Arizer Solo

hd_rider

Well-Known Member
Now a question about the o-ring: When placing it, is it still possible to fully close the upper part?

You may or may not be able to fully screw down the cap. This seems to vary from Solo to Solo and the thickness of the ring you're using. The key point here is to NOT FORCE IT.

If you screw the cap down too tight, the o-ring can put pressure on the internal components such that you increase the stress on the bottom plastic plate where it attaches to the aluminum housing via four small screws. This extra stress can result in the plastic around these four screws to crack.

If you insist on using an o-ring beneath the top cap, screw the cap on tight enough to keep the ring in position; just don't over-tighten it. You may end up with a small gap where the cap meets the threads of the main housing, and although not visually appealing, it will not affect the operation of your Solo.

I've read from a number of users here who have sanded the o-ring, essentially shaving off a small amount of the diameter, thereby allowing the cap to fully seat when screwed down. Searching this thread will allow you to find instructions on how to do that.
 

ILoveVaping33

Well-Known Member
what about just putting some kind of tape around the glass part, so that it gets thicker... Any idea what kind of tape I'd need for that?
 
ILoveVaping33,
  • Like
Reactions: OF

hd_rider

Well-Known Member
There are tapes that are good for use up to 500 degrees, but I would be hesitant to use anything like that on the Solo or stems. Who knows what off-gassing those tapes produce when heated, gasses that could be inhaled.

Personally, I think a loose stem is better than a tight stem as it allows for more air flow and less restriction. The folks at Arizer seem to agree. Last week, I sent an email to Arizer asking about replacement rings for the top of the heating chamber. Here was their response:

"The glass pieces will all fit differently into each Solo unit because the glass parts are hand-made. The difference in fit is very slight - some a bit looser and some a bit tighter. There is nothing wrong with them if they fit loosely or tightly, but a loose fit is ideal. For example, if you turn it upside down the mouthpiece should fall right out. The Solo is designed for optimum performance and efficiency with loose fitting Glass Aroma Tubes. "
 
Last edited:

OF

Well-Known Member
what about just putting some kind of tape around the glass part, so that it gets thicker... Any idea what kind of tape I'd need for that?

Sure you can do that but it will further stretch the seal so then you'll need more tape, right? And sealing up the gap will increase the draw restriction....something you're looking to decrease?

The unit is designed to leak air there, adding an o-ring (which only partially blocks this function) increases the restriction about as much as shifting to a PVHES reduces it. IMO the two cancel each other basically? For this reason I notch the rings on mine (I have 2) on the bottom face and carefully fit them (they need to be tight enough under the cover to not shift too far when changing stems, but no tighter. The idea is for the ring to grip the stem, then the Solo to (lightly) grip the ring.

At the risk of repeating myself I suggest trying the unit as designed and delivered first. Then you can (later) base plans on first hand experience, not conjecture, questionable advice on the web from strangers who won't even use their real name, or just plain out and out guesses?

IMO guys who 'read it on the web' and fling an o-ring they think might be right in willy nilly before they even know how it's supposed to work have some skills in the deductive reasoning area to work on. The internet is no substitute for (or should that be 'improvement on'?) ignorance; education is.

It's your unit, do what you want with it. If you insist on 'going there' you might want to use PTFE 'Plumber's Tape'. Thin Teflon (fine to the temperatures we have here) and no adhesives or other chemicals to worry about. Plan on using more, however, as time goes on? And expect draw resistance to increase for your efforts.

Regards,

OF
 

ILoveVaping33

Well-Known Member
Interesting... I just used my device for second time and this time with the loose curved stem. I didn't notice any difference regarding the air flow. I like it better with the stem fitting tight simply because it feels more stable. Also with the curved loose one, the mouth peace sometimes drifts away when I try to put it in my mouth, this wouldn't happen if it was tight.

Also, I think if the stem is loose in the device then the herbs will more likely fall into the heating element.

But this little thing is awesome

There are tapes that are good for use up to 500 degrees, but I would be hesitant to use anything like that on the Solo or stems. Who knows what off-gassing those tapes produce when heated, gasses that could be inhaled.

Personally, I think a loose stem is better than a tight stem as it allows for more air flow and less restriction. The folks at Arizer seem to agree. Last week, I sent an email to Arizer asking about replacement rings for the top of the heating chamber. Here was their response:

"The glass pieces will all fit differently into each Solo unit because the glass parts are hand-made. The difference in fit is very slight - some a bit looser and some a bit tighter. There is nothing wrong with them if they fit loosely or tightly, but a loose fit is ideal. For example, if you turn it upside down the mouthpiece should fall right out. The Solo is designed for optimum performance and efficiency with loose fitting Glass Aroma Tubes. "
 
Last edited:
ILoveVaping33,

RUDE BOY

Space is the Place
I wanted to add an o-ring to tighten down the stems a bit (I like using the bent stem best but hate chasing it). Now after reading about the bottom plate chipping off around the screws makes me kind of leery of adding one.

I have a newer solo and wanted to know about using the passthrough PA with it. If I want to use it plugged in can I still use the PA and not fuck up the battery? Will the battery still sort of charge or try to charge with the 9V PA ? TIA.
 

dos equis

Well-Known Member
So after proudly not having broken any glass at all, it finally happened to me too. Trying to clear my PVHES I snapped a part of the bowl-end straight off. Damn.

I'm glad I have the original stems still.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
I wanted to add an o-ring to tighten down the stems a bit (I like using the bent stem best but hate chasing it).

I have a newer solo and wanted to know about using the passthrough PA with it. If I want to use it plugged in can I still use the PA and not fuck up the battery? Will the battery still sort of charge or try to charge with the 9V PA ? TIA.

I'm with you on the stem chasing, it's what got me on the quest that ended in the 113 ring solution. IMO, correctly fitted it does no harm. I fear few are worried about that detail?

While I haven't tried it, several owners have reported that the new versions don't have a true passthrough (ie 'PA') mode any longer. The old PA now functions as a charger instead. Likewise car cords of either type. It will charge normally (in fact should even let the Solo electronics run a bit cooler?) but the battery will still 'take a beating' with each use, be it cordless or 'charge while using'.

No more 'battery saving PA mode'.

IMO the best option is to enjoy it as it is and replace the battery when/if it needs it?

Regards,

OF
 

RUDE BOY

Space is the Place
Thanx OF. Kind of wish they had left a good thing alone but they must of had there reasons for changing how it's powered I guess, :shrug: IDK.

Went a few years with no electrical plugs near my vaping area so i'll live.
 
RUDE BOY,
  • Like
Reactions: OF

Dr. Soxhlet

SOLO Vaporized Cannabis is my Best Medicine
I'm with you on the stem chasing, it's what got me on the quest that ended in the 113 ring solution. IMO, correctly fitted it does no harm. I fear few are worried about that detail?







OF

Sorry, I have a hard time believing that that 113 "O" ring causes the bottom of the unit to crack. When I first got this replacement Solo 2 months ago, I did not use an "O" ring and instead followed the manufacturers' advice and pushed the black factory ring back down until flush. I also used a 35mm plastic film canister with gentle pressure to seat that ring again. Later I got tired of the procedure and switched to the 113 "O" ring. It never comes out now.
What I found is that the cracking started before the "O" ring was used. This seems to happen more on newer units as well.
I think Ataxian has three older units used with "O" rings and these have not cracked. However, sanding down that "O" ring will keep the threads from stripping on the cap(I had to replace the cap on my first Solo).
Are newer units suffering base cracking without the use of an "O" ring?
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Help! I lost my charger and can't seem to find another, any ideas?

Sure, PV sells them. Radio Shack also, if you search back some you'll find the exact model (it's a 12VDC one Amp unit with interchangable ends).
http://www.planetvape.ca/solo-vaporizer-charger.html

Another option is to get a 'car cord' for it (sometimes called 'car charger'), it's pretty easy to find 12VDC supplies with 'auto cigarette lighter' sockets?
http://www.planetvape.ca/solo-vaporizer-car-charger.html

OF
 

hd_rider

Well-Known Member
Are newer units suffering base cracking without the use of an "O" ring?

Well, the good doctor got me to take out my jeweler's loupe to take a closer look at my 2-month old M1A4A Solo. Mind you, this Solo has never had an o-ring installed. Imagine my surprise when I find this:

YFlVodV.jpg


GWQORHO.jpg


I found this surprising because the first thing I did when I received the Solo was back out the four screws and ever-so-carefully snug them down without over-tightening them. I had already read too many reports about cracked bases and didn't want mine to be one of them.

Now granted, I had to use my loupe to see these cracks and they may have been there from the beginning. The only thing I can think of is the screws were installed too tightly during initial assembly.

I don't think these cracks are enough for me to send it back, so I'll just be extra ginger with her to prevent any more damage.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Every vaporizer? What makes it too hard?

It's harder than some would like for sure, but I think "too hard" is kind of subjective. It's obviously not too hard, it works?

There is restriction because more flow is counter productive. It has, of course, been tested. Like the same fire producing more useful heat in a fireplace than a campfire in some respects. And the equivalent of opening doors and windows (and removing insulation) from your house and still expecting to get the same heat from the same fuel in others.

It's much easier to cook a meal (using less fuel) with a stove than the fireplace. And both are a step up from an open fire......which has the easiest 'draw' of the lot......

It does no good to milk a cow harder, you get sore hands, a pissed off cow, but no more milk. Likewise most all vapes have a pretty limited production rate, trying to push that by sucking harder isn't the answer. Nor is making lots of extra holes and letting more air in to dilute the vapor (but with increased volume and 'easier draw') and perhaps rob the very heat that would make more vapor in the process.

Skills from blazing don't count. Vaping is different. Follow the advice for a bit and see. Those before you had the same questions no doubt, you can profit from their experience. A lot of savvy guys have helped get it to it's current 'state of the art', I suggest exploring that aspect.

Regards,

OF
 

spoutti

Well-Known Member
I wanted to add an o-ring to tighten down the stems a bit (I like using the bent stem best but hate chasing it). Now after reading about the bottom plate chipping off around the screws makes me kind of leery of adding one.

I have a newer solo and wanted to know about using the passthrough PA with it. If I want to use it plugged in can I still use the PA and not fuck up the battery? Will the battery still sort of charge or try to charge with the 9V PA ? TIA.

About o-rings and cracked bottom plate. I use 2 solos in rotation as my daily drivers both with o-ring mod. 1 year now. I "overscrewd" 1 of my solo's cap a few times, but i decided it was not wise to do it. I screw it close to loose; just lightly squeezing my o-ring. I dont have any cracks on my bottom plate.

I think the important part is not to overscrew your cap when you put an o-ring. Solo will keep its brand new look this way.
 

vii

Well-Known Member
I also have a crack on the bottom of my new unit. I never put a oring in it. I didn't know this was a problem. I just thought it cracked in shipping. It nothing serious to replace the unit.i guess these newer units are using lower grade material now.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
I think the important part is not to overscrew your cap when you put an o-ring. Solo will keep its brand new look this way.

Agreed. I think that's important too, the unit wasn't intended to have such loads on the screws.

I also think the problem may come from heat. It might be OK (but real tight) when cold, but when you fire it up the inside heats faster than the case. It might expand, or try to, inside the ever tighter box?

Planet vape just got the high efficiency stems back in stock. not posted yet. emailed them and ordered it today. finally!

Great news! "Gentlemen, start your engines!".

I also have a crack on the bottom of my new unit. I never put a oring in it.

It nothing serious to replace the unit.i guess these newer units are using lower grade material now.

Putting a ring in is not the only way to break a tab. Some get dropped (either on the way to the owner, or afterwards), some crack because the screws are too tight, some because the tab wasn't solidly down on the case before the screw is snugged down (I've done this.....), some for no apparent reason (phase of the moon?).

I agree, for most it's not a big deal, sure doesn't keep the Solo from making specs. Some want perfect. I don't understand the 'must be using cheap materials now' part? On what do you base this? Several members have disassembled both types and report that aside from function (use while charging) the only apparent change is in the size of the holes in the oven. What materials do you suggest they've changed?

I see nothing to support the idea that Arizer is using lesser quality materials. Does anyone else?

TIA

OF
 

CarolKing

Singer of songs and a vapor connoisseur
Sorry, I have a hard time believing that that 113 "O" ring causes the bottom of the unit to crack. When I first got this replacement Solo 2 months ago, I did not use an "O" ring and instead followed the manufacturers' advice and pushed the black factory ring back down until flush. I also used a 35mm plastic film canister with gentle pressure to seat that ring again. Later I got tired of the procedure and switched to the 113 "O" ring. It never comes out now.
What I found is that the cracking started before the "O" ring was used. This seems to happen more on newer units as well.
I think Ataxian has three older units used with "O" rings and these have not cracked. However, sanding down that "O" ring will keep the threads from stripping on the cap(I had to replace the cap on my first Solo).
Are newer units suffering base cracking without the use of an "O" ring?
I didn't have a o-ring in the Solo that I just sent back. It had chipping by two of the screws. First I noticed a crack, then a piece chipped off by one screw and it was starting to chip off another screw before I sent it back to PIU,I bought it 2 months ago. Something was going wonky with the battery. It wouldn't heat up unless it was plugged in. I should be getting another tomorrow or the day after. It was shipped out yesterday from CA, I live in WA.
 

MPhire

Trying to Focus
I think the glass stem is okay with the M1E model. I enjoy the first 6 draws until it's light brown or so. Then I usually try to vape it to dark brown and by that point I'm fairly "there" and the stem seems stumbly and I can't feel the wind go through it anymore. The first few hits feel like a slow breeze but after a bit it seems clogged even with stirring.

I'd like to try one of those wooden stems to compare. The screen in the wooden stem also looks much nicer. As soon as they get in Stock I'm grabbing one.
 

poonman

Well-Known Member
I wanted to add an o-ring to tighten down the stems a bit (I like using the bent stem best but hate chasing it). Now after reading about the bottom plate chipping off around the screws makes me kind of leery of adding one.

I have a newer solo and wanted to know about using the passthrough PA with it. If I want to use it plugged in can I still use the PA and not fuck up the battery? Will the battery still sort of charge or try to charge with the 9V PA ? TIA.

Simple solution for the moving stems . ( from a simple guy )
I place my first finger on the stem to steady it and guide it towards my mouth . I personally like the easiness to switch
stems , so I don't really mind the loose stems .

I just tried the PA mode on my Fully Charged new Solo .
And it's letting me use it old style , Not Charging at all .
Now I did plug it in before when it wasn't Fully Charged ,
and the flashing Green charging light was flickering as to
Charge .

So , I'm wondering if a Fully Charge Solo will still allow
you to use the PA old style ... more testing needed .
 
Top Bottom