Advanced E-cig users and oil/wax, how-to "one-hitter-quitter"

[farscaper]

Guys!


Interesting stuff and reads , i've saw theses kind of coils used by ecig sub ohmers users, but never thought about being useful for dab.
How much amount of dab do you drop on the coil?

Is there a sweet spot about how much the resistance have to be ? is everyone agree on this or multiples views?

I was away fc for a while but remember being very interested at this thread when it started, and i'am happy to see it's getting as rich as interesting with the time.

I'am using mech mod, dripper, genesis for 3 years now, cotton and mesh single coil, between 0.9 and 1.3 ohm.

To smoke bho on the go, after broking all my nice glass vapor rig, i've been modding some different piece coming mainly from ecig mods, using a 10mm/14mm nail; keeping the set up tottally mechanical meaning i always need a little torch to heat the nails.

I finally came out with a good one, pretty useful that i can show you maybe, i have to take picture of it , if there is some interest.

throw them up. lets see ur setup!

 

[215z]

High guys, I'll ask for a post merge from the mods. [mod note: Done!] I had written up my experiences these last few months using different wicks, atomizers, and coil styles. Somehow I fat-thumbed and deleted most of the text.

I stopped trying to vape concentrates directly off hot coils, I could never completely vape the errl without burning some of it.

I am much happier now with using wicks large enough to hold a full hit, in conjunction with small heating elements. I'm using Nextel XC-132 (2mm ReadyXWick) in Kanthal microcoil. The wick does the heavy lifting, and feeds the hot coil near the airhole. Cotton has a huge capacity for oil compared to RxW, but but it does not wick as quickly. It was a great way to experiment with builds, and when the cotton gets gunky it goes in the Lotus. But the RxW builds have lasted me over 4 months, so is affordable when your build is dialed in. I can push 15W through a single coil (long enough to fill my lungs) without getting dry hits (2mm RxW).

For me, metal mesh wicks hold very little, but wick even faster than RxW can. Hot spots on metal makes for vapor that hurts my lungs. Mesh only works for me in a genesis (top coil) tank, where the mesh is constantly submerged in oil. Mesh conducts heat well, and eventually the juice in the tank darkens. This issue with heat is why I have abandoned my other bottom coil tanks. I grew frustrated quickly with the Aerotank because the seals fail quickly, flooding the atomizer chamber. But even with the bulletproof Kayfun, the heat needs somewhere to go. These tanks have the source of heat in the center of the tank, heating up the juice progressively. Maybe there is nothing wrong with darker juice? But the taste changes too. I'm still paying good money at the dispensary for light-colored and clear concentrates, so it breaks my heart to see it go dark.

So these days I'm mostly vaping out of bottom-fed drippers. I use just enough EJMix so that I can squeeze the bottle with the concentrate blend in it. I don't use enough EJMix that the blend flows at room temperature. I know many of you hate everything about EJMix. I hate the taste, but I love what I can do with a light blend. Having concentrate that flows towards the hot coil, versus having concentrate sit atop a coil that is heating up, means a world of difference in reclaim/burntoil for me. I am having very little 'claim to deal with now, and very little clean up. Anything that isn't burning and turning into dark oil at the bottom of my atomizer is going into my lungs ($) and I spend so much less time cleaning vape gear. With a bottom-feeder, I squeeze a little bottle piped under the atomizer, that then floods the atomizer floor, wetting the wick. When I let go of the little bottle, excess concentrate blend flows back down into bottle, leaving the wet wick hanging exposed in the air. I sorta learn how to "read" wicks based on how harsh the vapor is, and kinda know when it is time to re-wet the wick.

I have some smaller atomizers. My smallest two are the size of a cartomizer, between 9mm and 10mm diameter. My smaller atomizers deliver richer, thicker vapor than my larger atomizers for a given amount of power. I guess that is because there is more space to fill, and more fresh air mixing with vapor (from larger inlet holes). But using that logic, it is the air inlet size that is more determinitive of vapor thickness than chamber size itself. Smaller chambers also give me a hotter vape, which brings out the flavors better of fruity and candy ejuice. Richer vapor gives me a stronger perception of flavor when vaping ejuice. None of this has the slightest bearing on getting high. If a bigger RDA lets me build for more vapor output and less flavor, I get more medicated using it rather than use some flavor queen. If terpenes do in fact play a critical role in getting high, then for me it is more about inhaling the terps rather than taste the terps.

You may not relate to my experience, which is why e-cigs are awesome: you can try a variety of devices tailored to suit a variety of vaping styles. Like, some people prefer mouth-to-lung hits, while I prefer deep direct lung inhales. Volcano bag style. I know alot of people in the glass thread seem to favor small dab rigs with better flavor over bigger rigs that would get them bigger hits.

There is one area in which I feel I'm not trying hard enough, and that is using more titanium gear, especially titanium wire. Would I dab off a nail made of Kanthal? Why am I vaping off Kanthal heating wire? I disgust myself sometime. Ive seen titanium wire for sale, even NR-R-NR ready wire, in sizes suitable for yesteryears ecig hardware. Before they sold wire for that purpose, I ended buying a roll of 24ga Grade 1. Built a 7 wrap 3/32" microcoil that metered out to 0.18ohm, it was a coil whose time hadn't come yet. It would be perfect on the new DNA40 temperature controlled devices on the market.

Temperature control! That's right, set it to 550 degrees Fahrenheit then hit that! Sino designers are bringing clones to market as we speak, and at least two manufacturers (Pioneer4You & YiHi) have committed to including temperature control into future products. These devices are implementing temperature control that works by indirectly sensing temperature by measuring the resistance of the coil and extrapolating from there. Anybody who has used a SR-74 on a digital device has intuitively inferred the temperature of the rod by reading the resistance of the rod. These ecig chips just do the math in their silicon heads. Temperature control may turn out to be a ecig fad, but it will be a stoner boon. The devices will be calibrated to Nichrome200 (yuck) but there is a conversion chart out there for titanium.

 

[2clicker]

High guys, I'll ask for a post merge from the mods. [mod note: Done!] I had written up my experiences these last few months using different wicks, atomizers, and coil styles. Somehow I fat-thumbed and deleted most of the text.

I stopped trying to vape concentrates directly off hot coils, I could never completely vape the errl without burning some of it.

I am much happier now with using wicks large enough to hold a full hit, in conjunction with small heating elements. I'm using Nextel XC-132 (2mm ReadyXWick) in Kanthal microcoil. The wick does the heavy lifting, and feeds the hot coil near the airhole. Cotton has a huge capacity for oil compared to RxW, but but it does not wick as quickly. It was a great way to experiment with builds, and when the cotton gets gunky it goes in the Lotus. But the RxW builds have lasted me over 4 months, so is affordable when your build is dialed in. I can push 15W through a single coil (long enough to fill my lungs) without getting dry hits (2mm RxW).

For me, metal mesh wicks hold very little, but wick even faster than RxW can. Hot spots on metal makes for vapor that hurts my lungs. Mesh only works for me in a genesis (top coil) tank, where the mesh is constantly submerged in oil. Mesh conducts heat well, and eventually the juice in the tank darkens. This issue with heat is why I have abandoned my other bottom coil tanks. I grew frustrated quickly with the Aerotank because the seals fail quickly, flooding the atomizer chamber. But even with the bulletproof Kayfun, the heat needs somewhere to go. These tanks have the source of heat in the center of the tank, heating up the juice progressively. Maybe there is nothing wrong with darker juice? But the taste changes too. I'm still paying good money at the dispensary for light-colored and clear concentrates, so it breaks my heart to see it go dark.

So these days I'm mostly vaping out of bottom-fed drippers. I use just enough EJMix so that I can squeeze the bottle with the concentrate blend in it. I don't use enough EJMix that the blend flows at room temperature. I know many of you hate everything about EJMix. I hate the taste, but I love what I can do with a light blend. Having concentrate that flows towards the hot coil, versus having concentrate sit atop a coil that is heating up, means a world of difference in reclaim/burntoil for me. I am having very little 'claim to deal with now, and very little clean up. Anything that isn't burning and turning into dark oil at the bottom of my atomizer is going into my lungs ($) and I spend so much less time cleaning vape gear. With a bottom-feeder, I squeeze a little bottle piped under the atomizer, that then floods the atomizer floor, wetting the wick. When I let go of the little bottle, excess concentrate blend flows back down into bottle, leaving the wet wick hanging exposed in the air. I sorta learn how to "read" wicks based on how harsh the vapor is, and kinda know when it is time to re-wet the wick.

I have some smaller atomizers. My smallest two are the size of a cartomizer, between 9mm and 10mm diameter. My smaller atomizers deliver richer, thicker vapor than my larger atomizers for a given amount of power. I guess that is because there is more space to fill, and more fresh air mixing with vapor (from larger inlet holes). But using that logic, it is the air inlet size that is more determinitive of vapor thickness than chamber size itself. Smaller chambers also give me a hotter vape, which brings out the flavors better of fruity and candy ejuice. Richer vapor gives me a stronger perception of flavor when vaping ejuice. None of this has the slightest bearing on getting high. If a bigger RDA lets me build for more vapor output and less flavor, I get more medicated using it rather than use some flavor queen. If terpenes do in fact play a critical role in getting high, then for me it is more about inhaling the terps rather than taste the terps.

You may not relate to my experience, which is why e-cigs are awesome: you can try a variety of devices tailored to suit a variety of vaping styles. Like, some people prefer mouth-to-lung hits, while I prefer deep direct lung inhales. Volcano bag style. I know alot of people in the glass thread seem to favor small dab rigs with better flavor over bigger rigs that would get them bigger hits.

There is one area in which I feel I'm not trying hard enough, and that is using more titanium gear, especially titanium wire. Would I dab off a nail made of Kanthal? Why am I vaping off Kanthal heating wire? I disgust myself sometime. Ive seen titanium wire for sale, even NR-R-NR ready wire, in sizes suitable for yesteryears ecig hardware. Before they sold wire for that purpose, I ended buying a roll of 24ga Grade 1. Built a 7 wrap 3/32" microcoil that metered out to 0.18ohm, it was a coil whose time hadn't come yet. It would be perfect on the new DNA40 temperature controlled devices on the market.

Temperature control! That's right, set it to 550 degrees Fahrenheit then hit that! Sino designers are bringing clones to market as we speak, and at least two manufacturers (Pioneer4You & YiHi) have committed to including temperature control into future products. These devices are implementing temperature control that works by indirectly sensing temperature by measuring the resistance of the coil and extrapolating from there. Anybody who has used a SR-74 on a digital device has intuitively inferred the temperature of the rod by reading the resistance of the rod. These ecig chips just do the math in their silicon heads. Temperature control may turn out to be a ecig fad, but it will be a stoner boon. The devices will be calibrated to Nichrome200 (yuck) but there is a conversion chart out there for titanium.

i find my experience to be similar. i much prefer a wicked setup over a non-wick setup. because of farscapers recent post with pics of wickless coils... i spent the weekend experimenting with some wickless coils. no matter what shape/form the coil is... i still cant get it to wick in kanthal alone. i always end up with half the dab on the deck below the coil. w/ RXW... the only oil that hits the deck is residual buildup from the clouds inside the atty. it takes days for a considerable amount to form.

BUT, even RXW has its negatives. i find that RXW only last about 2 months before it starts to break down. an RXW coil can get dangerous (how dangerous i have no idea) if used for too long. i ran a DBC coil for more than 3 months. when i removed the coil i attempted to un-roll it and tried to slide the kanthal out... to no avail. the kanthal simply tore through the wall of the RXW like it was tissue paper.

i have removed DBCs before and un-rolled them just fine. it was because of how much the RXW was used/heated that caused it to break down. now it wouldnt have torn like that if i hadnt physically pulled the kanthal, but its good to know.

i use RXW for 1-2 months tops before re-wicking/coiling.

and i couldnt agree more about the titanium resistance wire. nobody is dabbing off kanthal nails. i have been searching for grade1 titanium wire sourced from the US since last week and cannot find a supplier.

EDIT* i think i found a supplier in the US for surgical grade 1 titanium resistance wire! if its all good ill share the link.

 

[215z]

I bought my 24 gauge wire from Gallium Source, they sell through Amazon and will send you analytical reports on the metal they sell. Jewellers who make and repair piercings should have many sizes lying around. Like this dude on Etsy https://www.etsy.com/listing/74698735/pure-titanium-wire-100-guarantee?ref=shop_home_active_1

Can I ask why you fudge with your wicks at all? With RxW I just dry burn in place, and don't do anything else to clean it. I don't have to clean my atomizer now that I stopped trying to vape errl off coils. Back then, I had to clean out the burnt reclaim often.

Edit: the coil calculator at http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp?mat=ti1 has resistivity data for titanium now

 

[kazz]

So these days I'm mostly vaping out of bottom-fed drippers. I use just enough EJMix so that I can squeeze the bottle with the concentrate blend in it. I don't use enough EJMix that the blend flows at room temperature. I know many of you hate everything about EJMix. I hate the taste, but I love what I can do with a light blend. Having concentrate that flows towards the hot coil, versus having concentrate sit atop a coil that is heating up, means a world of difference in reclaim/burntoil for me. I am having very little 'claim to deal with now, and very little clean up. Anything that isn't burning and turning into dark oil at the bottom of my atomizer is going into my lungs ($) and I spend so much less time cleaning vape gear. With a bottom-feeder, I squeeze a little bottle piped under the atomizer, that then floods the atomizer floor, wetting the wick. When I let go of the little bottle, excess concentrate blend flows back down into bottle, leaving the wet wick hanging exposed in the air. I sorta learn how to "read" wicks based on how harsh the vapor is, and kinda know when it is time to re-wet the wick.

@215z , let me see if I am understanding you correctly. You are using a bottom fed atty with oil that doesn't flow at room temp? Then you are squonking onto a RxW coil that is already hot? (atty is already firing)

How do you manage to get it up the tube? I use a REO w/ a cotton wick and essentially use it the same way as vaping ecig juice. I'd love to use less EJmix and put directly to a hot coil, but don't understand how you feed a thick oil.

Sorry if I have misunderstood you, but this is VERY intriguing!

 

[Quetzalcoatl]

@215z , let me see if I am understanding you correctly. You are using a bottom fed atty with oil that doesn't flow at room temp? Then you are squonking onto a RxW coil that is already hot? (atty is already firing)

How do you manage to get it up the tube? I use a REO w/ a cotton wick and essentially use it the same way as vaping ecig juice. I'd love to use less EJmix and put directly to a hot coil, but don't understand how you feed a thick oil.

Sorry if I have misunderstood you, but this is VERY intriguing!

If I understand correctly he's basically backloading oil into straight onto the coil, bypassing most of the wicking only using what's at the coil and immediately around it. He feeds it in and saturates it, then releasing the squeeze bottle sucks excess back in and the only stuff left is vaporized first and then by whatever juice is in the atomizer as it wicks in.

With a proper atomizer like the igo-L you can build a large coil and have a lot of room to place it. One of my RDA oil builds is with 28 gauge kanthal and SS mesh. With the right build and size you don't get a hot vape and minimize splatter but I understand the want to eliminate as much metal as possible. The current build has a load of about .075 so it's not going to deliver a huge dab but I can build something bigger if I want. Also with proper oxidizing of the mesh you won't get hotspots.

I'm excited about what the DNA40 has to offer with the temperature settings. Times are only getting better for us! Is setting temp to 400ish too low?

 

[kazz]

If I understand correctly he's basically backloading oil into straight onto the coil, bypassing most of the wicking only using what's at the coil and immediately around it. He feeds it in and saturates it, then releasing the squeeze bottle sucks excess back in and the only stuff left is vaporized first and then by whatever juice is in the atomizer as it wicks in.

Ah. After re-reading his post, I believe you may be right about not feeding onto an already hot atty. But, I'd still like to know how he gets oil that "doesn't flow at room temperature" from the bottle to the atomizer.

I mix my oil thicker than my ecig juice, but it is still around the consistency of pure VG. I'd like to use less EJ mix for flavor purposes. And, I guess that I need to invest in some ready wick.

 

[2clicker]

I bought my 24 gauge wire from Gallium Source, they sell through Amazon and will send you analytical reports on the metal they sell. Jewellers who make and repair piercings should have many sizes lying around. Like this dude on Etsy https://www.etsy.com/listing/74698735/pure-titanium-wire-100-guarantee?ref=shop_home_active_1

Can I ask why you fudge with your wicks at all? With RxW I just dry burn in place, and don't do anything else to clean it. I don't have to clean my atomizer now that I stopped trying to vape errl off coils. Back then, I had to clean out the burnt reclaim often.

Edit: the coil calculator at http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp?mat=ti1 has resistivity data for titanium now

thanks for the links on the wire! i suppose as long as its grade 1 we are good yeah...? i did have that link to the etsy vendor. they are close as well so shipping should be pretty quick.

what do you mean about "fudging with wicks"? do you mean why remove it and un-roll it? i do that to ensure it hasnt started deteriorating, but only when re-coiling. i leave it alone until its time to replace. like i said, after enough heat and time RXW will start break down and we do not want to be vaping it when that happens. it basically turns very brittle and will break/flake apart into almost ash. that is why i keep a close eye on the RXW. 2 months tops IMO. oh and yes i dry burn it in place when gunks up. comes out bright white again. i dont ecig. its all for errl.

i have never had any burnt oil in my attys. i dont let the coil get that hot.

oh and here is a kanthal to titanium wire comparison chart.

 

[farscaper]

thanks for the links on the wire! i suppose as long as its grade 1 we are good yeah...? i did have that link to the etsy vendor. they are close as well so shipping should be pretty quick.

what do you mean about "fudging with wicks"? do you mean why remove it and un-roll it? i do that to ensure it hasnt started deteriorating, but only when re-coiling. i leave it alone until its time to replace. like i said, after enough heat and time RXW will start break down and we do not want to be vaping it when that happens. it basically turns very brittle and will break/flake apart into almost ash. that is why i keep a close eye on the RXW. 2 months tops IMO. oh and yes i dry burn it in place when gunks up. comes out bright white again. i dont ecig. its all for errl.

i have never had any burnt oil in my attys. i dont let the coil get that hot.

oh and here is a kanthal to titanium wire comparison chart.

that charts a little deceptive though... notice that 24g G1Ti lines up with 19g ka1... ive been looking at G4Ti resistance wire sold by masterofclouds but since G1 is basically just softer G2 its a much better choice for dabbing.. G4 [grade 4] is a mix of metals... however if you want to use the temp protection of some mods you will have to run the G4... becuase I think they require the nickle content to use the censor.... but I could be wrong there.

 

[2clicker]

that charts a little deceptive though... notice that 24g G1Ti lines up with 19g ka1... ive been looking at G4Ti resistance wire sold by masterofclouds but since G1 is basically just softer G2 its a much better choice for dabbing.. G4 [grade 4] is a mix of metals... however if you want to use the temp protection of some mods you will have to run the G4... becuase I think they require the nickle content to use the censor.... but I could be wrong there.

i think the chart matches up via resistance. so a 28g kanthal wire is equal to a 33g titanium wire... resistance wise.

from what i understand titanium wire will fire considerably faster than kanthal even when running the same resistance.

oh and i have no desire to use a vv/vw device of any kind. i dont see a need for my use. i build a coil to my preferred resistance and i never get burnt rips. even if i have to pulse the button. a vv/vw device would be great for newbs who dont get the workings of the device, but im past that.

 

[215z]

High guys sorry I haven't been able to put a squonking video up.

I use a u-shaped wick, and both tails just barely touch the atomizer deck. The coil is high off the deck, lined up with the airhole in the topcap. When the atomizer is flooded, the tails get waxed/wet, but not the coil. Any oil that ends up on the coil partly burns and does not sublimate as effectively as the oil that is in the wick.

When my my oil is blended and cooled, it has the consistency of strawberry jam. That is, I can turn the dish upside down, and the errljelly doesn't move at all. I can use a spoon to push it around. (I actually use NoGoo branded jars and spatulas for this work)

It takes very little heat to drastically change the consistency of the oil blend. I would not turn a dish of blend upside down if it had been sitting on top of my internet router, it would just drip onto the floor.

Pulsing the button gently warms up my gear pretty quick. Smaller atomizers get hotter quicker, the RxW gets warm, blend is rapidly absorbed into the wick. There some metal plumbing that goes from the 510 connector into the tubing that connects to the Reo bottle. And heat propagates well enough through the blend that is in the remainder of the tubing as well as in the bottle.

I live in the Bay Area, so I don't know if any of this would work in colder climates. I do get dry hits using this process, during those moments where the wick is still cold and dry. Those dry hits are momentary, transient, I can handle it. I know that I can't do this using cotton because the transient dry hits will char the cotton. I know that I can't do this using steel mesh because I can't handle those dry hits even for a fraction of a second.

I did use straight VG for flood/drain testing, before trying on the expensive stuff. Ejuice that is labeled "all VG" is hardly as thick as straight VG, typically "all VG" juices are 60-70% glycerin, 20-30% flavoring, and 10% distilled water. Totally off topic, but @JMcCord is one of the few commercial sellers willing to blend his juice without cutting it with water, I don't even think he charges extra for that

@2clicker I don't quite understand why you re-coil - I'm convinced your wicks will last longer if not physically manipulated at all - and I can't blow a 28ga coil without serious abusive intent.

@farscaper temperature sensing in these circuits relies on the fact that some metals change resistance with temperature in a predictable way. Titanium alone will do this, and there is no need for nickel in the wire alloy. http://www.dtic.mil/dtic/tr/fulltext/u2/750579.pdf

@Quetzalcoatl I think like with ejuice users, we are all going to have to figure out ideal temperature from trial and error. @Caligula targets 550F on his nail, and without knowing any better, I will start at 550. The DNA40 and the Sino copycats will be calibrated for Nichrome 200, so we would set a different target temperature in hopes of achieving 550F on TiGr1.

@kazz I squeeze the jelly up, I can do so from cold, but it won't flow back or drain well without a little warmth. If you can build a great 1/16" microcoil, I'll send you a short segment of 2mm RxW by mail.

Edit: temperature regulated coils won't char cotton or superheat dry spots on mesh. The future... will be more flexible

 

[2clicker]

@215z... well the wick may look ok still, but that doesnt mean its still ok to use.

when i removed an abused coil, the wire ripped through the sides of the RXW like it wasnt shit. if i wouldnt have touched it then it would not have done that, but that doesnt mean that the wick is still safe. i dont think vaping off of an RXW wick that is brittle as hell and can fall apart into almost dust with the slightest of pressure is a good idea.

im no expert for sure, but id like to know when that deterioration starts so i can replace the RXW before it gets to that point.

the wick that this happened to was 3 months old and had been dry fire cleaned quite a bit. since i have switched to replacing them after 2 months i find the RXW has not yet reached that brittle state.

obviously YMMV, but i figured i would share as a reference. each one of the DBCs i use personally only uses 1-1.25" of RXW. so a foot will last me over a year. considering that i dont mind replacing every couple of months.

 

[215z]

Thank you so much for sharing your experience with RxW @2clicker

I'm going to order more FC-2000, it should last much longer than XC-116/XC-132. I can't imagine that it will wick as well, which is why I have been apprehensive about it lately.

I had used up all my older FC-2000 rebuilding "micro-skillets" which suck in comparison.

PS: you don't lean towards regulation of any kind, but the upcoming YiHi 350J will do 120W - enough to heat up a full sized nail.

 

[2clicker]

Thank you so much for sharing your experience with RxW @2clicker

I'm going to order more FC-2000, it should last much longer than XC-116/XC-132. I can't imagine that it will wick as well, which is why I have been apprehensive about it lately.

I had used up all my older FC-2000 rebuilding "micro-skillets" which suck in comparison.

PS: you don't lean towards regulation of any kind, but the upcoming YiHi 350J will do 120W - enough to heat up a full sized nail.

happy to help. i have some FC2000 also, but wish i could find it in different shapes. like discs!

i like the FC2000 tho. it provides great flavor, but you are right... it does not wick near as fast as RXW. thats what i LOVE about RXW.

i have some time off next week and will be doing some experimenting. i will be sure to keep this thread updated. working on sourcing some new wicking material. finding what im looking for is proving to be more difficult than i thought it would.

 

[kazz]

Pulsing the button gently warms up my gear pretty quick. Smaller atomizers get hotter quicker, the RxW gets warm, blend is rapidly absorbed into the wick. There some metal plumbing that goes from the 510 connector into the tubing that connects to the Reo bottle. And heat propagates well enough through the blend that is in the remainder of the tubing as well as in the bottle.

@kazz I squeeze the jelly up, I can do so from cold, but it won't flow back or drain well without a little warmth. If you can build a great 1/16" microcoil, I'll send you a short segment of 2mm RxW by mail.

Thank you very much for the great description! I definitely have some experimenting to do.

I do use microcoils, and while I appreciate the offer of sending some readywick, I've been planning to order some for weeks now. This topic just made my mind up for me.

One other question. May I ask if you are using a Grand or a Mini 2.1? Or, is it easier to use a 3ml or 6ml bottle for your "jelly"?

Thanks again!

 

[2clicker]

ok folks i have been researching titanium wire to coil instead of kanthal for a couple of reasons. flavor and safety. in doing so i have been participating in a thread on an ecig forum about this very subject. what i have learned has really surprised me and i wanted to share it here and get some feedback. i say this because i am def not an expert and would love to hear from those who actually know their shit... or any opnions on the subject at all.

at first i was told that Ti wire needs a temp controlled device to run it safely. i inquired why snd was told that if Ti wire gets red hot, that it will oxidize. and the oxidation is dangerous to the user. there is a temp controlled device coming out specifically to run Ti coils.

so then i ask why i cant just run Ti wire on a mech mod. i was told that i can. and that its safe as long as the wire does not get red hot. then i was told that ANY wire (kanthal, nichrome, etc) will oxidize and is dangerous if the wire gets red hot. this surprised me. esp since soooo many ecig users who run genny style attys dry burn their coils to clean them. just like i do on my DBCs for errl.

so someone asked "so all the genny users who dry burn are poisoning themselves?". the answer they received was "yes!"

so now im worried to dry burn clean my DBCs and that any wire getting red hot could potentially be poisonous...

anyone have any insight? if the wire getting red hot is dangerous then id better stop it eh? thoughts? experts? @OF...?

 

[IgnitorDemon]

First post on this thread for me! Started researching this a few weeks ago...waiting on an order form slow-tech. Definitely will post pics after I build some stuff.

While titanium it is a refractory metal its use may have health impacts. I was reading wiki and watching videos on mercury arc valves and ended up reading the wiki on ultra low vacuum systems (check out photoinduciton's youtube for some sick videos), which employ a few devices, such as TSPs (wikipedia.org/wiki/Titanium_sublimation_pump). Everyday when I heat up my nail I think of the TSP. Platinum would be ideal; but really, how much TiOx is really being created? I bet not that much.

 

[DJ Colonel Corn]

Hey guys.
Seems like most of you are far more advanced with your errl vaping than I am, but I thought I'd point out these new Ti pre-made standard-510-head fitting coils for the Dab Tornado.
They feature a porous ceramic rod (works better than wick for me) and 9 even wraps of Ti (titanium) wire. Here's a pic :

Tornado Ti Coil
​

This can be compared with the K.I.S.S. for the Persei by seeing this here:

Coil For K.I.S.S. cart
​

As you can see, far superior coil from Tornado.
You can see more by clicking here. I got the whole unit which includes a base with 4x more airflow, and a glass dome 5x-10x thicker than similar generic globes.
Also, the Tornado coils have a steel cup allowing you to load more than just a LAYGO hit, more like 4-5 hits and we're talking huge hits.
Much better taste than kanthal or nichrome. Takes 13+ watts no problem. Fires dry no problem. After vaping 3 grams the ceramic cup bottom is still clean. Wonderful airflow too.
The Tornado full kit also has a brushed chrome mouthpiece, very nice, and very sturdy O-rings. Fits any 510 mod.
The Tornado coil comes in at 1.5 ohms, reg's 1.6 on my mod, compared with the KISS cart, which is 1.0 according to the specs.
So if these coils last even a month I'm happy. More would be super-excellent. I mean, $10 a month I can handle, even though I understand it's about $1-$2 in titanium. The steel sleeve really comes in handy. So my pal is gonna show me how to rebuild these and then maybe I also can build coils for under $3 !! He he.
Vape on, concentrate enthusiasts !!

​

 

[Puffers]

Hey guys.
Seems like most of you are far more advanced with your errl vaping than I am, but I thought I'd point out these new Ti pre-made standard-510-head fitting coils for the Dab Tornado.
They feature a porous ceramic rod (works better than wick for me) and 9 even wraps of Ti (titanium) wire. Here's a pic :

Tornado Ti Coil
​

This can be compared with the K.I.S.S. for the Persei by seeing this here:

Coil For K.I.S.S. cart
​

As you can see, far superior coil from Tornado.
You can see more by clicking here. I got the whole unit which includes a base with 4x more airflow, and a glass dome 5x-10x thicker than similar generic globes.
Also, the Tornado coils have a steel cup allowing you to load more than just a LAYGO hit, more like 4-5 hits and we're talking huge hits.
Much better taste than kanthal or nichrome. Takes 13+ watts no problem. Fires dry no problem. After vaping 3 grams the ceramic cup bottom is still clean. Wonderful airflow too.
The Tornado full kit also has a brushed chrome mouthpiece, very nice, and very sturdy O-rings. Fits any 510 mod.
The Tornado coil comes in at 1.5 ohms, reg's 1.6 on my mod, compared with the KISS cart, which is 1.0 according to the specs.
So if these coils last even a month I'm happy. More would be super-excellent. I mean, $10 a month I can handle, even though I understand it's about $1-$2 in titanium. The steel sleeve really comes in handy. So my pal is gonna show me how to rebuild these and then maybe I also can build coils for under $3 !! He he.
Vape on, concentrate enthusiasts !!

​

9 wraps is a lot of wire for 1.5 ohm isn't it? Maybe it's cause I don't use Ti or they're wire is a small gauge... They're site say "double wrapped coil" does that mean there are two coils paralleled on that one rod?

 

[DJ Colonel Corn]

does that mean there are two coils paralleled on that one rod?

No, I think they're referring to the fact that there are 2x as many wraps as a normal coil.
They appear in real life just like the pic, one strand of wire wrapped 9 times.
Odd wording, but, that was their choice.
I was told at the shop I got it from that it's an American company and even that the coils are made in USA. The glass dome is German boro glass. Going to follow up on that, no city named on package.
Oh, and, this wire doesn't appear to be small gauge. In fact it's quite thick.
All the best !

 

[2clicker]

9 wraps is a lot of wire for 1.5 ohm isn't it? Maybe it's cause I don't use Ti or they're wire is a small gauge... They're site say "double wrapped coil" does that mean there are two coils paralleled on that one rod?

it takes almost twice as many wraps in Ti wire to match the resistance of kanthal.

from what i gather anyway in my latest search for Ti wire.

 

[Puffers]

it takes almost twice as many wraps in Ti wire to match the resistance of kanthal.

from what i gather anyway in my latest search for Ti wire.

Ya and I saw that for a given length it's resistance is less then nichrome and kanthal, but isn't the kiss cart Ti wire too? It has over twice as many wraps and comes out to less then 50% higher resistance. Could just be a couple gauges smaller though. So it will react faster but burn out quicker too if that's the case.

 

[2clicker]

Ya and I saw that for a given length it's resistance is less then nichrome and kanthal, but isn't the kiss cart Ti wire too? It has over twice as many wraps and comes out to less then 50% higher resistance. Could just be a couple gauges smaller though. So it will react faster but burn out quicker too if that's the case.

im not sure about the kiss cart. i dont stay up on delta9 or whatever they are called these days.

now i may be looking into using Nickel wire for use in a temperature controlled box mod. this should eliminate any possible nasties getting into my vapor.

red hot coils, regardless of type, produce oxides of which are poisonous. temp control fixes that and gurantees NEVER a burnt pull.

 

[IgnitorDemon]

the dab tornado looks legit but I just hate the look of the globe vaporizers, would rather have a straight sided one, metal or pyrex

nickel probably the worst, check this out from the CDC: http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/81-123/pdfs/0445.pdf
the guidelines for titanium are totally not as bad: http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/81-123/pdfs/0617.pdf

 

[2clicker]

the dab tornado looks legit but I just hate the look of the globe vaporizers, would rather have a straight sided one, metal or pyrex

nickel probably the worst, check this out from the CDC: http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/81-123/pdfs/0445.pdf
the guidelines for titanium are totally not as bad: http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/81-123/pdfs/0617.pdf

this person ive been conversing with on another forum seems to think titanium is easily the safest of all the options. i do not know exactly how accurate he is, but he seems to really know his shit.

as for nickel... i dont know. lots of ecig users using it on temp controlled devices. these devices ONLY work with nickel. well they work with other wire, but the temp control functionality only works with nickel wire. my guess is that nickel gets dangerous at a specific temp. and that the temp controlled devices do not allow the coil to reach those temps. so it that regard it would be totally safe.

honestly tho ANY wire option is dangerous at high temps. if it glows red at all that is bad. now how bad it is and what levels can really harm you are yet to be known. but i think eliminating the possibilty of nasties at all is ideal. for myself at least.

and im struggling with this change myself because i really love the form factor of short mech mods. i never wanted to mess with vv/vw. that is just more stuff that could fail on a device. i like that mech mods are pretty fail safe and can be super stealthy. easily pocketable.

so now im researching temp adjustable box mods. hopefully soon a "kick" style device will be made that can fit in a mech mod and regulate the coil temp. my ideal box mod HAS to have easy battery removal and be short. so far im not very keen on the options available due to them being sort of ugly and expensive.

so until i find that box mod i will keep running my tarsius prime with Ti wire. just have to be concious of the coil when using to eliminate any opirtunity of nasties.

i am keeping a close eye on this shit for myself and my FC fam. stay tuned.