OF
Well-Known Member
Well then perhaps arizer has made alterations which allow the heating element to draw less power...
Could be, but IMO doubtful. Faster heat up should mean more power, not less. Unless they radically improved insulation and there was a lot of loss there to recover (which I doubt) I suspect we're looking at the same power level when on (basically all the rest of the system is set up to supply?).
I have a fluke multimeter. I'm off tomorrow I'll take it apart and check it out.
Great! All you need to do is probe the points labelled H+/H- on the PCB directly under the heating element while it is heating up.
Cool. But I think measuring the voltage on the heater isn't going to tell us anything new. Won't it still be full battery voltage? We need current. Best way to do that I found was to pull the male pin from the battery connector (Solo side) by depressing the latch on the side. Stick a piece of wire in the female side and put the current meter between it and the pulled pin. Look for 2.5 Amps or so cold, rapidly dropping to 2 or so (when the heat's on, of course).
These are very interesting changes and at first glance seem great. Time will tell.
That been said, in a month or two, I may be getting another unit myself....
Follow after me, '.....I don't need another Solo......I don't need another Solo......I don't need.....
It's working so far, but the night is young. Fun stuff.
OF