One last question, would it be possible to load the potpourri bowl with shatter/concentrate and then hold the glass mouthpiece over it and vape shatter like that? I only have about 2.5 grams left of concentrates, but it would be really nice to finish it off with a true vape, even though nails/buckets are KINDA vaporizing.
No, that's not going to work, it won't get hot enough.
However, you can make a 'sandwich' of such goodies with a bit of herb above and below to catch and hold any leaks until they vape off. Lots of folks love it that way.
The earliest versions had a ceramic coated oven chamber. Some started to flake and chip off in their ovens .
I think that's when Arizer made the decision to go SS
permanently , to stave off any more returns in the future .
I too prefer using the PA , to conserve battery.
Yep, the risk is the
chips, not 'stinky bowls'. I'm not sure if I'd prefer ceramic (I might?), but it's just not an option any more. SS is the right material I think as well.
And of course you prefer the PA when you can, you're a knowledgeable and discerning user, right? And irresistible to women everywhere I hear......is that true?
I've got a problem I'm hoping someone can help me resolve. I stripped the top cap threads on my Solo trying to install one of those damn o-rings.
Sorry you had troubles, lots of guys did when the 'how to do it' got separated from 'what to do'. The rings need fitting, you can't use the cap to clamp down or you run the risk of stripping the cap (as you found out) or breaking the tabs on the base. You want at most 1/4 turn after contact. At most. Guys who 'clamp down until it's tight enough' are setting themselves up.
And the original idea got away, too. It was intended to stop the bent stem from rotating on it's own. Guys expect more than that because they 'read it on the web'.
The ring sizes commonly used for that mod are still correct to grip the GonG, it's the normal ring ID that matters. But without a cap to hold it, it's just a rubber band on the glass (it won't fix anything).
You've got three options to fix the cap problem I know of. You can 'egg' the mouth of the cap (make it out of round) so the threads mesh at several points rather than 'all around'. I recommend 3 sides as opposed to two. The aluminum is hard but yields fairly easily. Take it slowly and you should be fine. I've done this, it works. You can also put a few wraps of PTFE tape on the body threads, more if needed, but remember to take it gently as you can strip the Teflon and have to start over. I've done this too, testing ideas. Lastly, some guys have replaced the body and cap, easy enough to do via the four screws on the bottom. You might try Arizer, or perhaps PIU? Randy has sold used units for parts to others, you have working electronics so a dead unit with sound body????
OF
