remember it's over time so it may startup and get to set temp perfectly but after cruising for 150-200 seconds it could drift way up or down over that time if the TCR isn't close to what it should be for the coil.

Another thing I noticed is this coil has hot spots just like a regular coil. Wrap #1 of the coil may be much hotter then wrap#3 (going around the glass tube) or vice versa. The depth you insert a stem with basket could be the difference between combustion or not.. even at low temps. You would be surprised at how quick a cherry will form when power is initially applied at cold and mod is using full 70w to ramp up. If your basket or material happens to be close to a hot spot in just a few seconds poof we have a problem. If anyone is experiencing this behavior try pushing the stem in just a tad deeper through the donut to get away from a hot spot or start cruising without the stem in for 20 seconds and then put the stem in wait 5 or 10 seconds and start your draws. I try to keep the basket lined up to the center of the chamber close to the middle hole. You can measure the depth by lining up the basket in stem with the hole on the outside of the BAKx. Hold the donut stem holder off the magnets and just resting next the outside of the BAKx to get an idea where the load is going to be when inserted inside the chamber.

To remedy hot spots as an old school coil builder you glow the coil and score it/scrape it while it's glowing to get the rid of hotter areas. I can't imagine how much power would need to be applied to get this coil to glow red hot. It would have to be done without the inside glass chamber because it may melt the glass, lol.

Some tips for those who are dealing with combustion.. use a less aggressive Algo PID setting to have a slower ramp up as I mentioned in previous post. Use medium to course grind and never tamp! Even I foolishly tried to tamp some down into the basket leading to an Ahh Fuck moment during draw Sometimes when scooping in some material it winds up not going into the basket and builds up on top of it. This is where force of habit I tamped it down into the basket, oops. Either do little finger pinches and manually load the stem or use a stir stick to break the clog so the material falls into the basket naturally while you stir it in just a few times. It needs to be loose and fluffy in the stem. You also could reverse the basket to have the material sitting on the flat bottom. This works with the WPA stems. It's not practical in the native stem because its difficult to remove.. you can't poke the screen out from other side (balls in the way). Better yet, don't use a basket and load big chunks

Luckily it's very easy to clean after combustion: dump, remove basket, stem and basket into ISO soak. Then I take a 1x1 alcohol pad and wrap it around tweezers so no metal exposed and wipe the inner chamber all around. Then a quick burnoff at 430F without stem or stem holder connected.. you see a quick poof of smoke as the alcohol burns off from the inner chamber.. all good as new.

 

[Shit Snacks]

Well I am having some amazing bowls and the settings were pretty simple for me, I just adapted to it, since there are just so many variables I tried to limit some I can control

 

[hoyo77]

Well I am having some amazing bowls and the settings were pretty simple for me, I just adapted to it, since there are just so many variables I tried to limit some I can control

I pretty much have been at the base settings right out the box. The bowls are quite tasty and rather intense if i do some heat soaking. I am thinking about dropping the temps to around 185 - 190 on the cruise mode.
I did have one issue with the Bakx out of the box, i noticed the glass heater was chipped. It works fine but it was chipped. I took a pic and emailed Funky and he said he would replace he unit at next drop. Thats why i will always be a customer for life, i will deal with the hassles of the drops, his products are amazing and his customer service is even better.