2ZM by Herbaltherm

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
I think there are still a few units of the previous videos to buy, as Ryan hasn't listed everything on the online store. Contact them via the online contact form for further information or join the HerbalTherm forum 🤞


He's closed down for a couple weeks and will post the rest of them on 12-09.

I think all those in the videos that're not listed as sold on the site are still available, except 18.
 
coolbreeze,
  • Like
Reactions: DgN'R

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
w00t!
IMG-0908.jpg
IMG-0912.jpg
 

DgN'R

I'm No Superman!
Well.. after a week's use of the 2ZM, I'm very satisfied..

With two Molicel P28A batteries I can get about dozen sessions of 3-5 draws each before reaching 3V. Of course, don't hesitate to recharge as often as possible.

The 19/26 glass connection offers several possibilities, if a 19/26 stem is used, the rimmed of the basket screen is very, very close to the inner screen of the female glass which leads to much more heating (more conduction). I don't know if this is normal, but the two 19/26 mouthpieces I received with my 2ZM remain a little loose once inserted and allow the mouthpiece to be turned without having to remove it. Is this normal? :shrug: I know it's not good to remove the stem by turning it (it's better to rock it back and forth to release it because only a drop of epoxy will prevent the glass from turning (although it is also maintained by the superior holder)), so maybe it's normal? I have tried with other 19/26 stems from other manufacturers and this does not happen and holds firmly.

Anyway, 19/26 is not my preference. For me, using 19/22 or 19/19 stems is much better (more convection). Given the consequent heating of the 2ZM compared with my Milaana, I thought I'd have to use a mouthpiece with a high cooling capacity, but it's not the case. With my Milaana 2 I had added glass beads to my XLjr 19/19 mouthpiece because I found the draw a little too hot for my taste with the short stem. It turns out that the 2ZM airflow is much more consistent too, allowing me to use the XLjr without beads, which is just perfect (I like it when the airflow is very open and unrestricted). AVB is also more uniform without beads or using 19/26 (of course it depends on your preferences).





My method is relatively simple, I pre-heat for 5 seconds then I start to pull without releasing the button (not pulsing) but rather by adapting my inhalation (that is to say that I start very slowly and I increase progressively (like a sticky brick)). Once initial preheating is complete, you are able to make consecutive draws if you wish without having to preheat for each shot (at this point you may need to start pulsing according to your inhalations). This way, I get delicious clouds and despite the wood in the air path, Maple is fairly neutral and is one of my tastiest vapes (I'd love to see a 4Mi in Maple because I can always taste the Walnut). The size is also much smaller than I expected (in pictures it looks really huge, but the handling is really great and stays relatively cool compared to the TM toaster). Wood is also very well worked and expresses itself naturally. A 2ZM in 21700 (given that size is not an issue in this design) would have been really excellent. If you like unregulated vapes, I can only recommend it. It's a real beast!

Season 4 Train GIF by Westworld HBO


I'm now looking forward to 4MD and 4Mi, which will offer a very complete environment :cool:
 

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
I've been trying variations on @popitup's Juice Box. The dome/elbow adds a visual indicator and in this case helps keep the heat nice and even throughout the load somehow. I usually preheat for 10 sec, let it soak for 10 sec, and then heat again for ~5 until I see production starting, and then let up. I use it like a Brick as well, I agree.
IMG-0975.jpg

Lol, this works too!
IMG-0985.jpg
 
Last edited:

DgN'R

I'm No Superman!
Wonderful! I'd never considered using a hose, but I'll see if I can cobble something together with my Super Surfer glass to try this!

Really beautiful your 2ZM :nod:
 

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
Wonderful! I'd never considered using a hose, but I'll see if I can cobble something together with my Super Surfer glass to try this!

Really beautiful your 2ZM :nod:
It's a big one so it's nice to use it on the desktop sometimes. These are so much fun!
 
coolbreeze,
  • Like
Reactions: Trackrat

stonedBBer

Well-Known Member
I've been trying variations on @popitup's Juice Box. The dome/elbow adds a visual indicator and in this case helps keep the heat nice and even throughout the load somehow. I usually preheat for 10 sec, let it soak for 10 sec, and then heat again for ~5 until I see production starting, and then let up. I use it like a Brick as well, I agree.
IMG-0975.jpg

Lol, this works too!
IMG-0985.jpg
Where did you get that whip and that glass jfc it's pretty
 

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
Where did you get that whip and that glass jfc it's pretty
The whip is from elev8, the glass adapters are from Sticky Brick Labs, the mouthpiece is by Steve K. at elev8 Glass, and the hammer pipe is by Molten Imagination, purchased from Tako Glass.

The 2ZM is a little big for my hand so once someone mentioned it being like a Brick, the wheels started turning. It's like an electric Hydrobrick. One day I will muster the foolhardiness necessary to try a hydratube! ; )
 
Last edited:

ADULTSWIM

All Kids Outta The Pool!
I got unlucky with the craftsmanship. In the first Picture you can see the top wood ungluing from the heater body. I hope the wiring is clear in the last pic. The setup is wired to auto fire once its plugged in and to only use one push button for the 18650 unregulated. If someone would be kind enough to take a picture of the added safety fuse on the more recent builds.
 
Last edited:

DgN'R

I'm No Superman!
Wow.. nice idea and good job dude :tup:

What type of power jack did you use? Could develop your wiring? How do you insert the removal strip between the wood and the battery box? Did you unstick the left wood? It's a fucking good idea! I like it!

Thank you for sharing!

Was it you who unstick the heater glass? I'm curious..

In your picture it looks like the purple cable has overheated? what is it? :hmm:



Regarding the fuse, Ryan was supposed to make a video about it.. but it seems he's busy with other things.. the fuse was initialy used to prevent short circuits when replacing the heater glass..

I wanted to have a fuse that was sized so it had a little headroom over the usable amperage. This turns out to be a 10 Amp fuse. The fuse was tested multiple times with both soft and hard shorts. In both cases the fuse blew as they are standard mini automotive fast-blow fuses. This will be an easy field retrofit as it will be in-line in the wire that goes to the battery terminal to the button.

Here's a picture, I hope it helps:

 

ADULTSWIM

All Kids Outta The Pool!
What type of power jack did you use?
10A DC Power Jack Socket
Could develop your wiring?
this pic shows the wiring. i'll make something more color coordinated later and post.
How do you insert the removal strip between the wood and the battery box? Did you unstick the left wood?
The body and the 3D printed battery caddy was not glued 100% down. So i was able to squeeze in a red battery removal strip with some glue.
Was it you who unstick the heater glass? I'm curious..
No, I still have not been able to remove the heater. The epoxy is keeping the glass in place and i'm not gonna force it out. The epoxy is not making this project very DIY.
In your picture it looks like the purple cable has overheated? what is it? :hmm:
The cable is burned because a short was caused having the DC power and battery go through the single push button. I bypassed the push button solving the problem and causing the device to auto fire once plugged in. If you want the device to not auto fire when plugged in then you're gonna need a 10A fuse, like the one you have pictured.
 
Last edited:

ADULTSWIM

All Kids Outta The Pool!
Was it you who unstick the heater glass? I'm curious..
well it has come to pass and i have slightly removed the glass. After heating my 2ZM for 5 min at 3 volts the glue in the chamber softened and i was able to move the glass. I started to pull the glass out and then i noticed that the mesh coil and stripped wiring was coming out. So i stopped and put everything back as carefully as i could. I then tested the 2Zm and a hot spot stripe right down the middle is now locked in. Im happy my device still works but i now have PTSD and won't be going back in for another disassembly. It looks like you can't remove the glass tube without taking the coil out with it, i really hope i'm wrong on this.
 

coolbreeze

Well-Known Member
Wish he would list the damn pictures of them.....lol
In the linked pic, the one on the left (20) and the one on the bottom right (15) are still available in the store for $250.
Just popped in to reiterate how much I'm enjoying this vape. I've gotten comfortable with it, rarely any unevenness at all whatever the MP/stem. Great flavor and effects. I think $250's a great deal for these.
 
Last edited:

oddjobold

Vape swap shop
well it has come to pass and i have slightly removed the glass. After heating my 2ZM for 5 min at 3 volts the glue in the chamber softened and i was able to move the glass. I started to pull the glass out and then i noticed that the mesh coil and stripped wiring was coming out. So i stopped and put everything back as carefully as i could. I then tested the 2Zm and a hot spot stripe right down the middle is now locked in. Im happy my device still works but i now have PTSD and won't be going back in for another disassembly. It looks like you can't remove the glass tube without taking the coil out with it, i really hope i'm wrong on this.

If i want a plug in, ill buy the 4MD. Dont think its worth the risk. Although i do admire your ingenuity.

Only problems with the 2ZM is when people have messed with the glass.
 
oddjobold,
  • Like
Reactions: coolbreeze
Top Bottom