Dynavap VapCap

Hippie said:

For me, no carb = no flavour
So I recommend the pinch n roll technique
I put the cap on with the digger outer pointing to the carb, to help locate the hole
and pinch the stem in the carb (airport) region so you can rotate the stem to regulate the airflow as you draw

As shown here

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George always harps on this. I must admit I have gotten into the habit of feathering the airports on most of my Dynavaps. I recently got the M7XL and got a Halo tip. Figured out how to adjust the condenser depth and choked it down quite a bit based on video from Lee at TTB. I do not touch the airport and get great results. On the other hand Austyn recommends feathering his new vape as that was how it was designed.

the 21m body with the air hole seems to be the best for me, the 2 part hole with easy to find tactical feel is amazing

WirtDog said:

George always harps on this. I must admit I have gotten into the habit of feathering the airports on most of my Dynavaps. I recently got the M7XL and got a Halo tip. Figured out how to adjust the condenser depth and choked it down quite a bit based on video from Lee at TTB. I do not touch the airport and get great results. On the other hand Austyn recommends feathering his new vape as that was how it was designed.

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I don't use the the ariport to carb and I get big, fat hits (I do sometimes feather the end of the last hit, when there's little left). It's about building heat in the bowl, then the vapor just pours out. I do feather the Simrell but I think it's because the corkscrew and gap changes the mechanics of the air/vapor flow, compared to George's description.

With the G3, I heat low and slow and get a super-even, deep tobacco roast that finishes the bowl in one go. I don't carb it at all and get thick vapor.

I use a pocket torch to get my best results. In my experience, torching allows more heat to build than an IH does, especially with the new tips (Helix, M7). I do appreciate how an IH helps tame older Ti tips, though. (I use a Wand or Flite).

coolbreeze said:

With the G3, I heat low and slow and get a super-even, deep tobacco roast that finishes the bowl in one go. I don't carb it at all and get thick vapor.

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That's what I'm aiming for.
Closed carb, slow heat up and that's it ? No need for extra thermal mass ?

Radwin Bodnic said:

That's what I'm aiming for.
Closed carb, slow heat up and that's it ? No need for extra thermal mass ?

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Slow heat up is the key, yes. (A slower heat up is almost always the answer to Dynavap heating issues). I leave the carb open, but it will work closed as well. I think there's less need for extra mass than with a metal tip: the G3 heats a little more aggressively or at least it's darker at the clicks than with metal. It also seems to roast more evenly.

The G3 is actually a really nice Dynavap. For me it may be their perfect one-heat roaster.

EDIT: I just tried the same technique on my B and it did really well, too. Slightly less dark, still a pretty even roast. The B's also a little easier to handle. I really like the G's kit, though, so it might be my preference.

coolbreeze said:

I don't use the the ariport to carb and I get big, fat hits (I do sometimes feather the end of the last hit, when there's little left). It's about building heat in the bowl, then the vapor just pours out. I do feather the Simrell but I think it's because the corkscrew and gap changes the mechanics of the air/vapor flow, compared to George's description.

With the G3, I heat low and slow and get a super-even, deep tobacco roast that finishes the bowl in one go. I don't carb it at all and get thick vapor.

I use a pocket torch to get my best results. In my experience, torching allows more heat to build than an IH does, especially with the new tips (Helix, M7). I do appreciate how an IH helps tame older Ti tips, though. (I use a Wand or Flite).

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Absolutely agree with these views. Only thing I might add would be if your DV vape has an adjustable condenser you have the option to control air intake via condenser depth and thus can leave the airport untouched. I have always opted for max airflow and fanning airport so this different way of managing air intake is new to me. Sure most DV users know this. I just fell into a pattern of controlling at the airport.

Radwin Bodnic said:

Interesting. I wanted to try a fmj to lower the number of reheats but it might feel underwhelming ?
Maybe the copper could give a bigger first hit than the steel ?

Thanks

I'd really like to turn this device into a conduction one hitter...

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I doubt the copper would help much, I think the problem is the glass bowl. I do have a copper FMJ I could test if you want me to though. I'm sure you could preheat the bowl before attaching the AC/FMJ to easily one hit it if you want to do it that way. I think the glass holds heat well enough and the bowl is small enough that the easiest way to one hit it would be to figure out a technique with the standard cap, like what coolbreeze was saying. That way you're heating the glass more directly while heating the cap. It will probably be harder to one hit whole nugs though, regardless of cap.

If I understand correctly from a nerd perspective fluttering the carb creates variable air pressure turbulence which enables moments where air is pulled harder than usual(the moment your finger covers the hole). Covering the hole in a cyclic motion creates a kind of bellowing air motion that injects air with vapor in a more precise dynamic way than no carb.

The tradeoff is you have to constantly finger the hole (heh) to make use of this mechanic and if you try hitting with a completely open carb its likely way too much airflow from the carb down the stem and not enough air pressure to properly pull air through the cap, tip, screen, condenser, to the mouthpiece.

Xmas in July sale, 15% off! They also have the Classic M+in stock for $65:

Not a huge savings but an excellent M (despite the lack of bark).

coolbreeze said:

Xmas in July sale, 15% off! They also have the Classic M+in stock for $65:

The "M" Plus - Classic

The Classic "M" Plus comes with a smoother, classic looking stem than our standard M Plus. The DynaVap “M” is our most popular battery-free dry herb vaporizer.

www.dynavap.com

Not a huge savings but an excellent M (despite the lack of bark).

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Isn’t that a replica of an early M stem?

jbm said:

Isn’t that a replica of an early M stem?

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It's the same stem as the M+ but without the texture. The intention was to make it more like the earlier Ms, so not a replica exactly, just made in the same vein.

In for a few parts and pieces, including a BB6 glass midsection... Still very happy with armored cap. Took a two week hiatus from MM; glad I didn't forget all the Dynavap finessse and Dynaspin-flute-lesssons. TBF it is just harder to combust with that cap.

CR

White Widow/Woodscents wake and bake--cheers!

I noticed that 8mm tips (Dynavap, Tempest, Convector, etc.) fit the Dani Fusion Stems if you remove two blue seals from the mouthpiece of the Mighty and carefully screw the tip in. It's leak-proof, sits firmly, and the seals can withstand the heat.

I've tried a few different magnets (including some that are 3kg of force, doubled) with the g3 and none of them can remove the cap.
Would a dynamag be strong enough to remove the cap ? only the click discs seem to be magnetic but not the cap itself. Maybe there's simply not enough magnetic mass inside the cap...

Do you have any advice ?

Radwin Bodnic said:

I've tried a few different magnets (including some that are 3kg of force, doubled) with the g3 and none of them can remove the cap.
Would a dynamag be strong enough to remove the cap ? only the click discs seem to be magnetic but not the cap itself. Maybe there's simply not enough magnetic mass inside the cap...

Do you have any advice ?

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I haven't really used the magnet as a decapper, just a heat sink. It cools it quickly and I just pull the cap off after a minute or so. Otherwise I guess you could use a leather loop.

If it's a crimp cap you can pinch the cap a little so it becomes oval and the crimp indents don't grip the tip so much
or take a pair of pliers and flatten the crimp indents a little but that will be a permanent modification

Depending on which tip you're using you can unscrew the crimp caps with a magnet
I'm not a fan of the crimps tho so I usually pinch the cap or flatten the crimps a little tho to be honest

Oooh I found the pinch video

coolbreeze said:

Otherwise I guess you could use a leather loop.

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I try to keep it as minimal as possible for an out and about case. I'd like to have the magnet incorporated to the stash rather than a hanging leather loop...

Hippie said:

If it's a crimp cap you can pinch the cap a little so it becomes oval and the crimp indents don't grip the tip so much

Click to expand...

That's what I've done so far but maybe I need to pinch it more.

Hippie said:

Depending on which tip you're using you can unscrew the crimp caps with a magnet

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I'm using the G3 and the cap has quite some grip on the frosted glass...

Anyway, thank to both of you for your help !

So I've been playing around w the few glass stems I picked up.

My next step is to get a few wood stems and try them. I think there are a few things I would like to ask about.

I am thinking I want to try and have all the Dv parts in Titanium,.
Are most wooden stem Dv pipes lined? Ss, glass or ti?

Do most like having wood for a mouthpiece or something else?

Flotsam said:

So I've been playing around w the few glass stems I picked up.

My next step is to get a few wood stems and try them. I think there are a few things I would like to ask about.

I am thinking I want to try and have all the Dv parts in Titanium,.
Are most wooden stem Dv pipes lined? Ss, glass or ti?

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I'm not sure that most are, but I do think that it is increasingly common to find lined DV stems, usually Stainless, but often glass, too. I don't think I've come across a Ti lined stem, tbh.

Flotsam said:

Do most like having wood for a mouthpiece or something else?

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I prefer the look of wooden ones but I prefer the feel of metal, glass, or acrylic. I guess you could rate each likely choice by how it will be/look with parts shared from the others, etc. You could maybe have something made of each, to try in various combos.

coolbreeze said:

I'm not sure that most are, but I do think that it is increasingly common to find lined DV stems, usually Stainless, but often glass, too. I don't think I've come across a Ti lined stem, tbh.

I prefer the look of wooden ones but I prefer the feel of metal, glass, or acrylic. I guess you could rate each likely choice by how it will be/look with parts shared from the others, etc. You could maybe have something made of each, to try in various combos.

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I agree with your mouthpiece preference.

i am very enamored with this tip and if i remember correctly you suggested a perforated cap to mate with it.



i also do have this Ti Condenser
i thought this would be a liner for the wooden stem part.
so i want to add some type of mouthpiece that will mate with the wooden stem. I'm thinking of maybe 3rd party as i don't want to purchase another XL condenser that has the DV mouthpiece.

I guess right now the problem i am having is not visually how this goes together around the wood. I would assume friction fit, but not familiar with best practices.

I have become interested in another longer wooden stem , like ~ 120mm or so. So that may be custom length and thinking just lining it with glass tubing

Flotsam said:

I agree with your mouthpiece preference.

i am very enamored with this tip and if i remember correctly you suggested a perforated cap to mate with it.

Click to expand...

Yeah, I do love that combo. It's very different because of the airflow, so it's nice for direct to lung hits and even for water pipe hits. For me it's most productive with a slightly aggressive heating by torch, and that's when the airflow really shines.

Flotsam said:

i also do have this Ti Condenser

i thought this would be a liner for the wooden stem part.
so i want to add some type of mouthpiece that will mate with the wooden stem. I'm thinking of maybe 3rd party as i don't want to purchase another XL condenser that has the DV mouthpiece.

Click to expand...

I am not sure it would work, since the condenser would take all the room within the length of the stem, leaving none for the separate mouthpiece to fit, if that makes sense. But Dovetail makes spinning mouthpieces that will work with your condenser like one from Dynavap. Some makers integrate the mouthpiece onto the condenser, like Rogue Waxworks.

Flotsam said:

I guess right now the problem i am having is not visually how this goes together around the wood. I would assume friction fit, but not familiar with best practices.

Click to expand...

The dynavap style uses two o-rings to keep the mouthpiece in place on the condenser and a third o-ring to help keep it centered in the stem. The middle of the three also friction fits the stem, keeping the whole thing in place while allowing the MP to spin. With the newer extendable mouthpiece and stem combos, the MP itself is o-ringed into the stem. Those can be used with no condenser since it's the MP itself that holds things together and in place.

So, the top is the standard DV spinnig MP setup; below is the standard MXL mouthpiece/stem parts assembled; and bottom is a condenser with integrated wooden mouthpiece. Only the top setup spins, the other two are stationary.

Flotsam said:

I have become interested in another longer wooden stem , like ~ 120mm or so. So that may be custom length and thinking just lining it with glass tubing

Click to expand...

Yeah, the Aezhen stems are a little longer and glass lined. Those are really sweet, and a great approach. If you can find the right glass it should be awesome!

Loving the size of the G3 - great bundle too

Thanks Coolbreeze so lots to consider in picking our some wooden stems
Kind of liking the Rogue Wax works options but pinners are out of stock

i came across this which is a nice listing of vendors

coolbreeze said:

The dynavap style uses two o-rings to keep the mouthpiece in place on the condenser and a third o-ring to help keep it centered in the stem. The middle of the three also friction fits the stem, keeping the whole thing in place while allowing the MP to spin. With the newer extendable mouthpiece and stem combos, the MP itself is o-ringed into the stem. Those can be used with no condenser since it's the MP itself that holds things together and in place.

So, the top is the standard DV spinnig MP setup; below is the standard MXL mouthpiece/stem parts assembled; and bottom is a condenser with integrated wooden mouthpiece. Only the top setup spins, the other two are stationary.

Click to expand...

Great post!