I turned it on thinking I'd need to give it some burn...
For your health hazard comment, would the alcohol not be able to corrode or even burn the wiring with heat which you'd activate and inhale per session?
Already turned the unit on... So yeah I missed the ball there.I guess we've established it's not a good idea to start with since ISO drains into the works where you have no control. Here it can do thinks like attack the adhesive on the Kapton tape and battery pack. And the electronic components that are generally just fine with water (it's common practice to wash assembled PCBs in soap and water), but not with solvents like ISO.
I would not turn it on before it's completely dry, but we seem to have missed that one too? I'd dry it out (a few days) and cautiously try it out......count myself lucky and not do it again?
Good luck with it, it's s tough solid unit and all but solvents are to be used very cautiously and never in 'flood' levels.
OF
I had mine for more than 5 years and it never let's me down?Already turned the unit on... So yeah I missed the ball there.
With that said, should I just replace my unit
With that said, should I just replace my unit
In your position, I probably would use it. If I didn't think it was safe enough to use personally, I wouldn't want to sell it (even under those conditions since that caution would not be sure to get to the next buyer?).
I'd just be sure to never do it again......not that I see an advantage to doing it in the first place. Washing contamination down into the works (as opposed to removing it) seems a bad plan all around.
If you're feeling rich (or paranoid), replace it and scrap this one, otherwise I'd use it.
Your call.
OF
I wouldn't sell it as if it's brand new, would make sure the buyer knows the situation before hand! Lying a bout this stuff would be unethical...
I wouldn't sell it as if it's brand new, would make sure the buyer knows the situation before hand! Lying a bout this stuff would be unethical...
@lookhigh not free though pm me and let's make a deal!
Your call, but like I said if I had health concerns using it, I would not sell it even with that condition understood. There is no guarantee that the buyer won't resell it right away and make a quick buck or two off your discounted price by not including the warning? There's a lot of dishonest folks in the world, some might say plenty, some too many.
If it was not a (potentially hidden) health issue I'm with you. Defective gear 'as is' is fine by me absent health (and legal.....like it's stolen or already claimed S/N under warranty and so on) I think falls into the 'buyer beware' category?
Best plan is to use/enjoy it if you deem it safe.....which is likely what I'd do.
OF
What are you concerned about?
posted this a couple weeks ago. qc sticker fell offAre you thinking counterfeit? If so show us a picture of the bottom and the oven.
Im not sure, did Arizer change the boards? @OF calling the man OF knowledge.
The copper color is normal on some.
Unusually bright LEDs is a giveaway counterfeit.
No, they did not, they eliminated the 'header board' under the oven and changed the wring to eliminate the connectors (now solders directly to the main PCB) so we can no longer change oven assemblies. This happened about the same time as 'use while charging' IIRC. It's the new normal, for better or worse.
You can still see the slots where the header board sat, retained by self tapping screws in the two bosses now empty that support the slots.
Extreme caution is advised with the leads, in fact I recommend never detaching the oven (there's no service you can do, and you can easily kill the oven by breaking any of the four wires (the smaller temperature sensors being more popular). These are solid wires, so they don't flex very well compared to normal (stranded) wires. As Murphy would have it, wiggling the leads will tend to break them up very close to the cement were repair is impossible.
I agree, for now, bright LEDs are a giveaway WRT being counterfeit. But that's not the same as 'dimmer LEDs means it's genuine', and I think we can count on the counterfeiters to get wise to this and shift (it can easily be done in software in fact.....). The only sure plan is to 'know your dealer'. Hard to go wrong with PIU of PV and if there's ever a problem I don't know of anyone better than Randy at PIU to have covering your.
OF
the wiring to my oven looks pretty weak. but also the discoloration on the bottom makes me think this isn't safe to use anymore.
Yes, you can very easily break them, trust me on this.....the voice of experience and I fancy myself with 'above average' skills in the area. A less experienced guy could no doubt repeat it with no trouble at all. I advise staying away, there's nothing you can do to by way of service.....even if you had the parts. I was able to repair mine since the break was at the header board. It was never flexed really, just the unplugging broke the soldered connection loose.
I would not be worried about discoloration, it's probably normal (but I'm not opening up any of mine to check.....). But it remains your call. Mess around a bit too much and it may quickly become academic if a lead breaks?
OF
I had CADILLAC WHEELS (urethane Clear) 71' I think?I got water in mine, (you know how), and it's still fine.
Picked up my 2nd Solo today, 'nother couple hrs of charging and it will be ready.
One thing I appreciate about @ataxian is that he was a surfer. I grew up in the middle of the prairies a thousand miles from the ocean but instead of Car Toons I used to buy Surf Toons, and in '67 when there was an ad in Canadian Boy (Scouts magazine) from the Fox Manufacturing Company in Ontario (no way it's the same one) offering a skateboard with rubber trucks, composite wheels and good bearings for $3.50 I was in there like a dirty shirt.