Advanced E-cig users and oil/wax, how-to "one-hitter-quitter"
- Thread starter TrueNorthStar
- Start date
ColoVaper
Science...Whoo!
I would be hesitant to use those. That chemistry is not as safe as IMR and will vent fire if they fail. I think they have about a 4A max and I wouldn't really want to test that.
That's just me jumping out on a limb though.
Last edited:
2clicker
Observer
hey when i was taking my ProTank 2 apart last night it dawned on me... that the ProTanks could be used in a manor that we are using these RDAs. as a solid EO atomizer. basically just remove the top tube of the coil head before (or after) installing. then you could unscrew the PT from its base (leaving the base on your mod), load your oil directly onto the coil, replace the top, and vape away.
because the PTs are glass this appeals to me. this lets to see the vapor build up inside. also, you can rebuild the PT coil heads or just buy them new if you prefer. they are cheap so much better than having to buy Dabbler or similar heads. i have a bunch of old PT coil heads soaking in iso for rebuilding. as soon as i get my ceramic wick i am going to try this out at about 1.8ohms. i suppose i will need a thinner kanthal than 28 gauge? what gauge does Kanger use for their coil heads... anyone know?
oh and i should be able to use my red Efest 18350s with a 1.8ohm coil yes? i always have used them with my ProTanks running 1.8-2.5ohms.
because the PTs are glass this appeals to me. this lets to see the vapor build up inside. also, you can rebuild the PT coil heads or just buy them new if you prefer. they are cheap so much better than having to buy Dabbler or similar heads. i have a bunch of old PT coil heads soaking in iso for rebuilding. as soon as i get my ceramic wick i am going to try this out at about 1.8ohms. i suppose i will need a thinner kanthal than 28 gauge? what gauge does Kanger use for their coil heads... anyone know?
oh and i should be able to use my red Efest 18350s with a 1.8ohm coil yes? i always have used them with my ProTanks running 1.8-2.5ohms.
Haywood
Onward Thru the Fog
A 1.3Ω coil with a 4.0V source will draw 3.08 amps.
A 1.8Ω coil with a 4.0V source will draw 2.22 amps.
Now the battery will actually only be able to supply 4.0V for maybe a minute or two before that kind of load will cause it's voltage to drop below 4.0V, and indeed, most of the time the battery will be supplying between 3.8V and 3.6V, which will cause the current to be between 2.9 amps (3.8V, 1.3Ω coil) and 2.0 amps (3.6V, 1.8Ω coil).
So you need a battery that is rated at 4 amps to be sure, and you could probably get away with one that is only rated to supply 3 amps (though that's pushing it a little). If your AW "IC" battery is protected, it won't deliver 4.0V in any case (there's a voltage drop in the protection circuit).
Got both (1/16 and 1/32) ceramic wicks in the mail yesterday, just waiting for the two Mini PT3's and a couple of ceramic tweezers to show up now...
btw:
V= √(WR) or W/I or IR
W= EI or I2R or E2/R
I= E/R or W/E or √(W/R)
R= E/I or E2/W or W/I2
A 1.8Ω coil with a 4.0V source will draw 2.22 amps.
Now the battery will actually only be able to supply 4.0V for maybe a minute or two before that kind of load will cause it's voltage to drop below 4.0V, and indeed, most of the time the battery will be supplying between 3.8V and 3.6V, which will cause the current to be between 2.9 amps (3.8V, 1.3Ω coil) and 2.0 amps (3.6V, 1.8Ω coil).
So you need a battery that is rated at 4 amps to be sure, and you could probably get away with one that is only rated to supply 3 amps (though that's pushing it a little). If your AW "IC" battery is protected, it won't deliver 4.0V in any case (there's a voltage drop in the protection circuit).
Got both (1/16 and 1/32) ceramic wicks in the mail yesterday, just waiting for the two Mini PT3's and a couple of ceramic tweezers to show up now...
btw:
V= √(WR) or W/I or IR
W= EI or I2R or E2/R
I= E/R or W/E or √(W/R)
R= E/I or E2/W or W/I2
DabComa
Stuck in Dab Coma
Wow I am definitely going to play with that idea one I get home, the immediate problem that comes to mind is the fact that the airflow is supplied by the center hole below the coil and we all know from experience that our precious product flows south when heated, so that would lead me to believe gunking up would become in issue fast, like the second packing fast, maybe one of these ceramic dishes from the globe atty will fit into the housing for the protank.
But, I can vouch that 28g will fit and work, you just have to make sure no part of the coil touches the housing or you will have problems. An ohm meter is an absolute must in this application.
Edit: ok so I gave it a shot wrapped a 1.3 ohm 28 g kanthal, in the protank 3 loaded up my erl and got an ok hit, but compared to my igo-w the draw is way too tight, and the smoke is thin not dense, not satisfied with it initially, but the idea is novel, would be nice to have one PT with e fluid and another for erl, further increasing stealth on the go. More tinkering to go I guess.
Last edited:
2clicker
Observer
ok so i have successfully dabbed from my PT2 and it was great! so i took my clean PT2, screwed in a new kanger 2.2ohm coil head (only new one i had at the time. was collecting dust), pulled the top tube part that covers the coil off (easily done after head is installed. just apply a little pressure at an angle and it pops right out) and the pretty white silica top wick was exposed. i removed the top wick and the coil and wick were right there inside the SS cup. looked just like those ceramic cups with wicks in them (like BHOLT or Globe atty). so i loaded her up, screwed the tank assembly back on, and gave it a ride. and boy she did not dissapoint! i got extremely tasty vapor. much tastier than my current IGO-L/SS wick set up. the coil was reading 2.21 on my meter so i expecting more ramp up time. i did not notice any wait at all. it just started spewing vapor. i did a couple of dabs of my good run and a couple of my second and not as clean run. all of it vaped very well. once i gave it a nice 4 second rip and was pulsing it after that... big mistake. it destroyed me
. i havent had any burning tastes yet so i think the silica is still in decent shape. i am going to attempt rebuilding one of these as soon as my 3mm ceramic wick gets here. hopefully i can squeeze it in there. may help keep things from heading south. btw in that regard... there is a small layer of condensed oil around the hold below the coil, but i pulled out the pin and it is still bone dry. so after 4 BB sized loads not enough has accumulated to be a problem. i will be keeping my eye on this. so far i am REALLY liking this setup. what i really like is that you can see the rip building up inside just like you could with the BHOLT glass tube. rebuilding may still be a problem. we will see how hard that is. im going to watch some videos on it tonight. i am going to have to hold up on my stash until the ceramic gets here. or do another run soon...
i will aslo be building a coil with ceramic for use with ejmixed oil.
walrus
Well-Known Member
Rebuilding protank coils is easy once you get the hang of it. 3mm wick is little fat to fit in there easily but it can be done. I would think you will get clogging eventually from dabbing off of the protank head. I would fire it upside down every so often to heat up and vape away anything that has built up below the coil.
2clicker
Observer
i always thought that would happen with my BHOLT attys. they have a center hole from the bottom up through the ceramic cup. i put grams through the one i took apart the other day. no signs of leaking. i imagine its going to take a lot of use to eventually clog or leak. at that point you could have a new coil ready to go.
yeah i ordered the 3mm wick before i had the protank idea. it was for my IGO-L. if its too much for the PT head then i will quickly order a foot of the 2mm. or maybe it will aid in keeping oil from leaking.
are those that are using the braided ceramic wick... are you boiling it such as RDASupplies.com suggests?
walrus
Well-Known Member
I did when I first got it. Didn't see a huge difference visually but I never worked with it before boiling so I don't really know how it affects it.
fernand
Well-Known Member
Ah, @2clicker, we're exploring similar corners. What I've found so far is that I can't bring myself to drop a lot of fine concentrate in the various coil assembles. Not that they leak out the bottom, they don't. Stuff solidifies before it's leaking out the bottom hole. But it flows off the coil and is kinda wasted. I haven't found the perfect one.
The Sapphire Bud "atomizer" that's really a bad e-cig clearo, evidently works great with slightly thinned oil, since it's what O-Pen-Vape uses. It's what @Haywood uses with Liquid Gold through airports and all.
The little Seego VHIT has a little cap with chimney you unscrew, and there's the coil in a ceramic cup. There's no place for anything to leak, and the not insignificant oil that condenses in the cap is accessible. If you dab onto the coil and close it back up, you get a couple of monster hits (I do testify!). The only thing is that you sort of need to feed the coil, so if you're not into manually slapping some on the coil, maybe fill the cup? That's a lot o' wax for me. Do you just have to immerse the coil, like with an e-cig rig?
What electric dab I've liked best by far so far for oil is using an electric portable vape with a "pad". Like the B&S Volcano "Easy valve" 30 mm stainless steel "liquid pad", unfolded then cut and folded back up into say 3 smaller pucks. They work in the Solo. They work in the FireFly, and they should work in others. The Solo maintains very even temp in the glass stem, and vaporizes a dab off the SS wire wad at exactly the temp you dial in. Zero waste, zero. The temp maxes out, at 7, i.e. around 450 in the stem. I like it, in fact it's a nice vape on 6.
I'm also dutifully checking out the traditional gold standard, the Ti nail with a big motha propane torch. First of all, we must admit we are powerless, that the little butane torches are just frustrating. And silly, and expensive. Home Depot has the real deal, $14.99 tank and all. And though it perhaps looks a bit cracky, it just works. With one of the new 5 piece "universal" domeless nails that sits on a male or female, 14 or 18 mm header, it's awesome.
I measured the nail temp as best I could with my new IR temp gun. It's hard to get exact numbers because temps keeps changing and using the IR Gun requires mastering a lot of details, like the variable Emissivity of materials, of dulled vs. shiny metals, and the parallax error of the red laser, which isn't in the temp circuits at all, just a rough pointer. For close-up, it's the cavity with the white plastic dome that needs to be pointed at the object.
So what I found is that this Titanium nail, after heating to red, i.e. over 1000 deg F, drops quickly down to around 650 then sits around 550 for a long time. By the time the dab is hitting the nail, it's really not THAT hot, but it's a very even say 550 deg F, maybe 600, when it flash-vaporizes the whole dab. The center threaded pipe holds a lot of heat, so make it protrude a bit, you can pick up some 500 deg heat even when the platform itself is down to around 400. But it's evenly distributed, a far cry from a glowing resistance wire over 1000 deg in a little cup that's at 250. That's what I think is wrong with the pens.
Anyway, this settles the issue for me, that a Ti Nail does have a most useful thermal behavior, and flash vaporizes concentrate evenly around 550 degrees.
The Sapphire Bud "atomizer" that's really a bad e-cig clearo, evidently works great with slightly thinned oil, since it's what O-Pen-Vape uses. It's what @Haywood uses with Liquid Gold through airports and all.
The little Seego VHIT has a little cap with chimney you unscrew, and there's the coil in a ceramic cup. There's no place for anything to leak, and the not insignificant oil that condenses in the cap is accessible. If you dab onto the coil and close it back up, you get a couple of monster hits (I do testify!). The only thing is that you sort of need to feed the coil, so if you're not into manually slapping some on the coil, maybe fill the cup? That's a lot o' wax for me. Do you just have to immerse the coil, like with an e-cig rig?
What electric dab I've liked best by far so far for oil is using an electric portable vape with a "pad". Like the B&S Volcano "Easy valve" 30 mm stainless steel "liquid pad", unfolded then cut and folded back up into say 3 smaller pucks. They work in the Solo. They work in the FireFly, and they should work in others. The Solo maintains very even temp in the glass stem, and vaporizes a dab off the SS wire wad at exactly the temp you dial in. Zero waste, zero. The temp maxes out, at 7, i.e. around 450 in the stem. I like it, in fact it's a nice vape on 6.
I'm also dutifully checking out the traditional gold standard, the Ti nail with a big motha propane torch. First of all, we must admit we are powerless, that the little butane torches are just frustrating. And silly, and expensive. Home Depot has the real deal, $14.99 tank and all. And though it perhaps looks a bit cracky, it just works. With one of the new 5 piece "universal" domeless nails that sits on a male or female, 14 or 18 mm header, it's awesome.
I measured the nail temp as best I could with my new IR temp gun. It's hard to get exact numbers because temps keeps changing and using the IR Gun requires mastering a lot of details, like the variable Emissivity of materials, of dulled vs. shiny metals, and the parallax error of the red laser, which isn't in the temp circuits at all, just a rough pointer. For close-up, it's the cavity with the white plastic dome that needs to be pointed at the object.
So what I found is that this Titanium nail, after heating to red, i.e. over 1000 deg F, drops quickly down to around 650 then sits around 550 for a long time. By the time the dab is hitting the nail, it's really not THAT hot, but it's a very even say 550 deg F, maybe 600, when it flash-vaporizes the whole dab. The center threaded pipe holds a lot of heat, so make it protrude a bit, you can pick up some 500 deg heat even when the platform itself is down to around 400. But it's evenly distributed, a far cry from a glowing resistance wire over 1000 deg in a little cup that's at 250. That's what I think is wrong with the pens.
Anyway, this settles the issue for me, that a Ti Nail does have a most useful thermal behavior, and flash vaporizes concentrate evenly around 550 degrees.
Last edited:
DabComa
Stuck in Dab Coma
Can you play around with the coil and see temp vs time, maybe with different wicks, say stainless vs silica what have you? Great info though!
fernand
Well-Known Member
@Haywood HELP! I just debridged a 3 ohm (precious) joye atty and the wick pulled out of the coil. Have you found a way to use it wickless? How do you prevent the wick getting pulled when yanking out the bridge?
I'm totally taken with your pure Gold solution. Does it smell different from a CO2 transparent oil? so you use a Sapphire Bud for thé Gold and the 510 Joye for all the waxes? s
I'm totally taken with your pure Gold solution. Does it smell different from a CO2 transparent oil? so you use a Sapphire Bud for thé Gold and the 510 Joye for all the waxes? s
Haywood
Onward Thru the Fog
@fernand: I haven't seen any of the 3Ω joye atty's, just the 2.2Ω versions. So I don't know if their internal construction is the same. Removing the bridge assembly in the 2.2Ω version has been a piece of cake for me; I grab the tip of the bridge with a needle nose pliers and just pull straight up and out. I bought ten of the 2.2Ω joye atty's when they went on sale a month ago, and I removed the bridge assembly from eight of them without any damage to the coil assembly or wick or anything else. (I left two as-is in case I discovered some use for them with the bridge)
I do grab the bridge from the "open" sides, rather than the flat sides. (If you look at the pictures I uploaded, the pliers grab from the left and right at the tip of the bridge, NOT from the top and bottom sides of the bridge, again as looked at in my pictures). I only grab the bridge assembly from the very peak, deliberately avoiding crushing the bridge and anything below it. It just rips the mesh that makes up the bridge at the very bottom, where it becomes part of the mesh surrounding the ceramic cup. I did this on the first one since I was worried that grabbing the bridge in the other direction might crush the bridge and rip out the coil assembly below it. When the first attempt worked 100% I just kept doing it the same way.
Note that in my atty's, there is a wick above the coil, "trapped" in the bend at the top of the bridge, as well as the wick inside the coil. This second top wick is commonly known in the e-cig world as a "flavor wick", and is frequently added or removed to control the flow of e-juice. If the atty leaks, a flavor wick can be added by the user to restrict the flow and the leak; if the atty doesn't wick well, and produces lots of dry scratchy hits, a flavor wick can be removed.
In my case, the second wick (the flavor wick) came out with the bridge assembly, but the primary wick inside the coil remained pristine. I have no great suggestions as to how you can rewick the coil (assuming it wasn't broken when its wick came out). Maybe with cotton rather than with a more common wick material (though I have no idea if cotton is suitable for wicking the concentrates we use). I haven't done any investigating on the possibility of rebuilding the coil in a Joye atty. If/when one of my 2.2Ω Joye's finally dies (burns out, whatever), I plan on dissecting it, so maybe I'll have a better idea of whether a rebuild is even possible (I kind of doubt it, but I haven't looked).
I haven't tried any CO2 extractions yet, so I can't compare the smell/taste to Pure Gold. I can tell you that Pure Gold smells nothing like herb. It has a faint citrus smell, and that's all. When i first got Pure Gold years ago, I made a "test" with a good friend who absolutely knows the smell of all kinds of herb stuff (herb, hash, concentrates, etc). I took a HUGE hit, and blew a Cheech-and-Chong size cloud of vapor that totally surrounded his head. (I should have taken a picture). His only comment was that he would never suspect anyone was "smoking" anything cannabis related. At most he said he might have thought that someone with a little too much cologne had walked by.
And yes, I do undiluted Pure Gold in GotVapes Sapphire clearos and I do all the other kinds of concentrates in a de-bridged 2.2Ω Joye 510 atty.
I do grab the bridge from the "open" sides, rather than the flat sides. (If you look at the pictures I uploaded, the pliers grab from the left and right at the tip of the bridge, NOT from the top and bottom sides of the bridge, again as looked at in my pictures). I only grab the bridge assembly from the very peak, deliberately avoiding crushing the bridge and anything below it. It just rips the mesh that makes up the bridge at the very bottom, where it becomes part of the mesh surrounding the ceramic cup. I did this on the first one since I was worried that grabbing the bridge in the other direction might crush the bridge and rip out the coil assembly below it. When the first attempt worked 100% I just kept doing it the same way.
Note that in my atty's, there is a wick above the coil, "trapped" in the bend at the top of the bridge, as well as the wick inside the coil. This second top wick is commonly known in the e-cig world as a "flavor wick", and is frequently added or removed to control the flow of e-juice. If the atty leaks, a flavor wick can be added by the user to restrict the flow and the leak; if the atty doesn't wick well, and produces lots of dry scratchy hits, a flavor wick can be removed.
In my case, the second wick (the flavor wick) came out with the bridge assembly, but the primary wick inside the coil remained pristine. I have no great suggestions as to how you can rewick the coil (assuming it wasn't broken when its wick came out). Maybe with cotton rather than with a more common wick material (though I have no idea if cotton is suitable for wicking the concentrates we use). I haven't done any investigating on the possibility of rebuilding the coil in a Joye atty. If/when one of my 2.2Ω Joye's finally dies (burns out, whatever), I plan on dissecting it, so maybe I'll have a better idea of whether a rebuild is even possible (I kind of doubt it, but I haven't looked).
I haven't tried any CO2 extractions yet, so I can't compare the smell/taste to Pure Gold. I can tell you that Pure Gold smells nothing like herb. It has a faint citrus smell, and that's all. When i first got Pure Gold years ago, I made a "test" with a good friend who absolutely knows the smell of all kinds of herb stuff (herb, hash, concentrates, etc). I took a HUGE hit, and blew a Cheech-and-Chong size cloud of vapor that totally surrounded his head. (I should have taken a picture). His only comment was that he would never suspect anyone was "smoking" anything cannabis related. At most he said he might have thought that someone with a little too much cologne had walked by.
And yes, I do undiluted Pure Gold in GotVapes Sapphire clearos and I do all the other kinds of concentrates in a de-bridged 2.2Ω Joye 510 atty.
fernand
Well-Known Member
@Haywood thanks! Gold sounds wonderful. How does it feel relative to familiar strains?
I guess I have to break down and spend the money on a 1/2 g Unit o' Gold. But I see a great price on other ggoodies today.
My 510 atty opération was rough trade. The whole wick came out with the bridge. Oops. It's way too hard working on re wicking that coil, with the ttube blocking access eespecially. Dont like handling the glass fibers. But i hate to waste a 3 ohm atty, it should run well with a wide range on a VV like my Provari.
I could try just dumping stuff in to fill the ceramic trough, and leave the coil wickless, push it down a bit to sit in the very bottom of it. Have you ever tried that?
I guess I have to break down and spend the money on a 1/2 g Unit o' Gold. But I see a great price on other ggoodies today.
My 510 atty opération was rough trade. The whole wick came out with the bridge. Oops. It's way too hard working on re wicking that coil, with the ttube blocking access eespecially. Dont like handling the glass fibers. But i hate to waste a 3 ohm atty, it should run well with a wide range on a VV like my Provari.
I could try just dumping stuff in to fill the ceramic trough, and leave the coil wickless, push it down a bit to sit in the very bottom of it. Have you ever tried that?
Haywood
Onward Thru the Fog
PG (for me) is more uplifting than couch-locking. If used judiciously, it's suitable for a work environment. But there's only one way to tell; invest the $30 and buy a half gram. 
If the wick is truly gone from the coil, the atty may still work OK for dabs, but keep in mind that a wickless coil is a fragile animal and that ain't no 28 gauge wire, it's 30 at best and probably 32... Never tried a wickless coil, but I have used coils with a solid ceramic wick.
If the wick is truly gone from the coil, the atty may still work OK for dabs, but keep in mind that a wickless coil is a fragile animal and that ain't no 28 gauge wire, it's 30 at best and probably 32... Never tried a wickless coil, but I have used coils with a solid ceramic wick.
2clicker
Observer
interesting. my PT2 nails me to the wall. i wonder if it because of the difference between the 2 and 3...? i have a mini PT3 on its way. i will try with that to see if it performs differently than my full size 2 does.
ColoVaper
Science...Whoo!
At the dispensaries here you can buy oil ejuice. I took my provari, 2 PT2 (one with regular ejuice and one with special), and some more juice in extra bottles with me on vacation last summer. Had it all in a case inside my backpack with me through security. The security lady pulled it out of my backpack and asked what it was and I told her its e-cig stuff. She went and got her boss over to also inspect it too. She looked at it for several minutes and then gave it back to me and said have a nice flight! Anyways the PT2 for this purpose works great. I always wondered if you could just use oil in it. The special juice they sale around here is a little expensive and I'm not sure I would do that again. It does look just like regular ejuice though until you take a vape and taste it.
2clicker
Observer
you can use solid oil in the PT2, but its a "load as you go" deal. when using liquid you can fill it up and vape for weeks on it.
when vaping solid oils remember you have to remove the top tube part of the atty head. that will expose the coil and allow you to load directly onto the wick.
as soon as my mPT3 arrives i will post some pics of it and my reg PT2 in "dab" mode.
fernand
Well-Known Member
But there's only one way to tell; invest the $30 and buy a half gram.
but they're all out, Mr @Haywood!
2clicker
Observer
so my mPT3 was delivered today. pics to come.
215z
Well-Known Member
High all!
I've been waiting to participate in this thread when I've completely crystallized my thoughts on using e-cig hardware for getting medicated. We're already 20 pages in, and at this rate I may never get my shit together enough to write a ebook-worthy narrative. I'm just going to share what I've got, as disjointed and disorganized as it is.
I am not new to cannabis or cannabis concentrates, but I'm no longer interested in its recreational use. I don't have space to store stuff to get high, time to be grinding up bud, nor can I afford to smell like weed anymore. I'm like a diabetic now, I just want to press a button and get medicated.
Nicotine users are in the same boat as me: frequent need for clean hits of nicotine, in a discreet and portable package. There is also power in scale, there is orders of magnitude more nicotine users on this planet than cannabinoid users. There is plenty of effort going into the development of e-cig hardware, out in the open, none of which are covered by patents enforceable in the Peoples Republic of China.
As a result, there should be plenty of hardware available, from different vendors, and much of it will be mass manufactured and distributed inexpensively. The key is in adapting the right e-cig hardware to fit our needs, and perhaps adapting our meds to fit existing e-cig hardware.
Starting off the bat, if you were an advanced e-cig user who loves flavor and fogging up the room, you would have a mechanical mod and a rebuildable dripping atomizer. That's e-cig language for a battery pack with a heating chamber on top. The chamber is stuffed with cotton/silica wool, a portion of which is wrapped with the heating element. Advanced e-cig users will then drip juice (nicotine, flavorings, and glycerin) on the wool, soaking it up. They hit the switch and start blowing clouds. How are they different from us, and what adaptations can we make?
First of all, nicotine vapers are ex-smokers who don't approach drug delivery with a systematic view towards reducing contaminants. I mean, no offense, they used to smoke, and for them this harm-reduction tool is effective even if they are vaping off brass or inhaling food-grade glycerin. They are also cost-conscious in a very "normal" way more so than recreational cannabis users, for whom paying top dollar for equipment is congruent with what they pay for (or earn from) cannabis.
Medical patients need to be able to dry-burn they rig to clean it. This is really not possible with existing Nickel-Chromium filament technology. The most expensive Iconel, Kanthal, or titanium filaments will burn out in the presence of oxygen. Cotton and fiberglass (call it silica if it makes you feel better) wicks burn when heated dry, and will forever make juice taste gross. Alumina wicks (call it ceramic if it makes you feel better) are brittle. This equipment needs to survive use by sick people with limited mobility.
I think it is possible to adapt e-cig hardware to make it dry-burn safe: the key lies in ceramic heating elements and titanium wool wicks. I personally also want the heating element to sit in a ceramic cup, or for the heating chamber to be somehow ceramic coated on the inside. I do not know why, or whether I am just being silly. I do know it is different when I cook on raw cast iron vs cooking on enameled cast iron.
Starting with nice cartomizers, the Buddytech Saphire would be ideal with a ceramic heating element and a glass tube, as well the exclusive use of stainless steel for the metal parts.
Starting with the new generation of wickless, bridgeless, all stainless-steel atomizers, manufactured en masse in China, I propose no changed for recreational use. Throw them out when the filament burns out or gets gunked up, and buy replacements for $1 to $2 each.
Starting with the typical rebuildable dripping atomizer, I propose using a ceramic heating element holding down a chunk of titanium wool. Some RDA's even come with ceramic base plates. Rainbow Heaven's Terminator Mini has a ceramic cup.
Now, how about mixing glycol or glycerin with hash oil, so that it can flow in a tank? The experiences I've read about here are unfavorable because the thin blend does not provide satisfying hits of vapor. In all fairness, they were consumed out of low power devices. The e-cig enthusiasts don't get rich satisfying vapor from their Ego Twist either: They get it from their high powered rigs and low nicotine-content juice. That's right, cloud chasers of the e-cig world consume very low nicotine content juice. They set their rigs up to generate very dense plumes of glycerin vapor, and need the nic levels to be low so they can tolerate the hit. I don't have the equipment to experiment with, but I am guessing that it is possible to take satisfying rips of 30%BHO/70%PG if the vapor is dense enough.
FatDaddyVapes is selling Vapin Donuts, which are ceramic heating elements mounted to wire terminals. They are designed for RDA's, as drop in replacements for hand-wound filaments. They do not produce as satisfying a vape as traditional coils, because they react much slower. That is, when electricity flows, it takes much longer for the ceramic element to heat up than the NiCr element. However, these donuts are making the joys of RDA vaping accessible to people who lack the aptitude or dexterity to wind their own coils. As you can see from many YouTube videos, these elements can be dry-burned like a mother.
I have a Utopia Planitia Hercules SR-74 on order. It is not ideal but it represents an example of an atomizer that fits our needs: can be dry burned, can be cleaned in an autoclave, and be used by sick people. (I occasionally can muster the dexterity to take a dab, but there are many people who are not so lucky, and they too need to get medicated daily) What the Delta9 crew have as a leg-up is that Titanium wool. Will their $12.95 chunk fit nicely in the ceramic cup of the Terminator, and is it tall enough to reach a Vapin Donut stretched over the opening of the cup? That would be bomb.
I will try that and report back when I get all the equipment. (It seems getting BHO is easier than getting the BHO into my bloodstream, sigh) The next phase, if the Terminator Mini works out good, is trying out the tank-atomizers. The Vapin Donut should fit the Golden Greek Odysseus (ceramic cup) and the SvoeMesto Kayfun, both of which are all stainless-steel. At that point, it would be a matter of experimenting with wicking materials and PG-BHO proportions. I'm not sure that adding glycerin would help things, our objective is to reduce the viscosity of the blended liquid. PG is thinner, and mixes better with BHO.
Mad props and big thanks to the trailblazers on this thread. But guys, consider laying off the silica and plastic. I also don't know how you justify putting $35 of TetraLabs PureGold into a $35 e-cig rig.
I've been waiting to participate in this thread when I've completely crystallized my thoughts on using e-cig hardware for getting medicated. We're already 20 pages in, and at this rate I may never get my shit together enough to write a ebook-worthy narrative. I'm just going to share what I've got, as disjointed and disorganized as it is.
I am not new to cannabis or cannabis concentrates, but I'm no longer interested in its recreational use. I don't have space to store stuff to get high, time to be grinding up bud, nor can I afford to smell like weed anymore. I'm like a diabetic now, I just want to press a button and get medicated.
Nicotine users are in the same boat as me: frequent need for clean hits of nicotine, in a discreet and portable package. There is also power in scale, there is orders of magnitude more nicotine users on this planet than cannabinoid users. There is plenty of effort going into the development of e-cig hardware, out in the open, none of which are covered by patents enforceable in the Peoples Republic of China.
As a result, there should be plenty of hardware available, from different vendors, and much of it will be mass manufactured and distributed inexpensively. The key is in adapting the right e-cig hardware to fit our needs, and perhaps adapting our meds to fit existing e-cig hardware.
Starting off the bat, if you were an advanced e-cig user who loves flavor and fogging up the room, you would have a mechanical mod and a rebuildable dripping atomizer. That's e-cig language for a battery pack with a heating chamber on top. The chamber is stuffed with cotton/silica wool, a portion of which is wrapped with the heating element. Advanced e-cig users will then drip juice (nicotine, flavorings, and glycerin) on the wool, soaking it up. They hit the switch and start blowing clouds. How are they different from us, and what adaptations can we make?
First of all, nicotine vapers are ex-smokers who don't approach drug delivery with a systematic view towards reducing contaminants. I mean, no offense, they used to smoke, and for them this harm-reduction tool is effective even if they are vaping off brass or inhaling food-grade glycerin. They are also cost-conscious in a very "normal" way more so than recreational cannabis users, for whom paying top dollar for equipment is congruent with what they pay for (or earn from) cannabis.
Medical patients need to be able to dry-burn they rig to clean it. This is really not possible with existing Nickel-Chromium filament technology. The most expensive Iconel, Kanthal, or titanium filaments will burn out in the presence of oxygen. Cotton and fiberglass (call it silica if it makes you feel better) wicks burn when heated dry, and will forever make juice taste gross. Alumina wicks (call it ceramic if it makes you feel better) are brittle. This equipment needs to survive use by sick people with limited mobility.
I think it is possible to adapt e-cig hardware to make it dry-burn safe: the key lies in ceramic heating elements and titanium wool wicks. I personally also want the heating element to sit in a ceramic cup, or for the heating chamber to be somehow ceramic coated on the inside. I do not know why, or whether I am just being silly. I do know it is different when I cook on raw cast iron vs cooking on enameled cast iron.
Starting with nice cartomizers, the Buddytech Saphire would be ideal with a ceramic heating element and a glass tube, as well the exclusive use of stainless steel for the metal parts.
Starting with the new generation of wickless, bridgeless, all stainless-steel atomizers, manufactured en masse in China, I propose no changed for recreational use. Throw them out when the filament burns out or gets gunked up, and buy replacements for $1 to $2 each.
Starting with the typical rebuildable dripping atomizer, I propose using a ceramic heating element holding down a chunk of titanium wool. Some RDA's even come with ceramic base plates. Rainbow Heaven's Terminator Mini has a ceramic cup.
Now, how about mixing glycol or glycerin with hash oil, so that it can flow in a tank? The experiences I've read about here are unfavorable because the thin blend does not provide satisfying hits of vapor. In all fairness, they were consumed out of low power devices. The e-cig enthusiasts don't get rich satisfying vapor from their Ego Twist either: They get it from their high powered rigs and low nicotine-content juice. That's right, cloud chasers of the e-cig world consume very low nicotine content juice. They set their rigs up to generate very dense plumes of glycerin vapor, and need the nic levels to be low so they can tolerate the hit. I don't have the equipment to experiment with, but I am guessing that it is possible to take satisfying rips of 30%BHO/70%PG if the vapor is dense enough.
FatDaddyVapes is selling Vapin Donuts, which are ceramic heating elements mounted to wire terminals. They are designed for RDA's, as drop in replacements for hand-wound filaments. They do not produce as satisfying a vape as traditional coils, because they react much slower. That is, when electricity flows, it takes much longer for the ceramic element to heat up than the NiCr element. However, these donuts are making the joys of RDA vaping accessible to people who lack the aptitude or dexterity to wind their own coils. As you can see from many YouTube videos, these elements can be dry-burned like a mother.
I have a Utopia Planitia Hercules SR-74 on order. It is not ideal but it represents an example of an atomizer that fits our needs: can be dry burned, can be cleaned in an autoclave, and be used by sick people. (I occasionally can muster the dexterity to take a dab, but there are many people who are not so lucky, and they too need to get medicated daily) What the Delta9 crew have as a leg-up is that Titanium wool. Will their $12.95 chunk fit nicely in the ceramic cup of the Terminator, and is it tall enough to reach a Vapin Donut stretched over the opening of the cup? That would be bomb.
I will try that and report back when I get all the equipment. (It seems getting BHO is easier than getting the BHO into my bloodstream, sigh) The next phase, if the Terminator Mini works out good, is trying out the tank-atomizers. The Vapin Donut should fit the Golden Greek Odysseus (ceramic cup) and the SvoeMesto Kayfun, both of which are all stainless-steel. At that point, it would be a matter of experimenting with wicking materials and PG-BHO proportions. I'm not sure that adding glycerin would help things, our objective is to reduce the viscosity of the blended liquid. PG is thinner, and mixes better with BHO.
Mad props and big thanks to the trailblazers on this thread. But guys, consider laying off the silica and plastic. I also don't know how you justify putting $35 of TetraLabs PureGold into a $35 e-cig rig.
Quetzalcoatl
DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
Use Liquidizer's EJ mix to cut your BHO.
Haywood
Onward Thru the Fog
I'm with you; let me know when you get Buddytech (or anyone else) to make one. Until then, for my Pure Gold needs (or any liquid that's no thicker than Pure Gold), nothing beats the GotVapes Sapphire for its combination of convenience of filling, absence of leaking, ease of travel, ability to use all of the loaded product without wasting any, ability to use even tiny 350mAh eGo batteries, and great vaporization of the product.
Umm, how about "because it works"?
Look, don't get me wrong, as someone who has almost every kind of mod, and a bunch of RDAs and Clearo's and the like, and who winds his own coils, etc., I'm on the same path you are. But when something just works, and works well, I'm inclined to use it, even if it's really inexpensive and made of cheap plastic and metal...
As you know from reading this thread, a few of us are hoping that the mini ProTank 3 will be a better carrier for our Pure Gold and diluted concentrates than the Sapphires are. And the mini PT3s aren't even stainless steel; they're plated brass (or so I'm told). @2clicker just got his mini PT3, and I'm anxiously awaiting his reports! Mine are still in the nebulous area between China and the US. One of the nice things about the miniPT3 is that you can use the factory coil assemblies, or you can buy hand made microcoil/cotton assemblies, or you can wind your own. Not much room in that little tiny ceramic cup though... Both 2clicker and I have some woven ceramic wick material that is supposed to be really great stuff, so there should be some reports from both of us in the near future as to how well this does in replacing the more common wick materials (which I infer from your message that you're not really a fan of).
As far as non-liquid concentrates, after experimenting with a dozen different atty's, I've finally found one that can take every kind of concentrate I've thrown at it (err, in it). I mentioned it earlier in this thread along with a few pictures.
So welcome to our little niche, glad you finally decided to get involved, and I'm looking forward to sharing in all your discoveries!
topflopper
New Member
New to concentrates. have only tried what my buddy gets and he originally called it wax but then another friend of ours called it oil. trying to figure out what we've got here. don't have a pic cuz i haven't gotten my own jar yet but it is thick, viscous and sticky, amber/brown color. it is not liquid nor is it solid or cloudy at room temp. would this be rso? is that different from bho or just a specific type? what type of pen/atomizer would be best for this type of concentrate?
as you can tell i am very much a novice, any help would be appreciated.
as you can tell i am very much a novice, any help would be appreciated.
2clicker
Observer
ok folks so here is a pic of my newly braided ceramic coiled ProTank2 base in dab mode. my first attempt netted me a 1.3ohm coil. this coil RIPS, but is a tad harsh. this was also the case on my IGO-L with the same wire. i am starting to think that the 28gauge kanthal is too hot for my throat. i am going to experiment with 30 and 32 gauge instead. does anyone know the gauge wire that kanger uses in their stock coils? they seem to work perfectly in that regard, but fuck silica. so far i much prefer my PT tanks in dab mode over my IGO-L. RDAs are cool, but the posts are t designed for our use. i love the SS cup the kanger coil heads provide. snd with ceramic wick they taste AMAZING! oh and i am near a gram thru my first PT coil and it is not even close to leaking. i do not think leaking is an issue with PT coils/heads in dab mode. a non issue IMO.
@Haywood, my mini PT3 arrived yesterday, but have only tried solids in it so far. rips good just like my other PTs do in dab mode.
as for liquid use... i expect better performance from the mPT3 in the cloud production and possibly flavor, but i still expect the same leakage issues as all the other PT tanks. im thinking maybe the aerotank may eliminate this due to its air path not being completely vertical. i will likely be getting a reg aerotank for solids and a mini aerotank (when they are available) for liquids.
oh and btw... i am pretty sure the internal metal parts of the PTs are indeed SS, but the top and bottom parts are plated.
at this point i will be using PT tanks only for both solids and liquids.
@Haywood, my mini PT3 arrived yesterday, but have only tried solids in it so far. rips good just like my other PTs do in dab mode.
as for liquid use... i expect better performance from the mPT3 in the cloud production and possibly flavor, but i still expect the same leakage issues as all the other PT tanks. im thinking maybe the aerotank may eliminate this due to its air path not being completely vertical. i will likely be getting a reg aerotank for solids and a mini aerotank (when they are available) for liquids.
oh and btw... i am pretty sure the internal metal parts of the PTs are indeed SS, but the top and bottom parts are plated.
at this point i will be using PT tanks only for both solids and liquids.