Search results

@herbivore21 I haven't seen any spots after a press...it all comes up on the dabber...hold the parchment up to led light and it looks brand new except for the crease...could that mean that it's "good" for lack of a better term? Beautiful dab by the way :)

@herbivore21 I missed that...so the Reynold's brand is no go or is it cool? Can you give me a brief snippet of why we shouldn't use parchment for rosintech? I just might go arbor press instead of vice so that I might be able to use these as insulators between heat plates and tool...

Ok, nothing on craigslist in my area. I'm thinking the 1 ton arbor press from harbor freight might be the way to go...$40...decent vices are more than that...what do you all think?

I used JB weld for the parts that needed bonding together, however, I used regular epoxy to fill the backs of the heating plates for strength. I know now that there really is a high temp epoxy being that I saw it at a different hardware store and was labeled as such. I thought the epoxy I used...

Ok...need some tech help here...I'm using @Been Vapin style press, so the plates are parallel to the ground, opposite the way a vice is. Being that the jaws swivel on mine, they very often don't line up...now my plates are from a 2 inch straightener, presses yield pretty good. However, being...

^^^^Wow, just wow....the envy is pouring out of me lol!

@Joel W. Thanks for the reply and thanks for doing that experimentation. I think I might refrain from making pucks and just arrange the nugs. My first press was with a decent sized bud and the oil went to the edge of the parchment (using the c-clamp Milwaukee vice grip/wood clamp/removed hair...

So are pucks on the outs now with vise/clamp tech? Only pucks for the t-shirt style press?

As @farscaper said, I can attest to thicker PTFE being a no go. I put iso/oil mix in a PTFE bowl that had some flex to it. Could not get the purged oil to come out of the bowl at all.

Could you snap some pics of what you have now sometime?

@61reissue resistance is futile and welcome to the party :rockon: And the answer to your question of doing a vadab and still standing....tolerance lol, a very unfortunate thing hehe

Ok damn, I'm buzzed, just had my 500th different beer at WOB...but damn, those last few post made me really lol. Geologists, I'm not so sure...but innovators, free thinkers, and just out and out brainstorming (this thread and some others)....we have some damn intelligent people here and I just...

Nah, @farscaper is using some 1/2" tubing and a dowel...nice and low tech/cost :)

And that is why knowledge is power. However, if you don't know, you gotta ask...that's what we do, that's why we are a community...we help each other. You should never be ashamed or embarrassed to ask a question...better to ask than be in the dark and not know.

Exactly, springs are useless in that type of device; it takes away from the pressure; at least the way it's configured there, imho. In a "t-shirt style" press, I would not want any springs unless they were springs that aided in me adding more pressure...so instead of body weight, a spring system...

Yup, see @Been Vapin posts...I will try that first. Or try the arbor press/metal plates/torch/IR Gun method.

Or you can get the plates I posted before and hook them to a PID...you could easily reinforce what I showed...I would do it but I don't know if I need anything else but the plates and PIDs?

Bro, on the ends of the clamp, the part where the two pivoting ends are, do you have additional metal plate there to spread the force of the load on the heating plates so it's not focused on a very small area? Are you using a new c-clamp every time you modify your design? Oh and new parts list...

I'd like to know as well...maybe just soak just the nail part in iso?

@Been Vapin what type of screen is that and where do we buy them from? I have two small slick sheets I will try as well when I'm ready.