A little tip: If the screen in the condenser is replaced by this one (https://www.amazon.com/Titanium-Pipe-Screens-Up-Smoke/dp/B01CZ35UQS) it stays clean longer and it doesn't turn dark. But it's only for tinkerers because the diameter of the sieve has to be adjusted with a file in order to use it. Press flat, reduce diameter and insert.
Thanks dude! I think will keep messaging till something happens. Sent my third email today. Just gotta be persistent i suppose. But agreed, if it was a $100 vape, i’d feel a little less bothered, but this puppy is a pricey piece imo, and my $50 vapcap ms from 5 years ago haven’t had something like this before. Can’t help but compare the price there along with the issues experienced personally.It's really a shame to see parts with such errors reaching the customer. That also reminds me of the new DV amored cap where the beak was too long and touched the stem. Always ask me how can that be... I have to say about the Anvil if I had developed it, I would have gone for pure silver instead of copper, even if the conductivity and storage of heat, as I once saw in a table that John published, was a bit lower is, silver has no negative influence but even a positive one because it has an antibacterial effect. I would keep trying to contact Vestratto this type of error should be replaced. Much luck!
Also, sorry that you got some parts with similiar issues. I hope you are able to get those replaced as well.I received a USA kit with similar blemish in the cap, and a weird brown ring around the condensor as well. I thought it was resin on the condenser (I used it one or twice before noticing) but the cap blemish was defintily there at the start. I ignored it but tagging this as it seems to be a bigger issue than just my order.
As long as there is no safety risk I’m not too worried about it. I may send them an email to see if it’s a known thing but the blemish on my cap is minor and seems cosmetic.Also, sorry that you got some parts with similiar issues. I hope you are able to get those replaced as well.
Clever! I love finding little solutions like that. Thanks for sharingI've found a more practical way to use the spoon I was originally using to fill the bowls:
Watch Turn Anvil bowl into scoop | Streamable
Watch "Turn Anvil bowl into scoop" on Streamable.streamable.com
Gonna give this a try! I place my bowl on the magnet in my BCG and use a TRWW scoop. No messI've found a more practical way to use the spoon I was originally using to fill the bowls:
Watch Turn Anvil bowl into scoop | Streamable
Watch "Turn Anvil bowl into scoop" on Streamable.streamable.com
Question, how do you guys follow shipping to the states? Shop has been frozen for a few days now. Also, how long was shipping for anyone in california or usa more broadly? Im at 2 weeks atm and am not sure what kind of wait to expect here.
Btw, positive note, they said i could pay to ship coppercore back to get replaced. Still waiting for more details on the process but its better than having to buy a whole new part, so im hopeful about getting the anvil back in working condition at some point
What is that?!
Gotcha, so maybe next week it will come on and it’s just taking a bit longer.I’m in SoCal, it was about a week or two IIRC. I think they give you a Canada Post tracking number, which should work until it gets to US customs. After that, you should be able to track via USPS. At least that’s how it was last time I ordered something from them.
Gotcha, so maybe next week it will come on and it’s just taking a bit longer.
Do you know where they gave you that tracking number?
So far i’ve gotten one email of my order confirmed and the items listed and then another email that linked me to the shop app. Haven’t seen any traditional tracking numbers that i can search out myself.
I know when i originally bought an anvil, that the tracking number was sent to me at some point along with the shop app link, i just cant remember how or where i found that number last time around. I don’t see a number in my emails, maybe the shop app has it?
One more thing, is there a performance difference between duracore and copper core? Since im gonna be waiting anyways on copper core replacement and new parts i ordered, im thinking about asking for a duracore to see if they’d be willing to ship that back instead. For me specifically, i’d love a little less copper exposed even if it’s debatable if it even matters or not. As long as it performs the same.
Gotcha, thanks for the info, im starting to think my order from a couple weeks ago has yet to ship at all then lol. That makes sense why i can’t find a number and shop has been frozen from the start without movement yet.I got a tracking number e-mailed to me when my order shipped.
I don't think there's going to be a performance difference between the two ovens.
As fan of deep cleaning, I asked @Datoneguy how did he managed to clean so well the condenser since this is the part that gets dirtier and I think is worth to share:Gotcha, thanks for the info, im starting to think my order from a couple weeks ago has yet to ship at all then lol. That makes sense why i can’t find a number and shop has been frozen from the start without movement yet.
And that’s great to hear, hopefully they’ll let me make that switch when shipping back my damaged core for a replacement.
One last note, i cleaned my condensor with brown coloration (picture in my post on the prior page) and was able to get more of it clean (still not all though), but i also found a layer of black coloration on that same part after removing more of the brown layer, and that black layer won’t come off. Anyone know what the layer of black is on the condensor if they have that? Is it safe to vape from? Im thinking maybe it’s something from machining process but idk, pretty sure it’s not resin but the brown layer likelyat least partially is (not sure about the brown rings that go around the entire circle though) Here's three pics I took.
Wowzers. I’ve gotta try this. Also, good to know it’s likely the black coloration will come off too with this method or that the coloration isn’t uncommon for people.As fan of deep cleaning, I asked @Datoneguy how did he managed to clean so well the condenser since this is the part that gets dirtier and I think is worth to share:
Yo, so still have some stuff on it.
But what i found was holding the condensor in a very shallow pool of iso for a couple mins or 5-10 mins if your patient is a good start. I hold it there because i dont want the o-rings to get soaked.
Then i took a paper towel and would take the condenser out of the iso. Then i do my best to wrap the paper towel around it Then either spin the paper towel in circles around the condensor or i would make the paper towel wrap around the metwl lightly before spinning it in circles, or you could spin both in the opposite direction. Then i would dip in iso for 10-30 second and so it again, then i would just keep dipping it inso for a few seconds and repeating paper towel process. You can also out iso on paper towe if you want, just found it to dry too fast to be worth it.
So in summary, iso soak and a paper towel to wipe it off. Still a pain in the butt, but worked better than everything else i tried (mainly qtips).
That's a smart way to clean it! definitely better than qtips. Additionally, I've found a way to improve this and reduce the clean time to 1 min:
Just add to the papel towel a couple of drips of water, a pinch of baking soda, then wrap condenser head and spin. Press firmly with finger tip/nail while spinning. After just 1 min it comes spotless:
This was almost black before:
Nothing abrasive with 0000 steel wool fellaI'd use an angle grinder myself. Just kidding. Just curious why you want to rough up the metal with abrasives. But then I never deep clean.
Anyway: why?Nothing abrasive with 0000 steel wool fella
What do you mean? 0000 won't scratch up the metal if that's what your getting at, any courser steel wool will though.Anyway: why?