uncanni
Well-Known Member
When I pack loosely (but full) as recommended, I don't notice any draw resistance at all. I always use the curved mouthpiece.
Arizer Solo II
- Thread starter bluenavey00
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- arizer error 7 fix solo ii
When I pack loosely (but full) as recommended, I don't notice any draw resistance at all. I always use the curved mouthpiece.
To me the resistance is just right. I find it easier to do big draws with a little resistance.
OF
Well-Known Member
I tend to agree with you, I seldom find objectionable draw resistance in typical vapes. But that's mighty subjective. As a 'sipper' I get it that others are different? As a relative measure almost any vape is more restricted than say a Volcano bag?
I think it's safe to say most if not all makers experiment with this in development. Generally they want it as open as possible without 'overrunning' vapor production? As I said before PVHES generally ended up disappointing folks who thought it was an easy (and obvious) route to 'big clouds'.
I even played around with trying to make absolute measurements here. Like connecting a vape to the top of a sealed jar of water with a siphon drain line in it's bottom set up on my patio table (fixed height). Then timing how long (in seconds) it took to drain the water out, replacing it with air drawn through the vape, when the drain hose was dropped onto the ground.
That would give is a way of ranking draw resistances. But to make it viable would mean a lot of testing and a lot of vapes to test.........
As an alternative, if you send me your vape I'll let you know how restricted it really is. No need to thank me, I'm glad to help out when I can.
Oh, yeah, you should send me some of your stash too, of course, for best accuracy.
Regards to all.
OF
Tranquility
Well-Known Member
Here's a question I'll be experimenting with a bit but would like other's perspectives on the matter. I've got an eighth that is wetter than the normal for flower I've purchased. For instance, the Boveda in the container was 65%. Most I've been buying have been 55% with a couple even lower than that.
While I don't know how much more profitable weed with 65% relative humidity is over 55% (more water = less other stuff) but I do know I have wetter weed.
How do I change to adapt?
Should I raise the temperature up front to get rid of the water faster or do I just accept it's going to take a bit longer to toast? Should I grind looser or finer? Pack more or less? Throw it in with a 55% Boveda? Finally, does whatever I do really make any difference?
While I don't know how much more profitable weed with 65% relative humidity is over 55% (more water = less other stuff) but I do know I have wetter weed.
How do I change to adapt?
Should I raise the temperature up front to get rid of the water faster or do I just accept it's going to take a bit longer to toast? Should I grind looser or finer? Pack more or less? Throw it in with a 55% Boveda? Finally, does whatever I do really make any difference?
OF
Well-Known Member
You can simply forge ahead (although grinding might be harder to do). Water evaporates LONG before THC so it will delay the good stuff until it dries out (notice how even lightly vaped ABV is 'bone dry'?). No matter how dry it is going in, basically 100% of whatever is there has to go first?
However, and this can be a big one, fouling will go way up with moist weed. That water condenses in the system and gets that old 'oil and water' thing going. We learned early on with MFLB if the herb was kept dry going in there was basically no fouling under the screen, which is impossible to remove once there due to the design.
I recommend at least a medium grind (helps with conduction if there's more contact) and drying it well before loading up. You'll get vapor faster, the battery will last longer and the fouling will be much less. I dry mine in an open jar on my router (which runs a bit warm).
Regards to all.
OF
uncanni
Well-Known Member
YOU should not have to change at all: it's your weed that must dessicate a bit. It makes me wonder if your seller had cured the bud at all; usually 65% is where the cure in the jar starts, and for me, two months later it's down to 60 and below. It's really amazing to me how much mellower it is to vape after 2 months' cure and more.
I would never vape bud at 65% RH.
WildChild
Seeking My Shangri-La
I am currently in Ecuador for a few months on business.
While relaxing with a cold beer at a local outdoor bar, I pulled my Solo II out of my knapsack and loaded it up. In the middle of my second puff, two police officers (one in uniform, one not) came up to my table to see what the hell I was doing. Within ten minutes, I had both of them puffing away to their delight. (Weed is 'somewhat' decriminalized here). A bit risky, yes, but it all worked out. The one in plain clothes ended up being the Police Chief.
I've done this with soldiers in Mexico and senior government officials in Myanmar as well. They are always blown away with the unit and offer to buy it from me. Too funny.
Spreading Solo II love wherever I go! Love this thing.
While relaxing with a cold beer at a local outdoor bar, I pulled my Solo II out of my knapsack and loaded it up. In the middle of my second puff, two police officers (one in uniform, one not) came up to my table to see what the hell I was doing. Within ten minutes, I had both of them puffing away to their delight. (Weed is 'somewhat' decriminalized here). A bit risky, yes, but it all worked out. The one in plain clothes ended up being the Police Chief.
I've done this with soldiers in Mexico and senior government officials in Myanmar as well. They are always blown away with the unit and offer to buy it from me. Too funny.
Spreading Solo II love wherever I go! Love this thing.
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
i suggest you never do that in thailand. they can bust your ass with some 2000$ fee or something. be careful my sII soulmate. never take the risk too much.
GoldenBud
Well-Known Member
I'd keep it for traveling etc' because the stems are so cheap on ebay so you can break them and rebuy..
if you don't take your vapes outside and already got a mighty - sell it. mighty is like a solo ii with more convection. they're not too different tho.
WildChild
Seeking My Shangri-La
Great advice. I was working in Myanmar for seven months and had to fly to Bangkok every 70 days to renew my working visa. Brought my e-cigarette with me. Some cool Thai dude on the street pulled me aside while I was having a puff and told me they were highly illegal! Who knew? I did bring my Solo II to Myanmar, but never traveled to Bangkok with it.
I appreciate your post very much. Thank you.
OF
Well-Known Member
I'm curious if anyone has seen or knows of a Solo 2 disassembly video. I know they exist for the original but I'd like to see what the guts of this system is. If you have a link please PM me as I don't long onto these forums that much these days. TY!
https://blog.puffitup.com/2017/06/solo-2-the-teardown-we-take-vaporizers-apart-so-you-dont-have-to/
HashHead
New Member
I'm not a regular here but I do have a possible error 7 fix. Worked for me anyway.
I want to start by saying that Arizer customer service went above and beyond to help me out but for personal reasons I chose not to have my unit mailed in for repair. Considering that, I decided to take my Solo II apart initially to look for an obvious/fixable issue but found none. Next I wanted to disassemble it to disconnect power from the circuit board thinking that might allow things to reset.
I disassembled the unit completely without cutting any wires. I unplugged the battery, waited 10 minutes, plugged it back in then powered it up. No more "error 7"! I reassembled the unit except for installing the four screws that hold the heater in place and powered it up one more time. Still no "error 7" so I installed those four screws and powered it up again and the "error 7" was back.
That meant the problem was somewhere between the four wires exiting the circuit board and the bottom of the heater. Removing those four screws allowed the unit to work fine again. I should say here that I never actually laid eyes on an actual issue that caused the "error 7". However, I did notice a pattern while installing/uninstalling those same for screws numerous times that allowed me to very slightly modify the positioning of the wires that allow the unit to work flawlessly (so far) with the unit fully reassembled and being used normally.
Those four wires come out of the circuit board and pass through four rubber lined slots where they meet directly under the bottom of the heater where they are tied in a large knot. Directly above the knot all four wires appear to be rotationally twisted together in an unreasonably tight manner but it works so meh! Above that, all four wires pass individually through the bottom of what I suppose is a composite material that encloses the bottom of the heater where the wires connect.
The only way to get a look in there would be to cut the wires which I was not ready to do since my unit is still working under some circumstances. The wire used seems to be of a special type so I'd want to have some on hand before cutting the wires.
When fully assembled there are no moving parts at all except for the buttons. The only movement that would be possible in those wire would be from physical shock like dropping the unit, which I have never done, or the small but constant cycle of expansion and contraction every time the unit heats and cools could also crack any metal to metal connection on or near the heater. Looking at the circuit board indicates two wires power the heater and two wires appear to be thermostat related. I was actually drawing on my unit when the "error 7" occurred and shut off. Immediately before that my *botanicals* ignited (no bueno) even though the temp was set to 360F so I assume one of the thermostat wires/connections in the heater is the problem.
I noticed that installing the four screws that hold the heater on put considerable pressure on that knot of wires when fully tightened down. When I loosened them the error went away. I didn't want to leave them slightly loose because installing and removing glass would induce small movement of the wires each time that would definitely shorten lifespan.
My solution involved using some small screwdrivers and a small pair of needle-nose to gently manipulate that knot of wire so there was no pressure on it when fully bolted down. I could have used two extra hands but it took about a dozen attempts to get it right. I've been using it for three days now and it works just like new.
I'd love to know if this helps anyone out. Also, I'd be curious if that knot of wires and the very tight twist above then is part of the electrical design in some way. I suspect it might be for heat-sink reasons to prevent overheating but that is just a guess. I'd also like to know what the specs are on that wire if anyone knows. I assume it must be silver or platinum with special insulation for the high heat application.
One final tip, the best way to begin disassembly would be to gently pry up the window of the display area then remove the button. I just pulled out the interior assembly from the bottom sacrificing the foam gasket around the display.
I want to start by saying that Arizer customer service went above and beyond to help me out but for personal reasons I chose not to have my unit mailed in for repair. Considering that, I decided to take my Solo II apart initially to look for an obvious/fixable issue but found none. Next I wanted to disassemble it to disconnect power from the circuit board thinking that might allow things to reset.
I disassembled the unit completely without cutting any wires. I unplugged the battery, waited 10 minutes, plugged it back in then powered it up. No more "error 7"! I reassembled the unit except for installing the four screws that hold the heater in place and powered it up one more time. Still no "error 7" so I installed those four screws and powered it up again and the "error 7" was back.
That meant the problem was somewhere between the four wires exiting the circuit board and the bottom of the heater. Removing those four screws allowed the unit to work fine again. I should say here that I never actually laid eyes on an actual issue that caused the "error 7". However, I did notice a pattern while installing/uninstalling those same for screws numerous times that allowed me to very slightly modify the positioning of the wires that allow the unit to work flawlessly (so far) with the unit fully reassembled and being used normally.
Those four wires come out of the circuit board and pass through four rubber lined slots where they meet directly under the bottom of the heater where they are tied in a large knot. Directly above the knot all four wires appear to be rotationally twisted together in an unreasonably tight manner but it works so meh! Above that, all four wires pass individually through the bottom of what I suppose is a composite material that encloses the bottom of the heater where the wires connect.
The only way to get a look in there would be to cut the wires which I was not ready to do since my unit is still working under some circumstances. The wire used seems to be of a special type so I'd want to have some on hand before cutting the wires.
When fully assembled there are no moving parts at all except for the buttons. The only movement that would be possible in those wire would be from physical shock like dropping the unit, which I have never done, or the small but constant cycle of expansion and contraction every time the unit heats and cools could also crack any metal to metal connection on or near the heater. Looking at the circuit board indicates two wires power the heater and two wires appear to be thermostat related. I was actually drawing on my unit when the "error 7" occurred and shut off. Immediately before that my *botanicals* ignited (no bueno) even though the temp was set to 360F so I assume one of the thermostat wires/connections in the heater is the problem.
I noticed that installing the four screws that hold the heater on put considerable pressure on that knot of wires when fully tightened down. When I loosened them the error went away. I didn't want to leave them slightly loose because installing and removing glass would induce small movement of the wires each time that would definitely shorten lifespan.
My solution involved using some small screwdrivers and a small pair of needle-nose to gently manipulate that knot of wire so there was no pressure on it when fully bolted down. I could have used two extra hands but it took about a dozen attempts to get it right. I've been using it for three days now and it works just like new.
I'd love to know if this helps anyone out. Also, I'd be curious if that knot of wires and the very tight twist above then is part of the electrical design in some way. I suspect it might be for heat-sink reasons to prevent overheating but that is just a guess. I'd also like to know what the specs are on that wire if anyone knows. I assume it must be silver or platinum with special insulation for the high heat application.
One final tip, the best way to begin disassembly would be to gently pry up the window of the display area then remove the button. I just pulled out the interior assembly from the bottom sacrificing the foam gasket around the display.
Tranquility
Well-Known Member
I mentioned a high humidity flower I got. In order to vape it all the way, I had to stir.
I started simply trying a higher temp but that left a lot of charring. Then, I spent more time at my usual temps, but that left a lot of plant material that did not seem done.
The experiment finished, I think the best is to put it with some dessicant and use it at normal humidity. If not, you have to stir if you want a well-finished ABV.
I started simply trying a higher temp but that left a lot of charring. Then, I spent more time at my usual temps, but that left a lot of plant material that did not seem done.
The experiment finished, I think the best is to put it with some dessicant and use it at normal humidity. If not, you have to stir if you want a well-finished ABV.
WildChild
Seeking My Shangri-La
Not sure if this helps or not but I put a bit of organic cotton in the stem first before adding my herb. It's great for 'microdosing' and seems to work very well; even with weed that is a bit damp. Not sure if the cotton helps wick away moisture or not but I never have to stir. ...just a thought.
Just wanted say this is great vape.
Would anyone be interested in a accessory that would increase the solo2 diameter by like 1/2 inch and height by an inch or so?
I have an idea for a bubbler/vapor cooler/protectorcase
This is a very very loose idea that I've had for long time. I don't know I could make it a reality (and it would be a long time, as I need to learn how to make it.)
Edit: was thinking the added size would probably be around "small cup" size. I feel like the solo2 would make a great cup holder vape.
Sorry for the vague questions...
Would anyone be interested in a accessory that would increase the solo2 diameter by like 1/2 inch and height by an inch or so?
I have an idea for a bubbler/vapor cooler/protectorcase
This is a very very loose idea that I've had for long time. I don't know I could make it a reality (and it would be a long time, as I need to learn how to make it.)
Edit: was thinking the added size would probably be around "small cup" size. I feel like the solo2 would make a great cup holder vape.
Sorry for the vague questions...
HashHead
New Member
Hardly a genius but thanks. I was that kid who took apart all of his toys just to see how and why they worked. Been doing it all my life.
Given the known issues with the Solo II would you buy another? If not, what would you replace it with?
FWIW, I own two Arizer ExtremeQ's, this Solo II and I gave a Solo II to my best friend as a gift. He's had no issues with it. These are the only vapes I've ever used.
Wanted to add that the SoloII I repaired is still working and charging perfectly.
Tranquility
Well-Known Member
Me too! However, my record for getting things back together correctly was/is dismal.
WildChild
Seeking My Shangri-La
Ha! You and me both, Brother. My parents used to ban me from the tools. lol
I will be visiting a small Kitchwa settlement in the jungle near Tena, Ecuador this evening. I'm bringing my Solo II for a few of them to try. Some of these folks haven't traveled beyond a ten mile radius of their village in their entire lives. But I always learn very interesting things when spending time with them. Can't wait to see what they think of vaping! (For the record, they do smoke marijuana regularly).
Have a great weekend, everyone.
OF
Well-Known Member
As understand things that was normal for Western civilization (and most others) through the middle ages. Less than one percent traveled more than 25 miles from where they were born. Trade Unions (with 'Journeymen' who were actually expected to move around to perfect their crafts and then return and the Crusades started the change. Special cases, like the Roman Legions, and merchants existed but the average citizen was born, married, lived and died where his parents did.
The world changed when that did. A new normal.
Enjoy the trip, you never know, you might be about to be voted a god? Be kind to your subjects. You'll probably need a long extension cord...….
OF
