Firewood Vaporizer

hey
I've made a pouch for the Fatx. It makes it easy to store and transport it while protecting the mouthpiece from dirt.

Does anyone else here have problems recognizing the batteries in the Fatx? I don't think I had this problem and it appeared, and this with the batteries I usually use. I seem to have read something about batteries and recharging.

My FATx has been seeing a lot of heavy use recently. I feel like there's more draw restriction now - is that simply a clogged screen, or do I need to disassemble and clean any other parts internally?

Also, I've been working with JoDa on a new cooling stem and WPA for the FATx - I should have both on my store sometime this month. This longer cooling stem is amazing, so smooth!

Delta3DStudios said:

My FATx has been seeing a lot of heavy use recently. I feel like there's more draw restriction now - is that simply a clogged screen, or do I need to disassemble and clean any other parts internally?

Click to expand...

Well have you ever cleaned or replaced the steel mesh screen in the chamber? Typically pretty easy to see when those are dirty...

Shit Snacks said:

Well have you ever cleaned or replaced the steel mesh screen in the chamber? Typically pretty easy to see when those are dirty...

Click to expand...

I've been lazy lol - I've been doing high temp dry hits to clean the screen as opposed to replacing it yet. But yeah I should start with that.

However I notice the ceramic part itself where the stem connects seems pretty 'sticky' already - so I bet there's some honey buildup on that part as well. Do you ever need to remove/clean the ceramic chamber, or just replace the screen as needed?

Delta3DStudios said:

However I notice the ceramic part itself where the stem connects seems pretty 'sticky' already - so I bet there's some honey buildup on that part as well. Do you ever need to remove/clean the ceramic chamber, or just replace the screen as needed?

Click to expand...

Yeah I think it's different with the X, but that is a choke point so it would need to be cleaned eventually, could get clogged with reclaim there for sure with heavy use

So, despite my doubts about a device that you can't turn off, i bought one. Quite impressed so far.

Very small and light, very functional, clearly very well-made. Will probably take this, and not my TM2, when i go out and about. The herb compartment seems like a semi-useful idea; maybe it will grow on me.

The operating system seems over-complicated. I doubt i will ever use two of the temperature levels- one would be fine with me.

Why it needs to buzz to indicate that the button is no longer being held down is lost on me- this buzz also seems louder than the others, but perhaps this is because i have usually put the thing down on a hard surface by the time it occurs?

It definitely should have an "off" function. The button is ever-so-slightly recessed, which may help prevent battery drain while in your pockets.

Now i just need a Toad, and i will have completed the VAS trifecta for 18650 vapes with no plastic parts.

On 420 I ended up with a Tafee Bowle2 and a FATx. This is in addition to the mighty +, TM2 and other vapes. So far the FATx is winning the reach test all the time except when it needs charged.

One temp setting for you, others , myself included like the three settings. Choice is good.

There isn't a buzz to say you are no longer holding down. That buzz is to indicate it has cooled, hence it occuring when you have already set it down rather than when you stop holding the button.

It has an off function. Don't press the button and it won't heat up . Same kinda thing as your TM2..

Wozz said:

It has an off function. Don't press the button and it won't heat up . Same kinda thing as your TM2..

Click to expand...

Well, no.

Actually, if i push the button on the TM2 three times, it shuts off, and does not respond to pressing and holding the button, until i turn it back on by pressing the button three times. There is no parallel function on the Firewood. Failing to turn the thing on is not the same as turning it off.

You are correct that the shut-off buzz comes seconds later when bowl temp drops, and not immediately when you release the button. It still has no purpose that i can see.

buford said:

So, despite my doubts about a device that you can't turn off, i bought one. Quite impressed so far.

Very small and light, very functional, clearly very well-made. Will probably take this, and not my TM2, when i go out and about. The herb compartment seems like a semi-useful idea; maybe it will grow on me.

The operating system seems over-complicated. I doubt i will ever use two of the temperature levels- one would be fine with me.

Why it needs to buzz to indicate that the button is no longer being held down is lost on me- this buzz also seems louder than the others, but perhaps this is because i have usually put the thing down on a hard surface by the time it occurs?

It definitely should have an "off" function. The button is ever-so-slightly recessed, which may help prevent battery drain while in your pockets.

Now i just need a Toad, and i will have completed the VAS trifecta for 18650 vapes with no plastic parts.

Click to expand...

The more you use the OS with the one button configuration, the more intuitive it becomes, ability to change the temp anywhere on the fly, sure one setting could do it all though, temp stepping is hard to beat as I use it with most vapes especially this and TM in particular...

Yes the buzz when you let go of the button is telling you it is cooled off, because you are supposed to keep inhaling, until that final buzz, fully clear the vapor and the heat with each hit ideally imo...

Maybe you should try getting that case from Delta 3D?? Protects the button from most any accidental pressing so it seems

I’ve just been tossing mine into a fanny pack thing with some cleaning stuff and spare batteries. As far as I know, I haven’t had any issues. I fill it before I leave home in the morning, and it’s ready to go when I get off.

So how does air get into this thing?

I've tried covering every apparent opening successively, but i can still draw through it. The only opening i haven't covered is the imperfect fit of the glass stem into the body. It wiggles, so air must be getting in.

Draw is quite open, so the airflow is good. But where is it coming from?

buford said:

So how does air get into this thing?

I've tried covering every apparent opening successively, but i can still draw through it. The only opening i haven't covered is the imperfect fit of the glass stem into the body. It wiggles, so air must be getting in.

Draw is quite open, so the airflow is good. But where is it coming from?

Click to expand...

Air enters via the on/off switch.

buford said:

So how does air get into this thing?

I've tried covering every apparent opening successively, but i can still draw through it. The only opening i haven't covered is the imperfect fit of the glass stem into the body. It wiggles, so air must be getting in.

Draw is quite open, so the airflow is good. But where is it coming from?

Click to expand...

Air enters the FATX case through all the cracks and leaks in the case, the button hole, and the mouthpiece hole.

Then it enters the FATX heating chamber, passing between the ceramic oven and the ceramic lid (with a heating wire between them), heating up between these two ceramic parts. Next, it enters the heating chamber from the side openings that are visible in the heating chamber.

And yes, the air entering the heating chamber can pass through the electronic circuit board. I don't want to start a discussion on this, but I'm just stating a fact.

I have already disassembled one of my FATX to study how safe it is in the matter of air contact with electronics and studied its internal structure.

I think most of the air is sucked into the heating chamber from the mouthpiece hole, because the inlet cavity between the two ceramic parts of the heating chamber is at the level of the mouthpiece hole (the air path is indicated by a red arrow). This is why the O-ring that some people put on the mouthpiece may be a bad idea. This way you will block the air flow and it will start to be sucked into the heating chamber through other leaks, and there may be more contact with the microcircuit.


The air practically does not pass through the electronic board, but only glides over it. The microcircuit is covered with a wooden strip, although not completely (the blue arrow indicated the open area of the microcircuit). Therefore, there is even less contact with the microcircuit.

Of course, it is easier for air to be sucked into the FATX from the mouthpiece hole, this is the shortest route. At the same time, contact with the electronic board is minimal, if at all. However, if the elements of the microcircuit emit volatile substances, they can enter the heating chamber. This is absolutely without a doubt.

With the red arrow, I marked the air intake path to the FATX heating chamber.

In general, for myself personally, I calmed down about the safety of the incoming air. Volatile substances from walnut wood are more likely to enter the heated air than something from electronics.

In general, if you cover the open part of the microcircuit with a thin wooden plate (indicated by the blue arrow), then the remaining concerns will go away. By the way, this wooden lining may solve the problem of shaking the mouthpiece. But the question is, what kind of glue should I use to glue this wooden lining, because glue can also be unsafe?

Dont forget to clean under the screen!!!
Found the off switch

Used it twice today since I picked it up, and so far very impressed. Nice improvement over my FW7

Have a feeling this will get a lot of use. Also nice that my beaded step I have for my FW7 fit perfectly so was able to move that over (nice extra cooling with all the beads in the stem)

please delete