Anvil by Vestratto

btka

btka

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Can someone tell me which material and size the o-rings for the anvil are… I tried to clean my anvil yesterday and when I tried to push out the condenser one of the orings get destroyed.. I could put the condenser with the remaining 2 orings back…

If I would order them somewhere in Europe in a online shop I would have to pay a lot for shipping…

I still can not understand why @Vestratto did not put some orings and screens for free in the package… it is not a cheap vape… I assume such things cost only some cents… and until now most of the vapes I bought did come with some spare parts (especially wear an tear parts)… this would not cost a lot and make the consumer very happy if they need them…

And I also have a question Regarding concentrates… I wrapped them before in rayon but now I can only find „vape“ cotton (for e-cigs) can I use them instead of Rayon, hope will not burn/scorch..

Otherwise I am very happy with the anvil…
 
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btka,
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Tji89

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You can use unbleached cotton for ecigs. Many people like Japanese muji cotton, I've been using it for hash.
 
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leanpubpackage

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btka said:
Can someone tell me which material and size the o-rings for the anvil are… I tried to clean my anvil yesterday and when I tried to push out the condenser one of the orings get destroyed.. I could put the condenser with the remaining 2 orings back…

If I would order them somewhere in Europe in a online shop I would have to pay a lot for shipping…

I still can not understand why @Vestratto did not put some orings and screens for free in the package… it is not a cheap vape… I assume such things cost only some cents… and until now most of the vapes I bought did come with some spare parts (especially wear an tear parts)… this would not cost a lot and make the consumer very happy if they need them…

And I also have a question Regarding concentrates… I wrapped them before in rayon but now I can only find „vape“ cotton (for e-cigs) can I use them instead of Rayon, hope will not burn/scorch..

Otherwise I am very happy with the anvil…
Click to expand...
agree with you. vestratto has the oring sizing on their website, within the oring product page
 
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bhasma

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The heating method I described above works well with a PB-207, Aomai, Vapman or similar torch, and to a certain extent the intensity of different torches can be matched by adjusting to make the same bright copper area, but more powerful torches will require more care.

Dynavap's Omni is $199 and Simrell's XL Hyper 9 is $210, and neither come with extra o-rings. The Anvil at $229 is comparably priced (and better value) and each company sells o-ring packs. Free things are nice, but I don't expect them.

I hadn't thought about pushing the whole condenser out from below, but the spiral filter would get in the way, and the WPA covers the end of the condenser leaving nothing to push. Pulling the condenser out with the oven (with a slight twist to ease the oven from the stem, but never grinding metal) is more appropriate.
 
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bhasma

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condition said:


Click to expand...
The outside of the condenser is not in the vapour path and mine never looks like this. Some backflow occurs when the Anvil is dropped into a water pipe, so I always heat it in place. Also when your draw finishes and the water flows back, so I always lift it out as this happens.
 
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bhasma

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Using the heat tarnish on the bowl as a rough indication of maximum temperature during repeated heating cycles, the clicker housing and threads (and the base of the XL bowl) reach somewhere between 200°C and 230°C. Beyond the thermal break of the air inlets to around the base of the full bowl it seems to reach about 180°C and beyond that (most of the full bowl and all of the half bowl) the steel remains untarnished and never exceeds 170°C.

Everything about the Anvil is functional, with heat shield colours the only concession to cosmetic concerns. The dimensions of the thermal battery, heat distribution rings etc. were all chosen for a reason, and I was surprised to see Simrell (on Twitch) and others here modifying the oven for cosmetic or supposed performance improvements. To my mind the precisely engineered thermal circuitry of the Anvil is perfect as it is. As a tasty microdoser or heavy hitting beast, the Anvil just works. Thankyou John @Vestratto
 
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bhasma

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The calibration procedure is described in a Sunday Post and the snap discs are matched to within three or four degrees, with 225-228°C given as an example, but the true activation temperature is proprietary. When cleaning the bowl with Barkeepers Friend I tried to avoid getting the fine abrasive into the clicker housing (not sure how easily it washes out) so the visible disc retains its tarnish, and the golden temper of a well used clicker seems to suggest a slightly lower temperature.

And an important point (well known but easily missed by new users) is the seating of the condenser. As the bowl is screwed down it should seal closely with the condenser which itself remains raised from the base of the oven. So always insert the condenser with the bowl in place and the condenser will automatically end up in the correct position. Don't over fill the herb chamber and perhaps tamp it down slightly to leave clearance for the two pieces to seal properly and to avoid pushing the condenser out of place restricting or blocking air intake.
 
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Fox

Fox

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bhasma said:
The calibration procedure is described in a Sunday Post and the snap discs are matched to within three or four degrees, with 225-228°C given as an example, but the true activation temperature is proprietary. When cleaning the bowl with Barkeepers Friend I tried to avoid getting the fine abrasive into the clicker housing (not sure how easily it washes out) so the visible disc retains its tarnish, and the golden temper of a well used clicker seems to suggest a slightly lower temperature.

And an important point (well known but easily missed by new users) is the seating of the condenser. As the bowl is screwed down it should seal closely with the condenser which itself remains raised from the base of the oven. So always insert the condenser with the bowl in place and the condenser will automatically end up in the correct position. Don't over fill the herb chamber and perhaps tamp it down slightly to leave clearance for the two pieces to seal properly and to avoid pushing the condenser out of place restricting or blocking air intake.
Click to expand...
Yes, the seat of the capacitor is such a thing. I made a stop with a titanium tube.
 
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bhasma

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Fox said:
I made a stop with a titanium tube.
Click to expand...
I assume that your condenser stop sits in the stem, replacing the spiral filter. Perhaps this would help assembly without fitting the bowl, and maybe it allows for overfilling the bowl without disturbing the condenser, but the normal method (described above) works perfectly. If overfilling is the problem, use a bigger bowl. Is 0.2 gm insufficient capacity?
 
bhasma,
Fox

Fox

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bhasma said:
I assume that your condenser stop sits in the stem, replacing the spiral filter. Perhaps this would help assembly without fitting the bowl, and maybe it allows for overfilling the bowl without disturbing the condenser, but the normal method (described above) works perfectly. If overfilling is the problem, use a bigger bowl. Is 0.2 gm insufficient capacity?Yes
Click to expand...
Yes the pipe replaces the spiral filter. The spiral filter is a bit too short so that the condenser can slide too deep. My pipe is made in such a way that the bowl seals 100% with the condenser. I have always avoided overfilling. The spiral filter can be lengthened a little if it is turned up a bit with two pliers to help. My filter is approximately 1-2mm too short to serve as a stop.
 
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bhasma

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Fox said:
Yes the pipe replaces the spiral filter. The spiral filter is a bit too short so that the condenser can slide too deep.
Click to expand...
My condensers fit quite snugly and without extra pressure they remain in place. The bowl should screw in freely, but gets noticeably tighter as excess herb or sticky edges push against the condenser. If the condenser slips down too easily then your stop is a solution, but maybe a new set of o-rings would help.
 
bhasma,
Fox

Fox

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bhasma said:
My condensers fit quite snugly and without extra pressure they remain in place. The bowl should screw in freely, but gets noticeably tighter as excess herb or sticky edges push against the condenser. If the condenser slips down too easily then your stop is a solution, but maybe a new set of o-rings would help.
Click to expand...
Yes, I tried the idea with the O rings, but it made no difference after a few loads, the seal was no longer 100% and the condenser collected dirt on the outside again. My first solution was to use a spring and now this tube. It is now always tight and the condenser stays clean on the outside. By the way, I've just tried the idea of turning the spiral filter apart, but it's not possible to lengthen it.
 
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Comfortably Numb

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Fox said:
Yes, I tried the idea with the O rings, but it made no difference after a few loads, the seal was no longer 100% and the condenser collected dirt on the outside again. My first solution was to use a spring and now this tube. It is now always tight and the condenser stays clean on the outside. By the way, I've just tried the idea of turning the spiral filter apart, but it's not possible to lengthen it.
Click to expand...
do you have any beads you could use as spacers? You might could buy a longer filter and cut it down...you might contact The Rouge Waxworks..he sells the spiral filters and may even make them so he would be the one I would contact
 
Comfortably Numb,
Fox

Fox

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Comfortably Numb said:
do you have any beads you could use as spacers? You might could buy a longer filter and cut it down...you might contact The Rouge Waxworks..he sells the spiral filters and may even make them so he would be the one I would contact
Click to expand...
Thank you for the tips! It will stay with the setup it is now. I always use the anvil with a water filter and there is no need for a spiral filter. It's good to stop worrying about whether the condenser is in the right position, that was the goal.
 
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Comfortably Numb

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Fox said:
Thank you for the tips! It will stay with the setup it is now. I always use the anvil with a water filter and there is no need for a spiral filter. It's good to stop worrying about whether the condenser is in the right position, that was the goal.
Click to expand...
sorry...quoted wrong guy
 
Comfortably Numb,
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bhasma

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The standard Anvil fits well in a water pipe but for exclusive WP usage the WPA is perhaps more appropriate. The WPA provides maximum airflow and needs less cleaning, and there is very little chance of condenser slippage. If airflow control is required then the USA attached to another adaptor is a good option. An intermediate adaptor of some kind helps to keep the WP clean and a passthrough adaptor will help to reduce any backflow. Resin seeps down the condenser and eventually accumulates at the base of the WPA where it is easily wiped away. With more accumulation the condenser is simply swabbed with an iso dipped cotton bud. I can usually swab the condenser a couple of times before the screen finally needs cleaning and disassembly is required. Without backflow or a leaking chamber the oven itself stays clean, and polishing away any tarnish is a personal choice. A shiny oven looks nice but I usually can't wait for some oxidation to return since the lack of oxide makes my heating procedure (watching the bright spot) less certain.

There is so much in this thread! The posts by PlanetHaze, Vestratto and Whiff explain almost everything. The Sunday Posts and ItsWhiff videos explain everything again. And Sneaky Pete's reviews, especially his interview with John, are also very informative. Not much more to say. Happy vaping!!
 
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bhasma

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Following up on comments by @RedZep in the Tempest thread:

To switch Anvil bowl sizes you have to buy new chambers instead of a screen adjustment (Tempest)

An Anvil with all three bowls is $299 (slightly more than a Tempest) but then switching bowls is more convenient than adjusting screen positions.

The 0.1g bowl on Anvil is too small, yet the Anvil stem struggles to cool that amount sufficiently for native use. Which is why many use the Revolve stem on the Anvil.

I find the Anvil stem's cooling quite sufficient for the standard 0.1g bowl, and the Revolve stem works well but can rob too much flavour.

The 0.2g Anvil bowl compromises the airspace behind the chamber, increasing draw restriction.

The lettering of the Anvil's XL bowl air intake is more open than the standard CCD compensating for the extra draw restriction of a larger load.

The Anvil can't be heated too fast otherwise it combusts. A design flaw of having the heater wrapped around the herb

The Forge IH heats the Anvil in under 15 seconds without combustion and the bowl is well insulated from the surrounding oven.

The Anvil has a torch sweet spot that is quite demanding. The torch has to be a certain type, flame size, distance etc, otherwise you risk combustion.

The Anvil can be heated with various torches, but more care is required with more intense flames. If the clicks are respected, the main consideration is how much extra heat is being stored in the thermal battery, and heating the battery (not the oven) too fast can overwhelm the device leading to combustion.

I can't wait to try the Tempest, but I don't agree with the Anvil's supposed flaws.
 
Duba

Duba

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Accessory Maker
bhasma said:
I can't wait to try the Tempest, but I don't agree with the Anvil's supposed flaws.
Click to expand...
The only thing wrong with the Anvil is that sometimes I'm too high:rofl:
Mine works perfectly since the 1st day with incredible reliability and consistency
IMG-20230825-113736.jpg
 
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bhasma

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The Anvil's thermal battery is unlike any similar devices. It is designed to store thermal energy without itself heating the incoming air or the herb. The Thermal Accumulator and the Tempest have plenty of thermal mass but it is the heat stored in the balls that directly heats the air. Dynavap describes the cooling fins of the Vong as a thermal battery, but the placement (below the bowl and directly connected to the stem) is inappropriate for significant heat storage. And I've seen Simrell's FMJ described as a thermal battery, but if so it is more of a short circuit (perhaps a "lame imitation"). The thermal circuitry of the Anvil is quite unique, and misunderstanding the significance and function of the battery can lead to combustion and other heating problems.
 
Fox

Fox

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