Vapman

The question that arises in my mind is: Why does the Click get so hot?

DonDormilón said:

Have you been successful, with your hash-sesh?

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Not yet but I'm sure to try it soon, thanks for the video and tips man

Jon345 said:

Not yet but I'm sure to try it soon, thanks for the video and tips man

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You‘re welcome!

-green- said:

The question that arises in my mind is: Why does the Click get so hot?

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How are you heating it up? It should not be that hot. Mine does not get like that when I use the Station ever....when I torch it gets warm...but, with the silicone wrap...I feel nothing at all.

Dr. G said:

How are you heating it up? It should not be that hot. Mine does not get like that when I use the Station ever....when I torch it gets warm...but, with the silicone wrap...I feel nothing at all.

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Could be a thing for the hashheads among us, since we need to push a little extra heat into the Vm
My Zebrano Vm gets quite hot, when i do hash.

DonDormilón said:

Could be a thing for the hashheads among us, since we need to push a little extra heat into the Vm
My Zebrano Vm gets quite hot, when i do hash.

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I understand now. But, doesn't everything and anything you use get hotter because you are doing that?

Dr. G said:

I understand now. But, doesn't everything and anything you use get hotter because you are doing that?

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Like a Kind of heat insulation? Valid point
I don’t think it does keep heat well. Actually it slowes down the cooling of the Vm.

I don’t mind the heat of my Vm much. It’s not to hot for me. But for sensitive hands, why not.

Anyways, i think if ones Vm is to hot to touch it, it deserves a rest.

I recently swapped the heating element on a Vapman of mine, and I feel like 1) the draw restriction is looser than it used to be and 2) the pan is taking way more heat to get to temperature (like significant more, it's taking even longer than a Click to reach temperature, I think my midsection got more charred than it used to be). Has anyone experienced anything like this before between heating elements?

*Edit after taking some time swapping between the new and old pans and testing them, I can definitely confirm that this new pan performs much worse than the old one. A little peeved that using it led to a significantly more charred midsection. The reason I swapped in the first place is because the previous owner of this Vapman significantly discolored the legs on the wok –- they are now greyish-blue rather than gold. Are there any safety concerns to be had with the legs being visibly tarnished? Wouldn't want to be exposed to copper oxide, but I also want a properly functioning Vapman.

borbjorbis said:

I recently swapped the heating element on a Vapman of mine, and I feel like 1) the draw restriction is looser than it used to be and 2) the pan is taking way more heat to get to temperature (like significant more, it's taking even longer than a Click to reach temperature, I think my midsection got more charred than it used to be). Has anyone experienced anything like this before between heating elements?

*Edit after taking some time swapping between the new and old pans and testing them, I can definitely confirm that this new pan performs much worse than the old one. A little peeved that using it led to a significantly more charred midsection. The reason I swapped in the first place is because the previous owner of this Vapman significantly discolored the legs on the wok –- they are now greyish-blue rather than gold. Are there any safety concerns to be had with the legs being visibly tarnished? Wouldn't want to be exposed to copper oxide, but I also want a properly functioning Vapman.

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Was it a Swiss made vapman or an Italian ? I think the Italian version is slightly heavier but not by much. It shouldn't affect performance. Does it retain heat for longer ?

Legs (nozzles) are made of brass so if they're tarnished, green-blue, that's copper sulfate you're seeing. Chances are they're only tarnished on the outside but hard to check the inside.

Radwin Bodnic said:

Was it a Swiss made vapman or an Italian ? I think the Italian version is slightly heavier but not by much. It shouldn't affect performance. Does it retain heat for longer ?

Legs (nozzles) are made of brass so if they're tarnished, green-blue, that's copper sulfate you're seeing. Chances are they're only tarnished on the outside but hard to check the inside.

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It's an Italian pure, so the original pan should be the same as the replacement pan, which I ordered from Inhale directly. I don't believe its retaining heat for longer. There is just a noticeably looser pull on it, and noticeably less visible vapor. I don't usually heat very aggressively, but on this new pan even when I heat more aggressively, like almost double the time, I'm still seeing less vapor when I do little cigar puffs. Maybe the reduced visible vapor is related to the looser draw?

Maybe worth noting, the new pan has like visible rings in the wok that expand outwards, while my other Vapman pans don't. Not sure if that's just something that goes away with time / just a normal variation you might see between pans.

borbjorbis said:

It's an Italian pure, so the original pan should be the same as the replacement pan, which I ordered from Inhale directly. I don't believe its retaining heat for longer. There is just a noticeably looser pull on it, and noticeably less visible vapor. I don't usually heat very aggressively, but on this new pan even when I heat more aggressively, like almost double the time, I'm still seeing less vapor when I do little cigar puffs. Maybe the reduced visible vapor is related to the looser draw?

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That's weird honestly... and hard to troubleshoot.
Midsection airflow is unchanged ?
Same torch and same torch setting ?
Same flower material ?
The material don't burn with twice the heating time ?

The nozzles should be the exact same diameter...
Is the connection between the bowl and midsection tight and gap free ?

Radwin Bodnic said:

That's weird honestly... and hard to troubleshoot.
Midsection airflow is unchanged ?
Same torch and same torch setting ?
Same flower material ?
The material don't burn with twice the heating time ?

The nozzles should be the exact same diameter...
Is the connection between the bowl and midsection tight and gap free ?

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Same material, same torch, same heat for 3 seconds, rest for 3 seconds technique. Have tried with both an OG midsection w/ AFC mp and 2.0 midsection -- for both, no matter what airflow setting, the draw is slightly looser with the new pan. Not only does the material not burn, but it seems to stay green for much longer, even when I'm torching way longer than what I'm usually comfortable with.

At the same time, however, both midsections have gotten a more charred with the more aggressive heating, and I could definitely taste the Olivewood when testing with the 2.0 midsection, which I hadn't been able to do for a while. So it's possible the wood is heating up more but the material inside isn't?

The connection between the bowl and the midsection seems tight – but, I also did a test with both bowls unmounted from the heartpiece, pushing the mouthpiece into the bowl with my hands, and in those condition, the new pan also has a looser draw. So there may be a slight change in the shape that's affecting function -- but the effect is really so dramatic.

I'm out of idea. I don't know what's happening to your vapman...

The more agressive heating could explain the charring and wood taste but not the uncooked material...
I don't think a looser draw is responsible for that because in the vapman the material is cooked wether or not you draw on it.

Radwin Bodnic said:

I'm out of idea. I don't know what's happening to your vapman...

The more agressive heating could explain the charring and wood taste but not the uncooked material...
I don't think a looser draw is responsible for that because in the vapman the material is cooked wether or not you draw on it.

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Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it. Yeah I'm just as stumped, and I'm not too keen on ordering another one if this might just happen again.

Could it be that the tubes of the old bowl are simply wider because they are clean inside?

Magic erasers have often been recommended for cleaning, and they work well, but it dont forget to remove the remains of the sponge from the tubes afterwards.

Anyone willing to pass on Rene’s email by any chance (or suggest another method for communicating)?

Only4vape said:

Anyone willing to pass on Rene’s email by any chance (or suggest another method for communicating)?

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If you use the search function, "Rene Email" you'll be delighted with what you find