Arizer Solo

[OF]

I'd also be willing to measure myself if someone linked me to whatever tools are required. @OF

This one should work fine. I've had one for five years Amazon claims. I'm not sure if it's the one I loaned out or the one I can't find (the other is similar, single channel). This one even comes with two probes. Be advised, not all do degrees F.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0084JQL1Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here it is, in use in a similar project with Ascent (I cut the cable and installed a couple of (correct for the type) connectors so I could open and load easily. Pretty close to the 400F dialed up (after heat soak):

This is the sensor in place, IIRC it used thin (.003? .005?) wires. I removed all insulation from one and insulated the other with thin PTFE tube to limit heat sinking. If you put the sensor tip near the cup, pack it with ABV or something and let it soak until it's stable you should be OK with the supplied sensors.

Good luck, be interested in what you find (as I'm sure many are), please let us know?

OF

Edit:

FWIW, I did this test on Solo 'back when' and found nothing worth noting (or I'd have said something......). I was confirming the 5C/9F per step trying to figure out power consumption ATT.

OF

 

[TheWhisper]

This one should work fine. I've had one for five years Amazon claims. I'm not sure if it's the one I loaned out or the one I can't find (the other is similar, single channel). This one even comes with two probes. Be advised, not all do degrees F.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0084JQL1Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here it is, in use in a similar project with Ascent (I cut the cable and installed a couple of (correct for the type) connectors so I could open and load easily. Pretty close to the 400F dialed up (after heat soak):

This is the sensor in place, IIRC it used thin (.003? .005?) wires. I removed all insulation from one and insulated the other with thin PTFE tube to limit heat sinking. If you put the sensor tip near the cup, pack it with ABV or something and let it soak until it's stable you should be OK with the supplied sensors.

Good luck, be interested in what you find (as I'm sure many are), please let us know?

OF

Edit:

FWIW, I did this test on Solo 'back when' and found nothing worth noting (or I'd have said something......). I was confirming the 5C/9F per step trying to figure out power consumption ATT.

OF

Thanks. Quick question — how do you feel about infrared vs contact thermometers?

 

[OF]

Thanks. Quick question — how do you feel about infrared vs contact thermometers?

IR Pyrometers (the full name) are OK if (and that's a big if....) you have the right emissivity constant to feed it. Cheap units use a default (.95 IIRC) but as you can see it varies widely with material and finish:
https://www.thermoworks.com/emissivity_table
http://www.scigiene.com/pdfs/428_InfraredThermometerEmissivitytablesrev.pdf

This means, for instance, problems with clean/dirty cups? Understand, change that number five percent and the indicated temperature changes five percent........ Basically they're light meters (just sensitive to different 'color' of light), they estimate temperature by how bright it glows against how bright that material (e value) is expected to glow relative to the "Black Body Radiation" reference. OK for relative measure but if you need an accurate number, Thermocouples are the way to go IMO. Easy to be withing one percent if you set it up right.

Also is a field of view issue. It can work OK, I have a spot reading one (.1 inch half an inch or so away with two laser beams that cross at the magic spot. Once the right e value is put in it gives excellent spot reading on electronic components even close together.

OF

 

[TheWhisper]

IR Pyrometers (the full name) are OK if (and that's a big if....) you have the right emissivity constant to feed it. Cheap units use a default (.95 IIRC) but as you can see it varies widely with material and finish:
https://www.thermoworks.com/emissivity_table
http://www.scigiene.com/pdfs/428_InfraredThermometerEmissivitytablesrev.pdf

This means, for instance, problems with clean/dirty cups? Understand, change that number five percent and the indicated temperature changes five percent........ Basically they're light meters (just sensitive to different 'color' of light), they estimate temperature by how bright it glows against how bright that material (e value) is expected to glow relative to the "Black Body Radiation" reference. OK for relative measure but if you need an accurate number, Thermocouples are the way to go IMO. Easy to be withing one percent if you set it up right.

Also is a field of view issue. It can work OK, I have a spot reading one (.1 inch half an inch or so away with two laser beams that cross at the magic spot. Once the right e value is put in it gives excellent spot reading on electronic components even close together.

OF

I ordered an IR one with variable emissivity settings. This should be easy enough to set to work with the Solo, as the oven is just stainless steel, no?

 

[OF]

as the oven is just stainless steel, no?

No, it's not. Finish counts big time as I said above, and we know the color is not 'right' for SS........ And that still leaves FOV issues.....

Good luck.

OF

 

[TheWhisper]

No, it's not. Finish counts big time as I said above, and we know the color is not 'right' for SS........ And that still leaves FOV issues.....

Good luck.

OF

Yeesh, maybe I'll get both and compare

 

[OF]

Yeesh, maybe I'll get both and compare

You could use the T/C to calibrate the Pyrometer (change e values until they agree). In a disagreement IMO the T/C trumps, one of the reasons they're preferred in the related industries. IR has coupling and emissivity issues.

My advice remains use T/Cs if you can.

Good luck.

OF

 

[Buzzbomb Almighty]

I pointed my IR laser thermometer into a Solo a few times this morning; no useful data gathered but it satisfied my urge for symbolic participation.

 

[OF]

I pointed my IR laser thermometer into a Solo a few times this morning; no useful data gathered but it satisfied my urge for symbolic participation.

That's the spirit! Full points IMO. If the data had been there.......

OF

 

[HurlockH]

My stems have got pretty loose and since I needed to pay a bill at home depot I picked up these while I was there;
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Partsma...-in-I-D-Rubber-O-Ring-6-Pack-58270B/206842757

Are they acceptable? It's the only one they had in that specific size, will these somehow kill me via poisoning or should it be just fine? I know that amazon has that size in silicon specifically but these are less than half the price. The way I figure it is that since the ring is far from airflow and the bud, so as long as it's not melting or releasing any smell things should be alright.

 

[OF]

Are they acceptable? It's the only one they had in that specific size, will these somehow kill me via poisoning or should it be just fine? I know that amazon has that size in silicon specifically but these are less than half the price. The way I figure it is that since the ring is far from airflow and the bud, so as long as it's not melting or releasing any smell things should be alright.

No, IMO, not worth the risk. There is potentially way way over the temperature range of buna or even viton rings. You almost certainly have the former (it's cheaper.....). Fine for water, even hot water in some cases, but can decompose at the temperatures we deal with. That stem gets way too hot to touch, right?

Size is right.

Are you in the US? If so PM me and I'll send you a couple of the proven rings (assuming I can find them....). Don't risk it with normal hardware store stuff you don't know the ratings on.

Free advice, and free rings if you PM me and dump the cheap junk?

OF

 

[HurlockH]

snip

Alright then, I'll shelve these and order some proper silicon rings from amazon, by the time I'm off my tolerance break they'll probably have arrived. I appreciate the offer, really, but I'm not one for giving out my address without a really good reason. Thanks for the help.

Edit: This should work then? https://www.amazon.com/113-Silicone...=1518055348&sr=8-9&keywords=silicon+oring+3/4

 

[Buzzbomb Almighty]

Alright then, I'll shelve these and order some proper silicon rings from amazon, by the time I'm off my tolerance break they'll probably have arrived. I appreciate the offer, really, but I'm not one for giving out my address without a really good reason. Thanks for the help.

Edit: This should work then? https://www.amazon.com/113-Silicone-Ring-Durometer-Width/dp/B000FMYQSU/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1518055348&sr=8-9&keywords=silicon+oring+3/4

Good plan, nobody wants pot that tastes like burning sneakers. I don't put O-rings in my solo, but occasionally when using a dry stem I'll have one on the outside of the stem.

 

[JCharles]

I've collected several orange o rings from my @PlanetVape PVHES orders. I always appreciated them tossing a ring in there.

 

[Buzzbomb Almighty]

After quite some time using Solos I've had to fly out to help in a family emergency and am separated from my vapes! Normally I only smoke rarely when I'm out, but now it's going to be a week of joints (poor baby, I hear), and not frequent enough as there is no dope room in the hospital.

 

[Dr. Soxhlet]

I have both the Solo and Solo II models. There are so many improvements to the Solo II that I know that virtually all the design deficiencies have been addressed. I got to thinking: Is there anything the old model does better than the Solo II?

If you go way back the very first Solos could run directly off of house current with outgoing through the battery of course. Up north, I have used Solo for a handwarmer; but the outside of the Solo II does not get warm enough. Safer if you use it in bed and fall asleep, I actually melted a rayon pillowcase with the Solo once. The Solo works to give a little bit of light. Although the SoloII gives more light, it tends to "flop over" and not stay put if placed on its' side. Can you think of any other advantages of the old Solo vs SoloII?

 

[Buzzbomb Almighty]

A week was enough to give me chest pain, thank goodness I'll be back with Solo soon.

 

[WeedyGirl1979]

I have both the Solo and Solo II models. There are so many improvements to the Solo II that I know that virtually all the design deficiencies have been addressed. I got to thinking: Is there anything the old model does better than the Solo II?

If you go way back the very first Solos could run directly off of house current with outgoing through the battery of course. Up north, I have used Solo for a handwarmer; but the outside of the Solo II does not get warm enough. Safer if you use it in bed and fall asleep, I actually melted a rayon pillowcase with the Solo once. The Solo works to give a little bit of light. Although the SoloII gives more light, it tends to "flop over" and not stay put if placed on its' side. Can you think of any other advantages of the old Solo vs SoloII?

I'm a weirdo that liked having the old Solo presets. I get why having the exact temp is important, but it was so easy to load and click four times without having to look. Also, I have to wear sunglasses pretty much at all times during the day, the Solo II's display doesn't register without me having to take off my glasses (did I mention they're prescription? yeah) to look at what temp I'm trying to head for. Nitpicky, true, but I'm owing it.

 

[OF]

I'm a weirdo that liked having the old Solo presets. I get why having the exact temp is important, but it was so easy to load and click four times without having to look. Also, I have to wear sunglasses pretty much at all times during the day, the Solo II's display doesn't register without me having to take off my glasses (did I mention they're prescription? yeah) to look at what temp I'm trying to head for. Nitpicky, true, but I'm owing it.

I agree. The steps were fine, no need for 'improvement', really. But we 'demanded it', so there it is? I drive my Solo II outside 'blind' mostly. It comes up set for 390F (since that's what I ran last) which I simply select after it boots up. I have to move into deep shade to read the display.

Then again, I liked the original 'true PA' configuration. Bypassing the battery pack and running on the mains is a cool feature IMO, far superior to 'use while charging' (like a cell phone, but not as successfully since unlike cell phones it charges slower than discharges so it can go dead while charging and it's tougher on the battery pack which is always in use supplying the extra power then recharging some during heater cycles). It wasn't broken, but we demanded they 'fix it' so they did?

"Be careful what you ask for".

OF

 

[pulpF]

Hi all,

I've had my solo for 5 or 6 years (M1F model) and last night I had a mishap

I was using my water tool, had a surprise cough and coughed into it, running water into the chamber. Such an idiot! But hey ho.

Anyway, I took my solo completely apart, down to taking the screw out from the heating element, sensor (?) and bowl. When I pulled out the bowl I had loose two wires at the bottom which I assumed is for the sensor.

When I look on youtube etc I can't find the exact model of mine, so I can't be sure I'm putting it back together properly. I am mostly unsure about where these loose cables go.

It still turns on, and flashes that its heating, but has the blue idle light on solid, then turns off after about 5 seconds.

Firstly, does anyone know if I have put the bowl back together properly? Some other pics of this model would be great.

I'm thinking it's maybe time for the Solo 2, (although the original is about half the price atm) but I would still love to try and save this nonetheless. The main shame is that I was planning on pulling the trigger on an Evo... that sets that back a bit! At least I have my Vapcap to tide me over

 

[Buzzbomb Almighty]

I hope you can fix it; when I shot water into one of mine I didn't take it apart but it was still working. The hiss and steam are really something. As I recall, I'd just received my new bubbler in the mail and was trying it out. I didn't have a gong then but loaded a straight stem and hit it. Know how you get used to turning your Solo upside down to remove the stem? Never try it with a D020 attached. Hiss, pop, and the bowl was snapped cleanly off the stem. Flight home cancelled due to snow, another 2 days of smoking. :-/

 

[pulpF]

I hope you can fix it; when I shot water into one of mine I didn't take it apart but it was still working. The hiss and steam are really something. As I recall, I'd just received my new bubbler in the mail and was trying it out. I didn't have a gong then but loaded a straight stem and hit it. Know how you get used to turning your Solo upside down to remove the stem? Never try it with a D020 attached. Hiss, pop, and the bowl was snapped cleanly off the stem. Flight home cancelled due to snow, another 2 days of smoking. :-/

Haha I know exactly what you mean.

In fact a couple of weeks ago I had a near miss; I did the exact same with the hydrotube (actually what caused the death this time) where I turned the whole thing upside down in a moment on non-thinking. Not much water got in that time though. You'd think after years of bongs I know not to cough into the pipe.............

But this time... it was too late. I sucked the bowl and loads of water came out. The last layer which the screw touches was soaking.

Going back, my main thing is I'm not sure if I'm putting the white/blue cable in the correct place.

Sorry for the potato photo, but here's probably a key image to what I mean.

 

[Buzzbomb Almighty]

OF will probably be able to sort it for you when he comes on.

 

[OF]

OF will probably be able to sort it for you when he comes on.

Beats me, but I bet it's not the original problem. Did it crash a few seconds into heating before? I think we now have a real fault, I don't think the water really caused any problems......

Lots of guys have had water accidents, did anyone actually kill theirs that way? Water won't hurt electronics (within limits, the boards are washed......and parts like the beeper come from the maker of the part with waterproof covers to be removed after washing, they expect washing).

Thermal shock could shatter ceramic I guess, but that evident and I suspect the steam generation keep water from ever contacting the ceramic until 'evaporative cooling' pulls the temperature down to a safe level. I seriously doubt you can kill a Solo by casual splashes? Was this one really dead? What were the symptoms of that?

What I think we're looking at is the temperature sensor, the heater needs solid contacts to the deposited element, not a single point. Although it looks more like a TC weld, I think the sensor is a thermistor.

It will have serious lag problems without something to couple heat in, perhaps some now absent cement? The crash out is caused, I think, because the processor doesn't sense the expected rise in the expected time. This would mean a fault that could cause a 'run away' at full power (serious overtemperature) so the unit shuts down to prevent that?

Once that is corrected (if it can be) I'd expect normal operation.

FWIW new Solo Is are 'dirt cheap' these days (since Solo II), and Solo II is a nice upgrade.......

OF

 

[pulpF]

Beats me, but I bet it's not the original problem. Did it crash a few seconds into heating before? I think we now have a real fault, I don't think the water really caused any problems......

Lots of guys have had water accidents, did anyone actually kill theirs that way? Water won't hurt electronics (within limits, the boards are washed......and parts like the beeper come from the maker of the part with waterproof covers to be removed after washing, they expect washing).

Thermal shock could shatter ceramic I guess, but that evident and I suspect the steam generation keep water from ever contacting the ceramic until 'evaporative cooling' pulls the temperature down to a safe level. I seriously doubt you can kill a Solo by casual splashes? Was this one really dead? What were the symptoms of that?

What I think we're looking at is the temperature sensor, the heater needs solid contacts to the deposited element, not a single point. Although it looks more like a TC weld, I think the sensor is a thermistor.

It will have serious lag problems without something to couple heat in, perhaps some now absent cement? The crash out is caused, I think, because the processor doesn't sense the expected rise in the expected time. This would mean a fault that could cause a 'run away' at full power (serious overtemperature) so the unit shuts down to prevent that?

Once that is corrected (if it can be) I'd expect normal operation.

FWIW new Solo Is are 'dirt cheap' these days (since Solo II), and Solo II is a nice upgrade.......

OF

Hi OF, I remember you helping me with a portable charging solution a couple of years ago!

It has never displayed this behaviour of not heating and then turning off.

I spilt the water, turned it off and opened it up to dry it.

I think the problem was from when I pulled the bowl out, and the wires must have pulled out from the ring? (my last picture from above). Do you mean the cement must be absent from this part?

It doesn't heat up at all, so my thinking is also similar with how it's like it's picking up a "fault" and turning itself off.

Regarding upgrading, I have a Solo II in my basket now. Might make me feel a bit less sad about killing this one, if it's an upgrade.