Advanced E-cig users and oil/wax, how-to "one-hitter-quitter"

[2clicker]

well i had planned to modify an IGO-W base to move the center post to the side and out of the way to make room for larger coils. after some tinkering i found that it is much easier to simply shorten the posts to allow for more space above the posts. so i did that with an IGO-L base (same as igo-w, but only 2 posts) and it really allows for any kind of coil you can think of. i will be doing this to all of my igo bases.

side by side w/ igo-w

DBC mounted

this entails shortening the posts and screws... FYI

i have been using the stock igo-w cap w/ this setup and have had zero clearance issues.

 

[kingtut106]

Just asking a general question to anyone that has built a DBC. How long does it take for your DBC to glow? I know this will vary based on the gauge of the wire, ohms, and wraps so if you could include that it would be appreciated, thanks.

 

[gvape]

I would say it takes few seconds for it to glow maybe like 5 seconds.

Still dont like the flavor with the DBC, and I actually just installed a second one on to a new RDA I got and its going crazy. Sometimes its .9 ohm and sometimes its 1.5. I think the wire wrapping the ends together is creating a different connection and making the connection actually shorter.

 

[kingtut106]

I stopped twisting the ends together and have dealt with the small amount of fraying as a consequence. Initially, I was using 32g for my first DBC, but it was taking forever to heat up. I switched to 24g on my latest one and it seems to be more my preference. Also I didn't like how close the coil was to the top cap in my RDAs so I cleaned out my orchid and it was a perfect fit. The coil sits right at the top of the glass part and is 0.7 ohms using the 24g.

 

[2clicker]

I stopped twisting the ends together and have dealt with the small amount of fraying as a consequence. Initially, I was using 32g for my first DBC, but it was taking forever to heat up. I switched to 24g on my latest one and it seems to be more my preference. Also I didn't like how close the coil was to the top cap in my RDAs so I cleaned out my orchid and it was a perfect fit. The coil sits right at the top of the glass part and is 0.7 ohms using the 24g.

yeah the fraying is a non issue. just looks janky. thats why i wrap them up nice and tidy.

were you twisting 32gauge wire? or just using it as is? if not twisted i can see why it took so long to heat up.

and the height issue is why using set screws instead of button head screws is ideal. even more so is to modify the post like in my pics above. that way you can fit any coil imaginable in there w/out issue.

 

[matthend]

@2clicker how are you modifying the posts? Just cutting them off?
thanks, headroom seems to be my worst issue with this setup

 

[2clicker]

@2clicker how are you modifying the posts? Just cutting them off?
thanks, headroom seems to be my worst issue with this setup

yep. using a dremel w/ cutoff wheels. its like butter. after you cut the posts you then have to take an M2x0.4 tap and thread it a bit further into them. otherwise the screws wont go into them far enough.

and on top of that you also need to trim the screws down for the same reason. after that your golden.

 

[Ganking]

I think I am going to attempt the diamondback coil with a tobh atty I have. I'll be using 22 gauge kanthal and readyxwick 2mm. I'm just wondering if there's a tutorial or just some text about doing it properly. I see all these coils tied fancily to prevent fraying and stuff.

 

[2clicker]

@Ganking... check out the link in my sig below. i have some pics of the build there.

 

[farscaper]

some rxw that I used the wire in the wick bu just made a coil and inserted it into my kiss globe... needless to say it was amazing til it gunked cause its way under powered... anyone got some watts I can borrow lol.

 

[MileHighLife]

some rxw that I used the wire in the wick bu just made a coil and inserted it into my kiss globe... needless to say it was amazing til it gunked cause its way under powered... anyone got some watts I can borrow lol.

A little much?

 

[farscaper]

A little much?

yea it is.

actually I think if I had more that 10watts powering it the coil and wick like that would really perform like a champ.... the wick is like a big ceramic oil sponge and the whole thing is inside another ceramic cup to keep mess down to ziltch. my only complaint is the kiss with ego thread has really shitty airflow.
im new to building coils and wicks period... so this is imo an amazing first attempt... cause my second and third failed lol. you csn only bend and twist and play with the rxw so much before its all over the place.

 

[severalmore]

ok folks so here is a pic of my newly braided ceramic coiled ProTank2 base in dab mode. my first attempt netted me a 1.3ohm coil. this coil RIPS, but is a tad harsh. this was also the case on my IGO-L with the same wire. i am starting to think that the 28gauge kanthal is too hot for my throat. i am going to experiment with 30 and 32 gauge instead. does anyone know the gauge wire that kanger uses in their stock coils? they seem to work perfectly in that regard, but fuck silica. so far i much prefer my PT tanks in dab mode over my IGO-L. RDAs are cool, but the posts are t designed for our use. i love the SS cup the kanger coil heads provide. snd with ceramic wick they taste AMAZING! oh and i am near a gram thru my first PT coil and it is not even close to leaking. i do not think leaking is an issue with PT coils/heads in dab mode. a non issue IMO.

@Haywood, my mini PT3 arrived yesterday, but have only tried solids in it so far. rips good just like my other PTs do in dab mode.

as for liquid use... i expect better performance from the mPT3 in the cloud production and possibly flavor, but i still expect the same leakage issues as all the other PT tanks. im thinking maybe the aerotank may eliminate this due to its air path not being completely vertical. i will likely be getting a reg aerotank for solids and a mini aerotank (when they are available) for liquids.

oh and btw... i am pretty sure the internal metal parts of the PTs are indeed SS, but the top and bottom parts are plated.

at this point i will be using PT tanks only for both solids and liquids.

What about the new kanger Mow tanks? They have airflow control... I've had VERY good results taking thick, liquid oil and thinning it a little with pg/peg mix, the newer bdc with the wick inside--ive used about a gram of oil, no leaking no crappy taste...don't get it too hot and keep it horizontal or upside down, my trial run worked like a dream. The key I think is good quality product to begin with, the newer coils, and just going slow...take a couple hits, let it cool...

 

[2clicker]

What about the new kanger Mow tanks? They have airflow control... I've had VERY good results taking thick, liquid oil and thinning it a little with pg/peg mix, the newer bdc with the wick inside--ive used about a gram of oil, no leaking no crappy taste...don't get it too hot and keep it horizontal or upside down, my trial run worked like a dream. The key I think is good quality product to begin with, the newer coils, and just going slow...take a couple hits, let it cool...

im not familiar with the mow tanks. i have stopped using tanks for dabbing altogether. i use an aerotank mini for ejmix and coil it myself with RXW.

all dabbing is done in an RDA. still working on different coils all the time. been playing with some rigid ceramic and wickless coil ideas as well.

 

[farscaper]

im loving this one. RXW 4mm wick (2 pieces of 2mm) 28g kanthal clocked at 1.76ohm and in a kiss globe atty.

hits like a champ and the rxw is a sponge to any oil in the cup. just keeps hitting and hitting.... and hitting...

ive been trying out a smoktech magneto my buddy lent me and I actually like my ecom c variable wattage better at 10.

some love mods... but I think I just like a good regulated battery.

 

[arrr]

Lookingr good @farscaper . It would be nice if the kiss products came in 510 thread. It seems the globe used to but are currently unavailable.

I successfully rebuilt the cloupor m2 and am using it on top of my nemesis in 18350 mode. It is working extreme well.

I like having the ceramic cup as opposed to using the igo-w with a dbc. Less maintenace as I don't have to worry about scraping the bottom of igo for reclaim.

 

[farscaper]

Lookingr good @farscaper . It would be nice if the kiss products came in 510 thread. It seems the globe used to but are currently unavailable.

I successfully rebuilt the cloupor m2 and am using it on top of my nemesis in 18350 mode. It is working extreme well.

I like having the ceramic cup as opposed to using the igo-w with a dbc. Less maintenace as I don't have to worry about scraping the bottom of igo for reclaim.

whats the head assembly on that M2 look like? thats a smooth looking piece of atty! I really like how it looks but they make sure to turn it away on the manufacturers site so you cant see it.

the kiss I have is ego threaded. so an adapter works fine for the magneto. its 510 only.

 

[arrr]

@farscaper check this post out. https://www.fasttech.com/forums/1670901/t/1373212/cloutank-m2-e-solid-coil-rebuild-with-photos

 

[2clicker]

what are everyones thoughts on titanium wire? been thinking about trying some.

 

[farscaper]

what are everyones thoughts on titanium wire? been thinking about trying some.

it's worth a try. when I initially got my gr2 ti kiss atty it was tasty for a min. it may have been just that onevwas constructed poorly but the coil broke really quick. it was attached to silver non resistive wire crimped to the coil with brass crimps. in an rda I think the application would work better since the legs wont be as long. the internal readyxwick coils may work well with it since so little is required.

 

[TeeJay1952]

it's worth a try. when I initially got my gr2 ti kiss atty it was tasty for a min. it may have been just that onevwas constructed poorly but the coil broke really quick. it was attached to silver non resistive wire crimped to the coil with brass crimps. in an rda I think the application would work better since the legs wont be as long. the internal readyxwick coils may work well with it since so little is required.

I know you guys read that, nod your head and think about what was said.
It is Russian to me. No knock on you. The ignorance is mine. The gist is that Wax pen parts are swap-able and you need to replace the middle piece (atty?) but some of you prefer to rewire your own. Is that it?

 

[farscaper]

I know you guys read that, nod your head and think about what was said.
It is Russian to me. No knock on you. The ignorance is mine. The gist is that Wax pen parts are swap-able and you need to replace the middle piece (atty?) but some of you prefer to rewire your own. Is that it?

yup... you can just buy the head asymbly pre made and install it but I find I like to clean mine pretty regular (heavy user)

the globe attachments are all basically the same.

thers a base to connect to the battery and the globe mouth piece goes over that. what screws into that is call a "head" which contains a ceramic cup with wick and coil to contain concentrate. that sits inside the head body. the negative wire gets pinned against the body of the head unit by an insulator of silicone or rubber and the potitive side goes through the center of the insulating plug and is affixed via a centerpin.

 

[TeeJay1952]

OK are we looking to
1. Save money by rebuilding
2. Improve performance (more extraction or flavor)
3.Extend life of pen
4. Just another hobby (look what I can do!) {not that there is anything wrong with that.}

 

[farscaper]

OK are we looking to
1. Save money by rebuilding
2. Improve performance (more extraction or flavor)
3.Extend life of pen
4. Just another hobby (look what I can do!) {not that there is anything wrong with that.}

all of the above.

1. ive rebuilt one head a dozen times for the price of one new head.
2.diffrent resistance coils react to diffrent wattages to create diffrent vaping experiences. (my buddy loves a low ohm hot coil that makes concentrate taste hashier while I like a 1.5 to 2 ohm cause it tends to vape better)
3. rebuilding can certainly save a battery if you build it right... but it is a little technical so caution should be exercised when rebuilding cause you can short out and kill a battery accidentally.
4. yup another hobby... glass collections take up alot of space and I never get to fiddle with them... plus its a new thing to tinker with as you mentioned.

its a choice though... not everyone does it.

 

[solomon7]

The DBC is awesome but even on mechanical mods I find it to be really slow to heat up, and the flavor to be a bit lacking.
My favorite build so far has been taking .5 ribbon kanthal , OR .4 and 32g tiger twisted, and wrapping around a 3/64" drill bit to around 1.7-2 ohms.

Insert 2mm RXW or Ekowool then slightly squish the coil almost flat with pliers across the length of the coil taking care to keep all the coils as parallel as possible still (a bit tricky).

If done right it'll pretty much make a wire paddle from almost the posts to almost the rim, then get it as close to the deck as possible.

Another way to make a flat paddle would be 2 1/16" bits side by side the n carefully sliding in wick then gently squishing the coil a bit more, but I think the first method is easier with tiger twisted wire.
I use one air hole on the opposite side from the coil so as not to blow stuff off it.

I use a DNA 30 and have amazing results with this setup at only 13 watts (5 volts) in 2-3 seconds of power at most. Nail strength at 15 and at 30 watts (7.74 Volts) friggin ridculous , all with very minimal reclaim, and am just wondering if ya'll mechanical guys could try or have tried this build and tell me what ya think.
I'm currently building a dual coil version of it, both coils on the same side sharing a wick, with .4 and 34g tiger twisted, still at 1.8 ohms. This should provide half of the entire deck for goodies!