Hello,
I am a newbie here, but Arizer Solo have some time. Unfortunately, it happened to me that the bottom plastic is damaged. I need to get this part even quietly partially damaged. Already have devised a method for repairing. I made replacement metal bottom on CNC that fits perfectly, but my damaged part is unusable. Anybody got some damage this great device?
Unfortunately you've got a serious problem, one many of us have faced I'm sure. The 'back two' screws are not well supported, mine started there, but even the front are frail. This part was never intended to take much stress I think. Normally it only has to hold the insert up against gravity with friction helping.
The problem is that piece makes the bottom, front panel and most of the internal support. It's the backbone of the unit basically. Replacing it requires complete (and I mean complete) disassembly. More over, I seriously doubt Solo will sell you another as it carries the
serial number.....even if they offered normal service spares (like the seal around the stem), which they don't appear to.
I see (and in my case, saw) two possible routes. If you have access to the machine tools (it seems you have) you can make a bottom cap with a hole for venting and another for charging with four holes to match the broken plate and use longer screws to secure it below the broken piece. A clamp plate if you will.
Or you can get some "plastic repair epoxy" and carefully rebuild the broken tabs as I did. This is what I used, pretty amazing stuff, bonds well to most plastics (including this one it seems) and has considerable strength. None of my repairs has failed. You have to work fast with this stuff (a few minutes 'pot time') but it sets fast and hard. It's easy to file at the 10 minute or so point. I used 'Scotch Tape' to confine the glue, poking it in well with a toothpick.
http://www.devcon.com/products/products.cfm?family=Plastic Welder™
http://www.tapplastics.com/product/repair_products/adhesives_glues_sealants/plastic_welder/278
Good luck with it.
***
or one of these...mine looks a lil different (slimmer) but ive even plugged my laptop, iphone/ipad charger, my old DB vape, livescribe pen, etc. into it on long trips (my apple cord charger is regularly plugged into this 24/7)...
While useful, I'm not sure how it relates to my suggestion. This is another place to plug a PA into, right? Not a PA to plug into something.
If the goal is to charge in you car, no supply or adapter except a common 'car cord' (a few bucks) and the $1.50 adapter above will work 'better' (cheaper and more efficiently) I think. If the goal is a PA in the car I think other solutions (a down regulator) are better as I said in a prior post on the matter.
For instance, I think this four dollar one will do the job:
https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_2158127_-1
I haven't tried it, since I already own three such cords that came with various chargers I own that use the common format of a '12 Volt Wall Wort' feeding the charger unit. Basically what Solo sells (with the correct connector so no adapter is needed). Using this will probably double your efficiency (longer car battery life) since you won't be converting 12 VDC to 110 VAC to 12 VDC loosing maybe 20% or more with each change?
Perhaps I'm missing something here?
Excellent. Good luck with it. I've somehow misplaced the one I got (all I can find is it's 9VDC brother that doesn't cut it since it's too high a voltage). But it worked fine before I started using other schemes for PA mode and lost track of the sucker. Currently I'm using a 12 Volt supply feeding a regulator with a switch on it to change between charge and PA mode....only one unit for both functions. But that's not something you can order and plug together.....yet......I hope Pipes has his ears on for this one, I smell a useful gadget.
OF