Hey Mister @OF now that I got your attention, there was something I also wanted to address with you. You might have over 10k posts, meaning you are very talkative, but at the same time you admitted (post #5251) that you don't even own an Ascent and borrowed @nigel's device
So with all due respect (and please, please, don't take this as a personal attack) I need to challenge your temperature-drop test results, as it is clearly not what I'm experiencing with my 2AE1 device. It might be down to a difference with @nigel's device (1AA1 iirc) or maybe with the kind of draw you used for your test, but I'm nowhere seeing the 100°F drop figure you keep reporting.
If you read the "Bud Toaster" thread (http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/the-bud-toaster-currently-model-14-version-3.826/) you will see that @Hippie Dickie managed to get around 1°F set-temperature locking with a "simple" PID controller (I use quotes here as I don't want to diminish the excellent work he did, but the man admitted it himself: a PID controller is no rocket science) Ok he's using way stronger LiFe batteries and can draw more amps than we have at disposal with the Ascent, but still.
In the LSV thread, they reported a maximum of 50°F drop on the device. Again it's hard to compare because they got a very large ceramic heating element in comparison, but this figure was reported when doing huge bong rips, and the LSV has strictly no PID temp control.
So your 100°F figure gives the impression the Ascent has no active temperature control at all! But that's not what I'm seeing here: do I have to wait between draws? Yes for sure, but 5 seconds is enough here, nowhere like the 30 seconds *minimum* you said in your previous post. In fact, it's easy to test: set the Ascent to any temperature, wait 5 minutes for radiation heating to start taking place (when the bottom of the device becomes hot to the touch, it's really pumping more) then power off the bowl (option+minus buttons) and note the temperature reported by the sensor. Then draw as you would and note the reported temperature at the end. Here with my drawing technic, I only see max 4°C drop on average, and that is *without* active temperature control. Meaning when the bowl is on, the drop is even lower because the chip is trying to compensate.
But I know that you will answer that the sensor temperature is not the same as the herb material temperature inside the bowl, yet there must be a strong correlation though don't you think? When you did your test, were the 4 bowl holes completely obstructed by plant material? How much did you pack the material? (or maybe you did an empty bowl test? I don't recall the exact details sorry) Also you glass flowers folk don't seem to be packing really hard, whereas when I say I make a "puck" I really mean it, a flat hard disc! So there really must be a difference, maybe the 2Axx series were improved and had their PID tuned better?
Just to add my $0.02 you cannot make the correlation that the temperature reading on the screen accurately reflects the change in temperature as you draw after you turn off the heater.
Yes, true the thermistor is not embedded into the herb, but it's really installed on the outside of the oven. The temperature measured by the thermistor (and the one reported on the screen when the heater is off) is actually the outside of the oven. True, the temperature will fall as you extract the heat from the oven, but you cannot trust this temperature readout. By reducing the temperature in the oven itself, it will take several seconds for the temperature to bleed through to the other side of the oven.
Sure it may be a thin ceramic glazed oven, but heat transfer does take some time to adjust. Believe me, on my 3D printers, my thermistor on my heated print surface will register 110C, but in reality, the glass surface on top of the thermistor takes several minutes longer to reach that temperature.
I too have doubts as to how fast the load temperature drops by 100F and believe those results would only be seen by those who are drawing so hard they cannot produce any vapor clouds! I too only wait 5-10 seconds before I start drawing again, and have no problems producing vapor after a short pause, but I also have regulated my technique to ensure I draw as slow as possible.