Dynavap VapCap

absolutk said:

If the G3 is all glass, how is it compatible (but not recommended) with induction heaters as the web page states?

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My guess is that a slow flame allows the glass to absorb more energy than the quick heater does heating just the cap? "Compatible but not recommended" might mean, "it'll heat the cap, but the glass won't absorb enough radiant heat to make vapor at the clicks."

Actually i just tried it and this is exactly how it seems: the cap clicks at a normal time but there's not enough heat in the tip to roast. Two b2b heatings yielded almost no flavor even.

Interesting. I always thought that during heating (induction or flame), it was the chamber that heated up, which, via conduction and radiation heated the cap, which clicked when the duo reached the right temp.

Based on your observation, the cap seems to be ferrous as well, and independently heats (and clicks) when exposed to energy via either source. Given how little thermal mass the cap itself has, and, therefore, its near-inability to transfer any meaningful heat to the glass chamber (does it even raise it above room temperature?), calling induction heaters as “compatible” seems to be incorrect, won’t you agree?

coolbreeze said:

My guess is that a slow flame allows the glass to absorb more energy than the quick heater does heating just the cap? "Compatible but not recommended" might mean, "it'll heat the cap, but the glass won't absorb enough radiant heat to make vapor at the clicks."

Actually i just tried it and this is exactly how it seems: the cap clicks at a normal time but there's not enough heat in the tip to roast. Two b2b heatings yielded almost no flavor even.

Click to expand...

absolutk said:

Interesting. I always thought that during heating (induction or flame), it was the chamber that heated up, which, via conduction and radiation heated the cap, which clicked when the duo reached the right temp.

Click to expand...

My understanding is that the cap radiates/conducts heat to the bowl quickly enough to begin to roast the herbs by the time the cap clicks. I think the bowl even slows the heating of the cap until it's caught up. It's possible I guess that some induction heating of the bowl would accelerate the process, but given how it works with a flame, it's plain that the bowl gets heat from the cap--the cap is right in the flame, the bowl is 'protected' from the flame by the cap, etc. The cap must transfer heat to the bowl.

absolutk said:

Based on your observation, the cap seems to be ferrous as well, and independently heats (and clicks) when exposed to energy via either source.

Click to expand...

I know the cap is ferrous, and it does react to either source. An IH will heat the cap to click temp on the glass bowl.

absolutk said:

Given how little thermal mass the cap itself has, and, therefore, its near-inability to transfer any meaningful heat to the glass chamber (does it even raise it above room temperature?), calling induction heaters as “compatible” seems to be incorrect, won’t you agree?

Click to expand...

It does indeed seem a stretch. My first test above was with with the Wand/SK insert and after two rounds it just wasn't very hot. I just tried it again with the Camouflet Inductor and turning it down and using it back-to-back you can actually get it going. But it never really got as productive as you would expect with the cumulative heat. Hits were weak to almost normal. I hope others will chime in but so far I'm not getting a lot of satisfaction with an IH. Otoh, it's really good with a torch.

coolbreeze said:

My understanding is that the cap radiates/conducts heat to the bowl quickly enough to begin to roast the herbs by the time the cap clicks. I think the bowl even slows the heating of the cap until it's caught up. It's possible I guess that some induction heating of the bowl would accelerate the process, but given how it works with a flame, it's plain that the bowl gets heat from the cap--the cap is right in the flame, the bowl is 'protected' from the flame by the cap, etc. The cap must transfer heat to the bowl.

I know the cap is ferrous, and it does react to either source. An IH will heat the cap to click temp on the glass bowl.

It does indeed seem a stretch. My first test above was with with the Wand/SK insert and after two rounds it just wasn't very hot. I just tried it again with the Camouflet Inductor and turning it down and using it back-to-back you can actually get it going. But it never really got as productive as you would expect with the cumulative heat. Hits were weak to almost normal. I hope others will chime in but so far I'm not getting a lot of satisfaction with an IH. Otoh, it's really good with a torch.

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Hi All. I don't have a G3 but I do have a similar glass dynavap compatible stem from the folks at PTGlass. What you're describing above is correct. You can get things going with many heatings because it takes a while for the heat to transfer enough energy from the hot cap to the surrounding glass bowl. Once the bowl is hot enough, the vapor flows much better but the whole process takes a while.

Edit: I forgot to mention. This is all in the context of using the Wand (an induction heater) to heat.

The real reason is because the metal tips expand significantly more during heating than glass, which promotes better contact between the cap and tip, improving conduction heat transfer. Induction is directly heating the magnetic cap, causing thermal expansion, with almost no radiant or convective heat transfer occurring directly on the tip like when using a torch.

The tip/oven is supposed to draw heat from the cap until the system reaches equilibrium, thus, a *click*
If contact is poor you'll insulate the cap from the tip and produce a click before the oven is sufficiently heated.

That said, stainless steel and grade 1/2 titanium also conducts heat over 1000% faster than glass so heatup time should be considered when reduced heat transfer is at play.

I recently found the Dynavap gizmo at the start of the year.

Started off with a flame but what a pain in the arse that is, i picked up the YLLVAPE induction heater for it.

That being said the airizers and boundless devices have been retired. Love this Dynavap!

putting todays fleamarket find to use

Hagbard said:

putting todays fleamarket find to use

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Totally adorable. And 10/10 photography. What’s the ovalesque black box inside?

absolutk said:

Totally adorable. And 10/10 photography. What’s the ovalesque black box inside?

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thanks bud! thats a stash box. made out of titanium and holds about 2g grinded material

I haven't added any new Dynavap gear since last buying an Omni and a low-temp cap but today I finally pulled the trigger on a new Helix tip and also an Armored Cap to try out. I figure these two things are very different than what I already own (2021M, Omni, regular captive and low-temp caps).

I briefly had an M+ and M7 but gifted them away before exploring them enough. I'm still interested in the M7/M7XL and I wonder how effective the heat mass at the bottom is when heating with an IH (Wand) like I do. Do I try and target that area and/or heat the cap?

I've heard the perforated cap is a good match for the Helix but didn't get that yet either while I evaluate these two new pieces and the combinations I can try.

Armored Cap makes things easier in general, should be standard, lol. Seems to click with more authority and forgives poor heating technique. Haven't tried it with difficult-to-me Halo tip yet, but it's a big help.

CR

TigoleBitties said:

I've heard the perforated cap is a good match for the Helix but didn't get that yet either while I evaluate these two new pieces and the combinations I can try.

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I run these on the Woodwynd. Generally a torch works better for me with this combination. Very flavorful. Good hits.

Cmdr. Redeye said:

Armored Cap makes things easier in general, should be standard, lol. Seems to click with more authority and forgives poor heating technique. Haven't tried it with difficult-to-me Halo tip yet, but it's a big help.

CR

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That's my flavor rig now, Shomni with Halo with Armored Cap.


With a captive cap, I heat the middle of the cap only and I get pretty consistent results.

TigoleBitties said:

I briefly had an M+ and M7 but gifted them away before exploring them enough. I'm still interested in the M7/M7XL and I wonder how effective the heat mass at the bottom is when heating with an IH (Wand) like I do. Do I try and target that area and/or heat the cap?

Click to expand...

I use the M7/M7XL—mainly the M7XL—heated exclusively with the Wand. Using the black Wand insert, I’m heating the cap, and it works consistently great every time. I‘ve found no need to heat the bottom.

Also, I picked up a Halo tip, and this works great with the M7XL. I’d say, paired this way, it’s generally kind of an upgrade to the M7XL. The only thing about this tip from my experience, is that it sometimes doesn’t heat up with the Wand and black insert. When this happens, the Wand light keeps blinking, there is no click, and no heating occurs. If I use the Wand open without the black insert, the Halo tip heats up consistently every time. My guess is the Wand, at least when using the black insert, doesn’t always interact well with the the Ti material of the Halo tip. I don’t know the science behind this. It’s just my speculation based on experience.

Finally, for a good look at how the Halo tip offers an alternative type of upgrade to the M7XL, Lee at Table Top Bong, explains it well.


Stock or with the option of adding a Halo tip, the M7XL (used with the Wand) is a very nice and effective device! Thanks TigoleBitties for initially recommending the M7/XL to me a ways back!!