Anvil by Vestratto

[bhasma]

With a torch, the original and new DuraCore ovens perform equally, but the extra steel cladding of the DuraCore should improve its performance with an induction heater (can't wait for the Forge!) I prefer the original with a torch, however, as the bright spot that shows on the copper directly under the flame gives a good indication of heating intensity and position. I have often wondered why some believe that copper oxide somehow escapes from the heated metal, and perhaps the apparent burning off of the oxide layer under direct flame gives this impression, but the copper oxide is simply losing its oxygen and returning to pure copper. The only time copper is actually lost would be when the oxide layer is polished away in cleaning. Anyway, that's a material safety can of worms that I probably shouldn't reopen in this thread.
@Datoneguy, personally I wouldn't worry about minor scratches. Your Anvil should still work perfectly, and if you can't see exposed copper there is surely no danger. The Anvil oven is madly complicated to manufacture, and Vestratto can barely keep up with demand, but hopefully individual ovens will be available for sale again soon.

 

[Datoneguy]

Hey so going back on my word about silence and updating again, i figure i’ll update in the case of positive happenings from this point forward. It wouldn’t be fair to Vestratto not post that here as well imo.

No response for email about copper core, but they did respond to my request for info on my order from the end of July. I got an email back a couple hours later with tracking info. Canada post got it today and it’s estimated to arrive in a couple week. I know that’s a bit of a delay on shipment but I wanna say thank you to Vestratto for figuring out whatever happened to my order and getting it on route to me.

That’s all i’ll say for now, they responded, they fixed the problem and gave me info on shipping within that email response. It’s delayed but I have an idea of where it is now and that it’s heading my way, and that’s enough for me personally.
Shop app has also started updating now.

That’s one problem solved for now and i’ll take it. Thanks again to Vestratto for figuring this out today. I’ll update again when i get more updates on the other issue mentioned in my prior comments on the thread. Alright, peace.

 

[bhasma]

The condenser screen can be pushed out for cleaning, but the bowl screen is inaccessible from below and would need to be pulled out. I haven't tried removing the bowl screens and (if I did want to remove all traces of tarnish from the airpath) I'm not sure of the appropriate method. John mentioned a removal tool in an early Sunday Post but it hasn't eventuated. I am guessing that boiling the bowl in a vinegar solution would be the easiest way to remove any tarnish with the screen still in place.
Any advice on this?

 

[bhasma]

I just spent a few minutes cleaning my oldest bowl with Barkeepers Friend without removing the screen. And while the area under the screen couldn't actually be touched, I can now see bright metal behind the intake slots and glinting back through the screen. Perhaps unnecessary, but the old bowl sure looks nice! No removal tool required.

 

[Pepeluis33]

The condenser screen can be pushed out for cleaning, but the bowl screen is inaccessible from below and would need to be pulled out. I haven't tried removing the bowl screens and (if I did want to remove all traces of tarnish from the airpath) I'm not sure of the appropriate method. John mentioned a removal tool in an early Sunday Post but it hasn't eventuated. I am guessing that boiling the bowl in a vinegar solution would be the easiest way to remove any tarnish with the screen still in place.
Any advice on this?

I use this cheap lock pick from aliexpress to remove the screen. You simply insert into the screen slot and pull.

 

[Custom Flower Hardware]

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[Datoneguy]

Another update, received a response about sending the copper core to Vestratto, they provided the address to send it to this time.
Good stuff.

 

[Mndeadhead]

So I received my xl bowl, xl mouthpiece and WPA today. The WPA is awesome and all, but I’m amazed at the change in performance. I was fortunate enough to get in on the inductor beta. With the https://oracle.zoom.us/my/kenailes bowl, I can run it at 27, heat the middle, pull after the first click, and get an incredible experience. I feel really bad for my fusion. It’s awesome, but it’s getting less and less use now. I’m really liking this a lot now..I can switch back and forth between this and my hammer and be quite content

 

[Nebelmann]

The condenser screen can be pushed out for cleaning, but the bowl screen is inaccessible from below and would need to be pulled out.
Any advice on this?

A long thin wood skewer that is sold everywhere for kitchen stuff. Cost a few cents

 

[bhasma]

A long thin wood skewer

Yes, the condenser screen is simply pushed out with a skewer, but the bowl screen still needs a pulling tool, and a lock pick seems the best solution.

When the Anvil's airflow is restricted the heat is retained longer and a darker roast is obtained. At home I generally use the WPA, which has a fixed fully open air intake, and when the condenser screen needs cleaning I notice that the same technique produces a darker result, and while I may not notice the added draw resistance I am prompted to clean. After recently cleaning my tarnished bowl (often swabbed with iso but never "deep" cleaned) I was surprised to find (all else being equal) a lighter roast. So the apparently clean and unobstructed bowl screen must have developed a coating, imperceptibly reducing airflow over time. As mentioned previously, the bowl requires little attention, but don't wait a year before giving it a good scrub!

 

[btka]

I scorched my bowl clean last time…
Did not need to take off any screen or so…
But I am not sure how good this is for the clickers… but my bowl was very clean after that…

 

[RichardsBag]

I am not sure if this has been addressed in previous pages but was unable to find it. My anvil USA airflow ring doesn’t seem to fully close no matter how it is configured. Is this how it is supposed to work or is this a defective unit?
Anvil USA with AFC gap
AFC is fully closed in the picture and this is consistent from all angles/airports. I tried tightening anything that could be tightented but dont see a change.

 

[Petetbay]

Is this how it is supposed to work or is this a defective unit?

Not defective mine is the same, I would think that’s the way it’s suppose to work. It is the lowest air flow, I never realized there a gap there as I had tried to lower the air to zero, but there was always air flow.

 

[RichardsBag]

Not defective mine is the same, I would think that’s the way it’s suppose to work. It is the lowest air flow, I never realized there a gap there as I had tried to lower the air to zero, but there was always air flow.

Thank you! That is a huge relief. Someone on the official Reddit said it was not the same in their device and I was worried. I have been having a hard time replicating the hits I’ve seen others take and assumed it was a torch technique thing as I’d not looked into it it much. I can definitely feel the air getting in but am glad to know this is not abnormal.

I just received the XL and micro dose bowls + standard condenser I am attempting to a make a stem for. I am more than adequately invested in making this thing work now lol.

 

[bhasma]

Each version has a different air intake. The WPA is always wide open. The integrated stem has vertical slots and small holes that can each be covered but not both. The USA has vertical slots that can be hidden behind the oven posts and lower horizontal slots behind the base of the oven stem, and at maximum closure the openings are still just visible when you look at an angle. If the air intake was completely closed the Anvil would not function.

The vertical slots are slightly wider on the USA, and I think the horizontal slots are intended more for heat isolation than air intake, while the WPA is clearly designed for ripping on a water pipe.

 

[RichardsBag]

Each version has a different air intake. The WPA is always wide open. The integrated stem has vertical slots and small holes that can each be covered but not both. The USA has vertical slots that can be hidden behind the oven posts and lower horizontal slots behind the base of the oven stem, and at maximum closure the openings are still just visible when you look at an angle. If the air intake was completely closed the Anvil would not function.

The vertical slots are slightly wider on the USA, and I think the horizontal slots are intended more for heat isolation than air intake, while the WPA is clearly designed for ripping on a water pipe.

Awesome! Very good to know. Thank you for the run down. I just received the new bowls and a condenser. Any tips for either ?

 

[bhasma]

Perhaps a quick swab to make sure they are clean, but the electropolishing now used gives a near perfect finish. The Anvil works mainly by convection, although the XL bowl adds a bit more conduction, and the half bowl provides the least conduction, and the standard full bowl is intermediate. Enjoy!

 

[bhasma]

I have been having a hard time replicating the hits I’ve seen others take and assumed it was a torch technique thing

I use a single flame torch with a half inch inner blue flame tip making a quarter inch bright copper spot centred on the lower heat distribution ring (light roast) or the thermal battery (dark roast) with clicks at about 30 seconds for tasty clouds every time.

 

[RichardsBag]

I use a single flame torch with a half inch inner blue flame tip making a quarter inch bright copper spot centred on the lower heat distribution ring (light roast) or the thermal battery (dark roast) with clicks at about 30 seconds for tasty clouds every time.

Thank you!

 

[bhasma]

Heating higher on the oven is very tasty but with less vapour and likely needing another cycle. Each of the bowls should work well with the same basic technique, with only very slight changes to flame intensity, heating position, airflow adjustment, perhaps needed to dial in your perfect hit. I don't usually push the Anvil to the limit, but RTL methods have often been discussed in this thread.

 

[RichardsBag]

Heating higher on the oven is very tasty but with less vapour and likely needing another cycle. Each of the bowls should work well with the same basic technique, with only very slight changes to flame intensity, heating position, airflow adjustment, perhaps needed to dial in your perfect hit. I don't usually push the Anvil to the limit, but RTL methods have often been discussed in this thread.

Great thank you! I have been combusting lately while waiting for the second click. It started with the micro dose bowl and then head the same issue with the XL. Do they click once or twice?

I have all kinds of butane devices so this reeks of user error. Can the bowls be cleaned in Iso after combusting?
I am also used to BFG clicks where the click is more of a suggestion.

Thanks again for all the help. Can’t wait to get things dialed in.

 

[Mndeadhead]

Great thank you! I have been combusting lately while waiting for the second click. It started with the micro dose bowl and then head the same issue with the XL. Do they click once or twice?

I have all kinds of butane devices so this reeks of user error. Can the bowls be cleaned in Iso after combusting?
I am also used to BFG clicks where the click is more of a suggestion.

Thanks again for all the help. Can’t wait to get things dialed in.

They click twice. Wonder if you are heating it so aggressively that they are clicking at the same time? I have a Dani as well. I can hammer that with a huge torch, but if i try to go too big with the Anvil, I end up combusting as well. I have decided for myself that I don't need to RTL - thats what I have a ball vape for. I have been aiming low, but still above the little gap, and don't have problems with combusting anymore. For me, I was either packing too tight or not hitting hard enough, all I know is I got damn tired of cleaning that thing every time I combusted. With the XL mouthpiece, Its cool enough to hit natively and gives me a foldgers coffee color. I could probably go in for another, but 95% of the time, I combust when I go back in.ISO is fine, just watch the o-rings. Once i managed to get mine dialed in, my poor Dani gets very love these days.

 

[bhasma]

There are two clicks and their separation is another indicator of heating intensity. As Mndeadhead mentioned, simultaneous clicking would mean way too aggressive heating. Using the method described, I don't think that's the case and more likely that you are missing the first click, which can sometimes be weak when heating slowly or muffled when the clicker is stuck against the top of its housing (in which case just tap the cap and it will fall back into place). I have only combusted once, and that was when I missed the first click, so now I count the time after I hear a click just to make sure. Each bowl may have a slightly different timing, but if a second click doesn't happen within about four seconds I am wary and stop heating. If it is close to clicking again that will occur anyway as the stored heat continues to heat the bowl.

 

[Mndeadhead]

Personally, I always quit after the first click. It just gets there, and I feel it keeps me from
Combusting

 

[bhasma]

Depending on personal taste and technique, the first click indicates that the Anvil is ready to go (more flavour) and the second indicates the limit (more vapour). There should never be any need to heat beyond the second click. Perhaps the sweet spot is when the second click comes just after heating has ceased.