Arizer Solo

[OF]

I'm curious how much of the solo's heating is convection versus conduction. In the Air thread, I saw a post that says the air is mostly conduction.

Also, what's a reputable seller to get the real thing if so? The official site's price is quite high.

First off, howdy! Welcome to the forum and the fun. Lots of good information available, like the point that Solo/Air is conduction in operation. Guys like to think it's convection I think, because they somehow think that means it's automatically superior for that reason? Thermodynamics rules say it's conduction that does the work, but IMO there's nothing superior about one mode (conduction, convection or radiation), it's all heat. Conduction vapes can be 'dirty' more often I guess, convection is probably easier to keep in top form that way but if you insist on convection you're down to ESV, Vapor Genie, Lotus and GH if it ever happens in current portables? Anyone else think of any off hand?

Convection needs a lot more energy to work, which is why ESV (and GH when it works....) have such limited battery life. Why most of the others use butane for heating (much better energy density).

You'll note that by reputation Solo/Air gets top marks for taste and efficiency, how exactly that happens is perhaps not important?

Best price for Solo is probably Randy at PIU. $160 or so shipped right now, he'll match any legitimate offer and give you amazing customer service in the unlikely event you need it. There's a reason this thread is so long with so many happy campers. You won't regret either Solo or Air.

OF

 

[ataxian]

Best price for Solo is probably Randy at PIU. $160 or so shipped right now, he'll match any legitimate offer and give you amazing customer service in the unlikely event you need it. There's a reason this thread is so long with so many happy campers. You won't regret either Solo or Air.

OF

@OF you might be able to assist me?

I cleaned my PHVES stem with PBW however I'm missing a part?
It taste unreal I just like clean!

 

[OF]

@OF you might be able to assist me?

I cleaned my PHVES stem with PBW however I'm missing a part?
It taste unreal I just like clean!

Sorry, Bro, you lost me? Something's missing? I'd put some herb in before I tried to use it, but otherwise don't see a problem???

What am I missing? TIA

OF

 

[ataxian]

Sorry, Bro, you lost me? Something's missing? I'd put some herb in before I tried to use it, but otherwise don't see a problem???

What am I missing? TIA

OF

See the gunk ring near the load section?

I had a stem of WIZ KALIFA OG and WOW!
Level 4 on my old SOLO.

 

[OF]

See the gunk ring near the load section?

I had a stem of WIZ KALIFA OG and WOW!
Level 4 on my old SOLO.

OK, got it. I bet another wash will clear it, it looks mostly there? It's a fun detergent, several things going on as I understand it. It has limited life for instance. And temperature helps a lot, as does agitation.

For such guys I use a 'travel tube' like PV sells (AKA 'baby soda bottle', the blanks they blow soft drink bottles from. The stem goes in, a pinch of PBW and the hottest sink water possible follow. I invert it a couple of times to mix it up then drop the tube (with cap) into a bowl of hot water so it stays toasty for 5 or even 10 minutes shaking it a bit, enough to keep fresh fluid at the site and time to rinse.

The interesting part, at least to me, is the way the oil gets cleaned off the glass by deposited on the plastic. I'm sure it has to do with surfactants in the PBW being able to pull it off glass better than the plastic. I don't know what to do other than wipe it out from time to time with a stick, paper towel and some ISO. The glass comes out sparkling, not so the tube? Hey, it works........

A bit like the old puzzler when all the best Alchemists were looking for the Universal Solvent (would dissolve anything). You gotta wonder what they planned to put it in.....

OF

 

[Buzzbomb Almighty]

When I got mine there was a sale; $120 US so with tax it was $167 Cdn and free grinder. They sold a shedload over a couple of days.
ps: when you do 1/3 or 1/2 a bowl you don't have to pull as hard, it's easy

 

[MeditativeMind]

@OF what does the OF in OF stand for?

 

[al bundy]

See the gunk ring near the load section?

I had a stem of WIZ KALIFA OG and WOW!
Level 4 on my old SOLO.

Get yourself a Vapir No2 cleaning brush off ebay if you don't have one.
Works nice they're long enough to reach.

 

[Hashtag46&2]

First off, howdy! Welcome to the forum and the fun. Lots of good information available, like the point that Solo/Air is conduction in operation. Guys like to think it's convection I think, because they somehow think that means it's automatically superior for that reason? Thermodynamics rules say it's conduction that does the work, but IMO there's nothing superior about one mode (conduction, convection or radiation), it's all heat. Conduction vapes can be 'dirty' more often I guess, convection is probably easier to keep in top form that way but if you insist on convection you're down to ESV, Vapor Genie, Lotus and GH if it ever happens in current portables? Anyone else think of any off hand?

Convection needs a lot more energy to work, which is why ESV (and GH when it works....) have such limited battery life. Why most of the others use butane for heating (much better energy density).

You'll note that by reputation Solo/Air gets top marks for taste and efficiency, how exactly that happens is perhaps not important?

Best price for Solo is probably Randy at PIU. $160 or so shipped right now, he'll match any legitimate offer and give you amazing customer service in the unlikely event you need it. There's a reason this thread is so long with so many happy campers. You won't regret either Solo or Air.

OF

I hear ya on peeps hating on the Solo, as it's Conduction, if that's a bad thing, I don't care to be good?

Other portable convection Vapes.

Firefly 1 & 2 (2coming soon )

Zion (long pre-order ..I suggest waiting until they reach full production, A flawless Zion... Geeeeez... Droooool)

Firewood 3

Edit; miVape

Atmos Vicod5G (Knockoff I'm sure, but looks good actually, best Atmos product I've read about)

FlashVape?

I'm thinking I'm missing something or more.

 

[Thcgos]

I hear ya on peeps hating on the Solo, as it's Conduction, if that's a bad thing, I don't care to be good?

Other portable convection Vapes.

Firefly 1 & 2 (2coming soon )

Zion (long pre-order ..I suggest waiting until they reach full production, A flawless Zion... Geeeeez... Droooool)

Firewood 3

Edit; miVape

Atmos Vicod5G (Knockoff I'm sure, but looks good actually, best Atmos product I've read about)

FlashVape?

I'm thinking I'm missing something or more.

*Grasshopper (but same situation as the Zion)
*Elevape Smart Vape
*Minivap
*Crafty/Mighty (mix of conduction and convection)
*vapman (I'm pretty sure it's full convection) (vapman actually confirmed as conduction, my bad) .
*Lotus

 

[OF]

*vapman (I'm pretty sure it's full convection).

I'm sure it's conduction (you heat the pan with the torch, the hot pan heats the load).

BTW, it's not radiation either (another popular misconception) which needs a source (or heat) much hotter than the load (thing heated) to be useful. Bender is the only example of a portable radiation vape I know of?

OF

 

[Thcgos]

I'm sure it's conduction (you heat the pan with the torch, the hot pan heats the load).

BTW, it's not radiation either (another popular misconception) which needs a source (or heat) much hotter than the load (thing heated) to be useful. Bender is the only example of a portable radiation vape I know of?

OF

Cool yeah I wasn't 100% sure.
The others I mentioned definitely are convection or a combination.

 

[sickmanfraud]

I'm curious how much of the solo's heating is convection versus conduction. In the Air thread, I saw a post that says the air is mostly conduction. Well, I already have a Pax 2 that I got solely for portability (not discretion). I like it just because I can throw it in whatever pocket I have and barely notice it there...really tiny. Anyway, I'd like to get one that is less portable (but not a desktop) and primarily convection. Is the solo a good way to go? Also, what's a reputable seller to get the real thing if so? The official site's price is quite high.

Welcome @MaekSo,

If you are in the USA you should buy from a Canadian webstore so you can take advantage of the currency conversion to save about 25% of the canadian price.

Planetvape.ca is a supporting retailer.

If you are not in the USA, check out Puffitup.com another sponsoring retailer with exceptional service and prices.

The closest to convection on the Solo (which is not real convection, ask @OF) is to turn the Solo to temp 7 without a stem. Once the Solo is at temp you insert the stem upside down so there is no contact between the medicine and the bottom of the bowl. Then take the stem out after each hit.

The Solo upside down with the curved stem is referred to as hamster bottle.

 

[Stu]

BTW, it's not radiation either (another popular misconception) which needs a source (or heat) much hotter than the load (thing heated) to be useful. Bender is the only example of a portable radiation vape I know of?

This is incorrect, but it is also off topic so let's keep the discussion solo-centric please. Speaking of the Solo, it does have some convection involved as shown by independent testing.

 

[ataxian]

This is incorrect, but it is also off topic so let's keep the discussion solo-centric please. Speaking of the Solo, it does have some convection involved as shown by independent testing.

I have used a SOLO for a while now.
For a gardening tool it's a work horse.
Convection/Conduction is fine with modifications to fit your needs.

If your a collector get them all.
Medically it's very useful!
The SOLO is a no thrills device and cheaper than most.

If you like a 4x4 jacked up in the city a SOLO will not fit your ego trip.

The SOLO is more like a CORDLESS tool!

No EGO just BLISS!

 

[OF]

Speaking of the Solo, it does have some convection involved as shown by independent testing.

Indeed? Can you please point to that? The tests I did seemed to indicate just the opposite (air flow lowered the load temperature).

TIA

OF

 

[lookhigh]

Me? i dont care if its convection, conduction, radiation or even diesel powered.
It is what it is and It works just fine.
SOLO on Friends.

 

[Stu]

Indeed? Can you please point to that? The tests I did seemed to indicate just the opposite (air flow lowered the load temperature).

TIA

OF

I performed a similar experiment and found that the temperature of the load actually increases by about 40°C during a draw. So the incoming air is adding heat energy and not robbing the heat in the chamber like in the Ascent's design.

 

[OF]

I performed a similar experiment and found that the temperature of the load actually increases by about 40°C during a draw. So the incoming air is adding heat energy and not robbing the heat in the chamber like in the Ascent's design.

Yep, I got that back then and asked a couple of IMO important questions:

"Very interesting. Where and how did you measure it? I can see the center of a domed screen doing this, perhaps? What was the idle temperature?

I sure don't think the cup is at 240C (200+40), that would raise hob between hits you'd think."

I didn't see any answers to that? How the measurement was made is important if I'm going to try to reproduce it. As is 'does the idle temperature fit the heat selected'. If that (the idle temp is correct) a 40 degree C rise is very questionable, if it was below vaping temperature before the 'hit' it was under vaping temperature (which raises different questions)?

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/arizer-solo.3833/page-1402#post-874761

For convection to work the air (or other fluid) has to be at a higher temperature so it can give up energy (heat, in calories) and still be above the desired load temperature (in degrees). This means, like in ESV, VG. Cera and other convection based vapes the heat source has to be higher in temperature than the target (vaping) temperature. In those vapes it is glowing hot, much hotter than the cup or any part of the Solo. Depending on how you configure things you can bring things up toward the cup temperature if there are no heat loads, but with a heat load (making vapor say) you will 'fall short' more and more (in degrees) as the heat required (in calories, like to make vapor) goes up.

Anyway, please, how did you rig your experiment, what were the exact temperatures (not 'up 40C') and Solo step? I'd like to repeat this since it doesn't match my results. I might have to make another sensor, I loaned/gave it to a friend who repeated the test a while back and it seems it never came back?

TIA

OF

 

[Stu]

Anyway, please, how did you rig your experiment, what were the exact temperatures (not 'up 40C') and Solo step? I'd like to repeat this since it doesn't match my results. I might have to make another sensor, I loaned/gave it to a friend who repeated the test a while back and it seems it never came back?

TIA

I placed the tip of the TC in the middle of a loaded stem (no screen). Set to level 4 the temp went from 150°C to 190°C during the draw. I look forward to your findings once you get your get your "loaned" equipment back. I hope you don't loan vaporizers to friends like that!

 

[sloth]

Has anyone here tried making there own high capacity battery pack? I got a pair of 3400mah NCR18650b batteries and wired them up following this tutorial. My solo seems to be functioning fine, the unit charges and heats up, but the battery level indicator doesn't work. How can I get the unit to show what level the battery is at, or is it only possible with the stock batteries?

 

[Derrrpp]

Has anyone here tried making there own high capacity battery pack? I got a pair of 3400mah NCR18650b batteries and wired them up following this tutorial. My solo seems to be functioning fine, the unit charges and heats up, but the battery level indicator doesn't work. How can I get the unit to show what level the battery is at, or is it only possible with the stock batteries?

@CentiZen might be able to help you. That tutorial you followed was based on his original thread about it here on FC:

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/c...rformance-battery-packs-original-thread.6835/

It might be worth perusing that thread if you haven't already.

Good luck!

 

[sloth]

@CentiZen might be able to help you. That tutorial you followed was based on his original thread about it here on FC:

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/c...rformance-battery-packs-original-thread.6835/

It might be worth perusing that thread if you haven't already.

Good luck!

Thanks for that. My battery level indicator actually does work. I didnt realize that the battery was low enough to indicate the level was at zero but there was still enough charge to heat up the unit. After leaving it on the charger for a bit, the led indicator has slowly, but surely, risen.

 

[Pipes]

Has anyone here tried making there own high capacity battery pack? I got a pair of 3400mah NCR18650b batteries and wired them up following this tutorial. My solo seems to be functioning fine, the unit charges and heats up, but the battery level indicator doesn't work. How can I get the unit to show what level the battery is at, or is it only possible with the stock batteries?

Looking at that tutorial has hairs rising on my neck.
First thing is he recommends soldering directly to the negative side of the battery. Not good at all as will damage the inside coating used to keep the chemistry working correctly inside the battery. Funny thing is he insists on lead free solder which means the soldering iron needs to be even hotter than with leaded solder. Not in any vapour path so where'e the logic?
At very least I'd expect the damage would shorten the life of the battery over time. At worst cause it to fail and maybe cause it to vent out.
Another thing is the tutorial doesn't even re-use the safety PC board which is mounted on the side of the OEM battery pack. This board isn't just there for looks. It provides a layer of safety as well as helps to keep the two batteries balanced in charge which helps prevent one cell from getting driven into the ground.
IMO, very bad tutorial.
You need batteries with leads already "welded" on, and re-use the OEM board or they can be had separately as well.
Careful with this.

 

[Hashtag46&2]

Looking at that tutorial has hairs rising on my neck.
First thing is he recommends soldering directly to the negative side of the battery. Not good at all as will damage the inside coating used to keep the chemistry working correctly inside the battery. Funny thing is he insists on lead free solder which means the soldering iron needs to be even hotter than with leaded solder. Not in any vapour path so where'e the logic?
At very least I'd expect the damage would shorten the life of the battery over time. At worst cause it to fail and maybe cause it to vent out.
Another thing is the tutorial doesn't even re-use the safety PC board which is mounted on the side of the OEM battery pack. This board isn't just there for looks. It provides a layer of safety as well as helps to keep the two batteries balanced in charge which helps prevent one cell from getting driven into the ground.
IMO, very bad tutorial.
You need batteries with leads already "welded" on, and re-use the OEM board or they can be had separately as well.
Careful with this.

Agreed on all points pipes!!!

When I clicked... First thing I thought..

@OF And @Pipes ...
They would be all over this post.

My neck hairs were goin nuts...

Please be careful with these batteries, they are powerful gadgets that can double as an m80

Again, not trying to be an ass, rather the opposite, I want my Solo crew safe, sound and high.