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@The Stray Fox - it will be interesting to know what survives the culling. Where are things leaning so far?

@cybrguy ...and still useful :cheers: @The Stray Fox - how do you decide which to hit?

Lamp components often available at your favorite hardware store.

The simple risk of gouging is competition. Bring it on!

@BabyFacedFinster - Thanks for that. Those DY7-nnnn caps should have a true separation between clicks. They may also have a habit of a last cooldown click when your session well over with. These are 'high iron' caps. They pull the most power out of an IH. Where these caps pull 80 watts, a...

Some people wear Rolex - Others carry DynaVap.

That's some cool art @stark1

I would think that in volume, with a decent fabrication drawing, you could get any ti tip you want for about $10-15 each. There is no magic there.

George is a complex man.

DynaVap is still trying to find their price-point. They haven't reached it yet LOL

If you draw up a fab drawing for a tip, post it online for quote. At some limited quantity you'll get a bid worth chasing. Better be a damn good drawing if you want it to work first time out. That's the goal, right?

Any word on an ETA for a O-v2?

I'm in lab doing IH work @Planck Thanks for the concern :cheers: The testing is the best part of the work.

There is a happy sweet spot @Planck .

Also known as 'electrical reference depth'. Caps are pretty thin, fortunately. Great illustration!

The new cap will tell a lot. A cap that clicks in 3-4 seconds in a Caldron is a keeper. It is an older high iron cap that links hard with the magnetic field. The new cap will be a Goldilocks cap in a hot heater. You can tell me I'm wrong when you get the new cap and you will not hurt my...

Excellent @BabyFacedFinster - that is the right way of thinking about it. The other equation is the overall power the IH puts out. If the deeper seat is 'hyper', you can calm this by snipping one of the capacitors. The click profile will remain the same but the heating rate will be slower...

The IH is similar to the flame. A flame up towards digger adds more heat. With an IH, the clicker "past the end of the coil" also adds more heat. The key element is to understand that the clicker is a 'delay'. The closer the clicker is to the center of the coil, the faster it will click...

I find that the face of the cap flush with the bottom of the coil does very well as a generic starting point. This won't cloud up the first draw, but if you follow George's technique, the second will be a ball buster. If you do go for the hottest hit on the first heating, you will very likely...

@BabyFacedFinster - https://www.ebay.com/itm/333378056157 You can always remove the adhesive.